Kinkstaah

Yep, topmounts can fit with the stock manifold, but you can see why people go FFP and deal with the issues of a FFP, purely to clean it up. Works though!

Nothing - I only got one while my 34 was off the road doing the whole V8 thing, and needed to get around in something that wasn't crushingly depressing during that time... I was under the impression mates would still do track days and car events and I wanted to still do those without the whole "I'd like to go but my car is off the road" problem..

Correct, this issue happens because 1) The NA Auto ECU cannot accept a Nistune 2) A GTT Auto ECU cannot natively run the Auto gearbox from the NA car, because the NA car has a seperate TCU. You can wire the the inputs to the NA TCU into the GTT ECU on the correct pins and bypass the NA Auto TCU. Nissan have the wiring diagrams of both units available in the shop manual. This has only been done successfully a couple of times. It isn't that hard, about ~20 wires. All clearly labelled in the shop manual. People just never tried it, or had need to.

DT Panels or Stud Road Panels in Vic do good work. Have a friend whos R33 rear quarter met a barrier at Sandown and got it fixed through DT. Cost about $5k to repair.

The 225 is effectively the same car dynamics wise, but the rear is less skittish. Infact it's super annoyingly planted, and has a wheelbase a fair bit wider than a GTR (!) and yes, super fun and I prefer the dynamics of the 225 vs the 265, the rear coming around I know is a good thing, but it doesnt 'feel' as predictable, I like to do it with the brake pedal as opposed to just pure inertia. I don't have a golf, but holy shit I have packed a retarded amount of stuff into the 225, stuff my 34 sedan just can't touch. There is something to be said about hot hatches, to be sure.

X84 (second generation). The D95 RS265 is mostly cosmetic, they handle a little differently. The RS265's want to pivot under braking more, and the visibility is way less. Generally nicer interior though. They fixed the issues with the 225 sport when they released the 225 cup. I drove both of those and the difference is surprisingly huge. And yes I noticed immediately getting out of the D95 gen back into mine that I suddenly had space to put stuff everywhere. (inside door jams, inside door rests, specific slots for sunglasses etc, massive center console, etc, multi level glovebox etc etc etc)

Mine has all sorts of cool storage cubbies, one of the things will actually really miss

buy my Megane In all seriousness, they are great little fun cars. (the RS variants of stuff), incl the Alpine to a degree. Criminally underrated. Everyone Raves about the Type R but ignores the Megane which will pants it and look 800% better. Could be because they aren't sold in the USA.

R33 GTR rims are 17x9 +30 ? (but they do fit!) In any case these do fit - Something is off here, the wheels arent what you say they are or something is seriously wrong.

I don't think it's time right now to go buying expensive fun cars. I noticed a lot more inquiries pop up about my Megane just as restrictions started to lift, now obviously all disappeared again. New Supras are really nice and not much/anything better than it in its price range. The ... 1 .. weekend we could all go for a cruise I would have seen at least 20 of them on the road, and they looked great out there. Really made all the MK4's look dated.

Okay so this is the kicker then - You're doing a test where the stock 26 won't actually pass. Funny thing is though, you therefore need mods in order to pass the test, effectively mandating an aftermarket ECU. I found it all pretty interesting tuning the car on the emissions dyno, watching pollution in real time. That said, certain regulatory bodies don't give two shits if they say contradictory things like 1) The engine will not pass stock 2) You are not allowed to modify the engine. I suggest putting a LS into it, it makes for a better engine than a RB26 anyway Though this does or may explain why certain LS's have AIR pumps in them whereas they don't have that here.

This will be far better, easier and more accurate to run aftermarket gauges in the space.

So the drive cycle is similar to the IM240 (just a different drive cycle) That drive cycle would have no effect from stock ECU in regards to that level of stress (i.e, none). The question is what do they compare it to/what targets do they have to hit? If they have to hit the targets for a 1998 vehicle then yeah you should be fine and having an aftermarket ECU (or a R32 GTR ecu for a RB26, it's the same engine after all) shouldn't be any major issue here at all. I mean if you were really worried, you could just get 2 stock ECU's and unplug one before the test. It would take about 4 minutes total, but I doubt heavily it'd be an issue. If the FTP75 is what is being tested against, I found this: "The FTP-75 cycle is known in Australia as the ADR 37 (Australian Design Rules) cycle and in Brazil as test standard NBR6601." This is this: The ADR37/01 (for cars after 97), is what I passed easily with my cammed LS. The only risk involved was literal unburned fuel due to the overlap on the cam. A stock cam would have passed this easily. I can't fathom a Nistune/base tune being so far out not to pass this, that said - So will a stock ECU. Especially given the Nistune can be programmed with a factory map, this really shouldn't be an issue. Worth testing and seeing if it even gets picked up.

Also having actually passed the IM240 test, a Nistuned otherwise OEM car is not going to fail. You would be lucky to actually see boost, and I would wager a 900kw GTR is also not going to fail the IM240. I passed it with a pretty large cammed LS in my Skyline ? If they use the 5 gas system, you'll pass that even easier.

To be fair, Aussies are really good at making these things make way more power and pass far more stringent "I'll look and see if thats stock" than the USA has to deal with. The real answer here is Are you affecting Airflow? If so, you need to adjust fuel to suit. In the real world you're not affecting airflow 'much', but with a R33 GTR, the wick can be turned up quite a lot on stock equipment, and a 270awkw GTR is a very different thing to a ... whatever they actually make on a dyno truly stock and untuned. Making the most of the base equipment on a GTR is well worth a tunable ECU imo.

^---- that. However I chose cable driven in my LS. Why? Cause early DBW kinda suck, and by kinda suck I mean they are slow to respond, programmed not the way you want, etc. If you get one that responds as fast as your foot does, then there's a lot of possibilities as explained above, other than pedal feel I GUESS.

I appreciate the feedback. It is always interesting hearing reviews across the pond, and a lot of them say the 'driving experience' in a Skyline is objectively really good. Even though we're pretty jaded here, we all do kinda agree to that extent. The sky can be the limit with a Skyline, but I've noticed with my own LS6 Skyline... going to put on tyres that would fit a Vette, with very similar weight.. and same drag co-efficient (apparently!) that I'm like .....hmmm.... what am I building here... ... so why didn't you get a Sedan then? ? It is interesting to see how the vehicle dynamics compare really, not many people have both. You can of course boost up a R33 to the point where it will also run 10's and rip your face off, well.. once you hit about 4000rpm. But that's its own fun too.

I have combined these two cars (and a commodore) I have to ask - Why did you want a Skyline when you have a Z06 - Even a turbo Z06? Given the R33 won't shape up to this thing effectively ever, what was the appeal behind it? Just cause forbidden fruit for so long? What makes you decide to go driving in the 33 when you enter your shed etc? Does it do anything different/better/more satisfying?

The number of thousands to do any project like this are in the realm of 10,000's, not 1,000's.. Sadly a V35 engine swap (what do you plan to do with the auto gearbox?) is really less feasible than getting something more suited to the task.

Thank you! I did think about sealing up the old sensor and putting it back into service, but for $80 and something on a shelf on Autobarn I figured I'd replace the sensor too, as they are known to fail ..and may have failed initially in my case causing some/all of the issues initially. I thought in lieu of knowing exactly what to use to seal with at the time, surely an o-ring for a sump plug would do it. Right? Guess not.

So the aircon is fixed for $0. That was nice of them. I noticed however, the bellhousing looked a little oily. I decided to idle my car stationary for 30 minutes, just to be sure. Because it was night, I checked back the following day. Maybe 3rd time is the charm, and I found I could take my intake off and valley cover off in 30 mins, which is a big improvement from when I started... so yay? Suspected my whole "Lets block off the sensor with a sump plug" idea may not have been the best plan. These strips of oil are from the bottom of the intake, which has 2 "sponges" on the back which were utterly covered in oil. Knock sensor 1, seems fine. Knock sensor 2 though, that's some oil there. Off with the valley cover again, and found that when I refit it.. it required a bit more force to 'seat' whereas when I did this the first 2 times it didn't seem to seat so well, and had to be 'bolted down'. So for the sake of that, I was hopeful but decided to take a look at my sump plug over sensor solution. It appeared to me that oil was definitely getting past that O-Ring. Pictured above - The old sender. Because the car is a LS, I went to repco and got a replacement oil pressure sender from the lovely people at Tridon, because f**k me I wasn't going to put a potentially leaky one back in there! As pictured, it has some kind of sealant on the threads, and a crush washer. I noticed it took a fair bit more effort to screw in (it just felt 'tighter) and while I hoped I wasn't cross threading or stripping out the actual engine block, it eventually went in pretty snug. I then spent the next 30 minutes of my life doing this. It was extremely hot and loud with a bellhousing and headers about 5mm from my face. VID_20200726_131702.avi But after 30 minutes of very intense staring, everything was finally bone dry! So in the end, yeah use somekind of thread sealant on something that sees pressurized oil, (that isnt a sealing thread pitch from the factory...) and make sure your gaskets are seated correctly. All ready to not drive!

It's not that it's not effective, its that LSD specific oil (the competition stuff) has stuff for the clutches in it. The Viscous LSD has no clutches The Helical LSD has no clutches The Open diff has no clutches Generally stock diffs in skylines aren't very good anymore, (worn out) so people replace them with aftermarket plate style clutches. These need "LSD" diff oil.

...automanual? The Auto And Manual Turbo diffs are the same (well they have a VERY slightly different ratio). They use the same oil, though. At least standard, which is generally considered pretty shit, as people then update the diff to some other center. Use whatever oil that center wants ?

The reason I asked is cause I noticed you had a pretty serious sim setup, including DD wheel and if you go to that level you quickly realise how much driver mod is a thing, and then noticing where chassis are good and chassis that aren't good tend to shine. Even if it's a sim, but I know you know what I am talking about! I'm also hoping the R34 isn't just a shit platform, given the 86 and RX8 are generally considered to be excellent. Please provide re-assurances for various shit life choices, thanks

I often recommend supercharged/lightly turboed 86's around the 200kw mark for being a perfect little combo of track car/fun hill car/daily, at least to the point where one's skillz are the limiting factor which would be the case until you're a GT driver one would think. How do you feel it stacks up vs your 34?