Kinkstaah

You let the Nissan out Realistically, 300kw. Use it. Enjoy it. Potentially even use it again 😛

The R34 has a much faster reacting oil pressure display. Other Skyline owners hated me when I was like "what, the OEM oil pressure works perfectly?" When I re-shelled my car, I noticed my oil pressure display was slow. I re-bought the OEM nissan sensor and it was fast again. Me thinks in this case it was the sender being updated in some revision, at least in this one, specific case!

Oh if it were only that simple lol

There is one in Vic, at Docklands. ABMarc hire time out. It costs about $2000 a session, with a good 2-3 month wait time, pre-covid. The other one is Sydney at Botany RMS. This is free. Making an appointment was super easy.

All of the brands and prices are likely going to be different here. These cars aren't new, and everyone here has been here for well over a decade and know the game. Everything is custom made. Intakes for your turbo, manifolds, exhaust are all custom to every application. Lines, hoses etc - Custom to every application. Dyno tuning is custom to every car. The G25/G30 Garretts are likely the simplest fit if you aren't doing all the labor yourself. Mainly due to the fact they're physically smaller. I would go a full race manifold simply because they're good, and USA based. All the stuff in AU will be going 6boost et al which are australian based. Intercooler, eh - If you have a guy who is going to make you a full custom exhaust, it's not a stretch for the same guy to make up intercooler pipes to suit whatever core you have available locally that can fit. Same story for intake/pod/airbox if you want one of those. If you can get a plug in ECU it will save a lot of time and heartache. ---- You could go smart and forget about a custom manifold, and a custom turbo and get in touch with Hypergear for a truly bolt on applicaiton that will make the power. 350whp is possible with: Stock exhaust manifold Stock turbo that has hiflowed internals (which means it bolts up perfectly to stock lines, stock intake etc). This will be much simpler, but you'll still need an exhaust of some description, though you COULD get away with an off the shelf dump pipe, making your exhaust guy's life much easier. Still need an intercooler of some description, but you could get by with a return flow kit (blitz etc) that will work fine for that target. The only other fabricatory thing you'd need is some kind of metal intake to the turbo, as the silicon can suck shut under that much vacuum. Still need ECU, Injectors, Coilpacks (likely), and fuel pump that isn't too hard to fit/mount, and make sure you get 14V to that pump instead of the OEM 12. Will this perform as well as a full race/garrett small G series turbo to make the same peak power? No. Do you care? Depends on your budget and very much on how much access to custom fabrication you have.

This guy is definitely going to have all sorts of pain owning a car like this. You have to upgrade pretty much everything to get 260kw. The only difference between what you need for 260kw and 560kw is the engine build part. Still need every supporting mod, and buying a 260kw turbo is much the same price as a 560kw turbo.

And it would be certainly cheaper to just buy my already converted LS + TR56/6060/Magnum combination. So what's your budget? 😛 It is well worth stating that this is not a cost effective scenario. None of it is. If you want bang for buck you have the wrong platform and pretty much any other platform will get you where you want for less. Have a very well defined goal before planning anything or spending a cent.

Its worth mentioning that this is one of the things that don't really have write ups as they are generally pretty trivial. Don't necessarily go overboard because if you really need to beef up the wiring the stock fittings may not handle the amperage that an upgraded pump will draw. Generally however the stuff is fairly trivial to fit unless you're really going for a BIG pump. I never noticed any difference in the plug/wiring/general setup between the non turbo 34 and turbo 34 (but my non turbo base car was a 2.5). Either way, it'll become apparent when you pull the current pump out as to what needs to happen by holding them side by side. It's always a good idea to get 14V to whatever pump you do choose, which is a seperate task but again not overly complicated and should* be documented here.. somewhere..

There's a couple of beeps I can think of. One is the 'key' beep and the other one is the reverse beep (for auto cars). Do you know which one it is? Just so that you can then narrow down which circuit is causing the issue.

I think it's way more likely that people will just change their habits, and charge massively at home - and when they can't, they'll make use of the 45 minute charging times and charging locations will take suit. Why not plan for an ACTUAL lunch break at a restaurant? Or watch an episode or two of your favourite show on a tablet? Which may even be inside the car? This is if anything, kind of more comfortable. How long do you wait between sessions on a casual track day? About 40 minutes? I don't doubt the second an EV car similar to an 86 or MX5 appears to hit that market that will cause a ton, ton, of migration to them. You can even add silent hooning to the list. People won't complain about hoons at night if they can't hear them. No police car will be suspicious of the sound of your EV 86 and hear you coming. Not to mention the reliability benefits. I reckon one of the first groups to truly embrace the EV will be car enthusiasts like the ones on forums like these 😛

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply you weren't serious That said Searching the internet does lead you to believe 370kw is "safe, for years bro" and it is not always that case, or that simple. People's use cases vary so very drastically. Honestly NA+T I'd shoot for something like 240kw with a manual gearbox and highflow OEM looking turbo and be like yep go enjoy car. However if you can't afford to live without the car/can't afford a rebuild/don't have another motor then Step 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, is obtain a backup car/work towards an engine ready to go. Have a backup plan. These are not cars you can drop off at your local ultratune and expect a broken motor to be replaced within a week.

As a serious answer 500rwhp (372kw) is not really that reasonable long term under heavy abuse (track work). I wouldn't push any stock RB that hard unless you're comfortably happy to rebuild/know a guy/have patience for it. For the non turbo motor, I've heard similar numbers, but given it has higher comp I would just tune the car on 98 (or 93/91 as I suspect you're not Australian), and let knock be your guide. E85 is good, but regular petrol does act like a bit of a sanity check.

I should immediately state that I have (had?.. sort of have?) a GTT. This is probably different in some way. In my car the ECUs involved appear to be seperate. SURELY people have put aftermarket ECU's in GTR's and retained AWD and ABS though... Sometimes there's no results about specific problems because there are no problems

My car has a LS1 in it. It still has ABS. I didn't need to remove anything, pretty sure it cares very little about the car ECU, as I've also previously had a haltech ECU as well and not run into this.

You can put huge tyres on the back with custom wheels, there's a ton of room on the inside of the R34 rear to pick up some seriously large rubber. I think I measured I had something like 40mm extra room to play with when I stuck my head under there and measured. (and I have 275's back there already) Would need a rim with a custom offset to make use of this though. Fronts you can run 255 without scrubbing. I run 265's up the front (265/35/18) and didn't have any scrubbing until I took it to the race track. Even then if I got creative with a heat gun I could have moulded it further away/clippied it closer to the body if I had've cared a great deal. (I care a little deal) Funny enough if you have wide enough guards a 285/30/18 (or 295!) will avoid liners better than a 275/35/18. But that's future talk.

I wouldn't assume that either given other things about it. This is brave, but its also good that it's intended to be saved!

I looked into this for the LS! It looks like there's an adaptor plate for the LS, and the gearbox itself.... ... and nothing else. No easy to find dimensions/sizes of things, no electronics, Noone sells the rest of the 'kit' to make it actually 'work'. But I wish they did >.>

For real, I am currently shopping for a very expensive gearbox while my clutch is out. (???? cars...) Buy once, cry once, then enjoy the benefit. That said is there actually any benefit with a Samsonas for your intended use 😛

I sent a message to Daleo, but it seems he is now extinct. The BNK010 kit (front and rear+links for 33/34RWD) - Does anyone have any .... any photos of this overlaid with a stock bar? I know they fit a stock car. I used to own them, but for some reason I was ultra concerned with my LS swap. However after using the stock bars, they f**king suck. And I seem to have a LOT of clearance when I have the car up on the hoist. Way more than the ... 1? 2? mm of difference between the OEM bar and the 24mm bar. At least in terms of bar thickness. There's a lot of clearance now. I can't see why I was possibly concerned in the past. Does anyone know if these fit pretty much exactly the same 'bends' as the OEM one, but are XYZmm thicker? Can anyone define XYZ in regards to the 24mm bar on a R34 GTT front? (the rear has not changed at all, so is not of concern

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Aren't the CD009 ratios hyper short? They'd be really great with a 7th for cruising (in my application) Whats with the hardcore build then if it's not going to go to the track? Booooooo!

Can I interest you in a T56? Better ratios also I want to sell mine. Colour looks really good, and glad to see you didn't give up on it so fast!

Ahhh, technically the way in Victoria is you are supposed to Engage the engineer (VASS) before you register the car. This is why you can't engineer only a specific mod, the entire car as a whole must pass with all modifications done to it. You then have a VASS cert and a RWC and you can then register your modified car. I did my conversion and had the registered, but off the road while the V8 went into it. I did have to drive it to Sydney to get the Emissions test for Victoria (lol - IM240) so during that solitary drive if I got defected well, it'd be moved around on a trailer most likely after that. But that didn't happen, so here I am. I am very jealous of the more lax emission laws in WA, and as a bonus you can get it done inside your own state!

Sorry - What I meant to say by 'wrong' is how far your mods are outside of the guidelines as to what can be certified. Not sure what you mean about 'pre approval to modify'. Sounds different to here. But yes, it makes sense to have another runabout to at least own while the engineering is going on if the time it takes is paramount. Given you can get a cheap runaround cheaper than a Turbo kit, if you're serious about engineering a car it shouldn't be too bad.

Depends heavily on what you did 'wrong'. Usually these guidelines are fairly straightfoward to lay out. You may just need people to sign off things if you meet the criteria initially. I found it a pretty simple process in one of (the?) hardest state to get engineering done. BUT I knew what the guidelines/rules were before I started any work!