Kinkstaah

7163 would be a goer. All the efr series need a t3->t4 adapter of some kind. Perhaps that can be done with the G series, they are physically much smaller too.

Honestly can't think of a better turbo I'd be bolting into the stock location for those goals.

... do they not start with RB25, RB20, RB30? That was why I stuck around with a 2.8 for years as opposed to just going 3L. Maybe it is a SA thing but here in VIC the full number is registered.

18x9.5 won't fit in +30, you will run VERY close to hitting the inner suspension. I had 18x9.5 +27 and man I needed those extra 3 mm. 18x9 +35 will fit, will be further in and may not need a guard roll. 18x9 +30 is probably the benchmark in terms of wheel orientation with "flush with the guards". Would need rolling to fit depending on your width of tyre on said 9in rim.

I would prefer a 7670 with 1.05 vs a 8374 with a .92. You very rarely regret going the larger rear, the harder you drive the car the more you will appreciate having some extra breathing room with the turbine housing. Note: Either turbo is well into the category of "driven hard". Get the 1.05, go EWG. It will be a healthier result even if the boost comes on 100rpm later, it will be a better thing to drive.

If you contact Tao ask him if he can source a RB20 turbo for you (for the additional cost). He may give you a rebate when you return your turbo to him. He also may choose to not do those things. I realise we are in a thread by him, about his products where he posted 3 posts ago, but send him a PM as he is very responsive to them.

These cars are just dreadful for a P plater for many reasons. a) Slow if N/A b) Slow stock as turbo nowdays c) Old d) Prob not the safest thing e) Illegal to drive f) Expensive g) Unreliable Everyone involved will be disappointed going down this path.

The thing is, ultimately if "I have to get a dump pipe/exhaust fabricated" removes the thing from being a viable choice... then sad to say it/budget is not ready. The rest of it requires far far more time, money and thought than the dump pipe fitting up. "Just get a dump made up" is about as much as anyone thinks about this particular issue because it is a 1 second throwaway, obvious answer at no/minimal cost. I get that it may be harder to obtain in the USA or find a fabricator where you are, but that just means all the more expensive, more complicated stuff is going to be equally hard or harder to find.

You almost never get better results (or results that are worth it) from cutting any corner ever in a turbo setup. If making a dump pipe up is too expensive/hard/unfeasible due to cost the best answer is wait, or get a highflow turbo made up and shipped by Hypergear (though I am not sure what he suggests for a RB20DET).

If 98 is a restriction than that kind of power with "no worse than current" response is impossible. That said, something 8374 sized is going to be a minimum requirement if 98 is a must have. With an 8k rev limit the 8374 is going to be my vote too. I had a 7670 on a 2.8 and it was nosing over up top at about 6800rpm. This was OK for me as mine was a RB25 based 2.8, not a RB26 based motor. This may or may not be perfect if you prefer revving to 7500 instead of 8500 depending on the kind of RB26 owner you are ? To be on the safe side of everything I would be thinking something 8374 sized is likely the best compromise of running things with safe overheads.

Likely cause the car was never driven on the road and it was only towed to a drift event and a motokhana, its use was primarily for the track as Alex has too much money. ?

Would it? if the width of the tyres is the same I don't think going from say a 265/35/17 to a 265/35/18 will affect much other than looking "odd"

Also splitfires will more than handle that kind of power. I am a big advocate of the responsive 280-320kw being the peak happiness per $ spent driving mark for any R chassis skyline. It's a lot to ask from any 2.5-2.8l turbo engine if you want to ask it for a lot.

GTX3076 is a pretty solid choice for a turbo. It's not the worlds best, but it's far from bad in the grand scheme of things. It can certainly generate enough power to destroy your motor. Skyline builds really fall into two categories, one being your ~250-350kw mark where a) Clutches last longer, easy to drive b) Rear grip is plausible c) Lag is not too bad d) Single fuel pumps work on E85 or Gasoline e) Can arguably get away with stock manifolds, low mounting, stockish type looks f) Stock engine internals last longer (not forever) Going above that means points a to f and likely many I have forgotten need to be addressed "addressing" these means you advance the weak point to whichever problem you addressed least. It is rarely more expensive at that point to aim at 500KW instead of 351KW and ends up being a "replace everything" type of thing. There is no setup that will work at 550kw that will work at 250-300kw unless it is a 550kw setup that has been turned down massively which is going to be sub optimal anyway as the turbo choice needs to be suited to your intended power. The smartest thing anyone can ever do is make an informed decision about what they want, and stay on target. Everything else is going to make you sad and broke.

The above information is very good, just keep in mind the wiring of the Walbro requires some love. Nothing crazy, plenty of people have done it without issues, but it's not as simple as "just connect to stock wiring" which lower pumps may be. I don't know if the DW340 is in that category either, but it is something to keep in mind. Turbo choice is critical for a turbo car (duh). Clutch and Gates and setup may/may not be something to keep in mind depending on how future proof you want your goal to be, i.e 300-400hp on the way to 700. It is exponentially better to go for the end goal from day one. It is also exponentially better/cheaper/more fun for your $ for that target to be the 400hp one instead of the 700hp one. I am yet to hear of anyone ever regretting upgrading an ECU. Link G4+ or a Haltech Elite, if you can get something that is plug in you will be doing yourself a massive, massive, massive, massive favour.

You will need the series 1 headlight supports (the black things that go/bolt onto the main reo bar) You can re-use the main reo bar, but you need the black headlight supports on each side to fit the front bar. You will also need the series 1 headlight plates that bolt to the top of the front bumper. The S2 ones are taller as there's a space for the grill in the S2 bar.

They absolutely do fit - They also are the same part for the 33 and S15 - they all have the same part number. If you want to confim check with kudos motorsports or someone selling them/getting them from Japan etc. I am only 99% sure but I recall all the plastic tanks are the same part, as I have swapped them before.

These are now sold!

I made similar power on 98 with this turbo, its bigger than most people think it is.

Or the Govt. The amount of hassle involved in having 1 (one) standard (emphasis on standard) drink and then immediately being forced to go home. We're talking hours and hours of meetings and negotiation here, to move it from 0 to 1, it was previously going back a few years something like 4-5. At least this is where your taxes aren't going ?

I legitimately think a R33 GTST looks better than a RX7.

I have never, ever, EVER heard of ANYONE EVER Leaving IT and regretting doing so. Source: Been in IT since 2000, asking 100% of colleagues who have left IT.

The info on them is shaky at best unfortunately as they really arent that popular a build for reasons I'm not too sure on either. The AWD 25neo from stagea into a GT-Four is a sure fire winning combo, though I would expect (just hunches) that you will find several things that are NA-spec and not GTR spec. If you must assume, assume NA but definitely the way to go is to examine the thing thoroughly before you decide to tinker with it. A lot of the things that people say are the same, aren't with R34's, Series 1 vs Series 2 differences in parts that "are the same and have the same part number" see also: NA vs GTT parts. Hope for the best (yay GTR spec things) but plan for them not to be, and DEFINITELY budget for them not to be, to be safe. But if you get your hands on the car and start looking, you're likely to be the most knowledgeable guy around about them lol

There's a big thread on them - I bought and used and then sold an ARD 150amp alternator and it works exactly as it should, and bolts directly in, 100%, no dramas whatsoever in any way. 10/10 would use again except I... am doing a LS engine conversion so lol. ARD150 definitely better than the OEM 80 one.

R34/R33/S14/S15 Hardrace front castor arms. For when you want so much castor you give no more f***s about your inner guard linings and want as much caster as possible without it moving around over a bump.Removed because I sadly do care about my inner guard liners and need no such caster now, Work absolutely perfectly. Has marks and scratches as seen as you'd expect from used suspension components and I can't fathom the buyer who buys aftermarket suspension items and wants them to look unused or doesn't plan on using them...Will ship, prefer local however if plausible. $200