Kinkstaah

7163 on a SR20 was absolutely awesome unit. I had a 7670 on a RB28 and it was also a really awesome unit. Twins can be suitable for some packaging reasons. In a RB it makes no sense as packaging wise, Nissan just... put... two turbos in the space of one, and two manifolds in the space of one, as one big twin scrolling exercise for group A reasons and also because it was 1989.

The real difference isn't "Single vs Twin" its the fact that for any kind of sensible power figure, Single turbo development has kept on going instead of the direct bolt on twins in the 90's. You could use two of these new, modern turbos, for approximately the same result as a single of the same total size of two modern ones combined, but as that is more expensive, and more complicated, and that generally turbos get more efficient as they get larger..... people don't choose to do this.

I get what you're saying now - It may be worth attempting to reverse engineer this What is required to take whatever you have and convert it to GTR, S15, or 350Z diffs? I would wager there's no way to truly know without replacing the whole thing, or at least being able to replace the entire thing and see where you end up. Sincerely, R34 GTT owner in similar/identical situation.

There isn't. The options for Nissans are 1) GTR 2) S15 3) 350Z Quaife make nothing that suits anything else.

The twins have SOME merit because you can say they were made specifically by Garrett as upgrades for this specific car (I don't mean factory upgrades, but turbos made specifically for the RB26). To use the car as an actual performance car for actual performance, a smaller Garrett G series as a single would be absolutely awesome, and be physically small and absolutely give you lovely clearance to everything and more than enough power without blowing things to smithereens. You wouldn't pick any other Garrett turbo in 2021 - They are their best product, though many other products of the past would still be considered a big upgrade to stock.

BC was made for this situation

Its the other way around, should buy a proper sim setup and sell the actual track car. Much more racing, Better competition, Much less cost, Massively more accessible. Infinitely more safe. Doing actual wheel to wheel is kinda nonsensical...

I dunno, they are love it or hate it, and I kinda dig it (as does the gf). I've only done very limited driving but I absolutely loved the dash/seating position!

I still await Startrack for my Balancer. In the meantime, my lovely girlfriend sold her Turbo MX5. Her criteria was "Something Japanese, Fun, but a hatchback" (cause she doesnt like 100kmh highways in a MX5, and tends to go to bunnings a lot) Basically my Megane, but Japanese. Because she is blessed, not cursed, this is now in the driveway, 1 day later. Bonus Extras (that she and seller didn't notice, but I did) Genuine P1 Buddy Clubs Genuine Mugen Wang Short shifter of some sort (shifts amazingly, def not stock - we test drove a few cars) Aftermarket Helical LSD (Quaife?) One of the other ones we tested had an Intake, for max VTEC sounds. So we're getting one of those. As for how it drives, I have now experienced 3 different cars in this household I should primarily drive around instead of my R34. I googled bolt on supercharger kits for the K20, which was the inspiration for my mate's supercharged BMW, and found that when I overlaid a video of someone doing a 50-250kmh pull, and my own video at Sandown in the LS Skyline... they were identical in acceleration. Every frame of the entire thing. It was eerie. My lovely gf is extremely happy, and I am too. They really do drive excellently, and the fit and finish and interior is just awesome. I am more excited to drive this thing around than my own car, which I hope to high heaven is just because it's new to me and a great deal/hilariously good buy. However this completes our household change from Turbo life to N/A Purity!

Turns out this is not happening, because when going onto the car.. this is a LS1 Corvette balancer, not the Commodore one I called about to confirm it was 100% the right fitment before ordering. Whoopsie. Left = Old LS1 25% UDP balancer Mid = 6.0 LS2 balancer Right = My now on the way back to the supplier Corvette LS1 balancer.

This is both news and makes sense to me. What I can't find is anyone saying anything about how the steering feels any different afterwards. I guess it would help with RPM based problems assuming the Astra pump is driven steadily and not RPM dependent. I.e in the future I will almost certainly try this cause...reasons.... (the reason will be something broke)

I haven't - But my power steering I have noticed is not actually the LS1 model that everyone complains is shit/overheats/leaks from every orofice. I dont know if I haven't had problems due to the fact it was previously underdriven 25%.... now that it is driven at normal rate it could be more of a problem, and it may be less heavy! I'll have to wait and see. They also sell a 150mm pulley, the stock/spare one I have is 137mm. I assume* the one on the car is also 137mm. OEM reservoirs have a filter in them and are pretty damn cheap to replace, if that starts leaking. Seems a better option than the alloy res everyone seems to upgrade to. My pump is actually the VZ/VE pump, and I'm not often at full lock at full RPM. However that looks like a potential little side project down the way, other than letting go of the purity of hydraulic power steering of course!

Oooh it's happening!

Ktec and Kamracing So many good things Good to hear it went well, the belt and bushes are like 90% of problems on them. You'll track it with decent tyres and go "Oh that went easily, why do I own a Skyline again?" I've still not recovered.

The thing is, they ARE noisy engines as f**k as soon as you raise the engine bay, however when you see modded/cammed cars they all sound like that, which seems pretty normal relative to a stock motor. If you have changed your headers and put a damn different intake on it (i.e with a blower on it) then it could quite easily explain the noise, if you've only settled down and thought "Wait, is this... right?" now that the honeymoon with MORE POWER has worn off. You likely didn't hear it before you started modding because, well, it wasn't there. Have a listen to what these things sound like at the FRONT of the car: Fking awful lol.

It also has to do with the advent of forums vs social media/IG etc. The communities foster different types of content, with current social media being along the lines of instant communication whereas a forum is more like email. In depth discussion/technical information is pointless via IG/FB groups, but things like build threads or very quick questions work really well there. People generally do gravitate to asking very quick things on very complicated concepts (lol) which explains why people are there. The amount of times I've written a massive reply to a very ill thought out quick question is kinda staggering. The sad thing is I'd have to do it many many many times on a platform like that, as opposed to this which is far more stable/searchable/centrally accessed. Generally the posts here follow the topic/question whereas in SM they follow the poster/person.

Thats the stuff I have, and got carbuilders to install! It uh, didn't do a great deal of anything, as I too have that sewing machine sound, which is common with cars with long tube stainless headers. Cars with headers are well known to have louder engine bays than exhausts. (and it sounds shit) Unless of course yours is even worse!

SO This has been off the road since January, due to delays with replacing various items. In short, I decided that instead of replacing only the clutch, I'd replace the gearbox as well (previous gearbox was fine) because I didn't want to be in this position again any time soon. Also the T56 Magnum is a massive step up over the regular T56 in every single way, especially for driving and shift quality which is actually a bit of a big deal for me... On that subject though, the post mortem on the clutch came back when the new box was going in, because the slave cyl didn't have nearly enough room to do it's job due to the starter motor relocation kit/spacer that was in the bellhousing. In short, my old clutch was never fully disengaging - Which is the likely culprit of the early failure. This was machined up to fix this problem, to give the moving bits enough room to move to do their moving bits job. It took awhile, but I did receive a T56 Magnum from Mal Wood, with his short shifter, and a rear case (from what I assume is actually a FG Falcon) because it has a Falcon FG short shifter on it. The idea behind this was to extend the rear case, so that I wouldn't have to use a dogleg shifter handle, and could use a handle that was straight up. I also opted for his Model 3 inter clutch, which will do more than enough to hold the power given it'll actually disengage. The only criticism I read of this was "It drives too much like a stock car, I want a heavier clutch so I feel like I am driving an actual modified powerful car" (again on Ford forums). So yeah hopefully this will suit! I also bought a metric ton of heat shielding, namely this stuff. Header Heat Shield - Lava Armor Exhaust Shield | Heatshield Products And this stuff, for the rest of the exhaust Heat Shield Material - Exhaust Heat Shield | Heatshield Products And here photo sof it on the headers and pipes and such. I really hate overheating, I was hoping new fans (from a later Mondeo) and absolutely lowering engine bay temperatures may help with giving the cooling system less to do. I also really want to limit heat getting into the car from the exhaust (can you tell?) I have since learned since ordering this stuff that a better bet would be to remove my 25% underdrive pulley that came with the motor, given it is only running the water pump at 75% capacity. Given my issues only occur when I am at idle, on 35+ days, with the aircon on, for extended periods... having 25% more water pump seems like a more sensible idea. Also noting that: ATI make a 25% underdriven dampener, but don't recommend anyone use it ATI make a stock size dampener, that actually provides dampening (my 25% UDP pulley has no such dampening) GM use ATI dampeners on their own crate performance engines instead of a GM OEM item. The gain in using a 25% underdriven balancer is about 5-10hp. So yeah, it seems like a much more sensible idea to get the dampener that actually provides dampening on a notoriously non-balanced motor, then underdrive the alternator and look into a better power steering pump for track use, which are all widely available. So that'll be next, once all the stuff in this post is up and driving again, pending a new driveshaft for the new gearbox, which literally was handed to the guy to make up on his last day before retirement. What could possibly go wrong with that?

I went berzerk with heat shielding, yet to see if it has helped. Can't hurt though, I guess. Kinda funny being worried about underhood temps when your IAT is at 80C. Fine for what you're doing it for, but.. jeez. It may be normal, but its certainly not 'good', it just puts numbers and context into things that you read on the internet as "PD blowers generate higher IAT than other options"

Put a real temp sensor in the line that runs from your trans cooler - That's what I did. 80C while your foot is down? That is ridiculous and has obliterated any desire to ever get on boost. 50C is already massively heat soaked. 80C after a few seconds makes me wonder if your intercooler even exists. Dang.

Trans temp and cooler are actually pretty important. I remember my hi-stall adventures, its well worth knowing so you can freak out as it climbs in traffic like I did before I installed a fan for it!

I have a head unit and can thus run any ODB2 app I want. I have the entire torque pro app running in the double din with all the gauges I need. Note: Don't need any, as I have enough mechanical gauges. But I can put extra stuff there!! And stupid shit like 0-100 runs, or my track day telemetry. Also Trackaddict is great. And allows overlay for all the circuit things, and does not interfere with god knows what. Go one step further and just tune your f**kin car and buy a MPVI2 lol. The tech has progressed past whatever that thing is now, and if you want to say have gauges for everything, that is what ODB2 and some kind of display/screen is FOR.

What information do you need that you don't currently have? ODBII can be done via a phone app in a far easier way, provided the LS ECU actually has transmission temperature sensors/readings that are transmissable that way. (I know IAT is) I also know your IAT reading will be inaccurate. I also know it will be messing with your tune/AFR as a result of it. Its cool like that, assuming you have the stock sensor now that you have boost

Don't you understand? Old Japanese, smoke ball sweat and 2 minute noodle juice is what gives the car heritage! Especially if it's CONFIRMED OEM JDM Japanese second hand smoke, ball sweat and 2 minute noodle juice. I wish I was joking.

I used a Dakota digital converter for my speedo in my LS conversion. Specifically, I fed the dash the output from the LS ECU, so it is not getting it from the gearbox anymore. I previously used a Jaycar signal converter and let me just say holy hell the Dakota one is well worth the money and is super nice and does work (in MY application). It can handle multiple connections but I didn't need it for the Tacho as this can be tuned in the ECU itself.