Kinkstaah

If you ever sell this diff/halfshaft combo, do let me know lol

The odds are so ridiculously high that 2 adaptronics and a Haltech spontaneously explode that it is way more likely Racepace fked it up bigtime (and caused all 3 to die). This is also obviously pretty damn unlikely, but it's more likely than 3 ECU's randomly failing instantly. ECU's breaking at all is extremely rare, and almost always due to install error.

This is true. 99.9% of Skylines now are some variant of Grandfather's Axe/Ship of Thesus. Condition and kms are nearly completely disconnected nowadays. Nearly ?

But... yes* In the scenario you described, it should open, barring some scenario where the vac line on the wrong side of the gate (if it has two, etc). This is likely why GTSBoy said test it off the car to make sure it actually can open.

They actually do make a fair bit of noise lol, I'd say they are exactly this spooly. video-1575365338.mp4

^--- this. The Nissan OEM gasket is a league better than almost any other alternative gasket you can get. Have seen other brands of modded cars opt for the Nissan Gasket over their own OEM one or aftermarket ones. The studs and nuts that hold on the turbo however are a complete PITA and you will constantly need to check and re-tighten them because this is 90's turbo life.

You know, I once lost my license in QLD but I was able to keep driving in Vic, just to throw it out there. Though this was due to a speeding fine in QLD, which was paid, but because they couldn't find my license in QLD they just banned me from driving there for 3 months, going by the letter they sent me back home in Vic. NFI if that applies or not, because I didn't get pulled over in the subsequent 3 months in Victoria, and the demerit points did find their way to my VIC license, so I guess they found it in the end? This was in 2014.

But you're entirely unfamiliar with turbos out there? You have a lot of research to do. Kings of the Castle are the Garrett G series or Borg Warner EFR. I would err on the side of the Garrett for livability reasons. They're physically smaller for the same power. They are fairly spooly. You won't care either way given how much better performance they would provide over a T04Z.

400+kw on that setup is going to involve swearing unless it's one of those builds where everything is actually setup correctly and it doesn't run out of fuel, spark, air, or things start popping off, getting too hot, or some combination above. My bet is medium swearing and "We almost got there but one thing can't quite make it"

Anyone want to buy my Megane? Best car I've ever owned lol. Back to Regrets and Regression over here now

The main thing is how small the turbo is physically. That is a boon for track use, purely for heat management, clearance to lines, etc which is well worth it if you're beating on the things!

He gets ~7psi at 3000rpm, the delivery is very similar to the EFR7163 (and my 7670 of old) The car above has 256/260 cams in it which pull the power more to the topend than the Tomei 258's that I was referring to in the EFR thread. Like the EFR's they don't spike onto boost suddenly due to yay transient. This car had timing pulled out and boost pulled out when it ramps up for traction and keeping max torque down to help keep the engine 'safe' as there's a little more revs to play with. I would say a 550 is probably a better bet unless you really want to live north of 6000+ rpm.

This actually isn't true (having just legally done a LS swap into a skyline). It's just that the IM240 emissions regulations are based on the year of the car. That's the target you have to hit. This generally means that if you use a newer engine, its far more likely to meet newer emissions regulations, which get more stringent over time. (also the R33 is 1/4 the limit of the 'hard to hit' variable that the R34). So put an LS into a R33 lol. In regards to what this thread is about, LS is always the answer. It is a hard enough swap unless you are an electrical god damned genius to attempt any of the things that would go into a V36. I would say its probably simpler to go turbos, or the even more boring answer, is find a better platform because the V36 does what a V36 will do as well as a V36 ever will. There's also probably* kits out there to put LS's into the USA versions of the V36. They may or may not be suitable. Note: You could probably pass the emissions IM240 with turbos if you wanted. This is a NSW/VIC regulation but every other state is more lenient than that. I'd still advise against it because you're stressing a motor out, when there's other options that do not have that issue.

These things are super promising, a SR20 from "A guy I know" recently just went 405rwkw on a SR20 at 29psi on E85... with a G25-660. Worth picking over anything else right now, if only for packaging concerns which is an issue for pretty much any turbo build. At the very least very "Nice to have".

You will know, I mean know if you have permanently dropped a cylinder. Anyway the options are: 1) Rebuild the motor 2) Enjoy motor until 1) So...

Well your 9+35 became 9+15 with the spacer, which will definitely rub. So... there you go. Use a smaller spacer, (or no spacer).

I got a DAB box for digital radio with my full android head unit. The answer is "surprisingly quite a lot clearer" lol

Your options are. MCA ($$$$$) BC Coilovers ($) Shockworks ($$) Or go full f**king retard like I did ($$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$) BC or Shockworks is the best bang for buck. With a GT though I would say BC's is about as much as you'd realistically ever want to go. The GT is at BEST a comfortable neat styled cruiser like a Nissan Camry of similar year. Treat it as such lol

Did sell it, and it went to England! Unless you're the buyer of mine (who actually only had one arm and one functional leg...)… GO MANUAL.

I was in that situation and I upgraded the speakers. Reason: Music on in car 100% of time spent in car. In traffic, parked at lights, cruising around, while car warming up, middle of thunderstorm. Extra injector requirement is something like 0.01% of time spent in car.

True* except you'd never have to return the vehicle to stock, just to it's "Engineered" state. I.e he may have to change his bonnet, but would never have an issue with the V8 being there. In any case for all prospective buyers of this actual car, this is not an issue!

Having run the gamut on my own car I can say it's not really as hard as you think. That said I was also willing to casually drive to NSW from Victoria for some of the required testing, and tune the car myself for emissions, and... so maybe not everyone is willing to do that or has better things to do with their life.. Also, that car may be engineered, and old mate decided to change the steering wheel and bonnet later.. as many of us here are reported to do

Also the 45K one is not the same as the others ?

I recently went through this. Honestly given how this can only really occur with non-standard stuff its where you'd begin. It's almost always a device is on (when the car is off) and its draining power that way. Common suspects, Audio systems, reverse cameras, ODB2 connectors, Dashcams, Alternator Diodes failing so alternator is always 'excited' In my case it was the alternator being wired to the horn fuse, so it was always excited. As this was an engine conversion (I didnt do the wiring) this is in the category of "Stuff that changed".

GTR's did infact drop under 40k (for R34's) before the crazy price hike. Anyone who has ever looked under one or in the engine bay of one or knows skylines in general, knows that when you mod one, for performance's sake, you're effectively paying $100k (lol) for a heavy AWD system.