Kinkstaah

Sorry for some reason I thought you had a T4 Twinscroll manifold, not T3! I wouldn't put adapters on adapters. Just another gasket to fail or thing to sit in the wrong spot or other annoying complication.

Awwww, the 7670 was the best turbo I ever had! But it (and the 660) is probably 'too big'. It also does come in twinscroll and T4, waaaah, return the Garrett! Realistically either is going to be great, presumably you can find a suitable housing for the rear. I had a T4 1.05 rear with the EFR (it's the only option, too) and it was great response wise, but I also had a 2.8. Garrett's 1.05 might be alright? I mean they make it for a reason after all. Surely they don't expect the G30-660 to be suitable for like a 4L motor only and couldn't conceive of having a smaller housing for a smaller motor...

G25/30 Series. Nobody seems to run a BW EFR anymore, and not at a 320kw power level on 95 gas. I did back in the day on a RB28, I don't think anyone ever ran a 7163 on a RB25. That said, a G series is going to be much easier to fit being physically smaller which is more helpful than you might think. The turbo is the only thing that really adds power to the car. It is the most important of all selections. Do not skimp on it. If it's a budget issue, save longer. The difference between a G series and these other options will be like 5% when all is said and done. What's an extra $1000 now when you look at it through the lens of all the $ already spent to support..... the turbo to do its job well. I see it in LS worlds too, where they spend $50,000 on the motor to run 2x $300 ebay china turbos on the f**kin thing. With engine consumables, well - they all are. Just less with less power. It's either already rebuilt... .....or it's a 25 year old engine you are wanting to boost to (at least) 200% of stock power. It would be very wise to consider what the plan is, and be ready for it, when something does go south. Don't be that guy with a just completed-now-broken-car because you didn't budget for things to go wrong, which is how a low of projects end up sadly.

Honestly: Buy a name brand turbo. Garrett or Borg Warner. Anything else you will be chasing "but why doesn't mine end up like the dyno graphs the sellers post?" Buying a brand name turbo gets your result right where other people with the same turbo experience. Also, 600whp in any country - expect your engine to become a consumable. If you're okay with that and can plan for that then all the power to you. Also consider your clutch will suck and your grip will be less than stellar. Aim at 450whp. You'll have a better car and more fun actually using it, and it'll probably be faster for every scenario with the one exception being drag launching it on drag radials at a drag strip where you might be a tenth faster. Sincerely, Wiser, cooler heads.

2.5 torque? 3.0 torque? Pft. Dude the van is right there. Consolidate your projects, put the LS into the R32 and have either a R32 with grunt, or a firebird that handles, however you want to refer to it. Either way you won't want to drive the Firebird or a RB powered Skyline ever again so this is the proper solution, and you cut down on projects. It makes sense even if you hate it.

My gut feeling was also blowby, it is absolutely crazy when you see how much engines actually breathe when they run a lot of boost or are heavily modified. If you can ever see a motor on a dyno it's pretty crazy, full on steam train action. I thought I was going crazy when filling a 500ml catch can in one 20 minute track session, or maybe two. It's been awhile. But then I saw how much _worse_ it is with harder running engines and I was pretty shocked. In any case I would definitely use more than 1L in 1000miles with that kind of load going through it :p It going nowhere.... is... unusual

No? The WTAC rules heavily favour certain JDM manufacturers. Plus, in the world of time attack, these are also the platforms that guys 20 years ago built and built experience from, now that they have hundreds and thousands of dollars of sponsorships and junk behind them and have a ton of R&D. From another continent we may see things like Lotus Elise/Exige/Porsche GTX and the Corvette platform smash things. The C6 at WTAC had a 160KG weight penalty. Have a look at Gridlife USA where they have a Ford GT absolutely massacring everything. If you look at Clubsprint (which is still a sponsored class) - but the most "bang for buck", not many Nissans there at all. In a field of 39, there was a 350Z in 17th and a R32 GTR in 22nd.

Welcome to modified Skyline ownership.

People just don't understand how good MX5's actually are and how fun they are to drive, park, manuever. You feel like you have got some fun cheat code, while everyone else is sitting in their luxobargeSUV like normies who missed the point of living. It really is that noticable. As long as you/your stuff fit, and you're comfortable (they are), a MX5 is the best car on earth to daily around.

Any reason you didn't, like... change it while at the Pie shop so you could compare them on the way back? (all the more reason to go for another drive I suppose)

It's just one of those bugbears that I bring over from Facebook. Lots of people think the dividing line between them is Sedan vs Coupe or Manual vs Auto for some/any feature but it's always NA vs Turbo (or GTV). I have no idea if GTV got the GTT rear end. I'm just gonna pretend I know and say "yes they did"

I believe (this is a great silviaz thread where we must all interpret) that he is asking how to put a GTR cluster into the car. But because the dials are reversed on the GTR (speedo and tacho are swapped positions) he's asking how to do it. The answer is you buy a R34 GTT Nismo dash, which also has 320kmh on it, and will plug straight in. The longer answer is it IS possible to configure a GTR cluster to work in a GTT, so if you somehow got one of those cheaper than the Nismo GTT cluster, you could configure it to work. Whether you have the time/skills to do it and whether it's worth the $ is another story. There's probably GTR to GTT cluster information out there. In threads like this one. I assume also what is being asked is he doesnt want to change the whole cluster. Just the KMH dial itself and put it back together in another cluster, then recalibrate the speedo needle so it doesnt show 320kmh when the car is doing 180, and is asking how to calibrate that. Which is doable with like a Dakota Digital speedo/signal interpreter box but jesus man just buy a cluster.

Nope, the R34 Non-turbos have literal S15 parts for their subframe, axles, diff, diff internals, and ABS system (including the ABS ECU and wiring/pinouts) The non turbo part is where the difference is.

I added one, it made the car hotter.... Mind you, that one looked great, did nothing so I sold it on. If you make actual good working ducts as above, it'll definitely work. This isn't that though, out of the box :p

That is what will seal with the bonnet closed. Follow it down while closing the bonnet to see where it ends up with the bonnet closed. The panels don't do anything other than spending money, which this one will do just fine. :p

Just walk away from the cooling panels. I've had one and it was a fancy carbon one from Japan (let alone a copy of one) and didn't actually line up with the GTT. Had cutouts and things. And probably more importantly, if you look closely at how your bonnet seals, there's a rubber strip on the underside of the bonnet that does the job you want this carbon panel to do.

I'm actually surprised he's considering running an aftermarket turbo, because the fact that it's not a stock turbo is deregister the car territory! I would think Germany is the prime market for Hypergear highflows and ported stock manifolds, Nistune, Highflowed OEM injectors, super improved, ducted SMIC's and the like. (or maybe it's not quite that bad)

Germany is _very_ strict. Think along the lines of Mandatory full EPA every year.

I speak from experience, because my driveway is DEFINITELY not flat, and all 4 corners of the car sit completely independently from one another. It's bad enough it makes me guess everything, fender flares being the most common example, every single tyre sits different in the guard. I've learned to just go OH WELL and pretend not to see it and assuming it's fine. That said, unless you see your car on the alignment machine to soothe your brain you may forever also suffer this pain lol

Just keep in mind (maybe too late now) that before you go crazy, most driveways aren't flat. This _can_ affect your dynamic camber and heights too. It is kinda funny but getting people to really align stuff right can be problematic for people with OCD. Consider a motorsport place if there's any around, and also consider you may have 'dynamically' altered your own camber after a visit to the track, which can happen too.

WHAT IF I TOLD YOU........ That said, for 'fun cruising' there nothing that beats a MX5. 2.5L N/A would be just peak. Nobody needs anything more, and nearly nothing is more fun. Reject what other people say and go with your heart, if nobody is watching... EVERYONE likes a MX5 with the roof down, if they fit in it. Commo great if you want to shuttle multiple people around in comfort and hear rumble. If you do not need this facility, then, well...

It appears that work has commenced and this work shop is doing work, and selling that work for money, like some kind of a work shop. Bare metal vents and fenders are no longer bare metal, which is great with that whole 'turning into rust rapidly' problem. The panels look to be fitted, though I don't know how permament this is. Given I drove by a few days ago and saw the whole side of the car sanded down (but no panels fitted) they are probably permamently affixed now: Rear bar and skirts look like they fit and line up as god intended, which is nice. Rear lip has been removed and filled in, and can see the templates they are using to mount the wing back there, instead of just drilling and eyeballing it which is nice lol. And I did buy the brake light for the S1 which lines up with the OEM hole, Nissan just uses some tunnel thing to get the light to the light inside the lip which isn't really a light, directly. I was smart enough to test this before I dropped the car off :p They have also installed (this is temporary tac welds for testing) the bracket I came up with, and made something for the other side, in the event that some idiot cut those brackets off to fit an intercooler at some point in the past. They also have moved my oil cooler back, so that it is no longer hanging off the headlight support. There was a bit of forcing the front bumper on there in the past. I mentioned it to them because I can see paint people finally finishing up a front bar then wincing if they have to force the damn thing on in a weird way. Now there's plenty of clearance for OEM levels of fitment and gaps which is just nice. I do wonder how low that will actually sit with a bumper on and such, but it wouldn't be a massive task to move it up a little, or a different angle in the future given there is literally nothing in this space for now. Until I get talked into getting a dry sump tank made and fitted in that entire space, after going to WTAC...

Oh btw, if you are looking to sell this car, I know someone who is looking to buy it. (after missing out on the QLD one with all this already done to it, like you did :p) He's still trying to track that car down though.

You can always use the Red's for street use, to get them consumed. Mate of mine loves Red Stuffs, claims he has no fade, but has only done a few track days in his BMW. Oh, his BMW is a 1000kg E21 with about 200kw. :p For Skylines, I've always thought that the MINIMUM for track adventuring was orange, or significantly higher. But I am a noob and brake way too hard and have melted nearly every pad in like 1-2 laps. You may need a more abrasive track pad to wear down brake pad deposits, so if you do get track pads, run them on the street for a little bit of time to clean up your rotors, then put your road pads on and bed them in. Sounds silly, but does work.

I'd just guess at the usual suspects really. There's not that much to a braking system movement wise and everything has to be right or you get shudder or what feels like warping. In my case we were talking the wheel moving 100mm in every direction 5 times a second (it was ROUGH), like driving over train tracks continuously or something. I used to get gnarly shudder when pads got warm, and it turns out the actual pad was the wrong (yet also compatible?) size. This probably isn't your issue, and another issue should feel something through the pedal, - fade if the pads are way too hot, or a spongy pedal if your fluid has got way too hot etc. Also because BMW it could be weird BMW abs shit