Kinkstaah

Do not underestimate the hardpark instagram peer pressure. It is very real.

Tbh this is kind of also true of any big HP build. People's opinions of "Daily" differ greatly, as well as "tracking it all the time and it never breaks". They probably don't have the data, as they don't have people that really daily a 800kw R34 GTR even though they say they "daily it all the time" which may mean the odd cruise every 2 months. Ultimately I say the old adage is true. Build the car for the scenario you want to be using it in the most.

I've had Steve's car alarms twice. They seem pretty decent. Enough for me to go back for a second time, they come to you, they have plenty of options and I'm sure the tech has gotten better over the last few years with ... well, all the new tech that exists now.

tbf I have 265's on a 9 and it looks almost completely square with the rim. Forgive the blur. I could conceive someone putting it on a 8.5, but yeah I wouldn't spend the extra money on that when 255/245/235's are a thing.

Tbh having done both the only tricky part really is the auto. It makes more sense to throw a manual in. Making the BIG V8 work is a lot more work outside of the drivetrain. That part is the easy part! The post a couple above is very accurate. Looking at the diagrams back to back you realise its a lot simpler than people make it seem (my memory is hazy now, many years and setups ago). The problem is the inertia of getting someone to actually look at it. The bias of "Oh, a R34???? oh... it's N/A... oh... it's auto.. yeah okay... back of the line" is VERY real.

As above, I would have thought the TCU will get stuck in 3rd/limp mode, because it expects things that it isn't getting. If you can supply what it was getting it'll answer a lot of google searches on this one.

I think FROM MEMORY (which is 7+ years old a memory now, maybe longer) you CAN snip the wires from the gearbox TO the TCU, and connect them to the corresponding pin on the GTT Engine ecu. I know it is documented on the workshop manuals as to what the pins on the TCU are *for* and there is a corresponding pin on the Engine ECU. I noticed this when I was removing the OEM TCU and wiring it into an aftermarket gearbox ECU. I never tried it myself, as I had an aftermarket ECU running the engine anyway. Yes, my fix for this at the time was run a standalone engine ECU for the GTT motor, and run a seperate gearbox ECU to run the gearbox, as the car sat around for 3 years outside of my control while it took specialized JDM workshops to... not... look at the manual and figure it out. Then there's the issue of the fact the NA gearbox is a piece of shit. The GTT gearbox when built up isn't exactly daily friendly either or performance friendly. Spend 10K+ on that. To get this absolutely clear, you won't have a nice, working enjoyable car unless you do the equivalent of an engine/gearbox swap, because that is what you will be doing. And why go to that effort.. for a NA+T and a... N/A auto box? Return everything not bought yet. Sell car. Buy 86. Add turbo. Posting here for future googler's reasons. There is no cheap way to a R34 GTT via a NA+T given the price differences. There never was, but there still isn't now.

You will also have bigger issues than merely this, your auto is going to be in a world of hurt unless you wired the standalone TCU into the loom of the GTT ECU that you have. To get this working you will need to teach yourself wiring and tuning if you haven't already, or be prepared to spend on hundreds of hours of someone else's labor as they figure it out while not wanting to 😛

I mean, while this is all true and all, I managed to get my V8 conversion fully engineered, and when doing so they must pass all elements of the car. It's like a super defect + RWC all in one. It has aftermarket seats (OEM from a different car) and home made adapters (to adapt the seat to the rails)... which were/are Recaro rails for a R34. This may not get the scrutiny you're worrying about, unless you've got bright blue/red seats or something that needs a HANS device or is a full fixed back style seat. I've used a harness with mine, and I wasn't going anywhere. All I can assume is that the engineers just figured they were stock seats. But yeah. Don't cheap out on seats, harnesses, hans, safety. You may feel like a pillock with all the gear but if you're going home to a family at the end of the day no-one can really say you're being silly about it.

Unfortunately (fortunately?) I sold the diff on the weekend. To a guy putting a BMW V10 into a R33. Ambitious but buyer is very cluey.. How about those Nismo stickers on those um Inovit wheels FWIW, I had 9.5 +27 in the past, I was able to get 265's at the front and back, but it requires some very aggressive rolling and the clearances are razor thin. But it can be done if you want more grip in the future!

I am just jealous of how nice the car actually looks. The OEM Plastic lip/skirt/pods really de-uglify the 34 sedan. (Without obliterating ground clearance either) What a neat setup overall. Keep doing what you're doing.

I have 265 on the front, but not on those rims. I can't imagine you will have a problem with 235/40 on front and 265/35 on the rear. Worst case guards may need a slight roll depending on height and camber settings for your car.

A mix of two different oils, 10-50 (Penrite racing) because I aim to give it a belting at the track and wasn't sure how hot it'd get with an oil cooler (just over 100C is the answer!). I put 10-40 racing from penrite in the accusump/topup area because LS and 'its probably fine'. The manual calls for 0-30 but I still get shaky actually putting that in. Blame the RB in me who likes 10-60 when things get hot!

So.... somethings have happened since August, Covid, and the likes for me down in melbourne. Also bought, and sold a house while not being able to leave the house, so that's fun. So here's some updates. In short, the car sat outside and had a lot of spiders. I cleaned it, then went into all the nooks and crannies with a can of RAID and found all the spiders I had missed. "Good" times when about 8-10 of the medium sinister looking crawlies came out of said nooks and crannies, quite upset. Sound deadening/heat insulation I sold my Renault recently, so immediately had to use this as the Daily, and while it's 'okay' as a daily, I also immediately contacted www.carbuilders.com.au and decided to spend quite a lot of money on their stuff to soundproof/heat insulate the interior of this car, including under the bonnet. This is booked in for Dec 7. I have always secretly enjoyed their stuff with their videos on how to make a car more livable, the fact they do infact offer to fit their stuff was really good! (I thought). So yay!. Stay tuned for my novel on the difference *that* makes if you're dumb enough to add a set of long headers directly infront of the driver, then directly under the drivers seat. Accusump I also finally got the Accusump fitted. Sometimes things just work out well. Good karma, and all that! Connected that up, pressurized the accusump, no leaks (that I know of... yet) and hunky dory! Just don't drive into anything, and we'll all be fine. Also noticed due to COVID the car liked to... overheat when driving around with Aircon on now. Joy. Given it didn't do this last summer, and it wasn't even that hot (30C), and literally nothing had changed, I was a bit stumped by this. The only variable was the fact my battery was 'white' instead of 'green' and I could only imagine that maybe the alternator isn't doing enough work at low RPM and the battery can't keep up or something? I don't know how thermos work, clearly. Anyway after a decent (1hr drive) this no longer happened, but I was unsatisfied with my 13.5V at idle. Alternator I went out and bought this -> One Wire Alternator #8242NB - TUFF STUFF Performance Accessories It is a 175 amp LS1 alternator. I buy it, guy is like "This is for a Camaro..." but I buy it anyway cause dumb. I find out shortly after that the Commodore Alternator I have has an entirely different 2 pin plug, instead of the new one which wants a 4 pin plug. I am dismayed and start the google process, to find that that "4 pin plug" can be setup with a variety of American cars with 1, 2, 3, or even 4 pins of that plug in use, which is different amongst the various cars this alternator plug comes with. I am dismayed more. I then find a mysterious loom plug that looks like it will fit directly into the alternator, with *2* wires in said plug. I find out the maker of the loom is a USA company, and it looks like this new loom was optioned for this style of alternator, and my loom in my car was modified/added to to work with the Australian alternator. Kudos to BP Performance for replying to me at 10PM USA time. Turns out you can get those looms with an option for the Bosch/Commodore alternator, but for some reason that wasn't chosen for my loom, not entirely sure why, at all. I even went back to the supplier of said loom and mentioned it, as they were helping me with 'what did you do to my loom exactly' questions. Turns out I could infact, just plug the alternator in, and now I have 14.4V at idle, and 175amps of juice, now that it is correctly being driven by the ECU. Turns out non ECU driven Alternators only put out ... 13.8v maximum in failsafe mode. OH WELL. Then driving the car home to my new house, I was seeing how close I could park to its new parking spot in the carport, as you do. Then when I was happy with it, I just took my foot off the clutch with the car running, in gear. I am god damned buffoon: I cannot have nice things. Please send F's in chat and/or sympathetic paint/dent fixers in Melbourne.

Buy my LSD if you have a GTT. Buy a S15 Diff if you have a N/A. Don't do anything else.

But um, the lockdown late was *last* weekend (the 14-15th!) In any case, this road actually gets better/worth driving on from Gembrook through to Launching Place, then through the Reefton Spur or Mt Donna Buang. C'mon, get amungst it!

There is no hooking with any road tyre. This is what drag radials are for. Don't stress. ANY road tyre will spin up with a launch of anything over ... 1800rpm...

Anything in Australia is a copy of something from Japan. subscribed for any information myself, lol. Especially if anyone makes a lip kit/side skirt extensions for this thing. I've never found any.

The important thing is you had fun. You may not know it yet but the fun may have been 99% of the fun you would have had in a much faster car. Tyres and brakes that give up well before you even get going are NOT fun. Over heating is NOT fun. It sounds like you avoided those problems which is a great day in any book!

A lot of nismo "1.5" ways are actually 1 ways. My 1.5 way is decidedly closer to a 2 way, in perception and practice. There's no such thing as a 1.5 way anyway, just differing ramp angles of 2 way, but noone is advertising any diffs as "45/45, 45/67.75 or 45/90" diffs or anything like that.

---double post

Adding ethanol to 91 reduces the price. Thus, Ethanol is cheaper than ULP 91 fuel. by a significant margin too. Add more than 10% of it though, and it is somehow massively more expensive. For that reason alone they can get f**ked. I am glad I'm on 98.

Consider a transmission cooler (and fan, when idling.. especially as a daily!) and/or transmission cooler gauge. I was surprised as to how warm it all got when idling away.

Should have just bought my R34 Nismo 1.5 way.

That is a great way to empty a catch can. A really good way. Now I want a tap on mine as I too have a fitting on the bottom... lol