Kinkstaah

I checked the other bar.. and yes there's a tiny but not insignifigant mark on it. It appears the marks on the sump were indeed caused by the OEM Swaybar. There was about 20mm of clearance between the bar and the sump. So I guess the answer is... no front sway bar. Unless there's any other option!

FML.

(the whiteline kit comes with those bushes) It also came with heavy duty links for the front, replacing the heavy duty links I already had. I thought about moving these pre-used heavy duty links to the back, to replace the new 'pin' style ones but thought .. no.. I CBF and I'm sure it's fine...

So what happened from that point was.. actually.. pretty straight forward. The road brakes went in really easily except for ONE GOD DAMNED WIRE AT THE REAR THAT TOOK ABOUT 45 MINUTES TO GET OUT but all in all pretty good, for me. I did the rear sway bar first because, it'd fit. I knew it'd fit, and it was also generally less painful. Suprisingly, reading the manual as to how the links work, a little bit of fiddling it all went in pretty perfectly. Suspiciously I moved to the front. I swore a lot attempting to remove the front sway bar, and in the end resigned myself to having to remove the castor arms to get to them, which is probably what normal people have to do in any case. I also noticed one obvious thing, which made me wonder, was I on drugs for the last 14 years of owning this car? It's very apparent that: The Whiteline bar is .. 24mm? Instead of the OEM 22. It bolts to the same point on the car, using the same brackets, with the same bolt holes. Thus, it can only ever at any point, have 1mm less clearance to say a sump, than a stock swaybar. I also noticed that the 'tightness' of the bar does not, and can not affect where the sway bar sits relative to the sump due to the above line. I also noticed that there was plenty of clearance for all four of the adjustment tabs in regards to the rest of the steering/knuckle/suspension components. Pictured: Me looking up at the mounting brackets from under the car, realising I sold and re-bought sway bars (at a loss) for absolutely no reason whatsoever. Also removing and re-adding them to the car for no reason whatsoever. And hacking them up in the past for no reason whatsoever. I put a bit of tape there for lols, but given I have about 22mm of clearance to the sump at the closest point, AND the fact that I have only affected my clearance by 1mm, I can't imagine it being any different than the OEM swaybar was. Note: That mark on the sump was there prior to anything I did to the car. It doesn't line up with the sway bar either, so I don't know what's going on there, and the OEM swaybar had no damage on it in that general region. Yes, I very much checked it. I then got to drive the thing, properly, with the interior in, and sway bars on (The sway bars are also excellent. They feel just like they used to..) to do some road tuning given I had changed some injector characteristics to combat overlap issues with cammed LS's. As a result, a positive one - Some of the very low load areas were very rich now, meaning fuel is going into the cylinder instead of out the exhaust valve. Excellent. The car also drives pretty damn smoothly now. Even more excellent. This could also be because the clutch actually is fully disengaging.. it now has a VERY high bite point and drives like a stock clutch which is a little disconcerting. And I drove it back to back with the Type R - It really does have a stock feeling clutch. As for the T56 Magnum, with the Mal Wood Shifter, this has got to be the best manual gearbox ever. 70mm of throws is ludicrous, and there is no (and I mean... no, 0.0%) play in this shifter. When it's in gear, it feels like you could jack the entire car up by the shifter sideways, this thing feels actually bolted in. The center spring is ridiculously strong, and the whole thing needs nearly no effort to shift at all. It is lighter than the Civic shifter, though you do have to be more precise, because as I said, 0.0% play. It is the most H of H patterned things I've ever seen. It does make some very mechanical clacking sounds when being operated though. To say it's worlds apart from a T56 is an understatement, but again.. my clutch is actually working now so take that with a pinch of salt. The Magnum Synchros are reportedly much better but before I basically didn't have any, though no fault of the T56 😛 Still, I have to do a lot of kms to run the gearbox in, and then drop the oil and put Transmax Z in it, after about ~1000-1500kms. Then suppsoedly it's 'much nicer'. So that'll be something to look forward to, but as it is, very very happy and I wouldn't be buying a 2nd hand T56 for $3k when you can buy a new magnum. Even in my case where I needed a new tailshaft because I have a different rear case on mine. It's possible to buy a Magnum F which will bolt right up, but for 'reasons' I didn't go that route. Next up: This You know, that sensor we decided to keep although 1) It leaks 2) We didn't know what it was for 3) I have not gone to plug it in 4) I have no means to plug it in as there was no suitable plug/wire when we were doing the conversion Why didn't we just make the line straight, and not include it? No no no, that would be too sensible, I must now drain and flush my power steering solution and cap a sensor with a plug that will hopefully be the same pitch/thread and seal with a suitable O ring. Yes, this is another S2 R34 Only sensor used in random 2003 onward maximas and random cars from f**king russia. This is the official part picture from the Nissan parts diagram. ....

I'd assume he's talking about the plastic guard liners. I would also like to know about this, or get custom ones made for ... reasons.

They'd definitely sell, for a price. That's for sure.

I continue to drive around that Type R with it's Quaife diff and POD and VTEC and wonder, is this peak car? Is this literally the most fun you can have in a car realistically? There's something about 8200+ rpm in 2nd gear just being under the state sanctioned speed limit to be really entertaining as far as a road car goes. But because I'm a fking idiot, my R34 is back after it's clutch adventure in January. I have spent 30 hours in the past three days as it's been back and likely to spend more tomorrow. I had a list of things to look into and parts I had accumulated since January.. After sending my dipstick into my engine bay and painting said engine bay with oil multiple times, I rrealised I put a one way valve in an area where a one way valve should not be. I also bought valve covers with extra slots and Elite Racing's oil catch cap and breather to the intake. I also bought the cowl seal which mostly went in okay. After replacing my valve covers and running new lines for this PCV system, I realised I couldn't use these valve covers that I had wrinkle painted black during my away-car-time, because a) They were in crap condition when I looked at them closely on the underside. Didn't much like the idea of flaking paint (no, I painted the correct side) in my rockers and springs which looked great b) My original valve covers were already painted black, I had forgotten c) My original valve covers had nice baffling in them, the replacement ones, well ONE of them did, and the other one didn't. d) The replacement ones I painted didn't actually fit. They fouled on things attempting to fit. So hooray, I changed valve covers twice for no reason. I was also greeted with an Airbag light, my horn not working, and my steering wheel buttons not working. This is mysterious issues to have after the car not being driven at all since it came off the road. I pulled off my newly fitted carbon cooling panel thing, checked the horn, all seeeemd okay. I checked my Varex with the handheld thing, and no, didn't seem to work. I removed my entire center console looking for the control box which is mounted near the airbag box, only to rememeber it's actually mounted in the boot. Then when I checked the actual muffler itself, the wires leading to it were actually broken from the plug, likely as a side effect from the "Heatshield the entire exhaust under the car" thing. Wired that back together, found that the dongle worked as expected. At this point I had an airbag light and a non working horn, and buttons. Without the correct tools I eventually got the steering wheel off, airbag off, and the clock spring off, to find it damaged. Luckily I had a spare, which I bought many years ago when an Autoelec told me that that was the problem with an airbag issue I had in 2014. (it wasn't the issue). Clockspring replaced, my steering wheel buttons working, and my horn working as I found out about 217 times while replacing the airbag... I still had an airbag light. I consulted the service manual. It was no help, as diagnostics didn't work, the car didn't enter diagnostic mode. I then went to the internet, attempting to find out if anyone had a similar problem, and found this: Only to find myself with the same issue from 2014, with no recollection of what the fix was. IF I FORGET AGAIN, OR ANYONE EVER SEARCHES FOR THIS THE NISSAN SKYLINE R34 SERIES II HAS A DIFFERENT AIRBAG RESET METHOD THAN OTHER SKYLINES, INCLUDING THE R34 SERIES I. INSTEAD OF USING THE DOOR SWITCH MULTIPLE TIMES ON KEY ON METHOD DOCUMENTED EVERYWHERE INCLUDING THE WORKSHOP MANUAL, THE R34 SERIES II SKYLINE GTT NISSAN USES THE LATER 2003-2010 NISSAN STYLE, WHERE YOU KEY ON, WAIT FOR THE LIGHT TO DISAPPEAR AND BEGIN ITS FIRST FLASH. BEFORE THE FIRST FLASH, TURN THE CAR IMMEDIATELY OFF, REPEAT THIS SEQUENCE 5 (FIVE) TIMES. ON THE SIXTH TIME START THE CAR. THE LIGHT WILL STAY ON FOR 7 SECONDS THEN CLEAR. THIS ONLY CLEARS THE AIRBAG ECU OF FAULTS. IF YOU HAVE A FAULT FROM HERE IT SHOULD BE ABLE TO BE DIAGNOSED USING THE METHOD DESCRIBED IN THE WORKSHOP MANUAL WITH REGARDS TO USER MODE AND DIAGNOSTIC MODE. f**k While the dash was entirely apart, I attacked the rats nest of wiring for my head unit, trying to determine why my GPS and DAB do not work very well (at all in regards to GPS). I had hilariously mounted them upside down (sticky side to windscreen) when they are clearly meant to go on the dash, and point up. In any case it was for naught, as I found that someone had cut my GPS wire, and spliced in a 1 meter length of... CAT6 networking cable. I also found that my cigarette lighter wiring was also freshly broken. Excellent. I then decided to drive the car, because it was on the light, my tyres had been at 20psi from the track day for the better part of a year, and the driveway was about to be full again. You know what's amazing, I found five different servos with out of action air services. Pretty excellent for a 5km radius. I also un-spliced my traction control wiring, as I had linked the rears. This really worked great with the 1.5 way, but not so much with the helical, at low speed especially. This was worth doing considering I had cleared out the boot entirely after actually finding the Varex control box. On the list now was to put my road brakes back in, and install the Whiteline Swaybars that I also previously owned in the past but sold because why only do something once in life? I am writing this at 10PM on day three, and I'm not done yet. So I'll update that with some actual impressions of how it all is, once it actually some what resembles a functioning car. TLDR: Greg received car back This happened:

I mean, you could set it to instantly kill the motor before the oil pressure drops to a point where damage could occur. But this is also potentially unrecoverable, if it drops at 7000rpm, the damage is done by the engine decelerates from 7000rpm to 0. It certainly wouldn't hurt in scenarios where you have *low* oil pressure in certain scenarios, vs say instant 0 oil pressure problems. In theory you could tie this into an Accusump system. I.e if it's been triggered for more than 1S kill the motor, and let the accusump carry you through until your engine decelerates from 7000 to 0... None of this applies to a PowerFC though 😛 PowerFC is as basic tunable ecu for fuel and spark. It's not that it's bad, RB's are simple engines electronically after all - its that it's not really good value for money. Noone should buy one. If you got a car that has one already, that has already been tuned for it, you may consider keeping it depending on your needs, but that's about it. Their niche has been more than adequately covered by Nistune. If that didn't exist you could make an argument for a PowerFC if you got one very cheap.

If you want to (or want someone else to) enjoy driving the car, 300kw is the magic sweet spot for approximately everything as one whole cohesive car ...system.

Consider the fact that the RPM gauge itself may be working just fine. It has to get it's signal from somewhere else. This is where the above post from GTSBoy starts to provide better context.

It would be incredibly weird if you were manually selecting 4 to 3, for example - And found out that the number changes but the actual gear doesn't. Probably the first time I think anyone has reported that one, ever.

Given you said racing... inside the cabin against the transmission tunnel where the passenger used to be seems common, So you can manually open/close them as you start/stop the motor which is the most reliable method. You can get a solenoid to do this, but it adds complexity and while it makes a lot of sense that it 'shouldn't fail.... the other option is a manual handle. Corvette guys like to mount them just inside one of the guards, vertically but they get _reports_ of leaking from there. Mine is mounted horizontally, but given it's a cylinder full of pressurized oil, I can't really see how that'd change much... My car no longer has a RB In it... and uh, it's mounted to the back of the front reinforcement bar. Not really an option with a front mount intercooler, but I don't have that either, so the routing to my oil cooler and where the oil cooler made a _LOT_ of sense for me.

I had similar with my 25row cooler, to the point where I was kinda concerned about the oil never getting hot enough... ever. It was perpetually under 100C _without_ the cooler and most of the RB life driving around was like 65C... Mine is now behind an indicator which is nice enough to remove/add for the track (in a R34). but yeah, it overcooling is something that happens on the road..

I have a 3QT. It depends on how MUCH oil pressure you are losing, and how much oil the accusump has in it. By this I don't mean only if its a 1/2/3QT. If you want the Accusump to deliver oil pressure quickly it means setting it up so more of the canister's internal area is taken up by air, not oil. They refer to this as the "pre charge PSI" but in reality it's taking up more space. All the people refer to it as extra sump CAPACITY and how it operates is pretty bang on in regards to that aspect. However.... You can never have too much protection from oil starvation. If you have ECU failsafes on oil pressure this helps even more, you can tie the accsump in with sensors to know when they kick in, etc, so you will never 'run out'.

Just to back GTSBoy up here, what OP is hearing is a placebo. Mufflers don't REALLY (they do a little, but honestly not much) change the sound of any exhaust, though they do change the volume. ALL RB's sound similar. Indistinguishable. You'd get more difference out of changing the cams, or manifold, which noone really does. (for purely sound reasons). It comes as a byproduct of turbo/performance which aren't the issue here. Sometimes there's not a lot of search results because it became kinda self apparent 18 years ago. The differences you're likely hearing between videos etc are far more likely to be mostly caused by the quality of the recording equipment and how that's been setup.

I said it in the other thread It will end in tears. and it it'll be the tears of the R34 owner lol.

I was under the impression it was smaller, more compact, cheaper than manual that I went with. That said a R34 is not a S chassis (but given RB boxes fit in S chassis, I'm making an assumption its roughly similar) Looking at the OG context of this thread, I don't know if a DCT would disqualify you from WTAC and whether they'd hold true to automatic, given the context of the automatics the car came with, i.e you must have a torque converter. But the DCT boxes do fit in a lot of things, seem to be picking up traction instead of manual boxes for SR, 2JZ, RB, LS etc as the gearboxes are starting to be real pricy and ... slower. But as dose said, you know what comes from the factory with this great DCT installed, coupled with a stout 3L TT engine? The donor BMW it came from lol.

The BMW DCT's have solid conversions nowadays (I almost put one into my car behind the LS but it wasnt quite mature yet). Is that not an option? Given how much power you're putting down I'd be looking in that scenario as the whole thing was $3000 cheaper than putting the magnum in my car lol.

It is fun for tuner types like myself (and clearly Josh) to get the car running as "optimally as possible". I've spent many fun hours making the car run a little leaner/smoother cruising along at 100kmh in 6th. None of this makes any sense, see you all in iRacing 😛

The fact that there is a sensor in the engine bay is alarming enough when it comes to widebands, but the 4.2 is more sensitive than the 4.9 in that aspect (apparently). My 4.2(s) has lasted a very long time mounted in the specific manner they request to be, which is on a certain angle, and at least (!) 1 meter away from the exhaust manifold. If it's in the dump pipe in the stock O2 location, in a dump, 20cm from a turbine housing, expect to be periodically replacing these.

This is not how the internet works these days Mr GTSBoy, sorry to say. The humans are the search results. The answer is no, not stock, definitely go manual, and the cheapest/easiest solution is to buy a new R34 manual box while you still can, from Nissan which is $3500. For all the other parts and processes you will need, there's many writeups that no one can just instantly provide.

I've had one for years (mounted near the cat, which is where they say to mount them, NOT the dump) Wideband AFR is only one measurement, presumably injector ms has not changed. I also had scenarios where as Ben is alluding to, one filter was blocked, and the previous one wasn't. I.e Ryco into 25micron filter into the 10 micron filter buckets on the injectors themselves. One or more of these may be clogged/acting up and if your filters aren't fine enough, it'll be your injectors. And if your filters are too fine, you'll be constantly changing them. Cars are fun. I noticed this pretty much any time I changed from 98 back to E85 I'd have this issue but it could easily be some clog in my system that gets stirred up from changing solvants and not a general problem affecting everyone

Consider your fuel filter. I had considerable issues with the R34 Ryco style fuel filter if I changed fuels, or let E85 sit around. It would clog to the point where making 300+kw would start to run lean. Something to check if your injectors come back OK. Well worth checking the injectors first though/as well, as you don't want to be running rich on 4 cylinders, and lean on 2 etc!

This, while disappointing isn't entirely inaccurate. There's only so accurate you can get when you have larger injectors and a certain 'step' you have to use to drive them. The minimum adjustment the powerFC can make results in it being too rich on one setting, and too lean on the other. Newer ECU's allow for finer 'steps' which means these can be dialled in more. That said, you'd think the tuner would at least be able to get it running with the whole '1 step too rich' being the norm. Especially after a 3 hour drive..

You have an X5 as a punishment car. Everything else should be on the table, you've done your time! Looks good, the front looks weird, back looks ace. It's the lastest in the line of "basic platform car" that the aftermarket can take hold of an make their own, i.e the next of the GR86/400Z/GR Yaris style of car. It'll be interesting to see how it holds up to the Mustang. People in AU do clearly tend to enjoy buying cars of that ilk given how many 86's, MX5's and Mustangs one sees around