Kinkstaah

The Michelin 4s are a great tyre because they are 300tw. They actually supposedly have a different blend of rubber on the outside edge of the tyre, so the inside is a 300TW tyre and the outside is approaching R comp. Because you're never really on the outside edge of the tyre unless you are really pushing it, you get long life and good grip. However, they only really come in 19's and above. ;/

The CNC head ported options are a send your heads in, and receive ported heads back. Fully aftermarket bolt on heads are a setup and more expensive, and probably make... ~10kw more power. Though it looks like Lewisengines do offer a pre-built version even if you dont send them a set of heads to use. I used this option for my RB sump... they sent a baffled one, so then I sent my OEM sump to them $200 credit.... and never received it. so.... But yes, the fact you can go and buy prebuilt heads off the shelf, or a 6.3L bottom end with cam, ready to go at like 10 different places on the net is pretty gnarly. All for less than it costs to rebuild a RB tbh. EG: https://www.lsxperformanceparts.com.au/ls-383ci-ls1-stroker-engine-short-engine-n-a-11-5-1/ https://www.pavtek.com.au/index.php/vm-front-page/in-stock-long-engines/in-stock-ls-engines/l383l402hr-detail

So at this point I had a super illegal car sitting at home, with a few things still needed to be sorted out Namely: 1) Android head unit, I wanted something I could operate without touching my phone, and a head unit is less than a fine. 2) Air conditioning still needed to be plumbed in, I had the compressor bolted to the block, and the rest of the skyline system, but no lines attached, so started asking around for that. 3) I needed a tune. I was pretty confident road tuning the car as the car actually is pretty fkin basic compared to previous tunes with the turbo. The HPTuners software is great, VCM logger is awesome, and effectively having a 2D load map is really simple. I really got to know how different it is using an OEM ecu as a base vs something like a Haltech.. the OEM base has tables for EVERYTHING and is much more complex with tables referencing other tables referencing other tables referencing other tables vs the Haltech. But it was fun to learn. I had set conservative timing, pretty rich on the fuel side of things as V8's can run leaner and more or less just drove it around and had lots of fun loading it up in hills to uh, run that new engine in, and hey the stock suspension didn't even feel that bad!.... though the 2 way was still a bit of a clunky mess. Was I paranoid about every single car being a police vehicle oh you bet I was. But in the end, I was satisfied enough that I went to effectively run it up on the dyno to confirm my tuning efforts weren't entirely wrong and the engine wasn't pinging itself to death and of course, to see how much power it made and whether more could be eked out of it. Here's the dyno sheet. The grey line was the first run and the orange line was after the tune, which really was just leaning it out a little (from 12.0 to 12.8) Adding timing did nothing, removing timing also did nothing, no knock detected, no nothing, actually. It was all pretty much... pretty much the same. The issue really is that there is a restriction with the intake and heads, you can see the manifold pressure dropping after about 5000RPM. This cam is supposed to be power between "3000-6600rpm+" according to the spec sheet. You can see that power is certainly not peaking at 6600rpm. @mlr be aware! In my case I was losing about 7kpa which is basically 7% power. A FAST 102MM intake and TB cost around $2000 to maybe address this. A set of heads costs $5000ish. Would I spend $7000 for .. ~30? rwkw? I mean I have in the past but I'm not going to........ yet.... But yes a little short of the fabled 300kw/400whp, which Americans seem to get no problem whatsoever with a cam this size in a cam-only build. The thing gets up and boogies fine from low RPM at least compared to a turbo car, and traction is limited down low anyway so it didn't really seem like an issue - the 4.11 rear gears help a lot. However to make myself sad, I have roughly interposed the LS graph over my old Borg Warner graph. (the red line was 9psi) So no it's not as fast, but there's something about it that is immensely... satisfying about it. In short, ----^ Next steps Suspension Head unit Aircon Engineering

You are going to run into the exact same problem I did re: Cams and the rest of the system being able to supply the air the cam wants. Be aware! If you are going to keep stock heads (and not be super obsessive about checking springs, etc etc, want something that will be put in and forget) then the LSV is the smart choice. The "power" category of that chart does require additional mods to unlock the said power. Drivability is easier in an auto which you have on your side. Cam surge is just shit to live with. Power under the curve is still a thing in V8 land.

Right now that engine bay looks really clean, not much you can really remove from there ?

If it instantly appeared with no stress, and cost $0, you'd be 3k ahead. But I've been down this path and it doesn't cost $0, and doesn't create 0 stress. Realistically is a stock R34 GTT worth 20K? No not really, you can buy plenty of better (stock) cars for that money. At some point "sensible" is not applicable to these things and its all $ -> Personal, subjective enjoyment

The difference between the (very very few) on carsales looks to be about 10K. Will 10K cover a gearbox/ECU/Engine swap/tune? I reckon not, not really, and there's other issues (diff, sensors, also the hassle of doing this). I say buy that cleanish 20K R34 GTT https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1999-nissan-skyline-25gt-t-r34-manual/SSE-AD-6532178/?Cr=2 Then sell R34 GT off to a P plater. Future you would be happier.

So the most impatient wait for any car part went on here, for a Varex muffler that came from Sparesbox honestly pretty cheap and pretty fast. I previously had 2x Magnaflow 3.5in mufflers, one as a mid and one as a rear. This was quiet enough for a Turbo setup but clearly not anymore. Because I am a 5 year old, I asked that we made the rear muffler detachable so I could swap the Varex out with the Magnaflow one for the track because.... 5 year old.... Also, the tip isn't stock. The guys there made a new one and welded it onto the varex to make it neat and sit flush with the rear bumper. I never asked them to do this, they just..... did it out of the kindness of their hearts. You may remember from page 1 (probably) that once upon a time my wiring looked like this: ….when setting up my Auto transmission ECU to work correctly, and use the wheel and shifters to manually change gears. The good news is I learned that the switches on both sides of the wheel are shared (one up, one down) and that they are momentary switches. These buttons remained unused for years, things like antilag etc could have been done other ways. Boost up/down I never used, cause I did boost by gear and had racelogic for traction control. I considered replacing the steering wheel for a manual one for awhile, but NO, finally there was a use again, and this occurred! video-1560494721.mp4 Jesus christ what a shit quality video, but it was revolutionary at the time! At this point in the story I had something resembling an actual car that I could drive, and was monumentally happy, and 90% worried something would break, even though it was left idling for quite some time, AFR's seemed fine, ECU was talking to Laptop and ODB2, nothing was leaking, but always concerned as to how good a quality map was actually loaded in there to begin with. So lets just say the drive home was part really awesome and part extremely stressful, paying wild attention to every gauge, as well as any light whatsoever as I was pretty confident I was driving the most illegal car in Victoria home... but combined with the unknown tune (seemed pretty decent actually) and stock suspension in the car it wasn't really able to be pushed, but I was glad to get it home in the end. Next step, run in the engine, tune it properly/learn how the fkin ECU works and start plans to get the suspension back in/swapped and start the path of talking to Engineers and hopefully finding out that all that work done wasn't just a complete waste of time and money... And because the above video is so shit, I recorded another one today because Coronavirus. One thing I have learned about the V8 is how loud the engine is, as opposed to the exhaust, but it still makes a pretty decent difference, and can see/feel the restriction it has as the AFR's go from 12.8 to about 10.8 under full load. The biggest difference was going to the Varex muffler itself, as far as Mufflers go, even when fully open it does a decent job of muffling compared to the Magnaflow one.

My only fear is that if the engine is REALLY being pushed, as in 130-150+C oil temps, it may be better off having 10-60 in there than 10-40. There is sorta some logic in going with a thicker oil if you do know it's gonna get hot. That said, there's not a lot of in between where someone will take that as an option before they actually get an oil cooler and get oil temps under control. You should find that with enough cooling it'll be hard to really get up into the 130-150C range anymore, and thus the oil choice tends to be 10-40 or 50 if you really want to go ham/rebuilt engine with more clearances. Realistically though, still don't think there's been a engine failure on this forum that someone can actually claim was bad oil/wrong oil, at least not in the realm of "10-40 or 10-60"?

^--- a very good point. A while ago I updated to an 8 pot/356mm kit. I could never get the fronts to feel like they engaged right, or fully, it felt very squirrelly on hard brakes... especially at the track, where I wanted the brake upgrade for. My rear brake pad usage was considerably more than others, who reported a ratio of 1:3 and I got at best 1:1 front/rear pad changes. I then changed from the R34 GTT BMC to a BM57 BMC from a R33 GTR. The front feel is dramatically different and the car is definitely no longer rear braking. You can do the maths on piston size but it is another thing to consider in regards to a braking system.

Brakes are one of those things where you match them to the activity you are doing... I mean if you have R35 GTR brakes for $0 in your hand, and you can't sell them, then yeah sure get the kit and go for it, assuming you have 19in rims that will clear the brakes... which cost more than $0 (and their tyres) if you do not also already have them. There's other kits to consider that work a bit better than R35 GTR brakes for Rchassis anyway even if you did need them, namely the G4/D2/Attakd kits, Alcon, AP, and CTSV/Commodore Brembos. But if you don't use them/need them then you're really paying money for literally no use..

Unless you know what the temperature actually is (with a sensor) then you don't really know. A 10-60 is thicker than a 10-40 at 100C. So it won't change the temp, but it will change the viscosity, so if you're targeting a specific viscosity it could sort of matter.

I was really hoping GTSBoy would find this thread, because all I can confirm 100% (with no taking anything apart, bolt/unbolting centres) is that it'll go into a 34.....TURBO ?

Fit, physically? Yes ABS though? Your guess is as good as mine. The R34 has 2 ABS sensors one on each stub axle, the R33 has one (or none). Can you just... put the sensor into one of the ports on the stub axles? Maybe? Yes? No? Maybe the cable won't reach/needs to be extended? You'd be a guinea pig in that aspect. Could you pull the center and driveshafts out of my diff, put them into a R33 ABS R200 housing? Uh, maybe? Again not sure. Depends on your confidence and how much you care about ABS as far as I know...

I'm not being egotistical at all, I (and others here) are actually trying to help, but some do find amusement in ideas that never come to fruition, and your post (not in Australia, no work done, trying to get info instead of doing it, mention of low budget) are all indicators of something seen many times before. All you're saying is you want information as to clearances, things to look out for, information people who have done swaps wish they had known before, etc. What you're actually getting is that information. The information is: This is an ill thought out, poor decision that will end in expensive tears and probably won't be worth it. Nothing will fit, and it require extreme skill to pull off, extreme skill to the point where if you had that skill, you would not be asking these types of questions. You came here wanting information, you've got it - you just don't like it. That doesn't necessarily make the information given incorrect. Even if you did make it, and had a 850whp clean example, it is clearly undrivable, the chassis won't put that much power down. Could you make a really torquey 300-350kw making like 7 psi? Sure. Is the amount of work worth it for the level of power that a R32 RWD chassis can realistically support? NO. That car looks like it cost 100K to build..... the current owner talks about how he, the fab shop, bought the car off the customer who couldn't afford to finish it... to which I and probably quite a few people watching that part of the video would have gone 'lolz, typical' because it is typical. Last track day I went to had two BF or FG's handing everyone's asses to them as they blasted around with sequential gearboxes and big power, the big heavy falcons and mustangs and commodores don't actually handle as bad as people may lead you to believe if you put effort in to that side of thing, which is much easier. I have a LS in my skyline. If it exploded and the money fell back into my pocket I would likely use that cash to buy a Mustang.

It also kinda... doesn't matter? It is what it is, its more of a curiosity if anything. The reason the flak gets thrown is quite often you see grand ideas never eventuate and people grow tired of threads that don't go anywhere, written by people who were never going to actually do the thing they claimed they were going to do. Oft referred to as 'school holidays' type of things. The videos of the Barra R32 are worth watching if only for the very end where they show some in-car footage, and the experience of attempting to drive it around looks... hmmmm... shit. If you are going to spend 100,000+ on a car, which that R32 likely owes someone.... I mean buy something else. It'd at least be drivable ?

It's a Nismo center. It came with the Nismo box and Nismo paperwork... but all in Japanese!

Also in regards to this, you can't believe what the net says about weighing cars, or what Ford say, or Nissan say, or GM say. Safe to say my converted car did not weigh what I expected it to weigh either. I am not regretting my LS swap from a 2.8L forged RB. Even though it's worse on performance, cost a ton, etc. Gotta remember you can't go back, no one goes back for that reason. Sunk cost fallacy is a thing. I'm not saying don't do it. It's been done. Just be realistic about it. The words "budget" and "Cheap" and "Engine Conversion" could not be further apart. Ever. How many RB30's are there compared to 2J, 1J, LS, Barra Skylines combined? Why do you think people chose to do that? Etc. There are reasons. Weigh them up, decide what you really want to do, get a budget, commit. Then realise you need to triple that budget.

As someone who has done an engine conversion in a skyline, I assure you a Barra is exponentially more expensive than a RB30. Even if you get the Barra for free. An engine conversion is always the most expensive, hardest option. This is why they are rare. Especially in cars with good solid engines from the factory.

Yep. The engine is only a very very small part of the cost. You would be far better off with a RB30, or a stroked RB30, or if really really serious just start with a billet RB30. Only having 2 tyres to deliver power is going to be a problem with any of the engines, all will easily do way more than the job required.

Sorry Ben At this point I had to settle down for what I assumed it was gonna be a fkin long wait, because while "Wiring" and 'An Exhaust' are two small categories it wasn't exactly two simple small jobs. However the people doing it had done it before, and it was interesting to see how certain things were approached differently/similarily. Luckily thank f**k the general response was "Oh so we actually only need to do wiring and an exhaust... you know how people are..." This got me a considerable discount, so there you go people... be nice! It was 2 months between me towing the car there, and the first start which in the grand scheme of things, actually pretty excellent. Driver side and Passenger side headers. Rest of the exhaust connecting to my original mid muffler. We later added 2 more cats to this, so as it currently sits on my car.. it has 4 cat converters. Two are 100 cell, two are 400 cell. Back to back tests show... 0 kw difference. They also show 0 AFR difference, because they were/are all removable by vbands with some straight pipe. The system is twin 3inch exhausts that merge just before the diff into the 3.5. I can only assume thats why putting cats before this merge has no real restriction that I would care about... Passenger side ---^ ^--- Driver side. There's a slight notch (not visible here) to give clearance to the steering rack. There was plenty of clearance everywhere and I don't know why I was even worried to begin with. I don't know what (if any) difference having asymmetrical headers even does, but it was a too f**king bad this is the only way it's going to work kind of situation! The wiring side I have no photos of, because it was a case of buying a new (i.e not 20 years old) aftermarket standalone loom and having the guys there wire this in/run this in, which wasn't apparently too difficult at all - all of the Skyline gauges are still in place because they did the very smart thing of simply putting the sensors (dash temp gauge, oil pressure etc) into the LS directly. The only things to get wired in was the Speedo using the Jaycar converter box. Post: Conversion note, this is shit. I later changed this to a Dakota Digital converter box (https://www.dakotadigital.com/) which works WAY, WAY, WAY better, as the Jaycar one is laggy, and it works, but only over 40kmh, requires dip switches to configure, vs Bluetooth on a phone.... This is a bit of a problem when you're talking to a VASS Engineer. We also had fun stuff with my Racelogic traction control system, which was wired into the 8 injectors, only for me to eventually figure out I had bought the 6cyl version.. (why would I have ever needed the 8cyl version, said past Gerg), so any time I was turning this system on the thing would just permamently ground 2 injectors causing some MEGA, MEGA rich misfiring and general drive like shit-ness. Later doing some digging we bypassed 2 of the cylinders entirely, (i.e wire it into only 6) and the system now works great.. so.. SO much better than it did with the RB and Turbo. even if it can only cut fuel to 6, it .. never really needs that kind of intervention and driving around on 2cyl is impossible anyway... so 6/8 is great! Once this was all wired in, I attended with what was (hopefully?) a reasonable base tune with the HPTuners MVPI, a working wideband to remove VATS from the ECU and many, many, many, many f**kin hopes and prayers.. ... and the whole thing started up on the 2nd crank with a battery that was 12 months old. ... exactly one year to the day the engine got pulled ... nothing leaked, nothing smelled, everything behaved car was f**king LOUD though, comically loud. Like "lol you cant drive this 5 meters down the street" LOUD. So some laps of the industrial park had to do. Turns out a turbo is a really, really, really effective muffler. Next step: Varex!

The thing about cams is there's really very little "just better everywhere" cam. Consult SME's at Ls1tech.com or give VCM a call and tell them (honestly) what you plan on doing with the car in entirety and they will be able to sell you a kit

That dyno graph will not be for a 5.7, fyi!

Nistune works perfectly fine for the Neo 6 turbo. It does NOT work for the neo 6 NON turbo ecu. You can literally choose any other ECU if you have a manual car though (I,e link, haltech, etc) but Nistune also works.

Depends on how much work you want to do. The NB is basically a better NA. The NB Turbos are a hidden gem but getting pricey now. The NC's are the fastest base, but you'd need a fair amount of work, or FI or a 2.5L swap to really put them ahead of a NB with a turbo (or factory turbo). For max simplicity though, 86 is (again) the answer. If you want something different buy my Renault considering you can tow it ?. Unfortunately I cannot say buy my gf's turbo MX5 as i will be swiftly murdered.