Kinkstaah

You said this. Then someone posted up literal picture of the differences and how to cut them out with a die grinder to the same size if you've got epic confidence and a forklift workbench. Yes it will still work, yes people still use the DE head with DET intakes to get some results, as people have said. But what I've quoted up here from you is factually incorrect, was proven incorrect with pictures, and people saying "Hey whoa, that information isn't correct" is exactly what you'd want on a forum. "The head intakes are smaller, but some people have got reasonable results in any case until it becomes a restriction" is all accurate, and noone has actually disagreed on any of it, from any posts here.

Hey @Tobz, good to know the 34 was "meant" (sort of) to have a battery in the boot. Also: What airbox is that? How well does it fit on the underside to the chassis of the car? Looks like the hi octane one. I was considering buying one and modifying it so it fits my intake pipes. Nice to see an actual shot of it inside a real car.

Sway.. at the front.. only? Any photos of it at the track mid-corner? That is how you know if you truly have sway going on ?

The fuel tank in a R34 GTT has the light coming on at 50L (or near, think 48-50L). So half the tank indicated (which ALSO isnt linear) is 25L for your 200km. Which while not great, isn't too far from the realm of possibility for city driving. I remember in the day I could get 600km from a tank, in a GTT, in an Auto... if that entire tank was used at 100-110kmh on a highway (i.e driving to Sydney).

If you have a widebody, sure. Both will sit out about 15-20mm from the guard.

@jrm They sure are! Shoot me a PM with details if keen. Still have everything listed, all boxed up away from the elements etc ?

Yes. The front will tuck 1mm more than a 9+30, rear will be +1mm pokey vs a 9+30, but people run 10+38 on the rear all the time (with is +4mm of poke in the same example vs 9+30) They will fit. You will likely need to roll guards in order to fit them depending on how much tyre you want on said rims.

18x9 +30 can fit without issues. I have them on my car. I have rolled guards and 265's all round. It is very tight. However, they definitely will, absolutely, fit. I would say a 18x9 +38 on the front would be pushing it to the point where it will both look worse and also not fit. So fk that off.

Yep, the only way around this is front flares and a spacer. Sadly you've done all you can do, the wheels simply don't fit at the front.

Nissans are generally really good to take a beating and you can definitely daily them for pretty much every component except the engine, but I fixed that in a different way myself.. That said I recall a R33 GTR being sold with 550,000km on it as it was used as a daily, and you can bet that 500,000 of that km was driving on a highway making 22kw, not 550,000 track miles making 400awkw. As others have noticed I definitely see more R32 GTR's out and about on the street than 33's and 34's which do appear on weekends pretty much.

Above post is good, but just to confirm, actually confirm that you have fuel, air, spark. Just because the ECU is attempting to fire the injector doesn't always mean the injector is being fired. As above, you may need to see what IAT is used when the sensor is unplugged, it will have a fail condition. The link forum may be of more help here. At this point (and the joys of standalone ecus) your link could be running any engine.

Woooosh. It is the button that notifies you that the buttons on the wheel to change gear are activated. The button that controls this function is next to the shifter.

I have managed to actually snap the knuckle twice when using a whiteline bar. (r34) So yeah the heavy duty sway bars up front, with the heavy duty sway bar links.... are really heavy duty!

I can see you've made another thread for a GTT engine and Gearbox. Probably get the driveshaft too, while you're at it. Given you have a N/A, you should know you have basically got a S15 rear end - So consider getting a helical LSD when you can. All of the GTT stuff/upgrades won't fit, ever. As for the driveshaft, I'm not entirely sure. If the DET gearbox is bigger, is it bigger in all dimensions? Are the flanges the same? Will the driveshaft fit? You will find data saying it will, it won't, or not sure. Only sure fire way is to check. This will apply to literally every part you attempt to put on a NA car considering parts for GTT are aftermarket. So much stuff goes along the lines of: You: Will this fit my car? Internet: Yes, absolutely, it fits Skylines You: Will this fit my R34? Internet: Yes, all skylines are the same You: But, R33 and R34 are different, will it fit the 34? Internet: Yes, it will fit the 33 and 34 because this part is shared You: [doubt]. What about R34 series 1, vs Series 2? What about Turbo vs N/A Internet: ghosts One thing's for sure though, do not spend one cent on the non turbo engine, or non turbo gearbox. At least you don't have HICAS though! The main thing the point is, there's so much stuff to do (how about you replace EVERY suspension bush?) to keep you busy by the time you want to touch the motor at all you'll be well and truly over it. If you start doing the maths sooner rather than later you could just go buy a V8 mustang or literally any other superior car by the time you're done and of age to legally drive it. Expect to pay twice as much and put double the work in to get a car about 90% as good lol. The hard truth is everything you have done, thus far, from when you first bought the GT to where it is now, even if you literally sprayed every panel yourself, learned how to spray paint, bought all the gear, personally massaged and sanded every panel by hand.. Is like 5% of the total amount of work to get a project like this done. People aren't being haters, they've just done the other 95% and wouldn't recommend it again lol.

It's not a troll, but its a combination of inexperience really, which is fine, we all start there. The first thing any cop will look for is a 20 year old import with a P plate on it. The problem is a non turbo skyline, of any kind, in any form, is a completely shit performance vehicle. Get an 86. Turbo that when you're legally allowed. Source: Had NA+T, then 2.9 liter stroker kit (is yours brian crower too?) then built auto, then manual, then 5 different turbo choices, now have Legal V8. Any idea you could possibly have, has been done. Some people like myself have done all of them! You should listen to these people. Alternatively, make mistakes and waste money. These are solved problems by now.

I have managed to fit 265's all round on 18x9 +30's on all 4. There's a ton of room for more rubber at the back, I have something like 35mm of inside clearance. Fronts are pretty tight, in a "Yeah you'll need to get it rolled/yeah you'd better think about relocating the loom under the driver side fender" kind of thing. I used to have 18x9.5 +27 with a 265 there too, unsure as to which setup went through the plastic. Maybe both did, and maybe a 255/35/18 is a better idea on the front ?

From memory (and chatting to a friend who entered clubsprint) it was something like you can't *replace* a guard with a factory guard, i.e a bolt on front flare is disqualified, but cutting up a rear OEM guard to add a fibreglass extension *was* allowed. This resulted in some dumb cutting of an OEM front guard to make it fit the same space that a bolt on replacement would not fit. I don't think there's much "wrong" with a S13 given how well they have done with the MCA car. Some cars are easier to drive than others and old R and S chassis require a bit more from a driver than a more modern vehicle. Turbo hondas have always been a force to be reckoned with for any clubsprint event, and so have evos. When you look at SMP it'd be like holding a track day at PI, that may or may not assist certain cars over others.

Sadly this is definitely damage that will cost more than the entire cost of the car to fix.

Har har, yes I did infact mean four catalytic converters ?

It's already over the limit. Decatting will do nothing for performance, I have *four* cats in my car and removed them all for testing and picked up exactly 0kw.

Did Sandown on Sunday. Engine didn't blow up. Utterly destroyed brakes and drove home metal on metal style yet again. 8/10 would recommend.

The above info is right. A pod filter is an upgraded air filter for the engine, so you kind of already have that. The stock turbo is metal wheeled in a S15 so it can handle higher boost pressure and as above, 190-220kw is doable depending on how hard it is pushed and what fuel you use (E85 vs 98 etc). Get a good solid exhaust, good solid intercooler, I too don't know if injectors and pump are up to the task of maxing out the standard turbo, but a modest goal like yours should result in actual happiness and a fun vehicle that isn't constantly broken. Try to resist the urge to go mental and impress people on the internet with a car that sounds great on paper but can't be used for anything cause constantly broken, which is a very real thing that people with big power cars kinda don't disclose very freely.

You forgot "sometimes it all just fails and they get drilled out and helicoiled"

As a previous R34 auto owner who did all the ECU stuff mentioned before, I prefer LS6 and TR56. (it's easier to install than a TR6060)

You can get aftermarket ECU's that will take control of an auto gearbox. You can seperate it out from the neo ECU (or run a haltech, other standalone manual-only ecu). You can repurpose the steering wheel buttons to do other things (such as, shift up/down as an input on an aftermarket transmission ECU). That said, don't. NFi what will bolt to a RB that isn't a RB. People definitely can though (plenty of auto 2 and 3 speeds for drag on RB's) but lol I can imagine the pain of trying to get a ZF 6 speed working with a RB. It would be easier to just put a LS and it's auto or a Barra and it's auto in at the same time and massively more advisable than just doing the gearbox.