Kinkstaah

Hi Folks You may be able to search for my rumblings and complaints over the years how my 1.5 way was a bit clunkier around town than your regular 1.5 way and how I wanted to fix that to no avail. Upon finding a unicorn R34 Helical, this diff is now for sale. As I know people would want to see the center before buying a rando diff, I took the cover off and found that it was actually a fkin 2 way diff the entire time. It was recently rebuilt from scratch to try and find "the problem" and of course there was none, which was... quite a lot of money not so well spent on my behalf, but hey this diff has been entirely rebuilt for your pleasure. Will bolt and plug in directly to your R34. I can confirm this thing locks up HARD in both Accel and Decel scenarios. You could use it on the street, I did for quite a long time it turns out and I did not die. However, I wouldn't recommend it for a daily. $1200 obo. Pickup strongly preferred!

This kind of explains the "Why do you really, really, really want a R34 front end?" question that many would be asking here.

I think they are good motors, it's just the case of blood from a stone. Any motor being asked to go 200-300% of what it left the factory with is, beyond any kind of reasonable expectation. A RB25DET making 260rwkw with all the right mods for track work and breathing would make for a shitty dyno graph on the internet, but last way, way, way longer, and that's still asking 170% of what it left the factory with!

HIlarious misfortunes aside, it's obviously not been all bad. Occasionally the car runs, and joyous occasions do actually occur! Uhhhh..... Greg... your car is blowing smoke at the track..... Catch can was full, problem went away.... and lets be honest, the IACV motor died (they die, pinning open) and I had a misfire problem meaning I had to run 9psi of boost maximum but look honestly at this stage of my car ownership I was at the track having fun and I put them firmly in to the WIN category! I put this photo in, my mental note thinking this was a time we all went out cruising the Great Ocean road and staying a few days in Warnambool..... only to be confronted by the fact I didn't bring the R34 with us on this trip because it was broken/off the road/conversion going on/something. Which my mind totally had no recollection of. This is probably pretty good allegory of my R34 ownership..Also MX5 Turbos are just awesome, no she doesn't let me mod it more than it currently is. I swear we did do the great alpine road with the Skyline, as I distinctly being unable to really spin the rears at the top of Hotham through the very high country noting it made suprisingly big difference, and following supercharged cars from 1979 with no cat generates one hell of a headache. Best track mod is definitely this though!! Yes, she is cooking sausages at the track day for everyone because "The canteen is no good, and boys don't eat they get up early, grab a coffee at 4am out the door and run on adrenaline and caffiene the whole day and that's no good!! People need food so they can stay focused and have fun on the track!!" My best drag run ever was an 11.9 with the old setup, which just left a ton of everything on the table, and that 11.9 was at like 103mph because an intercooler came off at about half track. And after every failed run (which was every run, due to intercooler pipes) a certain someone was under the car fixing it, putting hose clamps back together and generally providing relentless encouragement while I yarned on chatting to other random people at heatcote. I think most people would have happily struggled to get into the 11's but had the pitlane support than run a 10 and be there on their own, so as many things that have gone wrong, I know some really good people to make it all worth it. After all, all car stories are really just people stories. In any case the car has gone from: This: To this: (this made 430kw through an auto in this setup!) To.... this: To... this!: Actual cert number and VASS number removed for obbious reasons but ye. At some point I will write up (with pictures) the very long process in the above!

You did! But I assure that ARD alternator I bought had very little use, definitely didn't even come into the car at all in the timeframe all these stories are referencing. Did I ever mention I used to live in the USA, and was married over there, and that my now my ex-wife is born and raised in Louisiana, which has absolutely no significance for Voodoo curses at all. (I bought the car right when I landed in Australia, entirely unrelated)

I will eventually get to this but I wired my Varex into the steering wheel controls on a R34 GTT. The key is don't wire it into full closed or full open, wire something with a momentary switch, so wire something that has the same functions the buttons do. I.e "opening" when being held in a certain direction, and "Closing" when being held in the other. When not pressing any button, no option is selected and nothing is burned out. video-1560494721.mp4

I think in my case it wasn't actually the blanket itself, but oil residue/something along those lines, installed with dirty hands etc and it was that that got it all going. it was legit fire and flames and required a fire extinguisher, details in my build "thread" lol. So this may not apply to you, if you put it on right, clean, with new gloves, etc. I will say that the blanket crumbles into dust really satisfyingly if it does catch on fire, though.

Before Existed, running larger wires for a single pump (that kept f**king melting) was an issue. You could run the wires, but sealing the lid was another story. The rear seats of my car were off limits for most people due to the fumes. But it beat breaking down/lines melting/catching on fire. Just remember, no smoking. In efforts to make it seal I tried approximately every epoxy known to man to try and seal around the wires running through the lid. All failed, some better than others. Some were good vs Petrol, but died when I put Ethanol in. Some were good against Ethanol, but died under Petrol. It was really quite crazy. Once I used superglue, and glued my fingers together on one hand, like a claw. I did not own Acetone, so I drove 45 minutes across town to where my gf's lovely bestie had acetone handy to un-glue my hand. Unfortunately one of the things I used was superglue. This isn't a 34, but you can see where this is leading, superglue in this area didn't quite stay where I had hoped, and I managed to get Superglue, a really, really strong, industrial grade super glue in the threads between the black locking cap and the fuel bulkhead. And quite a lot, too. Eventually it was freed... at 3am.. on a Sunday/Monday morning, where yes of course I needed the car to get home. This music was actually playing on the radio at 3am on PBS. At this point we were more than happy to embrace any spiritual deity of any nature for any kind of blessing at all, to seal the holy heatshrink. Monk.mp4

I don't have photos for this, but I spoke to my mate about this thread and we got to reminiscing over other things that broke, but no photos were available, so it's gonna a handful of other scenarios where things may not have gone as planned. STORY TIME ----- Back in the day, on the original N/A car had a pretty gnarly diff whine. I mean it was LOUD. Because it was 2007 and we didn't know shit, there was a rumour that you could put a banana in a diff (presumably to thicken up the oil?) to see if this would aid anything and if it did, could give an idea as to what was wrong? In short, this does nothing. But yes, some hours were spent stuffing bananas into the diff, which actually isn't very easy at all, and you have to ask yourself questions like "Do they mean the skin? Do they ONLY mean the skin? What about the actual... banana part? Both? Only the banana part?" The internet was silent on this. ----- My car had a running joke/test where I would only be happy with it if it managed to get to the top of Mt Donna Buang (victoria) without a problem* A problem being some reason I had to pull over or noticed something was wrong. Realistically this meant boost hoses coming off, breaking, some weird noise, something overheating, etc. In any case the scorecard was up to 7-0 (in the mountain's favour, including a couple of serious breakages.. one of the tow pics is on the way back), but the very first time the car actually made it up, I was understandably jubilant until there was smoke, I was dismissive, but My lovely girlfriend wasn't, and asked me to pop the bonnet to at least check it out. When I did so, I opened the bonnet to find my turbo blanket literally on fire. So Lexi run to the passenger door, pulled out the fire extinguisher and doused the whole engine bay with a fire extinguisher. This is a normal thing, totally happens to everyone, all the time with cars, not sure why its worth a mention but someone told me I should mention it. I even sold the gear later as "only been on fire once", because it is REALLY HARD to try and remove fire extinguisher residue! ----- I mentioned that I had gone through many fuel pumps earlier, and some of these melted due to wiring (aka outside barwon prison) whereas others actually simply died, ground themselves in to dust. I went through a phase where I was pulling out the pump, cleaning the filter on it outside of the car and putting it back in once every 2 weeks or so, and it was clogged with shit. Every time. And the bizarre thing is it kept happening, even though the fuel tank had cracked and been replaced.. twice!. When this happened for the third tank we decided to pull the tank out and clean it, which involved us basically filling the tank with kerosene and other caustic liquids, and shaking the tank above our heads for 30 minutes each, alternating with this superbrew of hell inside it in the hopes of breaking things down. When we eventually emptied this we found about 50 leaves in the tank as well as a whole bunch of gunk. But not being people for half measures, we forcibly flushed kerosene through the fuel lines with a high pressure washer, to really, really, absolutely, clean them out. This actually worked, as the foulness that came out of them was beyond belief. We then eventaully put the car back together, and relaxed feeling happy we had finally solved that one. Except what we didn't know is how desensitised we'd become to the smell of Kerosene through dealing with it the whole day/weekend. I drove the car to work on Monday in an underground parking lot for work. Half way through the day the site got evacuated due to property services investigating the horrific smell coming from the car - The kerosense was so strong that you could smell it from a good 30m away from the actual car, enough that you couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from. So yeah I didn't let anyone smoke near my car for quite some time. ----- One weekend, work was going on with cars in general, as was the tradition. Being in Frankston, fish and chip shops are abundant, and a great source of nutrients for hungry guys working on cars until well after they realised they actually needed something to eat. As said car was finally working, with us finishing whatever it is we were fixing/doing we decided to take the 34. I let my mate drive, it's not his car (his car could have a whole thread, much cooler than mine!) because hey why not. 3 minutes into the 10 minute trip... the car alarm starts going off, while driving at 60/80kmh in the middle of Seaford/Frankston area. Horns, sirens, flashing headlights, the lot. Nothing was said in the cabin. We calmly pull up to the fish and chip shop, sirens blaring, lights going mental, parked in angle parking right infront of the glass window of the shop. Get out of car, walk to the counter, make our fish and chip order like it was any other Saturday afternoon, car going completely mental 4 meters away. Nothing was said by the fish and chip shop attendants in the ~10-15 minutes that all fish and chip shops take to make an order, as is tradition. Other customers in the shop, sitting around, flipping through terrible magazines, car going completely mental outside the window, noone says anything. Collect fish and chip order, return to car, car starts because, I don't know, I guess the immobilizer is also not working, and you can also start the car while the car alarm is actually going off. Casually driving home, nothing is said. Regular traffic, people going on about their day. Pull up to a light on Frankston-Dandenong road, alarm still going mental. Oh look, a police car. Oh look, a police car, pulling up directly next to us at the lights. No response. Still nothing said by anyone involved. Light goes green, police car calmly drives on, we also do the same, our paths diverging naturally after a few minutes, as you do. Just before we pull up at James' place, he calmly says to me: "I really hope you know how to disable that" ----- I am sometimes a forgetful person, and the nature of my forgetfulness is completely random. Another time, another Saturday afternoon, sitting around on couches, watching shit on TV, having lunch. Haven't actually done anything with the car this time, been sittng around for hours just talking shit and generally just chilling. Probably been there a good 4-5 hours now. There's a knock on the door. Strange. Saturday at 3pm? Who's knocking on doors in Frankston. Not my place, so James goes to answer the door. Sketchy looking dude (Frankson) outside. Maybe homeless. He's got my car keys in his hand. "Hey mate do you any of you blokes own the car out the front?" "These keys were just hanging out the door mate, someone could just come along and nick it especially round these parts!!" "Thought I'd do the right thing and ask around!" We ended up giving this guy a burger or two and some drink for his troubles. The internet would have you believe that these cars are theft and police magnets. I'm not so sure..

Sorry Duncan, the second post was just random photos of broken scenarios in no particular order, and the first one was pretty light on the retelling. If I went into detail about all of the things in chronological order it would be so much stuff that making it accurate would be pretty rough. I never set out of my way to document any of this, these are literally just photos of random things along the way, and my shaky memory over the past decade. It will get more chronological (and boring) as it all gets closer to where the car currently actually is. This is where my opinions about what the internet says works, and my experience kind of diverge, The truth is nothing ever failed in spectacular fashion (this is a lie, stories below lol). It was just making huge power and the weak point seemed to be the actual neo blocks, every failure (even going back and checking one of the original blocks that failed) all failed in the same way, internal cracks in the bore caused by suspected wild cylinder pressure. The car kept making power when it got more timing, and E85, it was "happy" to make power and kept on doing so, have a look at the dyno sheets somewhere in the photos above. "You can just put a gate on the manifold/turbo housing" "Get the smallest turbo for your power goal" "Run enough timing until the engine won't make more power" This is kind... of accurate, but if you really push it you may run into problems. Half of the reason I kept changing turbos (and eventually manifold, and eventually running a lot less timing) were measures to address this, and in the end it was actually running pretty solidly.

FYI, I once set my car on fire with one of those turbo blankets.

I was never planning on making one, but then thought maybe some people would be interested in what was roughly involved in putting a V8 in, legalities, things to watch out for, or realistically, what not to do. Time has passed enough so some disasters were fun, stories are now funny stories, but make no mistake at the time they are gruelling challenges of the human spirit. Here's a few more assorted challenges of the human spirit, this time in no rough order. Me driving into a concrete pillar in old car: : This was caused by having head bolts in an engine when I paid for studs. This happened when I got supplied studs, then I went out and bought new studs because I didn't want to re-use them. Note: Size difference of actual correct studs, at least once I did a smart thing by replacing a non-required-to-replace item. Fantastic. Other problems? Whats That Misfire? You say? Check your belts, people: Quality Pod filter selection: Buying bolt on parts, totally bolt on for my application, no issues here, plenty of room for external gate.. apparently (to be fair this part did get refunded) I say this all the time but if you build your auto, build your flex plate. Here's my stock one! And below was the replacement. Note: This is a modified RB30 one. GL finding one. infact, I hope you have terrible luck, cause just go fkin manual. Pursuit of a legal looking external gate, courtesy of Scotty's garage, and the man hard at work. Also this was the demise of the first GTX3076R. Can you overspin them? Yeah I think you can. I have this comp wheel on my desk at work. My poor mate hard at work, helping me with god remembers what, before he built his garage. I plasti dipped the weathershields around the window, and because I wasn't confident I could replace them if they came off... it was time to do them in situ, with no training. ITS FINE. It actually was fine, has still held up well multiple years later actually. Another shot of how simple and easy dealing with those brakes are: Did you know that Attakd/Ksport/D2 changed the diameter of the holes in the hat and the disk between revisions, not noting this down in any place? Now you do! Here's a photo of my color matched new bumper, with the idea that I'd go to S1 because I want more flow to the intercooler/radiator, etc. As you can see, absolutely impossible to tell. My housemate helping me out in one of those Wednesday night breakdowns on the Monash, which are unsuprisingly wiring related. Did you know the connectors for S1/S2 Halogen/Xenon headlights were different? They sure are, and my lovely gf helped me out because her hands are smaller than mine. Wiring. Also note: Night time. When I needed to be somewhere. With no headlights. This was entirely fine and caused no delays or inconvieniences. Oh look, oil! Did you ever hear of a R34 VCT gear leaking oil? Go on, search, I know you won't find it, but if you get this... now you know what caused it! So, I had a haltech wideband, but an Innovate Gauge. Unfortunately, the scaling for the gauges is off as the Haltech gauge goes from 0-5V for 10-20AFR, and the Innovate uses the same voltage (0-5v) to go from 7.35 to 22.4 AFR. Oh and haltech don't sell the gauge anymore. So f**k you. So THIS contraption was born! Totally normal part of owning a modified car, everything bolts in, direct plugin, no extra work required at all. Actually Driving your car is ovverrated. Not pictured, many other additional times, including a 4 hour public transport commute to pick up car, only for it to die 10 minutes after driving for a failed fuel pump, directly outside the barwon prison main entrance. On my birthday. Imagine fielding all those happy birthdays phone calls when I get to reply" "Yeah I left work early to commute 4 hours on PT to get my car, currently broken down outside Barwon prison" "Oh uh, yeah, uh happy birthday man! [click]"

"Wasn't perfect" is an understatement. I probably have another few hundred photos of various things broken and various stories interspersed between it all, but didn't think the website would handle such a post. There are reasons why my girlfriend painted a picture of this stupid cursed car.. and I haven't even gotten into the whole LS conversion yet.

I don't think it's a straw man argument at all.. The OP clearly posted it with a view to keep it stock looking as they intend to use it as a road car, so "Stock looking" is "Stock looking, Mr Policeman observing my road car" As many have said, there are 0 instances of this actually being done. As many have also said, 1000hp RB26's at all, have a limited lifespan on a racetrack, measured in hours in terms of reliability, and they don't look stock. So to answer the original question, how difficult is it to have a 1000hp, reliable, stock looking setup on the street? I'd say extremely. You and I both know that a 1000hp setup, cruising around town is only using 50kw or something like that at 100km, cruising around. So it could last 400,000km in such a scenario. But that isn't what people really care about when they talk about reliability. They care about how many seconds or hours of full throttle time. While 1000hp in 2020 is different to 1000hp in 1995, I still would say it's limited to drags or highway pulls and even then have limited reliability. WTAC GTR's don't have 1000hp. They certainly don't have 1000hp, and 300,000km of daily driving, and do a track day once a month for multiple years. If you asked the owners to do that, they would definitely insinuate that something would break before then.

I have actually had my car for over 10 years now, so this build thread is retrospective. It may or may not have been prompted by going through many old photos. There are many broken things in these photos, and over the years since getting my humble NA+T Auto sedan (without any knowledge of it being NA+t and not a GTT) It has, in somewhat sequential order. Replaced the NA+T with a GTT engine. Exploded that GTT engine on the dyno immediately. Replaced fuel pump 9 times, some dead pumps, some melty wiring. Also managed to somehow break a R34 fuel tank multiple times, in the red circled area! Thanks, Optima! Replaced the ECU that caused this (TLDR Emanage Blue's are shit, but it was 2008) Built a forged RB with a 2.9 Stroker kit, proceeding to break everything around the car minus the components of this kit. By this I mean 3x RB25 DET Neo blocks, and a head. Here's some nice engine building photos, and quite a bit of engine GORE. This kit seemed to be the most indestructable thing again, as the engine found itself apart more times than together. Each time every component was tested, retested, Xrayed, and it was ready for more. However it seems everything else around it wasn't! Along the way, Blown up the shift kitted MV auto gearbox, near instantly. Built a GTT Auto gearbox, complete with aftermarket TCU, which broke Trent's dyno @ Chequered, forcing him to upgrade it. Had Hypergear, Garrett, GTX3076, Turbos.. .....Drove the car into an enbankment and had to reshell entire car. Re-Wiring the Automatic gearbox into a different/new car was a seamless easy experience, with absolutely no problems whatsoever! GTX3582, and Borg Warner EFR7670's as Turbos after that.. Many dyno sheets of all these setups, over my approximately seventy million trips to chequered tuning. Looks great, doesn't it? Many in progress shots but these turbo setups had their own problems oh boy did they ever! There was also a 6boost manifold that had to be machined 2mm so it was actually flat... photos.... somewhere. 3-4 different sets of rims over this time. Complete with brake upgrade kit, with its own f****king issues!! Just after the Borg Warner EFR Turbo, the auto found its way exiting my vehicle,, and the car was manually converted, and to quote to the words of JMA's automotive: "Never bring this f**king car here ever again!" so I'm sure the install was smooth, and had absolutely no problems at all in any way. Somewhere along the line, seats were installed/upgraded/tested: Drove the car to Adelaide, all was well, all happy with the world, to find out I almost melted the car to the ground 7 different ways from sunday due to how lines, and wiring was packaged. Delicious. Hilarious, brief (oh god, so very brief) backstory complete, this all cumulated with ripping apart the entire car and starting again. I then, replaced every bush in the car, LS Converted the motor, and is now currently Legally engineered in Victoria (incl full EPA/IM240 test passing experience). Info continued. Previous info can be elaborated on if anyone cares first! Bonus installation photo of my friend helping me with my Bilsteins (which Bilstein revalved to suit the LS when I got the whole thing weighted when that was done).

It is interesting and clearly OP has the skills (and confidence) to get the project done. The confusion will come from most people considering it a side-grade at best, given the amount of work thats been pumped into it which is un-reachable by most of the people here (self included) For a result which most would say... is at best.. different. You'd find some would prefer either a R32 OR a R34, but not necessarily a front 32 on a 34, or vice versa. The only universally accepted front body swap seems to be a GTR or R34 GTT front end onto a stagea ? But you know what - This is is what this section of the forum is for.. cosmetic styling and its some new content in here for once ?

Is your Skyline off the road? Do you want something to drive around and not hate life? Do you want to view your own car suspiciously and question why you even own it when your silly French car pretty much equals it for 99.95% of the things you do? If so, this is the car for you. I bought this Megane ~20,000kms ago after renting a few from Hertz and fell in love with them much to the annoyance of anyone near me with ears. I purchsed this one as a car to get around town with while other car projects were off the road and I will surely regret not having it in the future. Help me make a mistake by selling it. This IS a 225 Sport Cup, not a 225 Sport. The cup has different suspension and different steering and a host of other different things, more relaxed stability control etc, which were all introduced as fixes to the 225 Sport when it was originally released. The car is pretty much standard other than: RSTuner STG 1 tune (included tuner/ODB2 reader with car), so you'll need to run it on 98. A pretty okay looking wrap to cover Renault's amazing water based clear coat Mid Muffler Delete, which makes nearly no actual difference to sound. Ford Focus XR5 rims, which sit out a little more than the original Cup rims which were cracked when I got them. Hankook RS4 Tyres (235/40/18) KAM Fire extinguisher bracket. You'll also get 2 extra sets of brake pads, one OEM, and one DBA XP which I got for free from BrakesDirect. The car currently has Forza FP3 brake pads up the front, which are track suitable but entirely okay to drive around with on the road. The car does have some interior creaks which I believe ALL of them do after testing when looking to buy this one. I assure you if you are the kind of driver that is interested in a car like this, it won't bother you after taking one corner in a twisty road like this. If you want a comparison, all up they're about as bad as a coke can sitting in a drink holder. I bought this thinking it would be an excuse to bust out the tools and keep busy while a V8 conversion was going on. My tools gathered dust.

Lol. Guys, 1000hp engines may last a season on track. 50 laps is 150km. A year of track days at once a month (more than most) is 1800km. Sorry but if your 1000hp engine lasts 1800 hard km.. it's still an unreliable piece of crap. And I think someone getting 12 full track days out of a 1000 hp setup, with 50 hot laps per session is beyond what it would reasonably last. If you're measuring your engine life in hours, then.. yeah.

Again @Tobz I have a question, as I have a 34 and had to make my own seat "adapters" (i.e large steel plates with huge bolts) Do the ones from Crank Motorsport raise the seat up much/any? I found that after making some plates up the seats did sit a fair bit higher than they otherwise would have. An off the shelf adapter like the one you listed would have made my life a lot easier! In any case thanks for posting, people often have R34 problems with seats fitting and end up having to buy rails that do/don't/maybe fit, so getting the info out there is ???

No smart folks want 1000hp in any form of street car, because the reliability of such a setup, even on the best built engine will be comedy at best.

I took the entire engine out and replaced it with a better engine.

I have broken 2 R34 fuel tanks. When getting a new price for one from Kudosmotorsports I was told that the part number for S15, R33, R34, GTR etc was all the same part number. Rffectively all the non-metal R32 plastic tanks were the same. However I would definitely re-check that information before getting one shipped to the USA, because y'all get S14's over there and that MAY be the same part.

Here's an example on my old rims, and yes in this photo the front is clearly higher than the rear as it's on a slope too. That said, if the front was lower, it'd tuck further in, but I can't really find anything more conclusive. Clearly the above photos are gonna work if you're a coupe, and everything on the internet I have found says the front track is 10mm wider than the rear track on a 34 GTT. So I could just be fkin wrong lol. However, I definitely don't need a spacer on the rear with a 9+30, so perhaps the coupe does have a little more space in the guards.

Nope, my car is higher than yours too, and I have only -1.5 deg camber at the back - It could be tyres in my case. Its worth mentioning that the rear pokes a good 10mm more than the front, for the same fitment which I found suprising! I could take pictures of how it sits, mind you its been out in the weather for a month now ?

That is bizarre. I have 18x9 +30 and I need rolls to clear.. Also the rear on the 34 pokes out more than the front. At least it does with the Sedan, perhaps the coupe IS different! (I have 265 tyres on all 4)