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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. They absolutely would know, you wouldn't even need to contact JJ as much as you could buy the direct part from their site. http://justjap.com/bc-racing-coilover-suspension-kit-nissan-skyline-er34-gt-and-gt-t-4ws-rear-fork-type.html
  2. How sure are you that you don't have a leak? What happens if you block off the hose going to the IACV? In the end I hollowed out my R34 IACV entirely, and just ran another IACV in the hose that runs to it. Only going to really work if you have an aftermarket ECU that is controlling said IACV though. Note: My 34 one failed and when it fails, it fails open. As above, no leaks, throttle stop bolt entirely out, idle of 2000RPM. Why not just change TPS voltage when closed back to 0.2? I noticed in my car (again not completely the same) that voltage when car on but not running may have been 0.2, but I would find that 0% throttle with car running the voltage was different, perhaps 0.5 actually.
  3. I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.
  4. Completely eyeballing it only, I am saying they are probably +20. I have 9.5 +27, and yours look to be sitting out about 7mm more than mine :p, and I wouldn't say they are +12's because they don't look 15mm further out than mine. Surely the wheel says though on the back of it?
  5. The R34 also has a manual throttle stop bolt, I always found that adjusting that was easier than the screw in the side of the AAC itself which appears to be made out of something with the strength of warm butter. I had many R34 AAC's fail in general to the point where I bypassed it with a BMW unit lol
  6. Jordy's info is right. I wouldn't buy from that site, especially if they list the R34 as a "GTS" Grab a set from Justjap and get them shipped to the States, it all has to be shipped to the USA one way or another as it's all coming from Taiwan. That way you will absolutely get the correct part.
  7. I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw. Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.
  8. I agree, it is similar to a GTX3076R with a larger turbine side, i.e 3576. (wheel is actually a little larger than a 35r wheel) The question really is how much power does @ActionDan intend to track his car with. 350 all day? 7670 with room to spare. 7163 if 300 is fine for you. Still would consider external gating it due to what @MaximuSmurf mentioned earlier. Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.
  9. The 7670 is the turbo I used to have, Up to 450kw, maybe even 465kw. It's a big turbo. It's not as big a turbo if you're realistically considering using it as a track car, i.e always up in that rev range. You'd have to define "sexy head" as this is a turbo you'd be need to be living at 5-8k at constantly. It is GTX3576 sized.
  10. So what you are saying is ultimately with having 2 subframes, I can create my own for joy and happiness and success. That is what I was looking for. Does anyone do a "Hamburger with the lot" bushing kit? I do plan to provide the subframe + said bushes to a workshop with a press to do this. I noticed awhile back I didn't actually need more alignment settings than what Whiteline (etc) adjustable bushes actually offer. So new bushes, enough alignment and better NVH and friendly with the legalities, kind of win win for me.
  11. Hello. I have a R34 GTT and because reasons, I need to maintain stock geometry. However, I can change the geometry. I have a few questions. 1) Can I get a non HICAS subframe and bolt everything from the GTT subframe into said subframe? 2) What parts of said subframe determine whether the rear shocks can be fork or eyelet type? I do not want to change from current fork type because I would like to keep my coilovers. My ultimate goal is to convert my current car into having stock rear toe arms I can set with an adjustable whiteline bush for configurable toe. Answers to inevitable questions: I have a HICAS eliminator kit already. I can not use this. The diff has to come out because reasons anyway. The tailshaft is removed for reasons anyway as is the exhaust. There's not much in the way of removing the subframe. I would also like to put every bush known to man into whatever subframe (i.e the R34 non HICAS one) goes back into the car. Is there a kit for this? I don't know the names of every bush that is on every site and this is quite confusing to me. I do have *some* bushes already. Can I re-use these? I have pineapples, and rear camber adjustment for the current uprights in the GTT. How much of this can be re-used? OPTION 2: Buy HICAS parts and put into GTT subframe. Surely no one wants option 2. I searched, oh god I searched but I'd like confirmation before I buy a subframe I can't use, or one that requires me to replace my diff, or axles, or coilovers or buy whiteline bushes I already own. I would much rather put HICAS back in than do that.
  12. Thanks Duncan - I have a R34 GTT, with 9.5 +27 rims atm (which I hate cleaning). I assumed the R34 GTR rims would fit, but you never know with spokes. I had the LMGT2's with 18x9 +32 not fit, so I would feel mighty stupid if I bought a set from interstate to find they didn't clear.
  13. Hello. I am in Melbourne and would love a set of R34 GTR rims depending on condition. Also depending on whether they fit my 356MM kit, which is the Attakd brand from Justjap. Similar if not identical to the D2/Ksport calipers. If you have any information re: rims or even if they fit on that kind of setup I'd love to know!
  14. Eh it works as well as any 3 port mac valve. I used it on my setup when an official MAC product decided to rattle the center piston loose entirely. Can't say it was good or bad or any different really, but it exists and its something people are gonna need for boost control anyway. Mounting a boost solenoid somewhere is always a headache of mild proportions, being able to bolt it directly to the compressor housing is nice enough. Makes for one hell of a short hose to the solenoid too, which is supplied. One less thing to worry about really
  15. The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too. IWG can be hit or miss with the EFR's. If in doubt, go external which has been proven to work great 100% of the time. An 8374 will beat a GTX3582. Especially a GT3582. Consider a 7670, because that can and will do 370kw. (it has done up to 465 on E85 on some 2.5's)
  16. Lol birds. They are totally different games, which reward different skills. However it's like asking what is the better fighting sport, MMA, or Table tennis? What's the better FPS game, Quake, or League of Legends? It's not a shooter anymore. It is chalk and cheese and they can't be honestly comparable. One of them is raw gameplay ability and one is memorizing where to camp. Cmon. The things you listed I would flat out dismiss as not skills. They are bullshit cheese mechanics to get around the skillcap of a game. It takes elements away from it. Deagle one taps? Every gun should be deagle one taps. Managing spray? How about just hitting the target. The game IS dumbed down. Skill (or more appropriately, strategy) appeared in other areas to make up for it, because you had to. I was playing when CS 1.0 appeared and I saw it happen. Kids these days literally cannot understand ? The oldschoolers left and got old, and CS/COD/Overwatch/TF is all that is left.
  17. Close thread - All items are now sold.
  18. I agree that its its own skill There's still a lower ceiling for the CS crowd, which is inclusive for new players. In top tournaments, you need top teamplay *as well*. High Ceiling + Top teamplay = good Low Ceiling + Top teamplay = less good Everyone pushed out of enjoying the game due to skill differences = fatal to community, which is what happened. The games existed before matchmaking and being stomped stopped becoming fun for most. I recall playing DM and being happy to finish 5th out of 10 and slowly rank up. This doesn't seem to happen now. Noone is going to stick around for 200 games when they finish 9th or 10th out of 10 every time like they used to. It was no secret that CS players got mauled playing Quake/UT back in the day, and while Quake/UT players did jump into CS they may not have absolutely dominated, but they did *far* better than the CS players did playing Quake. CS isn't transferable. The skills you pick up rocket jumping off a wall, changing weapons midair at 200mph and hitting someone across of the side of the map are not available to you in CS. Being better at it in UT/Quake means literally nothing if you cannot use any of the extra skills you happen to have. Having a knack for timing different powerups on a map and area control of a map over an opponent which is vital in an arena game, entirely removed from any equation in CS (for example). Truthfully it's not the worst thign in the world, there's plenty of Heros in overwatch that cater to that, and they are plenty viable for those with 'less' mechanical shooter skill than others, and this is arguably a good thing in an effort to build a community. It has been too long though for people to actually have memories of what used to be the status quo, so they erronously believe what is 'in' now is as good as could possibly ever have been. Arena Shooters are like Group B rally ?
  19. Quake/UT are miles ahead. UT I always put above quake because the weaponry was not "tiered" (i.e all weapons are closely balanced and the difference is playstyle and situational) and movement was far more complicated/complex. Team based FPS games only exist because the skill ceiling is low. The only way you can do well is through better teamplay. This is how CS got its start. IF everyone's skill is massively hindered, you have to work together better to win to overcome a crap game limitation. That said I understand thats also why they are popular, unfortunately UT and Quake never had proper matchmaking in place which is ultimately what keeps CS and Overwatch going. Noone would get into overwatch if you were placed with 4000SR full teams. You don't get that Luxury in Quake or UT, you would get a first timer basketball player in the same match as prime Michael Jordan. This is why things are now where they are.
  20. The above is why CS ruined all shooters. Lowered the skill ceiling fatally for FPS games. Everything else just feels like watered down garbage and it infuriates me for years that people consider CS or any derivative of CS to be an actual shooting game. Like karts vs F1. Bad news about Broadford, turn 1 is an absolute doozy, luckily there is a fair amount of runoff and it's uphill, glad people walked away in the end.
  21. Except there's also that dude that made 466kw at the wheels on a 2.5 with one..
  22. The turbo is the most/only important part. It is the part that defines if a car is decent or not. The best turbo really right now is not T3. You buy a manifold to fit the turbo you want, not the other way around. Can buy plenty of OK choices for the T3, but if you are going to the considerable expense of a full build, its better to start with the turbo first, then get all the pieces to support that.
  23. The ECU won't be the problem here. The only problem would be whether the AFM's run out of flow. Given I've literally never read a scenario where someone running -9's has a problem with AFM's running out of flow you will be entirely fine. The Nistune can do full flex now, as well as run E85 so don't let that one get in the way either if you want to head down that path.
  24. Anti lag in bin. Just not worth doing. You can fit any T3 turbo, because you're going to need a lot of fabrication anyway, and anything T3 both can and must be made to work. Get a EFR 7670 in the T3 format. If you can return the manifold get it in T4 TS. This is the best option as it comes with a bov and boost solenoid too. If you can return the manifold, I'd just say go buy my kit which comes with literally everything. Failing that, GTX3071 0.82 rear. But if you are buying new, the EFR is a better unit, and well, WELL worth the small price increase which is probably absorbed by not needing to buy a BOV which you would for the Garrett.
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