Kinkstaah

I've only driven the one, if you've driven both and there's a more modern design then I concede to the above and get this. As for beautiful, there is no real discussion here or in any GTR forum where someone has not upgraded their clutch at the point they need a new one, for any reason. Twin plates do not need much force to operate at all, they just have a narrower bite point than a single plate, generally speaking.

Buy a nismo twinplate. It'll hold up to everything you want to do, and if it ever isn't enough, you'll have bigger costs and problems by that point.

As if anyone would aggressively drive something like a M5 on the track. Even price inflated Skylines are nothing compared to the costs of running/maintaining/replacing something on those lol. I just built my own E39 M5 for the budget conscious gentleman!

So I'll be that guy - what was the offer? Given what you're replacing it with it gives a rough indication of course, but I'm sure many enquiring minds want to know what offers exist about now.

It'd need a lot of work. They just... aren't performance engines, not really. I didn't mean a S54, I meant the M52 variants out there generally put out better results. I'm sure you're painfully aware of E36's with 2.8/3L Hybrid motors making a solid 160-170kw (230whp) in a chassis that is ~1100kg/2400lb in track day specialty trim. But if you've got the creativity/means/desire to swap an engine I would rebuild the RB20DET to be completely honest, it's a much better option than RB25DE, hands down, absolutely no contest in any scenario. If Engine swaps come into it, the RB25DE of any variant is realistically like the 12th best option. A VQ as mentioned earlier would be great! But you know what is generally better than that, and fits much better? Lord knows how effective they are on fuel given you said earlier that you're doing 2h races on one tank. This effectively limits power a lot. I wouldn't have thought a RB20DET would even come close to that kind of thriftiness on the track.

I'm that guy. My tip would be not to use that engine, the main reason being you'd be happy to get 170whp out of it. Is that really enough for what you want to do? The BMW 3L motors or the 2.5 or the 2.8 would likely perform better and be more available. That said, there's a lot better motors than that in abundance over there in the USA. _especially_ if you don't need to make it road legal ever. Signed, A LS owner.

My gut feeling was "about 15 psi" before I opened the thread. You gotta keep in mind you're not talking between 1000hp monster or a 400hp lazy engine, a better term is a 1000hp melted engine, or a 400hp reliable motor. Turning up boost is burning the candle faster, always. There is no 'safe' amount because what you're really asking is personal, how bright do you want the candle to be, vs how long it will last. Only you really know that. This is a really big/serious setup but tbh I'm not sure it really matters much with regards to how many kms of aggression the motor will actually last.

I also have them! Though mine have since been re-valved to suit the molestations I've done on the car since. Driven a few other R34's, can't say any rode or handled better.

My cursory information when googling seemed that a lot of places make their swaybars in NSW, and could easily engage someone like Signature Swaybars to actually make them. No matter who it is, I got a very competitive quote ($350) through Hakon to make me one with 50mm clearance at the front, lead time 4-6 weeks, from this mysterious NSW business. They have a custom swaybar builder form, but you can't get to it from their website - Only through google. And I can sell my Whiteline on. Again. If it all fits up, I reckon thats about as good a deal as I'm possibly ever going to get, so I signed on the dotted line!

They're on the list! I contacted someone local who offered this service, and their builder had a "Can you supply a template" to which I said yeah, I can give you the bar and mark it out for you, or bring the car! But they get theirs done by someone in NSW, and unsure as to whether they are operating. May have to call a few people, and unfortunately tyre kick all of them, except the people that convince me the best that they can do it.

New brackets were made. They even looked better! 6mm! Wow! Mount them up, all is actually fitting, looking good Then we put the car on the actual ground before taking it out for a test, and realised that no-one, not me, not my friend doing the engine conversion task, not the two VASS Engineers that have looked at it, nor any other mechanic looked at the swaybar with the car actually on the ground. Because it fouls. Just sitting there it's pressedfirmly up against the sump. No amount of spacing was ever going to save this. I wish I hadve looked at it on the ground before MANY hours were spent trying to make it work. Or looked at the OEM swaybar which would be in the same scenario. I have googled some custom swaybar people, and removed the swaybar from the car. Anyone know anyone that will get back to me in a semi-prompt fashion? As previously mentioned, car actually drives around quite nicely with no front sway at all, though I'm sure it's far from optimal.

What fenders are you running? Stock GTT? GTR..? Some widened out Widebody fender up front?

If the CD009 had a 7th gear it'd be perfect. Still perfect for track use, kinda if you want to max out top gear on the track. That said with that kind of power to do that you're effectively got no use for 1st. What you want is the shorter middle gears with an acceptably long first. BRB I am going to hug my T56 Magnum some more.

The pressure should drop. Maybe not instantly, but it should. It doesn't just hold the pressure indefinitely when the engine is off and the fuel is not pumping. If it did, there would be no need to prime the fuel system... ever. If the pressure is dropping or being too high (or really, fluctuating) while the engine is running then there's an issue with the FPR. If you have two sets of stock injectors, and two stock FPR's and two fuel rails, I wouldn't be chasing the fuel side of the engine bay at this point for your problem. Personally I'd be re-checking that MAF (is it the same auto/manual/is it clean? did you actively clean it with MAF cleaner?) Alternatively, anything else custom in that circuit? You have spark, but do you know you have spark at the right time?. You've set timing to 15deg, but have you checked it with a timing light? Could it be out? Whats your CAS doing?

Also worth noting - The videos don't seem to work (at least when I clicked on them) Troubleshooting methodology is better than most Mr GTSBoy 😛 Generally though - Why swap a rail? How could a rail fail other than it leaking? And if it leaks with 50PSI you will absolutely note it is time to replace the rail. Fuel pressure doesn't stay indefinitely. It also doesn't drop away straight away. I doubt we have a tunable ECU in there to see what is going on, in which case you'd better make sure you're running stock injectors, stock rail, stock FPR and basically stock everything if you're going to use the stock ECU's error codes to diagnose stuff.

I think it can certainly be done, and upon reading the manuals you can see how it could very conceivably work as above. The workshop manuals are very direct and easy to interpret, surprisingly so! I think it becomes hard because people do not read the manuals, do not have the gusto to compare the wiring diagrams and think "Well what if I...." and assume it will plug and play, which it won't. It may however, be a wire-in job. It probably is, the only thing that throws me (personally) is wondering why Nissan went to the extra work of making two seperate systems in the GTT and GT. There could be some reason, but it may have absolutely no effect.

Keep in mind noone has ever documented actually doing it. But if you have the NA ECU/TCU diagrams and the GTT ecu pinouts you can see that the GTT has extra pins that correspond to the exact pinouts of the NA TCU. I am ASSUMING you can join/bridge these up. ASSUMING. At the time I noticed this, I already had an aftermarket engine ECU, and an aftermarket Transmission ECU. I noticed this when I was re-wiring in the aftermarket transmission ECU as I swapped from a GT chassis to a GTT chassis. I too, wish I knew this information before I bought a haltech, and a $2000 aftermarket auto transmission controller. If it doesn't work, go manual, the NA box won't live long behind a turbo motor anyway. Even if built. I know that one too, from experience.

If you have an auto (which most people do when asking this question it seems) you cannot use the GTT ECU to control it plug and play. You also cannot just leave it as is, and let the TCU control itself. The TCU by default wants to talk to the GT ECU. If you want to use a GTT ECU *only* you have to wire the TCU into the GTT ECU. If you want to use a standalone ECU for the engine, you either piggyback that off the GT ECU (gl with that) or have a complete aftermarket TCU to control the gearbox. Go manual.

I finally figured out what was going on with my TC, after ... years. And all it took was looking back at a different logfile which looked like this: This is a run where two wheels were messing up. One (the green one) had never had issues before. And strangely enough, later in the run where the green one was having issues, the red one was behaving itself, and going higher in speed than it previously had ever done without an issue. How could this be occurring, while I'm driving, on a sensor I've never had issues with, that I've definitely not touched, and how could the red one give me different readings, something it's never done before. Then it twigged. This is the R34 ABS ecu, where the wires for speed sensors get spliced into. My abomination of test wiring over the years meant I could never really clamp the "handle" down in the way I've attempted to illustrate. ..... I went back and messed with the wiring to enable the ECU to actually make a proper connection. The 0.5mm copper washer I installed also worked. The problematic wheel kicks in at 13kmh (which is ideal, given the TC starts working at 14kmh by default, because 5/10% of 14kmh is well within margain of sensor error and you don't want cuts then. Also none of the wheels have problems now. Because they're all plugged in properly, or.. more.. properlier than before. Also funny enough, new GPS cable actually works great with the head unit. All I pretty much have to do now is put my boot back together, mount the GPS sensor properly as opposed to taping it to the dash, and.. everything is fine...except the swaybar thing. And a battery. And a dipstick bracket. But those are apparently being delivered to me soon. soooon.

A Nistune is kind of a stand alone ECU. You'd want some kind of tunable ECU, it doesnt have to be the bees knees, but you'd need to tune it to do it properly, because a NA+T is _not_ a stock car/tune, and even stock GTT cars get tuned anyway. Just keep in mind the GTT auto ecu will NOT run a NA auto without wiring the standalone auto ecu that is in the NA cars, directly into the GTT ECU. Which may only work in theory, but the same pins exist in the GTT ECU that are seperated (for some reason? Maybe a good one!) to the GT standalone TCU.

Short answer: Daily driving? No. Longer answer: It could theoretically be done, but you'd have to get absolutely everything spot on perfect, and anyone who can pull that off has enough self doubt to want to verify the setup works correctly... by tuning it. A Nistune is what you want. If you cannot afford a Nistune + Tuning time, or a plug in ECU for the Donor ECU you are using (Haltech, Link or similar) then this project is out of reach. Yes, its a large expense for a DE+T that might make 200kw. This is also still the cheapest option.

I could do that, but the lowest impact on the bar is 10mm from the top (i.e almost directly in the center) Yes, would gain some space via the 'radius' of the bar getting more clearance as its further away, but I'm not so sure on how well that math works with 5mm... Machining them down is an option though, as well as grooving them to allow for the whiteline bush shape. Every mm counts in this scenario! I also did reach out for a company that does custom swaybars also 😛

This will sadly have to be revisited. Mate came to the rescue with some 12mm plates, lovingly crafted to fit the underside of the car after taking the bushes away while giving a quote for some home renovations (actually did though, Mr Andrews) Unfortunately the Whiteline bush has a little /\ in it, causing issues, needs to have a groove cut in the new saddle. Unfortunately even if it did, the studs off the body just aren't long enough and need to be (somehow?) extended, as they only seem to come down... the exact length of the saddle, which is about 12mm thick. Funnily, the car drives really great without a front sway bar at all. I was quite alarmed at this because you'd think it would be a complete wallowy mess, but it drives well, to the point where you'd not get into it and think "Man this needs more swaybar at the front". Someone putting it up on a hoist to discover no sway bar at all would be very very suprised. I've also learned some places do custom swaybars. Thats also another option if providing the whiteline one as a template. I don't believe it's a great idea for a fabricator to modify a swaybar to change the bar itself. Yay/Nay? In other news, using a sump plug with copper crush washer seems to have sorted my power steering leak from a sensor I don't need and have never used, and could not use, but made provisions for.. for no reason. I am missing a dipstick bracket which has gone wandering since I got the car back, still need a battery as this optima one has shattered terminals, need to install a plug so my rear muffler can actually be disconnected without ripping out wiring, and I have a new GPS cable for the headunit, one without CAT6 cable spliced into it. On that note: Anyone here a magician with Magnetic Reluctors? Info on the ground is tiny on this, and my traction control seems to still do impossible things with the Rear Left sensor only. However, I have replaced the diff (so have different tone rings) Replaced the sensors themselves (twice, and once again with the new diff) Checked all the wiring, at least until where it comes into the boot. The troublesome wire from the traction control unit has been wired to the (working) rear right sensor and it behaves as expected. Unfortunately with a Helical rear diff, I need independent rear speed sensors. Not so much an issue when they physically move the same speed, but that is not the case anymore. Here's a graph I drew. imagine it in terms of Road Speed over Time. At a certain speed the sensor goes haywire. I have temporarily used a washer to space it out. This makes it work from 40-130?ish KMH instead of working from 0-70kmh without the spacer. Ideally I'd be happy with it working from 20kmh to .. 130? kmh, so I'll try a thinner spacer as a dodgo method.

I'm not sure what impact it'd have on the end links. Luckily they are threaded and can extend down a fair amount to keep the mounting bolts/studs at right angles.. so that should hopefully have the room there to mount the bar lower (or the engine higher). One of these is significantly easier while under there looking at PS lines/sensors.. and well, I'd be a little happier to use my FSB as the lowest point of the engine bay rather than the sump in any case. There is hope for some semblance of handling, yet!

This is an excellent plan.