Kinkstaah

Forza is great stuff. It never arrives remotely on time (brakes direct are aware). Pads excellent too. That said, with CV I pretty much on the verge of refunding my purchase (in janurary) with some Raybestos pads. Buy in bulk

Buy back wreck, buy neatish 86, put all good bits in new car.

As above... a manual conversion (depending on where you are) is "easy" depending on your skill and budget etc. It sure is a lot easier to do than say, get a full respray, and costs far less. Other condition items are also a worry. If the auto is clean, and you want to keep the car (i.e won't be concerned that "amagad its been "converted so it will lose value") then it could very well be the right move.

Don't be so sure. The GT2860R was used in the MX5 SP, which was a 1.8 from the "Factory" GTR's run 2 of them, so 1.3L per turbo. It's a bit laggy but eh. They would probably be fine on a 3.2L motor for example running two.. So 1.6 may be alright. Worth trying in the very least.

Well maybe not you specifically - But people in that situation wanting to do it, is gonna be well served by looking for this. The later LS1's definitely hold up better than the gen3 (L98, L99 6.0's, and GENIV 6.3LS3) That said, the data seems to show you need to hold 1.2G+ for 4 seconds to start having oil pressure problems in the most plagued of them, being the LS3. This is a bit more relevent to a vette on 335 slicks turning left on say, an oval track or really really big sweeper than it would be in my scenario in 200 treadwear tyres. The only real corner that could be a problem with in Victoria is the sweeper at Winton. But yes, any engine spun hard on the track can (realistically will) have issues. Unless it's a MX5 motor basically.

The pick of the litter is the later block/LS6 bottom ends for 5.7's. All the 6.0's are derived from LS3's (i.e GENIVs) Initial LS1's from 99-00-01 etc aren't great in regards to oil control, piston slap etc. GM fixed these when they introduced the LS6 for the C5 Z06, then updated the block and its updates for all LS1's, so the differentiation between a LS6 was the 243 LS6 heads. But later LS1's were LS6's from the bottom end side of things. These LS1's in Australia got LS1 heads on "LS6" blocks. They were in the VY and VZ Commodores. You're looking for 1256116812561166 Stamped on the block.

^-- this is also a decent way. to do it. Probably the best way. There's many ways, I just meant to say that some minor work is required to get them to fit due to the different bolt size between GTT and the GT. This is one of the "GT is just ... lower specced" things, like different ABS system, different bolt on brakes, S15 axles, balbalbala.

Right after then, tools came out and things started coming out with them. After many years of removing bits and pieces from the car it was actually a sadly very rehearsed system by now, but it is always suprising how fast it is to take a car apart when you really don't have to consider a) It running again b) putting it back together again ever Obligatory "Before" picture: eeeeasy does it Ah yes, Turbo goodness. At this point I didn't actually have anything to put in yet, however I had done my research, or at least as much research as one can do before actually doing anything. There's various good and bad things about LS engines, and while SAU is pretty awesome, the amount of documentation across the pond in the USA about LS motors is simply staggering (it continues to surprise me). Luckily commodores in Australia mostly have the LS6 bottom end (conformable on casting marks from GM) which is the best available one for oil control on the track, which is a revision of the earlier LS1 block. Later LS's and GEN4's have oil control issues that make RB motors problems look like happy utopian dreams. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/autocrossing-and-roadracing/2824807-let-me-ask-another-way-who-s-ls3-hasn-t-blown-up-on-the-track.html So while POWERRRRR was on the cards with a GEN4/LS3 I opted to not go down that path in the attempt to future proof the idea, and keep things simpler and cheaper. The whole idea was to get the car *running* with a stock engine making about ~220 kw before attempting to do anything fun for power anyway, and I figured/assumed/had learned that no matter what, this carefully budgetted build would blow out beyond all expectations, and a LS1 'should' be easy to replace from gumtree in the event that it does explode/let go/develop some problem, and I liked the simplicity of having drive by cable instead of electric throttles, one more thing to convert, tune for, make work 'properly'. I got Engine and Transmission mounts from KE Conversions on FB, and they looked the goods and had plenty of fitment photos, as well as working with the stock Nissan Engine mounts. Given my goal was to get this engineered, being able to use a stock mount for the engine and gearbox was super beneficial. I also discovered my stock engine mounts were completely and utterly f**ked, so time to replace those courtesy of Kudos Motorsports. A week or so later, this arrived: About 4 seconds later, this happened: Commence: 'Oh yeah this could actually work' thoughts..

You do need to drill things to use the GTT brakes. The R34 GT (non turbo) uses R33 GTST sizing for things. You will be able to directly bolt R33 GTST brakes (front and rear) directly to a R34 GT. That said, the entirety of "Drilling things" is making one 12mm hole a 14mm hole. Source: Did this ?

Finding rims is actually pretty hard for these things as they have stupid offset (stock 18x8 is like +66!). The XR5 rims are the same size but their offset is.. +52? Something like that. XR5s also came in a very similar colour. It is a bit funny when I drive past one of them in this car, though the Renault is a much better car. At least to drive.. It has 203,000km and rising, as I'm driving it around as my daily right now with no immediate issues. I am open to reasonable negotiations re: price, welcome to go and give it an actual test drive through a mountain road if someone here is local and actually curious.

TBH there's merit in both approaches. Some (most?) cars have commonly failing electrical things, a motor here, a regulator there, a plug that falls apart there etc. Luckily? All the problems with Nissans and Skylines generally aren't that. They are pretty damn stout things given their age especially when they were built. The bad part is, when it does fail? It's time to go hunting as GTSBoy suggested.

Skylines have been doing sub 1:20's for many years, I remember old Big Red R32 videos cracking 1:16's. This is heavily driver and balls specific at least at Sandown... but yes M2's aren't actually that amazing in the real world. They will get dispatched quite easily by a Mustang with tyres: (which is what the PP2 setup is) https://www.caranddriver.com/features/a23319884/lightning-lap-times-historical-data/ M2's are at 1:22, 1:25 and 1:30, damn driver mod skewing the results

So, after driving around with an internet-happy and extremely well performing EFR and RB28 combo for awhile, as god intended (i.e manual), I had a bit of a realisation. ...... it was too much for the street. It was too laggy. In all my attempted fixes, I had always trended towards more response, less lag, faster throttle response. I also noticed on the street, I was turning the boost down to 11psi, and a very respectable 330kw. I also noticed for any time I went to the track, I was also turning the boost down to 11psi, for safety reasons or otherwise (lol misfires.) I then noticed that even with a 2.8, even with an EFR, that going from 0 throttle to WOT at 6000rpm still took a good ~1-1.5 seconds to actually hit full boost. I then asked myself if I would prefer that interval to be instant, for the tradeoff of only ever having about 300kw of max power. You know, the power I kept limiting myself to anyway for actual use. Then bad thoughts started happening. Thoughts of reading VASS Certification documentation, Vicroads laws and loopholes, earnestly researching "So yeah what exactly are the rules here?" It seemed dumb that a EFR 330kw setup was absolutely verboten, but a V8 in the car looked entirely legal.. ... and cheaper. ... and easier to replace. ... and significantly less stress on the motor.. I was a little tired of parking the car, and walking away, worrying about this noise, that clunk, that odd sound, that piece of trim falling off, etc. Truth be told, a fair bit of other things happened over the years on the car, but the priority of "please don't explode" took precedence. This was also compounded that (as noticed by my lovely gf) that I seemed to have much more fun driving other people's cars (like hers) mainly due to the fact I could enjoy them, instead of constantly worrying about them. This is where people usually just sell their car BUT NOT ME, CAUSE I'M STUPID! It was also about this time I got an enquiry about selling some of my totally not cursed car parts, and it all started looking dangerously plausible. I had second thoughts. I distinctly remember driving the 34 around after I took a deposit for the engine... and felt terrible. Sad. Like I had betrayed a friend. Like driving your pet to the vet knowing they are going to be put down. Surely it wasn't that bad was it? I also bought this: (which is now for sale btw) I thought: I will be without the 34 for a long time, I want something fun to drive around in during it, go to track days, etc with friends in the interim. It was unnervingly good, quiet, reliable, fast and most importantly... really fun. I was only about 1s slower at Winton in this Renault than I ever managed in the 34. So it pretty much put a huge base line in the ground saying: "You must be at LEAST this much fun/fast/generally OK to avoid being set on fire/sold" But in the end, the car went off the road, to a different place of surgery, namely the person who rebuilt my engine in the past, because no way was I going to tackle this on my own.. the research I can handle, and I can turn bolts, and I can wire things. But I sure as hell appreciate a second opinion when shit is really important. Here it is, or was, as it sat, when I took the first photo before.. uh, it's... transition. "Are you really gonna do this?"

In this scenario the best option is.... don't get a skyline They may look cool if you don't see them around all the time, but they don't stand up performance wise stock to anything else that you could get for $25K in Europe. Given how hard it is to mod them/bring them up to spec where you are, this is a compounding problem. You'd be better off with a Megane Cup or similar hot hatch from Europe for a multitude of reasons (performance, cost, availability of parts, local knowledge)

Not if you want AWD though. A GT FOUR is a great way to get a GTR, minus a body kit. Putting in the stag engine is the way to go. I would say if you do it right, a AWD Neo in there would be awesome. However, any GT FOUR I have ever seen is at least equal to the price of a GTT, especially a coupe. So I dunno. Not Australia?

Hi Folks You may be able to search for my rumblings and complaints over the years how my 1.5 way was a bit clunkier around town than your regular 1.5 way and how I wanted to fix that to no avail. Upon finding a unicorn R34 Helical, this diff is now for sale. As I know people would want to see the center before buying a rando diff, I took the cover off and found that it was actually a fkin 2 way diff the entire time. It was recently rebuilt from scratch to try and find "the problem" and of course there was none, which was... quite a lot of money not so well spent on my behalf, but hey this diff has been entirely rebuilt for your pleasure. Will bolt and plug in directly to your R34. I can confirm this thing locks up HARD in both Accel and Decel scenarios. You could use it on the street, I did for quite a long time it turns out and I did not die. However, I wouldn't recommend it for a daily. $1200 obo. Pickup strongly preferred!

This kind of explains the "Why do you really, really, really want a R34 front end?" question that many would be asking here.

I think they are good motors, it's just the case of blood from a stone. Any motor being asked to go 200-300% of what it left the factory with is, beyond any kind of reasonable expectation. A RB25DET making 260rwkw with all the right mods for track work and breathing would make for a shitty dyno graph on the internet, but last way, way, way longer, and that's still asking 170% of what it left the factory with!

HIlarious misfortunes aside, it's obviously not been all bad. Occasionally the car runs, and joyous occasions do actually occur! Uhhhh..... Greg... your car is blowing smoke at the track..... Catch can was full, problem went away.... and lets be honest, the IACV motor died (they die, pinning open) and I had a misfire problem meaning I had to run 9psi of boost maximum but look honestly at this stage of my car ownership I was at the track having fun and I put them firmly in to the WIN category! I put this photo in, my mental note thinking this was a time we all went out cruising the Great Ocean road and staying a few days in Warnambool..... only to be confronted by the fact I didn't bring the R34 with us on this trip because it was broken/off the road/conversion going on/something. Which my mind totally had no recollection of. This is probably pretty good allegory of my R34 ownership..Also MX5 Turbos are just awesome, no she doesn't let me mod it more than it currently is. I swear we did do the great alpine road with the Skyline, as I distinctly being unable to really spin the rears at the top of Hotham through the very high country noting it made suprisingly big difference, and following supercharged cars from 1979 with no cat generates one hell of a headache. Best track mod is definitely this though!! Yes, she is cooking sausages at the track day for everyone because "The canteen is no good, and boys don't eat they get up early, grab a coffee at 4am out the door and run on adrenaline and caffiene the whole day and that's no good!! People need food so they can stay focused and have fun on the track!!" My best drag run ever was an 11.9 with the old setup, which just left a ton of everything on the table, and that 11.9 was at like 103mph because an intercooler came off at about half track. And after every failed run (which was every run, due to intercooler pipes) a certain someone was under the car fixing it, putting hose clamps back together and generally providing relentless encouragement while I yarned on chatting to other random people at heatcote. I think most people would have happily struggled to get into the 11's but had the pitlane support than run a 10 and be there on their own, so as many things that have gone wrong, I know some really good people to make it all worth it. After all, all car stories are really just people stories. In any case the car has gone from: This: To this: (this made 430kw through an auto in this setup!) To.... this: To... this!: Actual cert number and VASS number removed for obbious reasons but ye. At some point I will write up (with pictures) the very long process in the above!

You did! But I assure that ARD alternator I bought had very little use, definitely didn't even come into the car at all in the timeframe all these stories are referencing. Did I ever mention I used to live in the USA, and was married over there, and that my now my ex-wife is born and raised in Louisiana, which has absolutely no significance for Voodoo curses at all. (I bought the car right when I landed in Australia, entirely unrelated)

I will eventually get to this but I wired my Varex into the steering wheel controls on a R34 GTT. The key is don't wire it into full closed or full open, wire something with a momentary switch, so wire something that has the same functions the buttons do. I.e "opening" when being held in a certain direction, and "Closing" when being held in the other. When not pressing any button, no option is selected and nothing is burned out. video-1560494721.mp4

I think in my case it wasn't actually the blanket itself, but oil residue/something along those lines, installed with dirty hands etc and it was that that got it all going. it was legit fire and flames and required a fire extinguisher, details in my build "thread" lol. So this may not apply to you, if you put it on right, clean, with new gloves, etc. I will say that the blanket crumbles into dust really satisfyingly if it does catch on fire, though.

Before Existed, running larger wires for a single pump (that kept f**king melting) was an issue. You could run the wires, but sealing the lid was another story. The rear seats of my car were off limits for most people due to the fumes. But it beat breaking down/lines melting/catching on fire. Just remember, no smoking. In efforts to make it seal I tried approximately every epoxy known to man to try and seal around the wires running through the lid. All failed, some better than others. Some were good vs Petrol, but died when I put Ethanol in. Some were good against Ethanol, but died under Petrol. It was really quite crazy. Once I used superglue, and glued my fingers together on one hand, like a claw. I did not own Acetone, so I drove 45 minutes across town to where my gf's lovely bestie had acetone handy to un-glue my hand. Unfortunately one of the things I used was superglue. This isn't a 34, but you can see where this is leading, superglue in this area didn't quite stay where I had hoped, and I managed to get Superglue, a really, really strong, industrial grade super glue in the threads between the black locking cap and the fuel bulkhead. And quite a lot, too. Eventually it was freed... at 3am.. on a Sunday/Monday morning, where yes of course I needed the car to get home. This music was actually playing on the radio at 3am on PBS. At this point we were more than happy to embrace any spiritual deity of any nature for any kind of blessing at all, to seal the holy heatshrink. Monk.mp4

I don't have photos for this, but I spoke to my mate about this thread and we got to reminiscing over other things that broke, but no photos were available, so it's gonna a handful of other scenarios where things may not have gone as planned. STORY TIME ----- Back in the day, on the original N/A car had a pretty gnarly diff whine. I mean it was LOUD. Because it was 2007 and we didn't know shit, there was a rumour that you could put a banana in a diff (presumably to thicken up the oil?) to see if this would aid anything and if it did, could give an idea as to what was wrong? In short, this does nothing. But yes, some hours were spent stuffing bananas into the diff, which actually isn't very easy at all, and you have to ask yourself questions like "Do they mean the skin? Do they ONLY mean the skin? What about the actual... banana part? Both? Only the banana part?" The internet was silent on this. ----- My car had a running joke/test where I would only be happy with it if it managed to get to the top of Mt Donna Buang (victoria) without a problem* A problem being some reason I had to pull over or noticed something was wrong. Realistically this meant boost hoses coming off, breaking, some weird noise, something overheating, etc. In any case the scorecard was up to 7-0 (in the mountain's favour, including a couple of serious breakages.. one of the tow pics is on the way back), but the very first time the car actually made it up, I was understandably jubilant until there was smoke, I was dismissive, but My lovely girlfriend wasn't, and asked me to pop the bonnet to at least check it out. When I did so, I opened the bonnet to find my turbo blanket literally on fire. So Lexi run to the passenger door, pulled out the fire extinguisher and doused the whole engine bay with a fire extinguisher. This is a normal thing, totally happens to everyone, all the time with cars, not sure why its worth a mention but someone told me I should mention it. I even sold the gear later as "only been on fire once", because it is REALLY HARD to try and remove fire extinguisher residue! ----- I mentioned that I had gone through many fuel pumps earlier, and some of these melted due to wiring (aka outside barwon prison) whereas others actually simply died, ground themselves in to dust. I went through a phase where I was pulling out the pump, cleaning the filter on it outside of the car and putting it back in once every 2 weeks or so, and it was clogged with shit. Every time. And the bizarre thing is it kept happening, even though the fuel tank had cracked and been replaced.. twice!. When this happened for the third tank we decided to pull the tank out and clean it, which involved us basically filling the tank with kerosene and other caustic liquids, and shaking the tank above our heads for 30 minutes each, alternating with this superbrew of hell inside it in the hopes of breaking things down. When we eventually emptied this we found about 50 leaves in the tank as well as a whole bunch of gunk. But not being people for half measures, we forcibly flushed kerosene through the fuel lines with a high pressure washer, to really, really, absolutely, clean them out. This actually worked, as the foulness that came out of them was beyond belief. We then eventaully put the car back together, and relaxed feeling happy we had finally solved that one. Except what we didn't know is how desensitised we'd become to the smell of Kerosene through dealing with it the whole day/weekend. I drove the car to work on Monday in an underground parking lot for work. Half way through the day the site got evacuated due to property services investigating the horrific smell coming from the car - The kerosense was so strong that you could smell it from a good 30m away from the actual car, enough that you couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from. So yeah I didn't let anyone smoke near my car for quite some time. ----- One weekend, work was going on with cars in general, as was the tradition. Being in Frankston, fish and chip shops are abundant, and a great source of nutrients for hungry guys working on cars until well after they realised they actually needed something to eat. As said car was finally working, with us finishing whatever it is we were fixing/doing we decided to take the 34. I let my mate drive, it's not his car (his car could have a whole thread, much cooler than mine!) because hey why not. 3 minutes into the 10 minute trip... the car alarm starts going off, while driving at 60/80kmh in the middle of Seaford/Frankston area. Horns, sirens, flashing headlights, the lot. Nothing was said in the cabin. We calmly pull up to the fish and chip shop, sirens blaring, lights going mental, parked in angle parking right infront of the glass window of the shop. Get out of car, walk to the counter, make our fish and chip order like it was any other Saturday afternoon, car going completely mental 4 meters away. Nothing was said by the fish and chip shop attendants in the ~10-15 minutes that all fish and chip shops take to make an order, as is tradition. Other customers in the shop, sitting around, flipping through terrible magazines, car going completely mental outside the window, noone says anything. Collect fish and chip order, return to car, car starts because, I don't know, I guess the immobilizer is also not working, and you can also start the car while the car alarm is actually going off. Casually driving home, nothing is said. Regular traffic, people going on about their day. Pull up to a light on Frankston-Dandenong road, alarm still going mental. Oh look, a police car. Oh look, a police car, pulling up directly next to us at the lights. No response. Still nothing said by anyone involved. Light goes green, police car calmly drives on, we also do the same, our paths diverging naturally after a few minutes, as you do. Just before we pull up at James' place, he calmly says to me: "I really hope you know how to disable that" ----- I am sometimes a forgetful person, and the nature of my forgetfulness is completely random. Another time, another Saturday afternoon, sitting around on couches, watching shit on TV, having lunch. Haven't actually done anything with the car this time, been sittng around for hours just talking shit and generally just chilling. Probably been there a good 4-5 hours now. There's a knock on the door. Strange. Saturday at 3pm? Who's knocking on doors in Frankston. Not my place, so James goes to answer the door. Sketchy looking dude (Frankson) outside. Maybe homeless. He's got my car keys in his hand. "Hey mate do you any of you blokes own the car out the front?" "These keys were just hanging out the door mate, someone could just come along and nick it especially round these parts!!" "Thought I'd do the right thing and ask around!" We ended up giving this guy a burger or two and some drink for his troubles. The internet would have you believe that these cars are theft and police magnets. I'm not so sure..

Sorry Duncan, the second post was just random photos of broken scenarios in no particular order, and the first one was pretty light on the retelling. If I went into detail about all of the things in chronological order it would be so much stuff that making it accurate would be pretty rough. I never set out of my way to document any of this, these are literally just photos of random things along the way, and my shaky memory over the past decade. It will get more chronological (and boring) as it all gets closer to where the car currently actually is. This is where my opinions about what the internet says works, and my experience kind of diverge, The truth is nothing ever failed in spectacular fashion (this is a lie, stories below lol). It was just making huge power and the weak point seemed to be the actual neo blocks, every failure (even going back and checking one of the original blocks that failed) all failed in the same way, internal cracks in the bore caused by suspected wild cylinder pressure. The car kept making power when it got more timing, and E85, it was "happy" to make power and kept on doing so, have a look at the dyno sheets somewhere in the photos above. "You can just put a gate on the manifold/turbo housing" "Get the smallest turbo for your power goal" "Run enough timing until the engine won't make more power" This is kind... of accurate, but if you really push it you may run into problems. Half of the reason I kept changing turbos (and eventually manifold, and eventually running a lot less timing) were measures to address this, and in the end it was actually running pretty solidly.