Kinkstaah

I get this, but what if you only have the motor? I.e there is no IACV, no manifolds, no coilpacks, no coilpack cover, and you can't pull a rocker cover off to confirm (i.e buying online or something). I do not have a RB anymore but I always was curious about this, if the timing cover is plastic on a Neo, is it metal on a RB25 from a R33 then?

Enkei Raijin is also this style, and in 18"

I think it's just the nature of these turbos and the people that buy them - They aren't a bolt on affair and the people who decide to research a cutting edge turbo are rarely cutting corners in other areas... which means a lot of fabrication, and time, and cost, usually on built motors, on cars that are rarely driven... and so on.

In this scenario it's clearly a Neo. I would love to see how this is done in a scenario where all you get is the block and head bolted together with no peripherals at all which is obviously a bit of a bigger concern when buying a 2nd hand motor...

I can confirm that the 33 GTST clutch pedal and brake pedal works just fine in my R34 sedan. However I don't love the R34 Auto accelerator pedal, it sits signifigantly lower than the brake pedal does by default. I suspect (dont know this for sure, maybe its all skylines?) that the auto accelerator pedal sits lower to be where the auto brake pedal is. With the mismatched height, heel-toe'ing is quite difficult unless you are REALLY hard on the brake to the point where you can blip the throttle. Any other time the accelerator pedal is out of reach. Thats about the only thing to consider. May not even be conversion specific but I've always wondered.

I say this here because to his credit he did search and found I encountered the same issue and solved it back in the day. I found that out by reverse engineering how my aftermarket transmission ECU had been setup and working. But really, the NA gearbox is a piece of garbage, and the GTT one while stronger when built (Mine is still going strong in the UK where I sold it....) pales in comparison. The answer is manual. And if you can't drive manual, have fun learning because it is fun and jesus the car is better manual than it ever was auto. The skyline gearboxes are not exactly lovely DCT's. But yes in theory it can be done.... but in reality, ANY time or money spent working it out should be deferred to putting a manual gearbox in.

Interior Bits All Parts in silver, in pretty decent condition. Only changed as I wanted to change the lot to black to match other interior bits. Stereo Surround - $20 Dash Vents - $30 Climate Control unit (works perfectly): $200 OEM DIN Pocket slot: $50 Auto Shifter Surround: $25 (DOES fit with a manual conversion without fouling). Triple Gauges (aftermarket Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost). The text here lights up blue and pink/red as in the terrible photo from a video on this ad. Comes with stock gauges as well if you prefer: $250 for all gauges/surround. Oil/Water Heater and Thermostatic (80C)Sandwich plate for R34 Skyline, or any RB25DET - No Leaks, working perfectly. Works perfectly for an oil cooler, or the OEM part works perfectly if you have an old/corroded item! $50 Stock Intercooler pipes (engine side), intake, bov, and heater hoses (R34 GTT) $50 for everything in that photo R34 Fuel pump and hangar. Working fine, removed from stock car. $50 Sony Single DIN Head Unit with Nissan Plug (R34 GTT). Useful if you want to replace the standard stock unit it you for some reason have one. Does not have BT - Has an awesome authentic AUX port and CD option. $25. R34 Nissan Skyline AC Aircon Compressor. Working fine, only removed because of an Engine conversion and wouldn't bolt to the new engine. $100 R34 GTT Starter Motor. Starts. Has started for awhile. What else could you want a starter motor to do? $70 Nissan Skyline R34 GT/GTT R34 Indicator Stalk - Works fine, bought just for testing and turns out it wasn't the indicator stalk that was the problem. $30. Bosch IACVBosch IACV / Idle air control valve. Worked great, incl plugs and resistor. Had this retrofitted to a Nissan Skyline RB25DETNEO motor to take over from the crap stock one that fails and costs $700 to buy. No longer have said motor, so this is up for sale. Works great. Way better than the OEM item if you go anywhere near a track and get things hot. $60 RB25DET Clutch Fan and Hub Near new (i.e not 20 years old, something like 2000ish km) fan and fan hub for RB25DET/RB25DET Neo. Still has Nissan stickers on it. Bought it a few months ago and then sold the motor it was attached to. Works perfectly, kept engine nice and cool under 20+ minute track abuse sessions. $250 Whiteline 24mm Front and Rear Sway BarWorks entirely OK. Trimmed one side of the softest setting to actually fit on a R34 though it's supposed to fit them from Whiteline. This thing is strong and stiff as hell and like me you will probably ignore the "Suitable only for race track warning. I hit a kerb once at the track and it broke the knuckle and the bar was entirely fine. Could use a lick of paint. Comes with spare bushes that I bought but never needed. Front and Rear included. Removed as didn't fit after an engine swap. $300 for both. R34 GTT RB25DET NEO Engine Cover (Series 2) Comes with the coilpack cover $50 Happy to post if need be or pick up.

It IS possible to use an GTT ECU's 'TCM' I.e the inbuilt pins on the ECU) to drive the n/a gearbox. Yes you can just bypass the n/a TCM and wire it to the GTT ECU. The inputs of the n/a TCM DO translate to the extra pins of the R34 GTT auto ECU. If you have a manual engine ECU tho then GL to you. Aftermarket auto ECU's do exist and DO work, but its utterly dumb when 'use anything other than the n/a auto gearbox' is by FAR the best solution.

Hey mate - Keen on the Accusump. Sent you a PM.

I was going to say the same, you really can see how small the turbos are for their flow in a listing like that (same with G25 too).

The thing about old school setups with old school fuel and old school items is... ... they're tried and tested, and work. Even if they aren't the worlds greatest result, they work, and will continue to do so. 320kw bolt on package in a GTR is plenty to have fun with, day in, day out, enjoy car etc.

Pretty huge. If you had Non-neo forged Pistons in a Neo motor, I.e R33 RB25DET pistons in a R34 RB25DET Neo which the S2 Stagea has, your compression would be massively high. High enough that whoever assembled the motor would surely notice...... surely.... It might be the other way around, I can't quite remember. But you'd definitely have compression ratio issues if the wrong pistons end up in the wrong block/head combination. (neo vs non neo)

As an owner of a sedan, I confidently say they will end up all rusting before they are really worth anything at all. Even though functionally they're probably better than the coupe, people buy things based on their eyes and hearts which means coupe all the way. Nowadays you'd try and just manual convert an auto sedan, and enjoy driving the thing as opposed to it being a collector item.

The BMW mentioned also wasn't bad on fuel, but it did have a mysterious issue of always fouling two spark plugs, due to the location of the runners this made a whole lot of sense when we looked at the FPR. It could simply be something like the wrong pistons used, sky high compression ratio etc too. E85 will help with the pinging, but obviously better to find the source ?

This is possibly monumentally off topic, but I recently was made aware of a similar issue where a Boosted 1979 BMW 320i was pinging its brains out on like 3deg of timing. After years of living with it we tested the FPR (Which was a well known australian brand) and it was dumping a good liter a minute of fuel into the intake at idle through the vac line. It's probably not that. But if you've checked everything else..... (it could also be as mentioned, something done when engine was rebuilt. If your car behaves differently, look for all the things that are done differently to others)

Either that or.... People into Skylines in 2006 weren't into Skylines because they were Skylines, but because Skylines were the current cream of the crop, bang for buck, pretty stout car. Now in 2019 they look for the same requirements, and are also 13 years older than they were in 2006, so their requirements change a little, and unsuprisingly, look for cars that meet those same requirements. It's the things the car does that people were attracted to, not the car or badge itself. No real car enthusiast is only an enthusiast for one specific car, make, etc. It's always been about how well the car matches the activity the driver finds fun that makes something good.

Yourself and Mat Wooten's R34 had actual supportable, reliable data behind how the engine was driven, how it lasted, how long it lasted etc which is what people should be looking for instead of "I've owned the car with 600kw for years bro no probs" that can sometimes befound. Definitely seems exponential in terms of power vs longevity (as you'd expect). A lot of things start to go pear shaped in Skylines as you go over 300-320kw, Clutches get shit, grip gets hard, lag becomes a problem, gearboxes let go, diffs can't hang on, NVH increases exponentially, engines explode more often, etc. But yeah with a NA+T this all happens at 220kw instead of 320kw. If OP wants to have a 220kw car honestly and won't want more, then sure, NA+T and it may suit him really well. Statistically improbable, though, hence all the well informed advise that gets repeated time and time again. Rare is the guy who is OK to drop down on power, usually same guy who has had reliability issues at higher power and the joy of cars hasn't been brutally snuffed out by them lol.

I actually don't think it's come to that, and honestly, legitimately, I would prefer what I have over a M4. I'm not saying anything is better than another, but the M4 is not really my jam and the complexity and cost involved would turn me off. Just a very different animal in the end. Can't throw another M4 engine in there if you blow it at the track one day. Changing plans 5 times does cost you though, so having a clear idea what you want, how you want to use it to begin with is strongly recommended which is I am sure the point you were making here. All the advice at OP is in that vein, trying to help and skip a few costly steps between where he is now, and where he wants to be. Some advice I found is different to what I experienced. I would take advice with a pinch of salt and ask better, specific questions nowadays. When people say "I've had 350kw for years" you do need to establish exactly what driving patterns people have. 350kw commuting to work is different to 350kw doing the odd highway pull or hill run vs "I take it to the track (once a year)" vs "I take it to the track (30 times a year) when it comes to reliability. Usually when you get the actual usage data of cars and their associated power levels, you can see where the builds differ. In my case it was mostly that. Like Dose pipe said, want to track a car reliably? You're going to start caring about heat, heat, heat, heat, heat, heat, heat, HEAT on so many more components than any road/street car and re-engineer that entire aspect.

I had a very similar situation when idling the car for 30 minutes or so. The car wasn't overheating, but that bottom hose was still ambient temperature. I took the car for a drive around the block, talking ~1-2min drive around the block, cruising around like a responsible adult, or alternatively, like a guy who wasn't sure if his thermostat was actually working. Pulled into garage, checked bottom hose, bottom hose was now the temp of the top hose. The temp sensor for the car (and my aftermarket one) are in the rad top hose, so you will KNOW via gauges overheating if the thermostat truly isn't opening.

I had a NA+T Skyline that I bought when I knew very little, then put a GTT motor in it (not a NA+T) which was the smart decision. I did RB28 stroker kit, EFR Turbo and a Manual conversion. Now it has a 5.7L V8 in it and a T56. So skip all the lines and yourself a V8, OP. I will testify as a package it beats the everliving shit out of any other Skyline or engine combination, you could give me the keys to a R34 GTR and I would hand them right back as that car is nowhere near the same level of comfort or fun or performance or reliability or peace of mind or cost. So yeah, stay NA is what I am saying obviously. There's two types of people in the world, one who will stop, listen and think and benefit from other people's experience (both good and bad) and actual, genuine idiots. Threads like this help define what kind of person someone actually is.

Imagine how shit life gets before you seriously grab your phone and dial 000 for the police. Think about how out of control your life would be if you had to pick up the phone and make that call. Then imagine every moment from that point on being your work day. I remember a lovely lady cop telling me how she would rather not have to deal with people who have hit a tree at 125kmh with their body splattered all over things.... We're a very long way away in Australia relative to some other police states like the USA when it comes to police and (generally) how they act. Infact I'd wager with body cameras a lot of "mate just go home" that police currently and have issued won't happen anymore because they can't let people off the hook due to said recording.

The conversion cost is about ~1k-1500 for a mechanic to do if for you, so think closer to 3500-4K installed and running. After that your only issue is the auto steering wheel, but you can always use the buttons to trigger something if you want to get fancy. It is worth doing if you find a really nice auto 34 that is unmolested or has the (other) modifications you are looking at.

To put it in perspective, I was reading up about road course stuff and someone put a stat out there, in an average 20 minute track session, you're doing the equivalent of 75 drag passes on your car in 20 minutes. When people say "I've had 400kw for years and haven't had a problem" they are not doing say 375 drag passes in one day.

KW seem great until things explode and you get passed by a MX5 with 95kw cause that dude has done 180 reliable track days and has seat time. If you're building a track car, the engine should be the last thing you touch to modify at all, other than cooling ?

I had similar issues with a cracked block, multiple times. What was happening is on low rpm the coolant pressure was enough to get into the bores and cause a misfire. Rev the engine enough and combustion pressure was enough to push combustion gas into the coolant, so while it wouldn't miss... it was very obviously pressurizing the coolant. This will get worse before it gets better. Pepare yourself for replacement engine time. Misfires and Coolant being in places it should not be is never a good combination.