Kinkstaah

Everything is now sold except the EFR Turbo Kit.

Yep, does seem like a strange acquisition due to the above. Though both ECU's did sort of do "more" than most people ever utilized. Would be nice to have a "basic" option for a more cut price new offering for ECU's.

It turns out every car I drove after mine felt like an absolute dog. The EFR smashes the GTX3071 in every aspect. I have unrealistic expectations for response it would appear relative to 100% of RB's ever built. I would assume that a 2.5 with a 7670 would be laggy, or at least laggier than mine. Still going to be better than anything else bolted to a 2.5. The result does backup my thinking on the matter, that the 7670 is actually a pretty big turbo and is more a 450kw turbo than a 350kw turbo that people seem to consider it to be. Would be curious to see if there is speed sensor data as 466rwkw is really up there.

something something i told you something something tyres

Gearbox and Clutch sold! 140 Amp alternator EFR Turbo Kit Injectors + Rail + FPR Still available!

Hello - Yes long gone. Import monster has a set of 18x9 +32's that I have been eyeing for ages but didn't clear my brakes, if you are still hunting.

I can confirm the 7670 is great on a 2.8, so it'll be OK on a 2.6 and most likely pretty bad on a 2.0. 7163 is best for the 2L, but some SR20 people don't believe life exists until 5k and sideways in which case the 7670 will be ideal. There are actually a few reports on the 7670 on the 2L, I want to say a few were tuned by JEM up on their facebook page over the last year or so. It is similar in size to a GTX3576, which is most would consider to be a pretty big ask for a 2L with a 7k rev limit and RWD.

People like mudflaps the same reason they like flared guards, the same reason they like vortex generators, the same reason people like wangs and motorsport-looking fitment, Function IS form. Whether people need it or use it is another story

Would be curious to see what this is like on another combination, i.e whatever twins are similar to say an 8374. My 7670 and 2.8 had a similar spool up time, with what 'felt' like 1.5s on a closed throttle to WOT coming out of a corner, and as mentioned here, it did kind of get on my nerves when driving around very tight, twisty roads, its still better than anything else I had tried, but getting that 1.5s down to less than 1.5s would have been the thing I was targetting next. It just adds up when you come out of a corner (1.5) shift (1.5) then brake, turn, repeat every few seconds. The transient throttle (i.e 40% to 100% throttle) was near instant, and this is what the EFR was awesome at, but I certainly noticed a different life from CLOSED to open throttle which was one of the reasons my EFR is now for sale (I am going n/a ?)

From my for sale thread: I had the default spring in the 50mm gate, but mine was a progate as opposed to a progate lite, so it was holding about ~9-10psi on gate pressure with a 14psi spring in the thing, on a 2.8L Neo at the time. I was going to one day up the spring pressure to compensate but 18psi was 400kw at the time so I honestly never really needed to go more, but control at over 18psi was starting to get really wonky with a 9-10psi base spring pressure. I wasn't really happy with the angle either. Its a T4 TS manifold with an undivided gate. The previous 45mm gate was on the turbine housing done by Scotty here. I was able to run as little as 4psi through that (and up to 25psi with a 4 port). Coming from that, the 6boost felt terrible, but honestly functioned really quite fine in the real world.

Coilpacks and Loom now sold!

I have had a 6boost and 45mm and 50mm gate in the past, with a 3076, 7670 etc. Never had creep, so not entirely sure what is going on there, but that setup should be able to hold a nice low boost if you want it to, it is certainly not 'normal'

Do it, film the results if you survive.

fuark. Thanks admins for merging all my intended to be seperate threads. Whether I forgot to put prices on them I am unsure as they were all copied and pasted from Gumtree. Prices: Injectors + Fuel Rail + Apexi FPR + Injector loom/plugs = 600 Coilpacks + Coilpack loom = $450 EFR Kit = $4999 Gearbox and Clutch = $3000

Good Ramen and Pho are awesome. Ichiran ramen in Tokyo is one of the best meals I've ever had, my god it was amazing. However bad ramen and pho are..... not so good, and its not like you can tell before you go into a new place unless someone trusted (like VWL) has recommended it ?

Splitfire Coilpacks for RB25DET Neo.Part (DIS-008)Comes with near-new coilpack loom purchased a recently.Coilpacks themselves are ~3 months old. Selling because sold the motor that they were in. Work perfectly, still have the box in good condition too if you're interested in that kind of thing.Located in Glen Waverley, Melbourne

So you want a high mount turbo and 400KW. Stop looking at turbos and buy this. You're going to need all of it to get going anyway. You're going to need to get shit fabricated. Buy this instead. Save your time and money.Kit includes:1x Borg Warner EFR 7670 1.05 T4 Twinscroll Turbo1x 6boost T4 Twinscroll manifold, ceramic coated black1x 50mm Genuine Turbosmart External wastegate1x Set of Braided lines from the boost solenoid (built in!) to the external gate. Already plumbed up correctly so you don't have to get confused.1x Dump pipe, front pipe, and Cat, with provisions for a Wideband O2 Sensor in a sensible location so it doesn't fkin die in 3 months.1x Screamer pipe, running well under the car. You could join these to plumb them back easily. I did.1x Set of Speedflow lines and fittings. Don't buy a cheap kit. Don't buy a cheap kit. Don't buy a cheap kit. DON'T BUY A CHEAP LINES KIT. I almost melted my car to the ground with a cheap lines kit. I then got this kit, which is all solidly mounted, away from things that melt or crack or will move under load. Don't buy a cheap lines kit.1x Pod filter, and metal intake.1x Pre-Loved Blitz SE Intercooler which requires no cutting and uses stock holes in the chassis for piping.1x Turbine outlet pipe to intercooler, and charge pipe to throttle with provisions for Air temp, stock power steering nippleComes with all the joiners and hose clamps and fkin bolts and random bits of crap you would otherwise be running to Autobarn for and trying to make fit.Remove OEM turbo side. Bolt everything here onto your RB25. Enjoy the best turbo money can buy. Just add fuel and ECU Smarts.Yes it all does work, no, the piping doesn't cause lag, no the intercooler flows this more than fine. No you don't need more power, you'll blow up your motor, or have too much lag, or have no grip.Do the math, then buy this and be happy with your life choices! No more thinking about how you'll make it work. This works. ps, yes the flex joint is beat up a bit. No, it doesn't leak, seriously ?

Set of 6 Delphi/Xspurt Ethanol injectors for a RB25DET Neo (originally purchased new from Scotty)Comes with Fuel rail!Comes with injector loom and plugs, pre-plugged and ready to go!Comes with Apexi adjustable fuel pressure regulator!Never had any issues, injectors are MADE for E85 as opposed to being "E85 Compatible". Injectors will still happily run 98 as well, and were doing so most recently.Located Glen Waverley, Melbourne.

R33 GTST Gearbox and Nismo Super Coppermix Twinplate clutch kit R33 GTST / RB25DET Gearbox from Nissan Skyline. Had in car ~6 months, had no issues whatsoever shifting, grinding, popping out of gear, exploding, etc etc etc but did only have few months. Removed as engine also removed from car.Drives and sounds like any R33 GTST gearbox that I have personally ever seen.Has new (nismo lol) pivot ball. New OEM slave cylinder too, and a non 18 year old dust boot and crossmember, and new gearbox mount.Nismo Twin plate super coppermix clutch kit with lightened flywheel. Also near new, driven about 10,000kms. These things last many many years of abuse, never received really any abuse as engine/gearbox now out of car. Will hold 450 rwkw, and drive like a clutch that won't make you hate life and can drive daily EASILY$3000 for both, will be $3200 if you make me seperate them. Located Glen Waverley, Melbourne.

You could do something like an EFR7163, but you'd be limited to running such low boost to stop it murdering itself up top that it'd really be hard to argue that it's a good idea..... Alternatively, buy my turbo setup! Note: nothing short of stupid is going to move it 1000rpm earlier though.

Both donuts are pretty Shitful, especially Daniels. Like for real, its the same Donut with slightly different toppings. Also unfortunately contract cancer every time I go near there due to the complete abominations in the parking lot, and their equally cancer-causing owners. f***

The GTR gives you an advantage for the first 4 seconds. For the rest of the lap or twisty mountain road then it's a heavy traction control system that may or may not be in use. And it costs you $50K extra. (in this specific example I tested) Yes if you are especially enjoying 1st gear then the GTR will be better. I find that this is approximately 0.00001% of my enthusiast driving in the real world or on the track though.

You don't need the GTR. A setup GTT/GTST will do what you want before lag becomes too big of an obstacle. GTR is only worth having if you have 600kw and that's entirely different animal when it comes to keeping it running and paying for it to get going to begin with. IMO. Source: Drove a Racepace 2.8 R33 gtr with 400kw, Legitimately preferred mine. You do notice the difference back to back, not to mention the likely 100K cost of this particular car. The only thing you can't really do is 8k launches. Birds is known to do this to beat Merc A45's so his mileage may vary.

Would you consider selling 2? I need 2. How about shipping?

Has this ever been done as an example as to when to turn it on? I had always heard it comes "on" at loads just above idle, i.e ~1200rpm with 'some' load. But above posts insinuate it actually can/should come on at about 3000rpm and off at 5400rpm? Anyone done a dyno with it on/off between 1000rpm and 3000rpm?