Kinkstaah

I think the concept is highlighting the various scenarios where thicker oil helps, and thicker oil potentially doesn't help and only generates heat and costs power, in turn for safety which isn't actually any safer (unless you're going real hot). If anything this does highlight why throwing Castrol 10w-60 for your track days is always a solid, safe bet.

I don't think there's any way someone is push starting this car.. I honestly can barely move it, and moving it and steering it is just flat out not possible. I'm sure it is, but needs a bigger man than me. I have a refurbished starter now. The starter man was quite clear and consise showing me how nothing inside a starter really should contribute to slow cranking, and turned out that for the most part... my starter was entirely fine. Still, some of the wear items were replaced and luckily it didn't show any signs of getting too hot, being unfit for use, etc. Which is 'good'. I also noticed the starter definitely sounded different, which is a bit odd considering nothing should have really changed there.... Removed and refit, and we'll pretend one of the manifold bolts didn't fully tighten up and is only "pretty" tight. GM only wants 18ft/lb anyway. I also found a way to properly get my analog wideband reading very slightly leaner than the serial wideband. There's Greg related reasons for this. The serial output is the absolute source of truth, but it is a total asshole to actually stay connected and needs a laptop. The analog input does not, and works with standalone datalogging. Previously the analog input read slightly richer, but if I am aiming at 12.7 I do not want one of the widebands to be saying 12.7 when the source of truth is 13.0. Now the source of truth will be 12.65 and the Analog Wideband will read 12.7. So when I tune to 12.7 it'll be ever so slightly safer. While messing with all of this and idling extensively I can confirm my car seems to restart better while hot now. I did add an old Skyline battery cable between the head and the body though, though now I really realise I should have chosen the frame. Maybe that's a future job. The internet would have you believe that this is caused by bad grounds. In finding out where my grounds actually were I found out the engine bay battery post actually goes to the engine, as well as a seperate one (from the post) to the body of the car. So now there's a third one making the Grounding Triangle which is now a thing. I also from extensive idling have this graph. Temperature (°C) Voltage (V) 85 1.59 80 1.74 75 1.94 70 2.1 65 2.33 60 2.56 55 2.78 50 2.98 45 3.23 40 3.51 35 3.75 30 4.00 Plotted it looks like this. Which is actually... pretty linear? I have not actually put the formula into HPTuners. I will have to re-engage brain and/or re-engage the people who wanted more data to magically do it for me. Tune should be good for the 30th!

Welp, I have been driving it around (a bit) and messing with idle and return to idle characteristics. This is all well and good until I discovered my starter motor... is nearly dead. This is unfortunately after I booked my exhaust and tune in. This is the new section of my exhaust, after losing my mind with vbands and clamps. Yes I now have 4 mufflers. The two middle ones are 5in body 3in pipe round straight through mufflers or incorrectly named 'resonators' whatever you want to call. How does it sound? Muffled. Car runs richer now in low load. Is it restriction? Or lack of exhaust leaks. I also figured out a way to make the Analog Readout match the serial WB Readout. All of this requires a car to you know.. *start* to tune the maths, which was not ideal when I needed it to get to the exhaust shop and back. It started when cold. 30 mins after the car got home, it was time to get stuck into it. Unfortunately this thing has no identifying marks on it at all. I contacted Mal Wood and asked if he could send me a replacement and he asked me to remove it because they've changed starters with their kits a few times over the years. I asked other companies with LH LS starter conversions and they all use different starters unique to their kits. I did find CAE performance supply Mal Wood - But they are out of stock for this starter for the next 3 weeks. The tune is booked for Friday 30th. Here's hoping the local starter motor repair place (which interestingly has a 5 star review from Trent @ Chequered) can get this rebuilt/sorted out so I can get it on and put the car on the dyno. Here's hoping!

I mean, the 240i is not a Supra... make it drop a few hundred kg, have a sportscar chassis, clearance for wheels etc... Maybe I want a hardtop Z40i XDrive or something :p I do agree with you though and have long said the B58 Supra/240i/340i/440i is the new R Chassis/JDM90's turbo rocket for mod lovers to ... not always appreciative response lol. Doesn't make it not true though.

AWD MK5 Supra when?

You sweet summer child, if only you knew the intricacies of the world of LS you would come around to the lego construction of them and truly praise the LS1, the greatest of all. This of course depends on your use case. That said, LS7 is actually down towards the bottom of the list. The amount of info on the subject puts SAU's 20 year knowledgebase on RB's and R chassis to shame.

Fuel use with a LS is about the same as a RB. Slightly better than a modified RB with a responsive turbo. :p You'd need another excuse to not go LS (there is no excuse to not go LS)

these are not the same

All motors are consumables. This thing costs $250,000-500,000 and makes 640hp/430 KW, naturally asipirated. It has a competitive advantage in being more reliable than other cars it competes against. They rate these engines in hours before rebuilds. Are you going to out-engineer half million GT3 car manufacturers in a garage? People really need to be honest with what they are going to do, and remember that 99.9% of the people on the internet are not honest with how they use their car and what it holds up to and how much power it makes and how easy/hard it was. Anyone worrying about the block limit of anything is the kind of person that will be unable to do a single track day, for example, perhaps not even a single session. Build the kind of car you would want to have if you could never tell a single soul about it and nobody would ever know.

I'd leave the series 2 bumper on there. Anything else is gonna be a bit janky TBH :p (or at least keep it)

I mean from V8 world there are gains to be made in intakes and such over stock items, but definitely only if you tune them. We're talking about I dunno, 10kw here and there on a 300KW v8, gains made by tuning in the 0.2 AFR that it changes so YES but also no you won't notice it other than the sound. Duct the air as mentioned 750,000 times and you will notice happier IAT's which definitely make a difference N/A. I mean my unsubstantiated guess is you'd go from 140kw with everything stock (after cams) to 145kw with everything and a tune :p

Hey, it's me! Though honestly, if I had 20M in my bank account tomorrow, I would not want to be rid of my car all of the sudden - Which makes me think this is money stuff, not "I actually hate car" stuff. I'd probably double down and buy even more trinkets and fun things for it. If this is not you, then sell it cheaper. It will sell at a certain price after all.

Of course it would be - But you shouldn't be here.

I'm going with "Just run two gates". Fix the problem conclusively. It's the only way you'd ever truly know, right?. This is all pretty much splitting hairs. Even the extreme example where it takes two whole seconds at 100kmh or something sounds monstrously dubious. And anyway, when you're punching the throttle when you 'need' this power, you aren't at 2800rpm in the wrong gear. Test it at 5600rpm in 3rd gear, when you're traction limited punching out of a sweeper. Much difference there when you account for traction?

If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.

Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.

It was really refreshing though... but I also agree.

I should have prefaced all of this with "I'd really like to not pull anything out of the car for this"

Yeah - I tried throwing the formulas from ChatGPT and it tried it's best as it told me that the Formula in HPTuners as requested is a Linear function, but the original data I provided it (resistance to temp) is not linear and thus it kept trying to suggest formulas that would be more accurate in regions I actually want it to be accurate in. But I didn't quite understand it at the time. I have now thrown the data into graphs and can clearly see they're all different shapes. Given it's an oil temp sensor I probably want it to be most accurate between 80 and 120c - So I don't really see much alternative other than driving the hell out of the car and letting it cool down from 120C, noting the voltage on the sensor as it chills out. But at that point if I write it down, well, I'll be able to know this from the voltage. Would look pretty stupid on a datalog or a video showing me going down the straight at 0.265V Oil temp

So to further complicate things or hopefully explain better: This is a VDO sensor. It clearly does this math inside the gauge itself... because it displays a temperature in C to me instead of a voltage. The signal wire to the gauge is in Volts, not Ohms. I have just teed into this and sent it to the ECU. ChatGPT spat this out: Temperature (°C) Thermistor Resistance (Ω) Voltage Output (V) -40 36563.56 4.973962698 -35 26284.63 4.963854097 -30 19149 4.950518086 -25 14127.68 4.933166097 -20 10504.68 4.910527969 -15 7721.35 4.879055954 -10 5720.88 4.838133512 -5 4284.03 4.786165799 0 3240.18 4.721119717 5 2473.6 4.640900563 10 1905.87 4.543692515 15 1486.65 4.429695182 20 1168.64 4.296344225 25 926.71 4.144091368 30 739.98 3.972492431 35 594.9 3.782907287 40 481.53 3.577860996 45 392.57 3.361217186 50 322.17 3.136573398 55 266.19 2.908608143 60 221.17 2.68039363 65 184.72 2.455599277 70 155.29 2.239608872 75 131.38 2.035132288 80 112.08 1.846579676 85 96.4 1.674774149 90 82.96 1.511882199 95 71.44 1.359001674 100 61.92 1.222169588 105 54.01 1.100403407 110 47.24 0.989775394 115 41.42 0.889528391 120 36.51 0.800974069 125 32.38 0.723478416 130 28.81 0.654148313 135 25.7 0.591893137 140 23 0.536380597 145 20.68 0.487551867 150 18.59 0.442640126 155 16.74 0.40213318 160 15.11 0.365841848 165 13.66 0.333073247 170 12.38 0.303758956 175 11.25 0.277572169 180 10.24 0.253917873

Alright. Exhaust has been looked at, and booked in 'soon'. I'm not 100% convinced it's going to be as good as possible but I'm going to go with it anyway. If I get a reasonable thing that works for 10 years I mean that's twice as long as I've lived with the current one. I have a more pressing issue. I have fixed my MPVI3 (by buying a new one). Excellently, one can wire in analog 0-5v inputs to the ECU itself. I had wideband already via Serial so I also wired it in via the direct input. The idea being I can use the standalone logging without a laptop and have Wideband data in it. The other wire I thought I'd use oil temp. This is where I've gone crazy. HPTuners requires you to implement a formula so you know how much volts = how much temp. This seems relatively simple to me. However I cannot find the scale for this anywhere on the internet, nor decipher how to figure it out without removing the sensor from the car. All I know is that voltage actually goes up as temperature goes down. I am using the actual gauge, so I can see what the temp is. The signal wire has been branched off into the MPVI3. EXAMPLE: 2.68v = 58C 2.7 = 57C 2.74v = 56C 2.8V = 54C 3.06V = 49C 3.18V = 47C 3.37V = 43C I think the gauge is 50-150C. It may be more. It may be less, because I can't find it for the love of f**k. It appears all the information about the gauges I have has been scoured from the internet, but the sender is VDO 320.021 I believe the resistance chart is this How the f**k do I convert this to a voltage? Once I have a voltage... I then have to perform this transform of said voltage to show it in the scanner: https://www.hptuners.com/help/VCM-Scanner/Content/vcm_scanner/defining_a_transform.htm @GTSBoy you're probably my only hope here TEST YOUR MIGHT

My idle is set at 950rpm though - Moving the timing around 20 degrees is not really what I'd call a calm idle. That said... neither is chop, by definition. The LS ECU likes to adjust timing to hold idle as opposed to air. It'd work, but generally speaking there'd be a discrepancy in the base idle and the IACV would want to move the timing around anyway to maintain said idle. I think I'm just going to keep the timing steady anyway. Preserve my engine mounts. My aircon is now officially regassed. As the guy was reversing I noticed my reverse lights do not operate, along with my reverse cam. This is a bit distressing, because 100% of guides talk about which wire to connect to backup cams as "the goes with the [other color] wire". Often when doing conversions. Unfortunately the R34 colour wires aren't documented Unfortunately I had a T56 Magnum gearbox with it's reverse switch, which also isn't documented. Unfortunately there's definitely not documentation for people with both of these in the one car. Unfortunately I forgot. After many hours of this, I have a reverse cam and reverse lights again. The wire going through the trans tunnel to the reverse switch had broken. Upon inspection, it looks like this one wire had about 7 spade terminals and extensions in it.. for reasons I cannot possibly comprehend. I also spent the 750 hours required to clean up the wiring behind my head unit which now looks like this: This is a monumental improvement relative to what used to be there WRT triple gauges, head unit, traction control, wideband controller, and whatever the f**k OEM stuff still exists there in various states of connectivity/needed. Next step is to check in at the Exhaust shop to see/confirm how much clearance I have, to decide what mid mufflers or 'resonators' (which are just straight through, narrower mufflers) I can add and hopefully cut out a lot of exhaust leaks, pinhole, v-band or otherwise. But first step will be to 'take a look' before the next step.

Take this with a pinch of salt, it's from someone (me) who got annoyed with turbos entirely. I hated aftermarket lines. If I had the option to use hardlines with whatever turbo I had - I would use them, 10/10, 100% of the time. The only reason people go larger, heat resistent, shielded lines etc is because they have to. And yes they don't last forever. Even if you spend big bucks on all the best heat shielding money can buy, with the best heat resistant, fuel resistant, oil resistant, radiation resistant hose, they get stiff and break down and just don't last the way a metal pipe will.

Welp, you've got a long list of experiences right there. I'd say you're on the right path.

I know it's an entirely different engine, but I noticed practically 0 difference removing or adding 2x 3in (5inch body) 400cell cats (one in each bank) with regards to sound. So changing the cat to change drone I suspect will have very very, very, very, very, very very minimal impact.