Kinkstaah

Jetski is the obvious choice

The thing about this is … hows it drive? If it's anything other than "great!" all this does is point a finger at whatever is not great. To fix anything all is the same 'fix', i.e tearing engine apart and rebuilding. If engine is great, drive until engine not great. Damage to engine doesn't really result in overall low compression like that. Damage to engine realistically is detonation, which results in holes pistons and the car generally running great until said holes exist, in which engine suddenly drive not great. I guess you could have had excessive fuel washing down the bores for a huge amount of time causing uniform rings not sealing or something, in which case engine not great. Drive car, rebuild if engine not great. Maybe take it easy and save $ until you can confirm engine actually still great. It'll break shortly after you decide this anyway. This is the Skyline Experience.

So at this point it was really starting to get close, but as the engine bay started to fill up there were other considerations to be made, and things like the lower radiator hose were in awkward positions (relative to where they needed to go in the LS). This now bolts to the car, effectively making sure the coolant hose can't move/rub/touch on anything and wear through and really, really, really ruin future-me's day. As far as we could tell.. there was no reason there was a huge cutout on that side of the gearbox. Now there's no hole there and that is about as pretty as it needed to be. Finally an actual use for that putty weld stuff. Needed a throttle cable obviously as the OEM one does not fit as the throttle has moved a sizable distance from factory. A universal one from EFISolutions did the trick, with a nifty little bracket. The Universal Cable has the right fitting to the back of the R34 Skyline pedal. Win Win. Simple pod filter setup is simple. Simple intake pipe (4in) is now black because ewww that rust was not great. Dangerous, dangerous facebook post that appeared right about the time we were fitting the aforementioned intake. Would it ... fit? How good is SAU's view of spatial awareness here. I have this feeling commodore bays are larger there but the space was unused..... No, I didn't buy it....but you know how these things rattle around in the brain! This little guy to sit in my radiator hose to give me my water temp sensors back. Lovely. Now for the oil temp sender, we'll just put that one in the oil block I referred to ages ago, which has fittings for a sensor, as well as the hoses for the oil cooler. Well f**k! Luckily a shorter one exists, was ordered, showed up about a week later after thinking of any other way to mount it. The only other logical place was where oil pressure was going to go... but I wanted the OEM pressure to work... so... f**k. At this point I was getting keen, as it was about time to put oil, fluids in the car now that they would... stay in. I even had the joy of going to Autobarn and simply buying a belt off a shelf because LS1. I also bought new water temp sensors, and various other LS1 sensors "while I'm there" because LS1. Was I needlessly excited about being able to just randomly buy stuff that fits from a random autobarn? Yes. I grumbled though about the price (it was about $120) and i thought "Man, I would have been happier if this belt was like $90 or something..." Lets just put that belt o- F**k! Someone stupid (me) may have forgotten that I had a 25% underdrive balancer. I also found out that this means I need a shorter than standard belt. Luckily Autobarn actually were happy to return the belt, and order in a belt size that I needed. The best part about that was, the replacement belt was about $30 cheaper. Something that DID fit (and also done in a day, for $300) was the modifications to the tailshaft. And just to finish off, time to plumb the catch can in. Close up of un-necessarily silly fittings. What kind of idiot spends $120 on one fitting for a catch can.....and something like $300 in total for just plumbing in the can.... ? At this point we were basically done! Coming to a very very crunch time, as I had booked in the tow truck and the next stage of operations (exhaust, and 'wiring') were ready to take the car tomorrow night. Doing my best to not be a shit bloke, I had wanted the car to be ready for them to ONLY do "wiring" (which seemed like a near impossible, up in the air, magical task) and making the exhaust, to which we were still super skeptical of "how the fk can this actually fit". I even had pre-bought the HPTuners MPVI2 (am now a huge fan of this and its software, relative to Haltech but it could be because it's interfacing with an OEM ecu so it supports... everything...) and credits to unlock the ecu, tune the car, get it running out of the shop once magicians did magician things.....if it actually.... worked.. when the key was attempted to be turned.. But certainly didn't want to add to their confusion and work. So in doing so we were going through a lot of things, "have we done this up, we've plumbed that in, etc" and quite a few of these: BTW the official drink of LS conversions into R34's is officially one shot of coffee patron and one shot of tequila. It's a really good mix. Anyway, during this triple check of things we found out that we had no fuel pressure regulator. At all. The Commo has a regulator in the tank as it's not a return system. The skyline has one on the engine. All our nice braided and measured lines and we had no FPR , at all, at 9pm thursday night when the car is being picked up Friday arvo. F*** One sick day later, and said day spent frantically checking if anyone in Melbourne had a FPR in stock, that we could have, in our hand, right now later, we had a FPR bought, installed, and ready to go!! It was a little sentimental when it left Mikey's place - This may have all come in a flurry of posts and pictures, but the truth of it is this took 10 months and 6 days between first starting to pull the RB out and the car being towed to its next home, the amount of work and time and especially thinking time was immense. As I alluded to before, simply dropping the box and engine in was the easy part. The thinking about what option for XYZ thing and "Where do you want to route this" or "Time to do some research on XYZ" was by far the biggest timesink/drain in doing something like this. .......and there was still much to be done from this point on!

4 speed autos I don't think lock in the commodores...?

My engine is all up and running! This is why I said 250kw (maybe less due to auto lyf, 230?). If you DO decide to put a cam in, make sure that you get a cam that doesn't get max lift beyond what the heads will flow. Thats effectively my current issue with my motor, the cam gets .600 or so lift, and has a ton of duration, but the LS1 heads (mine are OEM, just skimmed for more compression) make their max flow at something like the below As you can see, it tapers off pretty bad, so bigger cams just trade low down power for higher up power, but the heads can't supply them, the cam can have as much duration and as high lift as you want, but there's very little benefit, unless you really work the heads/intake to actually get air into them. Which you can do... but it's well worth having the information and a plan beforehand before $ gets spent.

Head on over to ls1tech.com they have an entire forum dedicated to dyno guesses and bench racing. The real answer is "What mph does it trap?" so... go do that obviously

... not that I'm aware of! Though I appreciate the heads up, as you can imagine I became very hyper aware of any leaks given a lot of things were very new and/or 'recently installed'.. I did in fact get bitten 'later' in regards to OEM GM Ancillaries. "ehhh lets see how they go..."

I think it's more there's nothing to actually work on unless you're literally an engine builder or an exhaust fabricator. And of course, if you are an engine builder then you'd no doubt have fun working on that N/A lyf to extract more powers from it.

In the spirit of 'braided lines rape wallets' Next cab off the rank was moving the oil cooler, because we noticed that a) Don't need the intercooler holes for anything now... b) Oil block is on the passenger side of the engine, not the driver side c) Lines all the way across the engine would be bad. So we moved the cooler from behind the driver side to the passenger side. For general better'ness, and did not have the washer bottle to contend with anymore. ... we may have had to remove a tow point though. But there's still one left... I also test fitted the (18x9 +30) wheels I bought. I was going to get R34 GTR ones, but they were expensive, 2nd hand, and these ones have a bit of a concave fit to them too. I hated my old rims as they were a complete and utter pain to clean, 15 minutes per wheel vs about 4 seconds per wheel. This is also why these new wheels are black. (remember, mildly annoying = must be destroyed) Maths well on my side, these cleared the brakes without a worry. I also decided to change the cabin filter in the Renault (pls buy it) OH YEAH. Now is when things got a bit more fiddly, because it was more fabrication and "how to make things work and not be utterly disgusting". This is a LS. The Red Circled bit is where the coolant lines run to the heater core. In a commodore these are actually on the driver side chassis rail (so the hoses are small). Almost like it was designed for it. But where are they on a r34 GTT? Right on the opposing side of the engine bay. So we had to run two pretty damn long rubber hoses with a bunch of kinks across the entire frigging motor, notwithstanding the fact that there's a manifold on each side of the motor and not a lot of room at all. "Do you really need a heater?" I mean technically the car would be pretty hot anyway, gearbox right under the centre console, warm transmission tunnel, brand new exhaust running under the driver feet, you know bu- YES I REALLY NEED A HEATER! Luckily my friend and partner in crime was always looking for an excuse to buy a pipe bender. How bendy is too bendy? relax everyone that was just testing. Below was the final result: yessssssssssssssss. I was worried about power steering in general, as it's really hard to find any information about the power steering pump used by Nissan, and the power steering pump used by GM. Could I just connect the lines from the Skyline system into the GM power steering pump? Was it that simple? Was the GM pump stronger? Was the Skyline pump stronger? Is that going to break anything? What about that dreaded "Heavy steering" problem with R34's anyway. If you get that from a sensor not being on, or a vac line missing, what about if you have NO sensors at all, and a fkin Commodore pump. Would it be massively light? WHO KNOWS. What I did do was go to Active Power Steering in Dandenong in Vic with the old power steering line and say "Can you make this with the GM fittings on the end?" The top is what I brought them, the bottom is what I received. They included the sensor for the plug, though didn't know either WTF would happen to my steering afterwards. science! And I can't fault them on any of it, because it worked perfectly and cost very very very little ($250ish). Done in a day. And how is the power steering in the end? It turns out that the result definitely works, power steering exists, and the result is that it is really very heavy, but provides a ton of feedback. Undoubtably it's heavier than both a commodore and a R34 but it is a little lighter than R34 in "broken heavy mode" because I can only assume the pump is more grunty. You'd get in it and drive it and be all "Damn man this is heavy" but it actually suits the thing when driving around, as big notchy shifter, heavy clutch, heavy steering, V8 all really works in conjunction with one another, placebo I know, but it makes the whole thing feel "Heavy Duty" and the steering has absolutely NO play in it or any kind of deadzone at all. So all in all, surprisingly cheap to get done, and works with no real side effect!

210 is a really conservative estimate, given it has OTR, and an Exhaust (which is basically all you can do without a cam) it'll be closer to the 250 mark I reckon. V8's seem slower than they are when you're used to turbo life!

I too have an excel spreadsheet, infact I put this V8 conversion all in it, including dates, what i bought, and even compared what I thought I'd spend to what I actually did spend. Then it all became a bit superflous because the parts I did spend on weren't really strictly related to "Conversion only" costs.. like say, the previous post. Also got a bit lucky in some aspects, like a pre-made ready to go refreshed cammed motor. Saved some $ there. ........Provided that engine actually started and was built correctly......... Moving on, more bushings! So now we had the rear of the car, and bushings done (many not pictured on the front arms), we decided to tackle plumbing up the engine side. We left the clutch out for now because it's just going to be easier taking engine in/out/in/out/in/out without a clutch to contend with. But the gearbox looks to have bolted up fine and took up space fine, useful for checking clearances to things. Here was our lovely engine bay,complete with old R34 ancillaries just.. hanging out. Gearbox sorta fitting okay! The commodore shift knob options are horrific, so we ended up cutting this and welding on a literal bolt to the end of it with the same pitch that Nissan shift knobs use, so I can re-use my OEM Nissan/Nismo Shift knob. The gates are tighter than a R33 Gearbox is (maybe the ripshifter does this) but it means that the AUTO housing I had around the shifter now fit better after the conversion than it did before. Another win! Please check page 1 for a description of my abomination of wiring. It was always a really sore point, but now that the motor was gone, we could remove what wasn't needed anymore. The way I thought about it was ..... My Haltech PS2000 ran the Engine, standalone. The LS1 Ecu runs the Engine, standalone. No other functions of the car did not work. AC worked, Power steering worked, dash worked, all electronics worked fine before the conversion. Logically then.. we could remove all of the things the PS2000 was wired to. Logically then.. we could run the LS1 in "Engine only" mode, and everything should be just fine, cause the rest of the car's wiring wasn't changed, because it was never in play to begin with. ... in the past my car has had up to 4-5 ECU's running various things. Anyway, all gone now. So we started pulling wires out. Initially we labelled them, and thought about them, and then eventually came to the conclusion above. "I'm sure it's fine" What's this for? I don't know. I knew then, I don't know now, but I took a photo of it for some reason. With literally all the engine wiring in the bin, we had an empty engine bay to start figuring stuff out in, and first cab off the ranks was the fuel system. The engine we got had some nice return EFI fuel rails on it which was great, because the LS1 uses a returnless system, and the rest of a skyline is .. not a returnless system. so thank f**k for that, basically, but we had to plumb it all in. We decided to cut these lines shorter, to angle them up against the firewall as much as possible. We didn't know how the f**k people ran a manifold/exhaust through here but we sure weren't going to be the guys that didn't make every effort to try and make someone's future life easier. People notice that shit! (also I almost melted my car to the ground due to wiring issues and heat in the past. This is fuel... and a manifold, what could go wrong?) Ah yes the first braided line, the one that started it all. The stock ECU can handle flex fuel. I had a flex fuel sensor. I had to mount it somewhere. So this: + This = This It seems I don't have too many photos of the fuel lines, they went through many, many revisions. With the engine in again, I had to think about cooling, as a clutch fan isn't feasible/doesn't exist. Luckily the LS is setup for thermos from the factory as it has them, and luckily, the AU falcon's thermos match up nearly perfectly with a R34 radiator, as well as pushing a LOT of air. "but isn't the LS huge?" A lot of people are still suprised by how small it is in the engine bay. .... so much room for activities! You can't see it in this photo, but you can actually fit your entire arm down behind the motor and grab the bellhousing too, so my e85 sensor was not in peril. Radiator and Thermos in! Sometimes things just fkin work out! sometimes.

It's funny, because as of now the car is done, the only things I'd do to improve it is add widebody (which i own) to fit wider tyres, and maybe get a set of heads for more NA power (which realistically looks like ... maybe? about 30-40rwkw). However this would probably cost about ~15K to complete. If my car spontaneously caught fire or was stolen, I could buy a new Mustang with less than 15K Difference. Did I mention new Mustangs when tuned make about the Same KW as my motor with the heads I referred to above? Did I also mention that Mustangs can fit a 315's on all 4/square setup with the OEM Body? Did I mention that the new 10 speed auto is pretty amazeballs for keeping in said power range? Have a look Here to find "Mustang Performance Pack 2" (which is a slower manual), but has aforementioned tyre fitment. It's 48th on the list. If you CBF, here's a snippet: So.. I am super happy with how it is, as is... but would I recommend what I have done for someone else? lol no. More history to follow 'soon'

I'm gonna be that guy... why get suede on the parts you don't touch? The idea of alcantara is when using gloves you get better grip on the wheel.... ?

So at this point car looked like this: I had an engine, and gearbox, and clutch, all I needed was a loom, and that part was super easy. (says the internet) So things must be coming along great, fast, right? No. Would it be fast if you just wanted to put the engine in, wire up some kind of loom, not really care about much else, get a tailshaft and manifolds fabbed up and go do skids? Yes. Did I do this? No. I said a couple of posts ago that “While I’m here….” Was always going to be an element, and now is when it began to strike in full force, because while I also bought one shipment, there was actually 2, and there was scope shift. It went from “Hey lets just change the engine” To: Brain: Pssst… remember how this was all to remove annoying, worrysome things with this car? Me: ……. Yes? “Lets remove anything that caused annoyance in this car, EVER!” If I’d ever rolled my eyes, and dealt with it, or had to make an excuse for it, or “I’ll get around to it” it now became a prime target. There were quite a few of these things. Like in every car. Even yours. Don't you judge me! Given I needed the car to be engineered, I had a HICAS problem to deal with. I couldn’t use rose jointed arms/eliminator kit, and the stock ones had a lot of play in them, plus, they were f**kin shit, and already removed from my original subframe as they were quite shit. So were the arms i had replaced them with. So was my diff. All worked, pretty okay, and good enough for 99% of people, but sadly in this context, and the only context, I am the 1%. It was all bad. It was worse than bad, it was mildly annoying. So what’s a boy to do? Lets convert the subframe instead to a NON HICAS one. …..while it’s out, lets replace EVERY bush in it. …..while it’s out, lets weld in some subframe reinforcement plates, I mean if S15's crack them, surely a v8 will? (not that skylines seem to..) …..while it’s out, lets get my “1.5 way” Diff rebuilt, as this was clunking and being an asshole beyond what other diffs were doing. …..while it’s out, lets remove the shocks and put some stock suspension back in. It’ll be needed for the engineer anyway, and I wanted to rebuild my shocks because they were leaking, and slightly annoying. ……and did I need a re-valve? I went from 5-4 springs to 8-6 in the past..... I also changed the engine. So maybe I need a re-valve. In any case it was a question, and it could not be suffered to live. Pictured: Annoyance ^----ahhhh, refreshing! Also, while I’m buying bushes.. ….why not buy every bush? For the whole car? The front too? ….lets remove the front subframe while we’re at it, because.. there’s no engine there.. ……so maybe we should clean up the engine bay …maybe we should create fuel lines/adapt to the 34’s fuel system …. maybe we shouldn’t use rubber lines.. maybe we should have braided hose and fittings for fuel the whole way.. ….maybe we should get that e85 flex sensor all plumbed in.. before the car is going….instead of later …maybe we should have braided lines for the catch can too… while we're buying lines... …maybe we should have custom hard lines made for the coolant lines to the heater….. while we're doing lines.. …maybe we should relocate the oil cooler….... while we're buying lines.. ….maybe I should get around to cleaning up the engine bay… This was also the bulk of the cost, and a LARGE, LARGE, LARGE % of the head f**ks. We actually decided to do this in sections, i.e the rear of the car first, because it had 0 thinking to do, then we planned on doing the Engine bay part of things, then the middle/gearbox/clutch part last. The plan was to have everything done to the point where the only thing the car would need was wiring, and an exhaust fabricated up. Also, anyone want to buy my diff? This is where I spent $800 (receipts available!) to have my diff totally taken apart and rebuilt, and told nothing was wrong with my somewhat-clunkier-than-others 1.5 way diff, and that's just how they are. How they are is a 2 way diff, which was somehow missed in that $800 adventure. I'll leave it to your imagination how that diff drove with the new/refreshed/reinforced subframe.

Yep. Nismo diff is the answer here. The N/A R34 GTT has the same "stuff" as a S15, or at least a S15 helical bolts into a R34 N/A perfectly. Luckily, a lot of people drift S15's so options are plentiful.

We actually had to uh... mould the lip a bit with a hammer and cut a section out/fold it out of the way. There isn't *quite* enough slack in the wires to move the loom onto of it unlike a S chassis where you can. Luckily you don't need to cut wires. When you see it in front of you its fairly easy to see which pars of the lip need some attention to get it to go over the top, but it can (and should) be done. re: Above wheels, 18x9 +32 will fit fine on the front, with a 255. With a 265 you will be real (REAL) close to touching the upright arm with the outer edge of your tyre. HOWEVER a 255/40 is a larger rolling diameter than a 265/35. Beware of your loom ?

86's are just awesome, perfect starter car and realistically, perfect "Enough car anyone needs" with a mild boost application. It's the middle part of car progression where people go BUT I WANT POWEERRRRRRR in the middle they suck at. Then they grow up and realise the power was never always the fun part. (it is fun to a degree though). (mx5 factory turbos are awesome though). I could have SWORN I took photos of how awesome those headers fit (in addition to them being fkin not flat) and I have dug them up. Yeah definitely 'block hugger' manifolds alright.. I am not sure what these do fit in, but it sure as hell isn't gonna be this. Even if they were flat. And this was on the "Easy" side without a steering rack to contend with! Pictured above, my reaction to looking at that fantastic fitment. I will write up other random shit soon enough now that I am looking for visual evidence.

265's can fit. I have them all round on an 18x9 +30. They will pretty much only fit in that space. I also had them in the past with 18x9.5 +27 (because the tyre was mounted in the same spot, centrally speaking). Mind you, you will want to roll guards, make sure your liners are absolutely clipped in, and potentially relocate the driver side loom under the right/driver side front quarter panel, because you can/will rub through it if your springs aren't ultra rock hard. Will your life be a hell of a lot easier with a 8.5in rim and a 255? Yes.

'little' evo. You can plumb an exhaust in if you actually plumb it further back (and not lose power), but realistically when you've gone to the degree most people have in these kind of builds it's venting to atmosphere and everyone prefers it that way.

Won't fit. It'll almost fit. It may fit removing liners, mutilating guards and running camber that will make you hate your 265's.

do it and post results

Yes, this guy is in Vic. And yes, the OP is in QLD. However its the same scenario, with much the same situation with much the same enforcement, with very similar police having the same thoughts with the same powers and using similar judgement. The link you linked Update: Is it still legal to ride?'s entire argument seems to be..... "Well they didn't say we COULDN'T do it" ....which is pretty much THE peak loophole quote of all time, in any scenario. It is obvious to a reasonable person that when they say bike for exercise, they clearly mean a push bike around the block in similar vein of 'ESSENTIAL' exercise, i.e walking a dog around a block. I feel if you get in to this discussion while on the back of a motorbike to a police officer, at best you'll get a warning, at worst you will be dealing with $1600 fine. do it and post results

^--- that is absolutely looking for loopholes. Logically though, going for a drive in a car and returning to my home, never getting out is 0 risk at all. However, police can't confirm that and statistically it is rare. Being pulled over mysteriously 150km from your home going nowhere near there (i.e all reasons you're allowed to be out are nowhere near your listed address) is almost certainly going to be fine time. All of the exercise has been along the lines of "A walk/job around the block you live/walking pets in said area", the intent of the law is clear and the article mentioned is clearly looking for loopholes "oh It doesnt say I CANT do that" including a quote from an official saying "Stop looking for loopholes". Realistically the guidance is... "do you NEED to?" if not = banned.

… could I also get this? The VZ one is a fkin DVD and near impossible to find. I have the VY Series 1 one, but they... change stuff.

Is it exactly the same scenario when the car leans out? Not only between 60-80% throttle? Not only under 90C water temp? Not only when Sensor X is doing Y? It could be tune related. Putting it on a dyno after checking everything mechanical (and allowing yourself to see things like fuel pressure while the car is on the dyno under load) will help. If you DO have fuel pressure, but running lean...