Kinkstaah

I'm still impressed at the speed How did you find someone to do work who actually.... does work?

Plenty. As far as Renault Timing belts are concerned, this is one where I'd call someone like Paul @ Auto Paris in order to do that, Or the guys at Alpine Affaire, but that'll cost more. They seem to be pretty religious about changing it on time, so someone who has done it 771 times or something would be my pick lol.

I think it's fair to say that you'll never wish you didn't get the Neo for this application.

1. Yes, it kinda is. In terms of differences, it has a different head, and a different block, as well as a different turbo and uh, different wiring and ECU, so I mean yeah it's a completely different engine (but also very similar.. paradoxically). 2. There's writeups about this, I would wager @GTSBoy will know. 3. No. In-fact you can re-use the Auto ECU/Loom for the motor in a manual car with no worries, and tune it with Nistune if you like.

Bust out the WD40! For me providing TLC to mine was a case of "Oh no, whats that [problem]" take cursory glance "Oh, that's pretty straightforward" The trickiest OEM cars are nothing when you modify a Nissan lol.

You'll know if you hear it, same problem on MK2 RS Megane as the MK3. If you hear a really noticable, loud rattle, that goes away if you put 1% of brake pressure on your pedal while driving along - Bust out the zipties to take the slack out of the pedal. You dont need to engage the pedal or anything like that, it's very obvious when you look at it. Side note: I found the Megane REALLY easy to work on. May be a little weird when you first look at it, but as soon as you do I found it really, really nicely and obviously laid out in pretty much every system.

Not to mention PI is a bit of a power track... But yes they can be tuned and have all sorts of mods available given they exist in a racing series for them. The MK3 had a few rattles, one of which is the brake pedal which makes all sorts of racket. It can be fixed with a ziptie. Proper JDM.

Thank f**k finally someone bought a MK3 megane Best car for the money bar none, road, track, everything in between. My 225 was lovely. The 250/265/275 have a ton of aftermarket support if you want to go that way too.

You would have had to do something special to bomb the test in a S13, given it has much laxer requirements than my R34 (which passed with a cammed V8) Do you have cams in your RB? It will really f*** with your idle. E85 can help or hurt, depending on what part of the test you came up short in. The testers have a report but I don't know if they supply it if you fail (I got my copy)

However, they are legal (as are the sedans) and the Evo X platform is going to run rings around any hot hatch, especially if you go modding. The sedans just look like a lancer instead of a WTF is that hatch going on. Yes yes, mods are also not really legal but there's plenty of uh, invisible mods that go on that evo motor.

I always think Lancer Ralliarts are the biggest unknown sleeper. Same drivetrain as the Evo X, with slightly slimmer bodykit. Same potential. Look pretty shit though. That said, also cheap. Unsure if P platers can drive them but if they can, then oh boy there's potential there too.

There's nothing a R34 does better than an 86. Nothing. A R34 N/A is not a performance car. It's closer to a Hyundai Tiburon if anything. A R34 Manual GTT in stock form (I.e out of the price range anyhow) is about the same performance in a straight line as an 86 anyway lol. Also there's plenty reasons why P platers love hot hatches too, as an alternative.

This is how I figure it made no difference, closing the varex for example richens up the AFR significantly (12.9 to 11.0) as revs climb for obvious reasons, and about half a point at idle actually. (14.7 to like 14.3ish). Swapping the cats (plural, I have two) with 2x 3in straight pipes resulted in an 0.0 AFR change at the same road with same conditions, I made a day of it specifically testing this exact thing. And the cats fit better. I wish I had flex joins in my exhaust, vbands are great but... there is 0 compliance with them.

It is interesting how the tests are run, my car was well worse on idle instead of driving around, given the WA test is an idle test mileage may vary. My stupid V8 cam was a huge detriment though. (unburned fuel is bad for emissions...) I would have gone ceramic if I had've seen them prior though, because its probably better than steel ones, otherwise why would every OEM use ceramics instead of steel ones. But now that I'm passed I'm happy they're steel, so who knows, worked out in the end. Either one will remove the smell though!

Mine did... for the same year/motor combination that OP has 😛 through the IM240 in NSW which is far and beyond more stringent than the 5 gas test WA does. The kicker for me was it was the only one I could find that was a 3in 400 cell cat, and its worth mentioning I have two of them, one in each bank, as I have a 2x 3in exhaust into a 3.5in. ... and they are also behind 100 cell cats, which are further up the bank! Just sayin they do work for the make/model that this thread is relevant for, but I probably would have paid the extra for the racecraft ones, but trying to get information on them other than "Cell" and "Euro" spec was impossible at the time.

I was able to buy some 5in body 400 cell cats (x2) which had 3in pipe either side. I can confirm they work and may be cheaper, I want to say they were just under $200 each. Venom Exhaust Weld in high Flow stainless 3" 76mm 400 cell Cat Catalytic Converter (mrcperformance.com.au) They do remove smell, because I have 'cat delete pipes' that can be swapped in with vbands. These delete pipes sit in a box, because.. they do not seem to impact performance at all, and fix the smell, and .. well, the cats make the car sound better lol.

Excuse me your gearbox/transmission issue is supposed to take 6 months (and counting) like mine.

I say no, but something people don't really look into is what problems they are trying to fix by forging a motor. What are these problems? Were people getting stock motors, and melting pistons, or having pistons fail, and rods bend? (in 2021?) No? If they aren't - What good is stronger pistons and rods? Forged motors aren't failing because the forged pieces fail, and they aren't really upgrades for failing bits anyway. There's a enormous thread on oil control to keep bearings alive, but people much prefer to forge a motor and put the money there instead of an accusump or a drysump for some reason. Can't really do much about blocks cracking when IT becomes the weakest link. 320kw is the happy spot for a RB that gets used outside of Instagram, and other parts of the car work well there, clutches, diffs, subframes, the ability to grip the road, turbo lag etc. When your car is driving around daily, it is making about ~50rkw, so you can go and get 300,000km of driving at ~50kw from a 500kw motor if you never actually use the power, so km/chronological time since rebuild isn't even that accurate a factor if you don't consider how its being used. Keep in mind that GT3 engine manufacturers rate their 500hp (at the crank) engines for Mclaren, Mercedes, Nissan, Audi, Lambo etc for about 12,000km of race use. And these are VERY expensive, VERY modern, VERY engineered motors with HIGH displacement made specifically for continued high power use. In a category where lasting longer than your competition has a massive competitive edge. Instagram performance is not real world performance.

[old man hat on] You're potentially adding complication here for little benefit. Consider the piping in the bay and the convoluted path it needs to get back to the throttle. Consider the issues/cost going FFP and visual legalities too, you'll need to do one or the other but plenty of people do route piping to the stock throttle body location. It's really sensible to let the PCV continue doing what it was designed to do. There's two elements of it (by "fixing" it), venting excess crankcase pressure, and controlling oil from going back into the intake. Keep in mind you will be adding something to manage (i.e emptying the can) but it won't draw nearly as much oil if it's not connected to some kind of suction point. PCV and oil control are really track mods - What do you really plan on doing with the car, are you modifying systems that even need improvement? Have you identified where the stock PCV is holding you back, and how, and how it needs to be changed to suit your use? The simplest way is to put a can 'between' the PCV system hoses so it intercepts the intake, then proceed to worry if the amount of caught oil is normal Spoiler: It's been going into your motor the entire time with minimal issues 😛 Same story with the AFM. I've never heard anything other than "It kinda works most of the time" with AFM's post Z32 (the card style, and R35 style upgrades) Most people go a MAP based ECU at that the point that a Z32 is truly no longer usable.

Okay okay, I stand corrected, they look pretty baloony on a 1979 E21 320i! They look fine as an OEM tyre on an OEM car designed for this (and not for stock 13's)!

Your maths and GTSBoy's maths is right. I just have PTSD about those tyres fitting on another car. Given we're talking about skylines and skyline stock rims on a skyline and stock skyline rolling diamater this is all hunky dory good to go. Still look like 4 drag tyres though 😛

The one I was using is the Blitz. There's sometimes a difference between academic gains and actual real world gains you can feel. Do a dyno before and after and see, but a larger core IS better and having less bends IS better, but what you have will suit what you need well enough too. It's up to you to determine if your $ is worth ... however much gain this truly is for however you truly use the car, and how truly stock you want it to look and so on

Yes, I've made 420+ through an auto with a stall converter, so close to 500 with a damn manual. I know the losses of the converter because I went back to the same dyno with a manual later and plotted the differences. My intake air temp on the track at a track day was something like 35C on a 28C day. My engine was not unopened and I was running 24psi on E85. Others have noted differences by changing the intercooler but reports are thin on the ground when someone only changes the intercooler. There's many many reasons 300kw is a good number to stop at for sanity reasons (grip, clutch drivability, lag, reliability in general). If you're near there already, then leave the car alone and enjoy driving the damn thing instead of pulling it apart and paying tens of thousands of dollars.

Just remember 225/50/R16 tyres have MASSIVE sidewalls. I have a mate with a BMW who ended up having to go to AD08R because they make a 225/45/R16 which was way more suitable. Good tyre though, have had them everywhere, and good for anything on the road and journeyman track days!

Sorry I had to re-google. Comp cams make one, not Crow, I knew it was some cam company.. There's also various copies out there, or other versions Billet Belt Tensioner for GM LS1, LS2, LS3, LS6 and LS7 (compcams.com) I bought this one on the advice of the VASS engineer who suggested I should get one, can confirm it installs easy, works perfect, seems good etc etc.