Kinkstaah

These are the ones that I melted. You need the FPR kit, nothing else will work. :p

I mean, if the motor stock and you have a boost leak, (like a pipe has come off etc) you will barely able to move. I don't mean "drives like a 2002 corolla" I mean barely able to move the car at *all* That gauge is (mostly) normal. I say mostly because with a stock turbo and stock everything working normally, you'll hit that green line very easily/quickly. It's not like it will only finally reach there at 5000+RPM after slowly building to it. It it *does* behave like that, then you have a leak. If it doesn't, and the boost gauge is more or less pinned there any time you're on the throttle from ~2000rpm upward, then this is normal - the cars run 7psi stock. That's right between 0 and +1KG/CM (which is 14.22psi) If it's a manual, they do 0-100 back in 1998 of about ~6.1s to 100. The autos are about 7s.

Lol. I mean. Yeah you should hear some degree of turbo sound, which is exactly what you think it sounds like, compressed air moving places. Are you actually making boost? Your car has a boost gauge. Is it indicating it is building boost, or not?

FYI. I have a R34, not a R33. I noticed that the stock gauge would be middle at 104C. Then completely pegged to H at 105. It moves gradually between middle and hot, it physically takes time to move. (same as it takes time to move from cold to OK) It only has 3 actual settings, "Too cold", "OK" and "Too Hot"

It sounds like a misfire. RB's go surprisingly good on 5cyl. The easiest way is to have your car idling, and unplug a coilpack or an injector and see/find which one doesn't make the sound change. That's your problem cylinder. The consult cable means you don't have to actually unplug stuff, can turn it off electronically.

Hey OP, wheels look good, previous owner had the right idea, drive and enjoy car

I also found that entirely dead ones with maybe a little cord showing sound exactly as loud as brand new ones.

I recently got 15,000km from my RS4's! And got a new set recently. By recently, it... was just over a year ago now. Shut up, I have reasons as to why these tyres are still near new. Anyway with regards to the previous ones, pressure them up. Drive them around gently on the street at ~36 psi and they do tend to last longer. I don't know how many track days I had them for, I want to say a couple but obviously that varies a significant amount for a lot of variables. A friend got 35,000-40,000KM out of his AD08R (!??!?!?!) and his tip was to raise the pressures on them for road driving which helped in my case, but obviously the other big factor is driving with the fuel economy mindset of someone who runs higher pressures in your tyres too.

TBF, I had 9.5 +27 on the front (and rear) of a 34 which most consider to be much the same as a R33. It fits exactly where a 18x9+30 otherwise would, if you run the same size tyre on either rim. I had a 265 on the front of mine and the tyre sidewall on the inner is the limiting factor. I ran like -1.5 camber. I am putting 9.5 +30 into the 'feasible' camp. Will still be 18mm inset from the 18x9.5 +12 on the back though. I suspect one of these wheels is not the sizes in the original post, or it looks wonky. Pictures plz, OP, I must know lol

When the going gets weird... measure!

The offset doesn't really have anything to do with dish directly. I mean it kind of does but it also doesn't, it's only tangenial. The offset is purely how much offset (get it) the mounting face is from the CENTER of the width of the rim. I.e, the mounting face would be directly in the middle of the 9.5inches if it was a 18x9.5 ET0 rim. Given it is a +12 rim, the mounting face is 12mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). Your fronts are +30, so the mounting face is 30mm further away from the center (to the outside of the car). I would wager this doesn't look right, because most skylines generally have the same with guards front to back. So I'd think your fronts look significantly more sunken in than your rears. I'd wager by about 18mm, or so.

Yes! Finally, now we're talking

I want someone to make side skirt extensions. But by 'extensions' I mean running from one side of the car to the other, forming a flat undertray, maybe one that runs to the front and rear of the car too

Yeah, I should state I have no overheating issues except when it's sitting idle, with AC on (and only then) and only on VERY VERY hot days. And it stops if I turn the AC off. But I put a lot of effort into making this thing run like a regular car, I want the AC to work when I want it to work. I need no excuses as to why I should make some other thing a daily! And tbf, the thing does heat soak pretty bad, not much I can do with the exhaust running under the driver's seat, you can feel it through your shoes/pants when you step out of the car, too. Point being, aircon inside the cabin is on pretty frequently. I did think about removing heater hoses to simplify the engine bay/back of engine because I cannot imagine a scenario where I ever need a heater. Except for defogging, but doesn't AC do that, not the heater? So in this very limited situation, raising the rear could work, purely to let hot air out. I've ran the car at the track on a 35C day with the aircon on, and it doesn't overheat in that scenario so that's why I thought it was due to heat soak/heat buildup and not just general overheating under load. I had previously tried shrouding the radiator, changing my balancer to a non-underdriven one to spin the water pump more at idle too, and installing two more thermo fans on the other side of the radiator/AC condenser. (So I have 4 now, 2 pushing, 2 pulling from the rad) neither really helped in this very limited scenario. I don't know if the vents will, but visually seeing the heat steaming out of them did give me hope, not to mention the temperature of the vents was MUCH hotter than other areas of the bonnet. Enough that one of the paint guys was unsure as to whether paint would stick to it long term. I'm sure that will be fine also.

Here's the gore: The above photo was me literally at a paint shop thinking "ah, I can't get it painted like that" Below is the left side vs right side taken randomly with phone. This is after. I now have a GTR strut brace because the vents actually foul on the GTT strut brace. They also look like they very nearly foul on the GTR strut brace, but it's like 35-40mm lower so that isn't possible, lol. I will say this though, the vents let out a LOT of heat when the thing is idling. You could literally see the heat haze in a wall just flowing out of the vents when the car was parked, so the theory about it letting under bonnet temps out when stopped is sound. Though if I had my time again, I would have just cut these out (or just bought GTR bits and cut these out of a GTR bonnet). This photo *before* the whole lot was covered with Carbuilders insulation mat which probably didn't help. Would have looked similar to the below, but in the pattern of the above. I'm sure you understand. Or I could have just raised the back of the bonnet. TL;DR

I said this! After asking around and looking for second shops, I did find one. I have it there, paid a deposit. Went in to drop off a bracket to fix my reo bar which had a bracket cut off a decade ago to fit a blitz FMIC. (the brackets need to be replaced/put back on to stop the headlights sagging from the bonnet, which is a whole thing, a replacement reo is $1000+) But anyway yes. I saw it in a workshop with a bunch of other cars after it's been there a week. For bonus points, it's clearly been moved outside during the week as they make room in the shop. I know this because we've had rain, and rain on untreated newly shaped and raw metal has a predictable result. They said to give it 6-8 weeks but don't quote him on that. There's a fair amount to do and there's a lot of cars there, so my prediction is about 52 weeks. I'm sure it'll be fine.

Because people like Gregged stories, I'll elaborate. I ordered a front end, being a GTR conversion front bumper, CF hood, to go with my URAS wider front fenders. These took a good ~year to arrive. They had arrived when I dropped them off at paint shop 1 and are in that large pile of car panels. Unfortunately _some_ of it didn't fit very well/at all, though to be more accurate it's safer to say it didn't fit with each other. A lot of GTR conversion parts, really are just GTR parts. GTR fiber replicas need GTR guards. Because GTR fenders flare out more than GTT fenders. Even GTT fenders that are flared out by the same amount GTR fenders are. The GTR conversion/GTR bumper I was sold is no longer for sale as the company involved recognized the issues with it and refunded it, beyond this situation. The bonnet and bumper gap was... this. They then sent a redesigned bumper, but this still had the issue with the width, and then advised me I needed GTR bracketry to fit this conversion bumper. Which, to me, is kind of crazy - Because if you need a GTR Reo, headlight supports, headlight brackets, and the mounting bracket (with the additional plate with the rubber strip) in order to mount your 'conversion' bumper, the bumper itself is just a GTR bumper. And when I mentioned this, not to mention the time and hassle of sending bumpers back and a forth and dealing with a busy company, I was able to make the statement that this is not made to fit a GTT at all, at least in the sense that you can't use any of it with any other GTT part. The bonnet worked, but without a bumper that can actually fit it was effectively just a GTR bonnet with GTT hinge points and latch points. Not much use if I can't use a bumper. Why would I (or anyone) buy a fibreglass GTR replica that costs more than an OEM plastic GTR bar, if I need to use all the GTR hardware to mount it anyway? Funny enough I had test fitted everything else except these bits. Obviously I should have. I saw pictures of things fitted but everything's not quite the same and unmentioned the fact people have made extra brackets or something to pull on these fibreglass bumpers. With the GTR brackets we were able to force the "second" bumper they sent us, but you shouldn't need two big guys forcing a fibreglass bumper over mounts you need to drill to get it to fit, using a lot of tension and a lot of force, the whole thing was completely taut and felt spring loaded to explode at any moment. In any case after all this faffing about, I eventually spoke to someone else at this company who advised I should have been sent the correct parts to begin with given they pulled up all my communications with what I had, what I wanted, what parts I was using, etc. But by this time the car had been sitting at Shop 1 for quite some time now and they didn't really just want to paint the rest of the car from A pillar back while this was all sorted out. I got a full refund and honestly everyone involved was perfectly nice and easy to deal with once I could get ahold of them, though it did need a bit of 'chasing' as you kinda expect. So then I had a stock front end again, and could have just fit the URAS fibreglass fronts and used an OEM front bumper and OEM hood and called it a day. But did I do that? No, I am retarded. Because I was paranoid about Mr Police in the future sticking a magnet to my front guards, or my bonnet and realising they weren't metal, I followed up on a tip I got from a friend who got his metal guards widened out. I had wanted to do this 'in the future some day' but thought I may as well just do this 'now' given I'd be driving around all paranoid about my fibreglass front fenders on my otherwise legal and engineered car. SO ANYWAY I engaged these people during the time I was returning the original body parts, so the car was at Shop 1 with no front end at all, not being fitted or being painted A pillar back even though I was more than happy to just get the front panels painted separately when they existed. (I understand the reasoning for not wanting this, but I was just trying to save time). And you guessed it, the metalbenders took much longer than they said they would take, and Shop 1 man had a medical issue where he had to close the shop indefinitely (legitimately). So even though I had to return a bunch of stuff, and a car sat around for months with no work being done on it, there's no actual bad blood there, so I don't want to name names and say "SHOP X SUCKS" just... do your diligence. Metalbender place returned my Bonnet and Guards to me eventually, which was when I realised THIS: Is going to make my life hard again, because having wider metal guards doesn't make much benefit if the actual point it hits is the connection between the bumper and the guard. Which is why Nissan flared it out, ostensibly. With regards to the bonnet, I needed vents in the first place because the car likes to overheat due to heat soak on 40C days with the aircon on, if the car has been driven for more than like 30 minutes. Only with the aircon on, only on days that hot, only when sitting, and only after ~30 minutes. So the logic behind it all was to cut vents in. I had originally thought to just the flat pieces out (not the webbing!) and put mesh in there, which would have worked fine. Then talking to the metalbenders I was convinced this was a bit agricultural and water would get in. STUPID EVERYONE INVOLVED didn't think of simply using a plastic engine cover on the engine, and we started talking about vent design and rain gutters instead. There was also the issue of while the guards both fit what I asked for, which was: "Can you replicate these URAS Fibreglass flares on these stock metal guards by the same distance, or maybe +10mm wider?" ..the issue was the guards weren't the same as one another when the job was done. Enough that when I fit them and went to paint places, the overriding feeling was "I can't get it painted while they're like that". So, I Karen'ed and they offered to fix them up to get them symmetrical again after I drove back and showed them, and we did the whole lean back from a few meters in front of the car, and: "Oh yeah" "ahhh yeah".. "Ahh, ... yeah, yeah nah yeah" ... and I then took them off and delivered them. I have it all back now, and while the guards are better they're still not symmetrical, and I'm paranoid about a tiny bit of webbing actually being cut with the vents installed, and only slightly remorseful about the fact that METALBENDING WAS REALLY EXPENSIVE, and it would have been cheaper to simply buy all of the Nissan OEM pieces, including $2200 aluminium bonnets, and $2000 guard sets and OEM plastic bumpers and get it done that way. YOU ARE WARNED. also, anyone wanna buy my GTR brackets between the headlights? Useful for someone doing this conversion and they cost about $1000 cause you didn't want to use/mark up/damage the fibreglass replica the company sold you to make their stuff fit (it won't fit).

Injectors are told by the ECU to open for certain amounts of time. If the injector flows more fuel, but the ECU doesn't know this, and is told to open for the same amount of time as the stock, smaller injector, then the larger injector will flow too much fuel/more fuel than the engine/ecu is expecting. You absolutely need an ECU to control injectors. You don't need a tune for a fuel pump (because your fuel pressure should remain the same assuming the regulator works). You don't need a tune for an exhaust (the parameters for fuel and air going into the motor have not changed much) You don't need a tune for an Intercooler (the parameters for fuel and air going into the motor have not changed much, it's just the air is cooler) Yes, forum regulars, I know that you really should get a tune for an Exhaust, and Intercooler. These *will* affect the tune, but the stock tune does have some leniency to it with stock AFM and Injectors. Intercooler and Exhaust will fit within this wiggle room. So will running a boost tee to about 10psi, which is a very old way of increasing boost which is not worth doing in 2024. The ECU is vital. It runs the whole show. Most people change injectors and ECU at the same time for this reason. Some people load base maps on some ECU's that have ballpark figures for injector sizing. Sometimes injector manufacturers are really great and tell you what parameters to input into your ECU, which is something you can do with your new shiny ECU. For a beginner, this may enable you to drive to the tuner to have an expert do the rest. Otherwise, you're installing injectors and ECU at home, and paying for a tow to a dyno. Or, you take the car to a workshop (be happy to travel across Melb for the right shop) and someone who knows RB will be able to source/provide/install injectors and tune the car at the same time if they have a dyno or access to a dyno. The reason so many people DIY things here is because finding said workshop is hard, expensive, potentially getting things wrong with miscommunication/other.

You really can't adjust anything fuel or air related without the ECU being told about the additional air or fuel. You _can_ do a few things for efficiency, or cooling, which have knock on effects for power. I.e exhaust, intercooler, intake, but that's about it. Anything else needs an ECU for the engine to actually *know* about the changes that have been made to... uh, the engine.

I had this issue with the (presumably older) Nismo "2" way, or rather the "1.5" way. They advertise a "1" way (the 1 way is the one you want. Check Nismo's documentation!!). Anyway. You want something with less locking on deceleration. I can confirm that with a stiffly bushed car, it feels like full on violent axle tramp at 1-10kmh 100% of the time, not fun chirps which I have experienced in other cars.

You could get TPS via ODB2 and is one of those 'useless' gauges that I have on Torque. When I tune, I pretty much just drive the car and look back on how far out the fuel map is in %, then trim the base map to suit after driving around for ~30 minutes or an hour. Hell, the last time I did the datalog for the fuel map I did a 30 minute track session with a laptop secured in the footwell I had a Haltech before I went LS and I absolutely loved it too. The real kicker is that Haltech and other modern ECU's can actually *do* things with the signals from gauges, like say - Shut your engine down if oil pressure is too low, or oil temperature is too hot, or if AFR is too lean or literally any configurable thing. To me that's the real big advantage over a stock ECU. But it can also do all of that no matter what gauge or cluster setup that you happen to have I was really responding to this though. 99% of people are between where the OP is and where us tragics are. With a R34, those gauges are already there in the GTT. What are you gonna do with them? May as well make them work/be useful as in stock form they are pretty useless. (volt meter, oil temp only usable with OEM sensor, and a strange boost gauge that caps out at any boosted amount) So may as well swap them out for something functional/usable/tied into an ECU/provide relevant data, and there's plenty of space to do so.

Yea but my dash looks like this. I'm not saying the haltech dashes are bad, because I too like all that stuff. But I can't make any compelling argument as to a single reason I actually require it, not to mention one also needs to buy a haltech ECU whereas the setup I have will work with any ECU. And tbh, road tuning should be datalogging with trims and all that. You know it to be true. The whole point is at some point you can set it and forget it. That said, I often commute around with a laptop checking how close my tune is when the weather changes and all sorts of tinkery stuff too. And I can't even justify a digital gauge. There's plenty scope to still use external gauges and save multiple thousands of dollars for literally no benefit. The main sensors are pretty available all the time. And for those that aren't, I can use Torque to see... I dunno. IAT? Quarter mile times? I can also use lap timing on it too (and so could anybody). That's quite a lot of functionality for stock slots, without needing a digital dash, the ECU to run it, and a LOT of patience. Also if you want to get crazy, Haltech do a IC7/ODB2 slot for the R34 MFD space, replacing the stock triple gauge cluster with that. And I still can't justify the $ :p

Well, the R34 has 3 big gauges in the center already that aren't of a great amount of use... And you can get dual gauges like this: https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/10-color-digital-dual-pressure-gauge/ https://www.glowshiftdirect.com/10-color-digital-celsius-dual-temperature-gauge/ Throw an AFR/Wideband in there too, and well, save yourself thousands and thousands of dollars. There's also this: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/313586179215 which will give you a gauge in the ash tray slot which is otherwise useless and you can arrange your dual gauges, wideband, boost gauges or whatever else you dream of :p My head unit also uses Torque which can read ODB2 and customize any possible ODB2 channel (tho this is not R34 natively available)

(it went very gregged). The car has been dropped off again, at a second shop, last week. Will see how it goes, again, I suppose!

I dunno man it seems pretty much always like this.