Kinkstaah

Having gone through engine conversions, I think the smart move here is not to put a RB26 into a S15, mainly because the amount of power the SR20 can do is going to be enough for most sane applications in that platform. Plus you could probably sell the RB26 and more than pay for a reasonable SR20 rebuild and have a fun vehicle ?

It is a pricy thing to do, but the truth is a good clutch is important as you use it, I dunno... about 200 times an hour when you think about it.. I paid a little less, but I supplied all of the parts to begin with. To drive in, drive out, with new bits and that it is well worth it. Sadly these days you never know with R33 GTST Gearboxes, a lot of people have started to use Z33/Z34 CD009 gearboxes or others, as these boxes often get used for drifting and the price has gone up. However the car is going to be so much better for having a manual in it.

From what I can gather you drove this thing a few times, thought "Sweet jesus this is hardcore" and then reconsidered what you were even thinking initially. This is fine and realistically the car is a pretty hardcore one to just step in to. What won't change though is the initial line of thinking before you bought what you bought, and if you have no fun car at all you may find yourself longing. Not saying this specifically is the car for you, but I would still expect to think of something that does suit what itch you were initially looking to scratch cause they rarely stay away! Fun cars don't need to be batshit crazy or scary!

Why would you choose anything that isnt a G series Garrett in 2019? That said the GTX2860 realistically is a pretty good unit. MX5 down here in Vic uses them to great effect at Winton doing 1:28's which is fast as fk. If anything it's refreshing that someone in 2019 is not going "Yeh bruh insta story needs 600+kw to even trend"

Rockers snap fairly frequently on SR20's that have had a beating. There's a few designs for better rocker arms that are less prone to doing this. That said when I've seen SR20's that have had broken rockers, they have basically 0 compression in the cylinder thats affected and effectively are driving around on 3cyl. If your car was driving around mostly okay, and only concerned about the comp results then this is likely to be something that broke in the past.. got replaced, and the bit was never removed ? If you were driving around on 3cyl, chasing the misfire and found a broken rocker then yes that will cause it....

Hankook do this for all their range, so it'd be any RS4 size, dates are always recent (within like a couple months of sale). I have them on both the Megane Sport and the R34. Great road/light track tyre. You WILL think you broke a bearing when they start to wear though ?

It does actually - in my LS I found this out the hard way when I was keen on retaining aircon. The good news it is doable, and I have AC with the LS, but yes the brains of the system does go through the engine ECU by default. Sadly I didn't do the work myself, but it is doable without having to have the stock ECU in the car anymore (mine is gone) through a few relays done by people far more comfortable with AC than myself. But sadly yes the Stock ECU does more than just "AC compressor engaged so raise idle a bit "

It is also worth noting that generally speaking, the cooling system for R chassis is actually pretty decent. Even if you're doing 30 min track abuse sessions the stock fan/shroud does the job, let alone street driving. I know it's already been suggested but getting back to a known good setup is recommended. To be fair a decent thermo setup shouldn't cause issues for street driving either.. but its safe to say the stock Nissan Fan/Shroud/Radiator/Simple Rad upgrade that bolts to OEM positions/gear won't.

Sounds like a regular SR20 to me, as I've lived with one for many years... this is likely due to the sound of the mp3 as opposed to the sound of the actual engine. I wouldn't be too hard on yourself re: Mechanical knowledge, most people wouldn't have done the testing you've done, at least you've done a comp test and added oil and such. Most people here (self included) tap out when it comes to Engine or Gearbox Rebuilding when we ilicit experts to do this stuff (with varying results). Its a bit of an unwritten rule that we should all expect an upcoming engine or gearbox rebuild in where we have 2 options 1) Replace with supposedly good 2nd hand stock RB25/RB26/SR20DET/Associated Gearbox 2) Rebuild engine and usually forge it. 3) Part out/Sell car In the very worst case you're in this scenario and the above options are your options. Only you will know really where this fits in your life and what your budget is and how likely it is to get resolved. A lot and I mean A LOT of project cars linger between options 1 and 2, and 3... before 3 happens and sit in garages broken or in various stages of engines out for years. This is a sad place and for your own mental health it's not great to be stuck there lol.

Should be more than fine. There's a lot of space in the rear of a 34 on the inside, I don't know too much about the BC's vs other coilovers back there, I have 18x9 +30 all round and have something like 40mm clearance on the inside. It'll poke a litttle on the rear, but 10+38 is a very common size for the rear of skylines in general in regards to that.

Also getting a RWC in order to transfer it into your name may prove difficult (I am from Victoria so I can't be too sure on life like that in NSW). It being a hobby is a good mindset to have with a heavily modified car. It being a comfortable, happy, safe, reliable, daily driver to drive 100km each way to work is not so much... The % of people who have modified cars to make them 100% compliant with our friends at Services NSW is basically 0%. I will however say Services NSW were super easy to deal with as I recently went and took my car there (from vic) to pass a full EPA and they were pretty pleasant. Enjoy the journey cause owning something like this is definitely a journey!

The only thing I'd be concerned about is, well while the mods list is pretty good (turbo is a bit too big for that intended power) is.. .... are you aware of modded car life? 99.9% of the mods will make the police rather upset. Modded cars are generally unreliable. If you're well versed in this but this is just first step in Turbo life then all is well. If you're comparing this to say, a new M2 or something then the experiences will be quite different! And yes, I too was suprised by the wheels not looking that bad either.

At least people will be able to attend track days though

Ahh, I have a 34 so I have the vac line. My car is a long way away from that now, I now have a PS pump from a different motor (LS) all hooked up, and removed the hicas entirely (changed the subframe). I get really heavy but constant steering now which I am OK with. Point being if I can mutilate everything and still have smooth steering, I would be suspecting this at the power steering side of things as opposed to anything electronic or HICAS'y given my setup works without complication

Do you mean power steering at all, or power steering assist which is speed sensitive? The latter part needs a vacuum source which a lot of people remove when they upgrade turbos and change piping etc. Is this the case.. or do you have no power steering *AT ALL* which results in a massively heavy wheel, or no speed sensitive steering which makes it more "very heavy everywhere".

People (self included) have made much more than that off the stock manifold as long as it's gated elsewhere (external gate off turbo, external gate off manifold done properly) I managed 440rwkw through an auto off said manifold. That doesn't necessarily make it a great idea, though. In 2019 I would be buying a G25-550 or 600 on a RB25 and modifying the stock manifold to have a Vband and go make 300kw that way and enjoy everything not exploding.

For a drift car its not that uncommon a size, have seen these CST's in your sizes on S15's etc a lot and they aren't too drastic, but people won't be running 265's on them under the guard. With camber and rolling which is also pretty damn common in a drift scenario these are well in the "can be made to work" scenario.

You'll get people like me with 18x9 +30 CST Hyperzero's with 265/35/18 front and rear laughing at your lack of grip. However they will fit, but only with the streched to the max tyres you've got on. I would wager you'd need a roll but with that extreme amount of stretch you may not lol.

For any future searchers, all of the above is now sold except:

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You don't get more power, what you get is a lot more knowledge about how to make your engine run right. It is a slippery slope, self tuning. You kind of get to the point where you realise everything else was a bit of a half-effort-not-completed job, and its a lot of satisfaction getting things running actually right. Better ECU's give you better control over what is happening with the engine. Better control = better running engine everywhere, not just WOT pulls from 4500RPM upwards.

https://www.whichcar.com.au/reviews/2020-renault-megane-rs-trophy-r-first-drive-performance-review "The result is a car that on a circuit, with height lowered and dampers set to medium-rare, feels every inch as good and connected as a Porsche 911 GT3 RS, just front-wheel drive and less accelerative. There’s equivalent feel, finesse, grip and loads of traction." And the truth is the rest of the RS lines are basically these style cars with full interiors, at least the clio RS variants and the Meg 225, 250 et al. At least I'm gonna be 100% certain I will be like "shit, wish I didnt sell that" when I inevitably sell mine because 1 car lyf. They're just so different when driven in anger compared to the staple of cool cars nowadays, i.e Golf GTI/Golf R. That said the Cooper S is pretty cool too, but not quite the same thing, Renaults just got beaten to the ground much harder with depreciation lol.

Yes, methinks the love/hate relationship I have with Nissan is probably due to that 50/50 split. With GM involved I have the ultimate three-way going on now!

Its not really so much the power (mine has a tune on it) It's the handling.. especially when you go into any kind of twisty road, the differences are night and day. I have the cup version. It's basically the same car as a RS250/RS265 though I prefer the dynamics of the RS225 (it has less braking/liftoff oversteer, it has better visibility) Took mine to Winton when the 34 failed its first pre-trackday test with LS mode, did about 90 hotlaps with 0 faults and was 4 wheel sliding it around Winton, just a brilliant little thing, most trouble free track event ever. Only realised after the day that it was running stock shocks as well which is just a crazy thing after Nissan life.. Pretty big Renault fan now lol.

The only thing better is a Renault Megane RS225. Also, going to be selling mine soon, unrelated ofc