Kinkstaah

I mean what you should do in this case is datalog and find out what is actually occurring in this state. Is the car lunging because it's lean (Probably), or timing is doing weird things? Worth seeing what the ECU is actually attempting to do and then sorting it out from there. These things aren't cammed V8's (ask me how I know) so it should be very smooth cruising around at 600rpm in gear. Once you're in gear, the clutch you have is taken out of the equation, as is your drive shaft, and diff. You're all dependent on the smoothness of the 6cyl up front, which should be very smooth. This is going to require datalogging to determine what the ECU thinks is happening and better correlating it to what is actually occurring. It could be any of the very many systems throwing too much/not enough fuel and too much/not enough timing.

Doesn't look like the catch can fittings are going to be very fun with the throttle body (and pipe). Are they on different planes?

The thing about the above is that the R34 already has a triple gauge cluster for this. Though you could run 3 _more_ which is what I used to do back in the day. But you do start to run out of things to monitor. Ultimately the stock ECU is kinda limited. You end up eventually replacing the stock ECU then start picking up gauges and displays that interface with the ECU you end up going with.

It absolutely, 100% can come out. Every time I took it out and put it back in in the past I had to re-familiarize myself with how it came out. When it's the right angle, it actually comes out very easily.

It is actually a bit dicky to slide out. I'm assuming you removed all the bolts on it :p It does require a certain angle to go in/come out. When you line it up right you will see it will just slide out. You may need to take off the coupler for the throttle body to get the clearance. You may need to remove the engine cover's bracket as well. There's a fair bit of angles and a bit of twisting to get it to slide out which I assume is the issue here.

Good job man! One of the things I was most excited about was when the JDM and USA plates came out in Vic for the Skylines, as the actual cutout of the bumpers actually matched the dimensions of the plate, f**king finally.

I mean to do it right you need to measure. The only thing really to consider is where the wheel will be sitting relative to your current wheel, and whether you will have clearance for brakes. Your front wheels will sit 5mm further in-board than your current rims. (offset 35 vs 30). The rears will sit 9.4mm further in-board from the outside of the car, and give you 3.4mm more clearance on the inside. It's smaller on both sides because it's a slimmer rim (10in vs 9.5in) willtheyfit.com is a great resource to use to determine where one set of wheels will sit relative to another future set. If you really really like your new design, you could put a 5mm spacer up front, and a 10mm spacer at the rear, and they'll sit where your current wheels sit. No idea if spacers are legal in the UK. I'd still argue it's best to find wheels that do fit. I'm confident whatever this is, is also on the money.

This is a car that should not be being driven around. Also, an untuned car running rich due to mods is... never a thing. Also, driving an untuned car long enough that you're inspecting the oil is all sorts of wrong. You are speedrunning the Car-Darwin awards here dude. I get it, you want to have fun and be cool in shiny toy.

You shouldn't be doing anything but driving the car to the tuner, off boost. Doing this could well be within the boundries of comparing: "Does my oil go black faster" and "Do the pistons usually stay inside the engine?"

I want to say that Haltech can be used with ODBII tools nowadays. Kinda useful if you want your head unit to do other things as well, like maps, music, phone calls.. *and* digital gauges. Stock ECU does not use ODBII. I don't think a R34 is going to have any head unit that reads OEM ECU's to display.... the things the gauges already display. (boost, battery voltage, oil temperature, oil pressure)

So.... Why'd you do it? Just for weight loss?

Also, when it comes to HP and Reliability, it REALLY depends on your use case. And you have to be honest. You also need to remember there's basically 0% chance of a reliable, 600HP RB25 that is doing 1 track day a month for multiple years. If you're cruising around on a twisty road and spend a cumulative 15 seconds of full throttle use a month, your definition of reliable will change drastically.

Okay, well, I don't disagree with what you say GTSBoy... Too often in road cars people just go ALL STIFF because it's more responsive feeling but it doesn't always equate to actually having more grip. Squat is a good example. As you've seen, racecars have big sidewalls for a reason, because the tyre itself is part of the suspension geometry which is often overlooked in a world of fitment and really harsh/fixed everything else(s). I am yet to see a road tyre be selected for how it's carcass and stiffness works with regards to suspension geometry. (I know it is in racing for all the reasons given above). But I also have poly everything, and managed to dislodge my diff bushings somehow. So I have rubber ones in there now myself :p

I mean... what movement do you mean? There's no free lunch here. If you take the slop out of bushes then it will get transmitted to the road. The reason drift cars have stiff everything is so that there's nothing absorbing anything between the engine and the road, but make no mistake they have less traction due to it. So when you say 'movement' if you want the side to kick out less, then this won't help. It'll potentially make it more predictable for the driver (you) though.

How is it "ASAP" before the wheels have even been made? If someone is out there making the wheels they should have diagrams of spacing for brake calipers and all other stuff for people in the very first run of a set of rims to consider. Anyway, here's a link from this forum with R33 GTR wheels on a R32 GTST. And here's a post from you, in that thread, with the same question. They won't poke out the front. They're 2mm further in from the fender. Get 18x9 +30 all round and call it a day. Or 18x9 +28 all round and call it a day. Then it'll look the same. If the +30 set and the +28 set have different faces, well, that's when you get into asking them for diagrams for brake caliper clearance.

Yeah, but... how much skinner is it? 5mm? 10mm?

This was relating to R33/R34. I don't know with regards to R32's. There's probably some difference between R33/R34 and R32 that is known, but not by me :p

Wouldn't it be of the power range where a larger cam is more beneficial that is not VCT friendly? Generally speaking I'm ALL for smaller cams and VCT, but I am not making 1000HP in a time attack car. This could actually be an application where a larger camshaft that isn't VCT capable may actually have a use case.

>complete amateur >1:24 at Winton laggy massive HP RWD R32 I dunno about the first part I would argue this use case probably doesn't need VCT, won't be in the rev range that it would ever be active!

Ah, LS time then.

Amayama are good and ship stuff fairly frequently. There's also Kudos and Taarks in Australia, but people rarely stock these things unless they are super common, so buying random bits and bobs (while we still can) is a bit of the R chassis lifestyle. So at least you've figured out what it does, it opens up on full lock to counter the load of the pump dragging your idle down. If that's not a big issue you may never want to fix it. If your OCD kicks in you may want to fix it just because. But now you know what it is, and how it works, and whether you need to fix it.

Playing devil's advocate, upping the fuel pump severely while using stock gear can actually raise the fuel pressure because it overpowers the reg. The thing is, to really confirm this, you install a FPR gauge, and usually that also comes with a regulator.... so nobody knows whether this actually is overpowering the stock regulator or not. Suppose that scenario is not a stock car tho.

You have a series 2. That is a normal series 2 bumper. It has that design for GT, GTV and GT-T trims. The GT-T Series 2 bumper will have a vent on the passenger side, which is where the intercooler is mounted. Here's a pic from your own thread. If you want a S1 bumper, you will also need to buy the headlight support brackets as they are understandably different. If you want to fit a front mount intercooler one day, PM ME because you need to cut up some brackets from the OEM reinforcement bar. I would love to have an unmolested reinforcement bar and you can have my pre-cut one :p

Okay it seems there's a slight design difference there with the hex which will do nothing at all. The ones I had were the EFI Solutions round ones. I was able ratchet the nuts with huge torque and they were flat and FIRMLY into it. You could say they became part of the lid, given they physically melted into it. It doesn't get any more firmly attached than that! The heat generated is enough to melt the plastic insulators. I agree, you would think Walbro would use wiring in their own pump with enough gauge to handle the heat their own product creates, but it just doesn't seem to be the case long term. I suppose it's possible that mine only shifted towards the end of their 10 year life before melting through, but that said... it can shift again, a nut can come loose again. The solution is a different type of plug, that is held in mechanically and can't shake loose and self-create a bad connection.