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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Yep, that looks very familiar from my Walbro 460. The frenchy setup is expensive AF. It sucks. Buy once, cry once. Mine took 5-10 years to actually melt... but I don't want to actually do that again. The stock connector took much less time to melt through with the stock plug. I had thought it was fixed for good, and it was.... until it wasn't
  2. I melted those EFI bulkhead connectors as well, best part I did it 1200km from home! I downgraded to a 340lph pump that draws much less amps and took advantage of being N/A and can use the stock connector. (https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0414/1681/8852/files/DW300_Tech_Sheet_e20dc539-c1b7-448e-9176-c0da069e1295.pdf?v=1702575698) In your case, it's time to get the frenchy or other billet setup if you don't want to change pumps. Unless you can downgrade your fuel pump requirements, this is what you must do to fully solve this issue.
  3. My Aeroflow stuff has held up just fine. Had to buy some stuff that wasn't in the Speedflow catalogue. Proflow on the other hand...
  4. Drive one. Rent one. Meet your hero, be disappointed. This is the easiest way. Everyone mods them for a reason, and that reason is they need the mods because OEM they are pretty bland. A 2015 Honda Accord will be a better drivers car.
  5. Sorry yeah, by 'VERY COMPLIANT' I could also be referring to 'too compliant'. I wonder if all the springs were similar rates. Surely that'd have something to do with how appropriately damped they truly are.
  6. It's not that it's stiff. If you think about it, the shocks with stiffer dampening will unsuprisingly.. be stiffer. The issue with the Maxspeedingrods in the video is that they were progressive. So under small bumps they would be VERY compliant, then the bigger the bump is the harder the 'wall' you would hit. The shocksworks and the other digressive brands have different characteristics going by the shape of their shock curve.
  7. Yes, it is designed to do that. The R34 (or any skyline) doesn't have a variable speed/always running compressor.
  8. This was super interesting! I wish it was a little 'better' a video as I spent a lot of time pausing to compare the dyno graphs with my own printouts which I previously had no reference to... Happy with my Bilsteins now very much and their handling characteristics which were previously a bit weird to me now make a lot more sense.
  9. I have the other problem, I have the exhaust closed, or open, and the sound changes like 5%. My issue is just how f***king loud the engine bay actually is. Anyone got a muffler for that?.
  10. Yep, I agree with the above. I was about to suggest BC's as they are absolutely the most tried and true budget option, but you already have....something, so unless that something fails, save up and follow the above advice when the time is right.
  11. Make sure you tune it. And by "Sure" I mean that if you haven't, you may only have milliseconds before your engine turns into many large, loud pieces, smashed all over the road. One does not just change boost from 8psi to 22psi without having tuning through all those load cells and that boost, unless of course the car was previously tuned at 22psi with the Haltech you have in there. If that has already happened, cool. If not, or IF YOU ARE UNSURE, then this is emergency, critical level vital.
  12. I hadn't got that far, my main worry was the connection to the actual calipers themselves. I'm just using new (ish) stock brake lines in the stock setup. I've just had a stud welded to the knuckle that is a little lower than the original stud (so my knuckles have two studs each side) to not have it be stretched so far in previous BBK setups, so the "block" (in the second picture) mounts a little lower for me and I hope I don't need to change anything. I may have even changed the connection to the calipers in the past and have since forgotten I did that. I may not have. Guess how I'm gonna find out. Source: hopium
  13. Oh I have mine all sitting in boxes ready to go, two sets of rotors, four sets of pads and caliper rebuild kits. They send a survey asking me if I had installed them months ago :p Grinder not necessary to fit the fronts, and not *really* for the rears. They have some good simple videos on how-to. I don't understand brake lines but from what I understand... somehow... OEM lines work, even though people say 350Z and 370Z use different banjo bolts, so it's possible 350'z had some different setup that Nissan changed to the 370Z/R33/R34 system? ....though are a little short, but past-me made a new bolt hole to bolt them to to reach my current fronts so I should be okay... maybe. In any case HFM don't sell any *different* line kits for R33/R34 front brakes than they do for the 370Z kits. So in my mind they must be compatible or they would have different products made to suit the different calipers. Please test and confirm for me kthx.
  14. I actually think the S15 is 80/20. I know I said 70/30 before but perhaps that is the GTT/GTST one. I wanna say it's the BM50 or BM44. I have one for sale if you want it GTSBoy, try your luck. For some reason the R34 GTT one is actually unlabelled, so it's a BM??????
  15. FYI the BM57's in GTR do split 60/40 and they knee over from 50/50 at a certain pressure. (I found this after extremely painful googling awhile back) The Z32 BM57 also splits 60/40, but the knee point where the 50/50 becomes 60/40 is at a higher pressure. The S15 BM50 is the one that splits 70/30 I think? They are also 17/16" size, and the plug fits, no downsides
  16. I did say "2x Magnaflows" then referred to a Varex. So to un-confuse that, my rear muffler is hot-swappable with a Varex. When I had a RB Turbo, I had the 2x Magnaflows, then went LS and though "Oh that's way too loud" and ordered a Varex. A mid muffler will definitely help a lot, even if straight through. SP Mufflers can make anything as big or as small as possible, which will help even more. Looking at my own exhaust I could make the muffler twice as long if I wanted to. Or you could go crazy and get 2x mufflers from SP and full every remaining space with muffling. In my experience closing the Varex makes the car run VERY rich (obviously). I'd say adding a muffler *will* affect things, on a technical, physics level, but I don't think you'd need a retune as the actual effect would be the car running a *tiny* bit richer due to more restriction, on a strictly physics level, but you kind of don't have any option if you want the car to make less sound.
  17. Go to SP mufflers and get the muffler of size you want and make a nice mid muffler. It's about that simple! I have 2x 3.5 Magnaflow straight through Mufflers and while it's pretty loud with the Varex open, it's quiet enough with the Varex closed. You can also buy off the shelf Magnaflow straight through mufflers as well. You also have a turbo to quiet the car down too. Don't overthink it. Buy my extra Magnaflow muffler sitting on a shelf doing nothing (buy it new, ignore this part)
  18. They're available from Nissan! I was able to buy a GTR (R33) one.. relatively* recently. Perhaps this stopped now but I bought mine ... relatively recently. I believe the 300ZX one has a different knee-point which is more rear biased, which I think the HFM one echos.
  19. Sorry I mean, from my limited understanding of this, a direct bolt on BM57 will do the exact same thing as a 370z BMC otherwise would. I.e it should be a perfect match for the 370z kit.
  20. Here's a wild concept, but why not a 370z BMC given you are using 370z brakes From a quick google, it is the same diameter as the BM57 which is a direct bolt on. You have an option here to not be silly :p
  21. That's the thing I don't get is the issue is not the shocks in the 34 GTT...... I assume the GTR geometry is different here. SQUARE PEG IN ROUND HOLE WHY WON'T YOU WORK!
  22. I was! The caliper difference wasn't that much, but I was going through brake pads at a rate of like 3:1 (and more in the rear). I know how rear brake/trailing is supposed to work, i.e steer the car with the pedals, but this was definitely extreme. Much better now, getting on the brakes and feeling the *fronts* lock up first. That said, I too am going to use a 370z setup (for this and other reasons). Update your BMC if you haven't already, Dose. If you already have and have this problem... then uh, welcome to weight transfer at the track, it is scary as f**k until you master the fear and become one with the dance of the machine. (I have not become one with the dance of the machine)
  23. One of my questions about this was how/if the R34 GTR strut is different to the R34 GTT (I mean it could easily be). In my car, the 18x9+30 feels like it is 0.0001mm from the strut with a 265 on it. Given a 10.5 +15 is closer to the strut than an 18x9+30, it would certainly foul... surely I am encouraged that a 19x11+25 would need a spacer to clear the R34 GTR suspension arms at least!
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