Kinkstaah

Have you considered a true boat? With a true boat anchor up front? Sorry man. I feel you.

This is because the new ECU is not driving the gearbox, and your NA gearbox is being driven by the NA gearbox ecu. (which is not the part you changed)

The NB SP is very different to a SE. Buy the SE, it came from the factory, is cheaper and generally OEM is best vs what an AU tuning company did to a non turbo car in 2002. Applying mods in 2020 will give better results lol.

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/mazda/mx-5/se-badge/ They seem closer to the 15-20k mark? MX5 motors are stout and the OEM turbo will do 190kw. That said, there's a lot at that price point. Namely 370z or 86's.

subscribed (this will either be super easy or near impossible). Would have been much better, cheaper, and easier to put a VQ35 in and/or build/forge/boost that motor methinks.

This is a Garrett thread, but were people aware Garrett have also mentioned maximum shaft speeds the entire time? It's just that BW were more open about it. Everything ultimately has a limit. The G25 also has a speed sensor option as well... and I think it was just BW pioneering putting a sensor in there for people to use that lead to people being mindful of it and then viewing it as a limitation.. I'd personally pick a G25 purely for packaging, seriously. Heat and lines and shit is also a thing! This is a 400+ rwkw SR20. I mean you'd have to have a pretty damn good reason to argue for anything else than a G Series in a modified road car right now where you have to consider space at all, for any reason.

Cmon. This is due to people on SAU (and all JDM people) picking appropriately sized turbos for a 5 second pull and the best results on a dyno or the street. Garretts have historically been a little bit happier to take that abuse. Turbos sized for track use are always bigger than the above quote. EFR's are used on Indycars. EFR literally stands for Engineered For Racing!

It's not actually so bad - If you have a manual gearbox from a R33 GTST this is something that has been done many, many times. See also: a R34 GTT gearbox. Just make sure it's a turbo gearbox. The workshop manuals will get you home with a gearbox conversion and/or its been covered here many times. This fixes 90% of the problems, because the only 'hard' stuff is making the auto work. If you have no auto to talk to anymore, then eh, any of the WIDELY available ECU's can run the motor, and the your brain can be the ECU for the manual

Going by GTR-Registry you'd be right (and I'm aware of no other source) BP9 (darker blue) seems to be S1 only. TV2 (bayside blue) seems to be S2 only. So something isn't adding up, and it would be monumentally unlikely that someone resprayed the engine bay a Series 1 colour...

I mean, have a look at WTAC if you want to see what a S13/180 chassis can do. Or a porsche from 1991. Racing is seat time + budget. Can never have enough of either! There's no fast and cheap effective option. Some are better than others, sure, an 86 is a better platform than a 1950's Ferrari - but in anything serious enough it pays to check out the regulations first. And if there's no regulations then the objective really should be 'smiles'

The only thing that will directly bolt on is the car you are trying to turn this in to. Also it won't directly bolt on. Your ABS will be different to a GTT, so your rear diff is a S15 style too. Which you will need, cause you will have an open diff. The closest you will get is the looms etc from a GTT, but be aware, this will not plug and play and "just work" you will have cluster issues (speedo etc) to deal with. This car will teach you many things, in $ or in learning. There is no completely non-thinking way to achieve this goal. 2 million yen is what they sell for here too. You will only save money in sweat equity. Source, had R34 Non turbo, then put a turbo motor in it, then obtained a GTT, then manual converted it, then put a LS V8 and T56 into that GTT. I've seen things. You will too.

Maybe I should convince my girlfriend to sell hers, for the right price ?

I have heard so many horror stories about 135i's from people I know that I would never want one of these. Boosted FA Rod bender is the choice, but the real sleeper is a NB Turbo MX5 from the factory. (or buy my megane)

370'z are going down in price, and R33's are going up. A smart choice is an older 370z for peanuts. A really really smart choice is an 86 with a mild boost kit. Skylines are great IF you can HAPPILLY encounter these problems and gain enjoyment from fixing them up, making them great, and enjoying the little things like buying satisfying new lines and shit. If this does not bring enjoyment to you, buy something you don't need to do this with. A Skyline that does not need this stuff done to it will likely run 35k++++.

It's not that the cars are bad. I really love mine and I don't think I'd have anything else. So many stories, fun times, and learning that don't happen with a car you don't have to build from the ground up. RB25's are great, it's just best to be realistic when it comes to just how long and hard you can burn a candle at both ends. 90's cars were so project prone because the OEM gear was, well, not optimal. Nowadays OEM gear is a lot more optimal. Noone's putting coilovers on their M4 Competition (to the extent people would on say, a R32/33/34). My little megane hot hatch did a track day on OEM everything and it was the most fun trouble free day I've had. If you want to have a car where you get the satisfaction of changing everything, making it yours, watching it 'grow' then they are a great car. If you want to buy a car for resale, no. If you want a car that is great out of the box and you don't want to become a semi-mechanic, again no. If those things sound fun, then they are awesome cars and there's many many opportunities to spend a lot of cash tinkering and learning. The other side of the coin is this - I always say a GTT is better than a GTR, because in the end everything gets upgraded anyway and the cars only perform at what they get upgraded to, and a GTR becomes a really, really expensive bodykit and heavy AWD system. In this frame of mind the HR34 is going to be just fine - But be prepared to constantly explain that "oh yeah, it is a HR34..." and people do judge on this even if they shouldn't. Try having a sedan and getting 2nd class service everywhere. This shit does happen and people do kind of react based on whats 'cool' Tis just perspective. If the car fits the needs and you will think back and go "Yes, this is what I signed up for, I love this shit" then absolutely go for it.

Here's the thing, the RB25DET and VQ35 (or VQ37) have about the same level of reliable power before they need a forged rebuild. You will also need an aftermarket turbo system on your VQ to get to that point. You will also need a rebuild and aftermarket turbo system on a RB25DET to get to that point. Never buy a skyline without expecting this as being needed soon, and budgeting the cash and the time to having it get done. Any skyline you want has every component done. They become good cars when every component is done. They are good cars because these options are available. Any decent skyline will eventually need: Wheels Tyres (larger than stock) Full exhaust system Aftermarket Radio/Audio Aftermarket Seats Aftermarket Turbo Aftermarket ECU/Engine Management Aftermarket Fuel system (not just injectors, you need pump (s) Aftermarket Suspension (choose a coilover kit of your choice) Aftermarket Bushes/Suspension arms/Camber, Toe, etc. Aftermarket Brake Kit/BBK (especially in your case) Aftermarket Diff Aftermarket axles (in your case) Aftermarket Clutch Engine Rebuild Aftermarket Radiator Aftermarket Oil Cooling (if you want to actually lean on it) You must factor the cost of this into your purchase price. Then remember shit breaks. You like them because you have seen the ones with all of the above done. You've done some of this to your Z. Rebuilt TT VQ is under much less stress than a RB25. You can fit much wider rubber on a Z. You already have the Z. The heart wants what the heart wants, though. Source: Done it all, many times, now have V8 in car because RB25DET is shit. You are talking USD, buy a C5 Z06.

I mean it doesn't necessarily instantly kill the turbo. But there is a reason the people who made the turbo even made a blow off/recirculation valve. There is a reason all? turbos in any performance car have these valves.

How much do you think this RB25DET is going to need repairs? Those fixes etc also do cost money. I just feel that a well sorted Z33 with a rebuilt motor (cant think of what else would cost 6k USD) Has: A rebuilt motor, not a 25 year old RB25det. Also prime for some mild boost. A well sorted Z33 with some boost is just going to be better than a nearly stock HR34 ? However the heart wants what the heart wants. This may also bite you in the butt, because noone really wants a HR34. They want at least a GTT.

The Z is probably better. However you won't run into any issues, the rear sway bar will bolt on (it has the holes, you need the brackets from a GTT). Things are mostly compatible. Think R33 GTST brakes, R33 GTST Coilovers. Your gearbox kinda depends on what gearbox got put in. Could be a R33 GTST gearbox too, pretty common! I am basing this on the HR34 being the same as the ER34. There aren't any real HR34's in AU. The Z is probably better.

They are very similar, but I don't think this has been done before/information is readily available. I know there are *SOME* differences in arms between a 33 and a 34 in the front. Ostensibly they are different for 'some reason' but I don't know if the front subframe is the reason for it. I have bent knuckles and front arms before and found out that the 34 ones have curves in them where the 33 ones are straight. But you also have things like 33 coils fitting in 34's and vice versa (at the front only) and sway bars (I think) 34 coupe and sedan are the same at the front, but as the front subframes generally dont get uh, broken? It's not something that generally gets swapped between cars..

Plenty of people have made over 300 for a few years. RARELY do they see a lot of track time. Given your sim setup you clearly have track aspirations for this car. I don't know what its like in Syd, but when you actually go to a track day, but cars boosting way above stock power are actually really rare. The thing is, your motor will last "X" time at 3X0kw. Then when it does let go, what are your options? 1) Replace engine with literal 20 year old performance engine with unknown treatment, which costs about $4k for a neo now cause.. rare. 2) Rebuild motor, and you may as well build it with all the good stuff.... 3) Resist the urge for 450+kw "because I have a built motor" All for what, so your wakefield time drops 2s? The boost dropping is a turbo actuator thing. You could call it a sanity check. Almost every single hypergear turbo (or any internal gated turbo) that bolted to a RB25 manifold did this. It was addressed by heavier and heavier springs but they all fell off at the top, and the answer always seems to turn into "obtain an external gate" which starts the daisy chain of Gate, Manifold, Fabrication, Different Turbo, Different intercooler cause fab is happening anyway, retune, rebuild motor, change clutch, be sad on track days.

I used a blitz return flow cooler (the one from just jap) and made near on 500kw with it, with intake temps around 30c post cooler. You have the ECU, see what your intake temps actually are before deciding the internet said a thing so it must be true. Even if it's not THE best intercooler, back to back changes will be minimal, especially for 270kw. There's so many good reasons to just stay at 270kw as the changes to go above it (full motor rebuild, manifold, turbo) and the corresponding reliability start to look very dim indeed. What we'd really need to see is all the data as to what exactly the turbo *does* when attempting to make more power. My guess is "it wont hold boost" which was pretty common for older hypergear internal gate turbos which all seemed to make 50+ kw more power when externally gated, especially on an OEM manifold, and 50+ more when E85 was added to the mix. I say put a Garrett G25 or G30 on there, given they should fit in the space pretty well. But definitely, definitely, definitely follow the data. And if you don't have the data, get the data!

I have an attakd 356 kit. If I had my time again I would not buy this, and want to upgrade to the HSV/CTSV 6 pot kit which has a much larger pad, and calipers can be bought brand new for the $2k mark. Benefit from OEM Pad options and OEM disc sizes. Just keep in mind if you do go the attakd kit you want the full pad depth pads, have been burned a few times by getting 'compatible' pads which do fit, but also don't fit. It is mildly annoying, but if you get the right pad, right compound AND UPDATE YOUR BMC it will definitely do the job. Also whatever you do, do not attempt to use the default pads for the track, they are hilariously bad. Unsure on how the "red" ones go.

Yes. Absolutely. Now I get to worry where all my power and grounds are wired to/from!

Also replacing a Haltech Platinum Pro with a G4+ is not an apples for apples comparison. Did you replace an Elite 2500 with one? Generally speaking most standalone ECU's only really cause issues when wired in wrong. There are always benefits to aftermarket management if you know what you are doing, or are curious to learn and get it right. It can be very satisfying!