Kinkstaah

I agree, after using them on the track I had this problem after half a session pulling back into the pits But some people use them with little to no issues After I discussed the above photo with Brakes Direct, they sent me a set of DBA XP, but they also said they didnt have a great deal of info on them either, They should at least work for the street, but they are rated a bit tougher than the A1RM but fill the segment the A1RM is 'supposed' to be filling. If you have them, and have nothing else its worth a go. Worst that can happen is you buy another set of pads for track days which is hardly the worst plan to have..

They are actually a new pad designed by DBA to enter into that market. I got a set for free from Brakes Direct due to my Forza pads taking near forever (7 months!) to ship from Italy, which was an issue on the Forza end, not the Brakes Direct end. However, I haven't tried them as my car is laid up right now. They SHOULD sit in that light track/A1RM/FP3 kind of segment. They should be well into the whole "Well I'm about to go to the track for the first time but want something semi-streetable..." kind of thing.

This is where I say buy Jussi's sedan and sell commodore, etc etc.

Intercooler pipe gone or blown turbo. Don't *try* and make boost in this scenario, surefire way to actually kill the turbo by spinning it too hard as it'll try and make 500psi on its way to making 0psi.

Honestly, the best way to do it is buy someone's project you can vouch for. There are no unmolested virgin R34's, nor should there be, and the ones that may exist are absolutely not worth the $.

Kerbs are not really your friend on a racetrack. Not really. They do stuff like that more often than they don't, every track has a couple of 'safe' ones and yeah the rest uh.... avoid to .. avoid stuff like the above happening!

+1 for this. That said, have used WITHOUT gps receiver, still gets pretty good/usable/awesome data. Would try it on its own first nowadays with updated/modern phones.

I have to ask, what wheels and size are those? The original ones. The ones you were replacing. The OEM+ look you're referencing looks really nice. From experience, 450rwkw + reliable is uh.... it's going to be a tough ask depending on what you refer to as 'reliable'. Consider selling a child or two or maybe a house to get there.

Is this car actually stock? I saw this behaviour when I had a R34 GTT and someone had replaced the standard triple gauges (in the center) with aftermarket gauges. However they had just repurposed the OEM wiring and sensors, so all the gauges read incorrectly. Given the car does NOT have a stock temperature gauge that reads (in C) how hot the car is, it makes me wonder if these are aftermarket gauges that are setup incorrectly. But I definitely remember the oil one - It read very similar numbers to that until I changed the sender to the correct sender.

My gf has a MX5 with Famous which met an unfortunate end. The claim process was actually really quite painful, to the point of us having to submit news articles and information from the bureau of meteorology that it was actually raining the day of the accident, even though there was a pretty obvious tree-shaped hole in the front of the car. (She hit a tree on a nature strip!) They did eventually pay out the insurance, though, but for some reason they went full audit on her particular claim in a way I've not really seen from any other insurer.

^--- almost certainly yes. Keep in mind the NA car has quite a few other things missing from the turbo one. Bracing, Traction control, various other sensors, triple gauge cluster in the center for things like you know, a boost gauge, oil temp. The NA car's oil warmer/heater block has no provision for a Oil temp sensor, etc, blocked from factory. I say this as I originally had a NA Series 2 and put a turbo engine into it. The thing is the information isn't there online as you've probably found. When you start doing things that noone has done before, or decided against they are often the wrong thing to do. The ECU is the same so it stands to reason that the pinouts and wiring for the loom will be the same. With all the issues I had over the years, not one was a "Hmmm maybe the S1 loom is different" then again, I may have not actually had a S2 Neo in my car anyway. The differences are that slight you'd almost never be able to truly know. This kind of stuff is why "Buy a turbo car" is the answer. You'd then know 10000000% that the loom does match up, and it's already wired, and correctly running, you have the extra gauges you need and the various chassis bits under the car to cope with the turbo motor. The biggest problem with these cars is the amount of time people spend figuring out how to make it work with them sitting in garages, instead of being out on the road enjoying them.

Well, it's easier if it's a manual. The easiest way, for sure, no doubt, and still the best thing to do is move all of the cosmetic mods into a Turbo car. I had/have a S2 car and there's quite a few things that 'the internet says should be the same' but aren't. That said, I can't actually recall too many of them, things like indicator stalk plugs etc are different. However, if you have the technical know how to swap a motor and swap a loom and ECU then the differences on a plug's moulding aren't going to stop you. But to return to the first point... if you DO have the technical know how to swap a motor and swap a loom and convert an ECU, you'd know that the best way to approach this is swap the bodykit over to the turbo car 10/10 times.

I have had things fail in 1-2 stops. I had the same problem mentioned above with a1rm's in a 5 minute session at Broadford, and Sandown is far tougher.. Road is not track. Most tracks don't come close to the torture on a car's cooling and braking systems that Sandown does. I can't see toooooo many comfy OEM manufacturers putting pads on any car that are great for Sandown. I'm not saying don't give it a go, but there's a chance that if you do, you may do one session and leave because it's pointless continuing... so if you can get ahead of it, its worth looking into. Even if you buy track pads and such to swap out for the day then go about merrily on road pads afterwards for the road.

Dumb question, but is it Manual?

+2 or +3? to Sandown, I would not trust stock hardware there. Even as a STI, I would be changing pads, Fluid and Tyres to 200TW anythings, at a minimum before even thinking about entering. Unless it came from the factory with a crate for track specific stuff, or an OEM roll cage, OEM stuff + Sandown = no good. No good to the point of doing 1-2 semi flying laps and realizing you have burned your money not-good.

Can we at least all agree that 20in non-performance tyres are going to cause unwanted skids tho ? 245/255/265 in Yokohama AD08R Nitto NT05 Michelin Pilot Sport 4S (245 only in 18) Hankook RS4 Federal RS-RR Problem solved. ?

Width and Brand of tyres is not the only thing. If you somehow do not have grip you have chosen very badly when it comes to tyres and perhaps the rims that said tyres sit on (limiting choices of good tyre) No major engine mods means maximum 180kw. You should be able to maintain the car hooking up to the ground under full noise at nearly double that power. That's how far away from a "good" tractive setup your setup currently is. When people recommend sticky tyres and 18's or 17's the difference would be astronomical. You shouldn't be able to do a power skid on a stock power R34 pretty much ever.

I bought one recently (and have for sale, they are fairly expensive). Smashing the fan into something and then causing sound is a problem. You can usually see the fan not spinning straight on the hub if its fked. If its louder than the exhaust genuinely (and absolutely ISNT hitting anything.....) then yes replace it ASAP.

Best car under 10k? Renault Megane. Buy mine if you want lol. Even I haven't been able to break it yet. It is offensively good in the hills for the $. Literally offensive.

The reason I ask is it'd be strange to have a wideband, and a modifyable ecu, and have a 9:1 AFR on full boost unless as mentioned a bit above, still running stock map. But even then the base map wouldn't be that far out unless something is decidedly not stock anymore, like injectors, or the AFM isn't what the powerFC thinks it is. The answer really is tune it. If not comfortable and it's getting a tune anyway, drive it to the tuner very conservatively and have the spark plugs ready to go when it's going on the dyno ? Any issues (if any!) will become more apparent once the AFR is under control.

9 AFR on boost is uh, plenty rich. But how do you know it's running 9:1? If you have the means to accurately determine that... and a powerFC you should be able to lean it out to a far more reasonable AFR. That said, that will be the first thing the tuner does. I would consider having a spare set of plugs handy if the car is driving around on 98 with a 9:1 AFR because they will foul up pretty quickly and you'd hate to be caught out on the Dyno like that.

Damnit, I was too slow to say "It says GTT on the back of the car" See also, GTST, GTS, GTS4 etc on other cars.

I remember vaguely (months ago) when I did this, I initially hooked the R33 GTST speed sensor into the wiring loom for the wrong auto speed sensor, as you have described the R34 GTT auto loom has wiring for two sensors as the auto has two "speed sensors". Unfortunately I'm in no position to get under my car and check it out, but I do remember getting it backwards and going 'aha' upon consulting both diagrams (i.e manual gtst box and R34 GTT)

My car was auto and we wired controls into the steering wheel (i.e we had an aftermarket transmission ECU and wanted to use the shift paddles to actually shift). The thing we noticed is after using the wiring "after" the clock spring (i.e not changing anything on the wheel itself or the clock sping itself) that the up and down on each side are linked. There's actually only two outputs to ground on the wheel as opposed to 4. That worked well enough natively for us as we wanted "shift up" and "shift down" but without any detail whatsoever I remembered thinking/noting down that there was only going to be 2 functions that I could map to the wheel later, as I had visions of mapping it to launch control switches etc once the car was manual. Car is manual now but I can't find a use for all the buttons anymore, I've made it all too simple

It's all fixable There's a certain amount of satisfaction in salvaging a previously unloved car that didn't quite get what you feel it deserved.