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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    The difference in my case (i.e I'm the only one who went smaller and has no desire to go bigger) 1) Need to go from a 1 pump fuel system to a 2 pump system at 450kw+ 2) Blowing up gearboxes is a risk 3) Blowing up motors is a risk "Safe 350kw' is a long way from 'Safe 500kw' 4) Grip (RWD) 5) Lag (RWD) 6) Daily driven Clutches start becoming painful 7) Don't have 1000 more RPM to play with like a 26. Maybe I do because solid head, but I'll stay close to factory rev limit which is still 1000rpm lower. The most effiecient max power on BW Matchbot is a 9174 or 9180 to run 30psi through a motor like yours or mine. These according to BW, make in the region of 850hp. Do you want to make 630kw once, or do you want to make 630kw through 150 hot laps every other weekend? IMO that is the decision process regarding selecting any turbo really.
  2. Kinkstaah
    For your setup I would recommend the 8374. Mine is a RB25 based RB28 from the neo. I still have a redline of 7000RPM and RWD. I have the 1.05 twin scroll rear. You have a RB26 based motor, which I would assume you plan on revving to 8000rpm. Most RB26 people don't have VCT so the 8374 is great. They and you also have AWD. I don't personally think there's a huge difference in spool (or power) between them. That said, mine may be getting close to the limit on the upper end of 430kw. I don't have a speed sensor to test, but absolutely would if I was going to spin it that far. I run about 18psi and make 395rwkw, 12psi will get me 329kw, but that info is in the dyno sheet. The BW Matchbot shows me very bad things if I put 25psi into it, hence not going to push my luck without a speed sensor. Is the 7670 and a 2.8 and VCT a transient response monster? I'm happy enough with it that I want to pull the motor and turbo out and put something else in there. Still feels like a full second between WOT and boost coming back in a scenario where you'd otherwise be off throttle. I'd be keen to see those numbers side by side running that test actually. It is however pretty nice from part throttle. But on a 26 in a GTR, make use of the AWD and the 8000rpm redline. The 7670 will nose over anyway if you plan to push it, which everyone does. Obviously it won't if you run 10psi and aim at 300kw with it, but I doubt that is the plan.
  3. Kinkstaah
    All of that will have tiny, marginal gains. Want response? Change the turbo or change displacement. (i.e 3L but availability could be hard there!) They are by far the best, easiest ways of getting response and in the real world also the most cost effective.
  4. Kinkstaah
    See above. I don't personally give it any more than 25% throttle until oil temp is 70C and Water temp is at thermostat temp, which in my car is 78-80C. On the track I've not had oil temp go much over 100-103 after/during a full session with 400kw, but this is with a 25row oil cooler. I would back off at 130C prior to getting an oil cooler, and obviously decided to get an oil cooler. At the same track, Water temp will get up to/around 95 or so. I now start getting nervous if any temperature gauge has a number in three figures. I have warnings/cutoffs/engine protection set at a) Any AFR above 12.5 with boost above 3psi for more than 100ms. b) Oil or Water temp over 120C. That is a (very rough) set of examples for you.
  5. Kinkstaah
    If that is a full WOT pull, from the entirety of the video (i.e not backing off) and boost is dropping into massive vaccum like that, I'd be putting my money on that stock silicon hose sucking shut. Especially given you said it runs fine on stock boost...
  6. Kinkstaah
    Unfortunately not really as I would certainly die attempting to use such a bike, and as I know zero about bikes I'd have to sell it like a complete n00b in any case.
  7. Kinkstaah
    Looking for 10K in current state. As always, tests welcome!
  8. Kinkstaah
    How exactly are you trying to tune it out? By "tune it out" do you mean you have a fully adjustable ECU that you are tuning with, or is this car running stock engine management?
  9. Kinkstaah
    ^---- this was my experience at my first Driver Dynamics day at Sandown. The instructors attempted to drive my car and went 45 degree sideways on 3 different corners, got out and said "Good luck" yep
  10. Kinkstaah
    This engine is still running strong for 25,000kms since I posted this. Do you want a reliable forged motor for less than half of what it would cost you, about fifteen times faster than doing it yourself? How much assurance do you reckon you will get from old mate building your motor over the course of two years, for 20K? Buy this instead. It works.
  11. Kinkstaah
    I both appreciate and hate that the entries fill so close to the event date. I wouldn't book a track day any earlier than maybe 3-4 days in advance purely due to weather concerns (and never knowing if car is actually not going to imminently explode) Looks to be a good day though!
  12. Kinkstaah
    I was in Dingley and unfortunately my 34 was not stolen Get insurance people, but breaking into a house to steal shit is another level of nightmare. Cars are cars, but people who break into other people's houses absolutely should get shafted hard by the law.
  13. Kinkstaah
    History: 3076 auto result GTX3582 Auto result: BW EFR7670 Manual Result Manual now, and manual is way laggier than the auto ever was (and it shows in the dyno) 12psi and 18psi runs both on E85. 98 is only about ~10kw behind as the timing is pretty conservative on both runs and it's not knock limited on 98. Why so low boost? Misfire central at anything above 18, and the boost control isn't exactly steady as I have a 9psi spring in the gate. If I could spare about $2k it would get R35 GTR coils and 7psi more spring to see what it could do, but in all honesty being RWD on street tyres it is lively enough as it is, and best to show some mercy to the gearbox. Now someone just needs to buy it
  14. Kinkstaah
    Well, after checking about seventy million things this was actually a badly warped 6boost manifold. It was 0.5mm out at the front, and 1mm out at the back, and quite twisted. I also had 3 broken studs, but as everything was tight I checked everything else under the sun first. No more ticky ticky now, and my wallet is much lighter given this also resulted in all the turbo lines being re-engineered as well as a lot of melted wiring from offensively hot exhaust gas going where it wasn't supposed to be. I only really twigged when I put 98 in the car instead of E85 and could immediately smell the fumes. Start at the simple stuff, future googlers!
  15. Kinkstaah
    The building only truly begins once the "build" is completed.
  16. Kinkstaah
    People forget that buying a finished project car isn't missing out of the fun of a project car. The "fun" of a project car is keeping it running and trying to use it. There's more work in keeping it running than there EVER is in building it. Buy Jussi's car and be happy /Thread
  17. Kinkstaah
    Offset? How big brakes are we talking here? 356mm brakes?
  18. Kinkstaah
    They look fine. Maybe the red line (high boost) could stand to be a little leaner Maybe the black line (low boost) could stand to be a little richer But in the real world, these are fine and go enjoy the car
  19. Kinkstaah
    I personally would prefer wider rears over the wider front, start on that side of the car makes for a better looking car
  20. Kinkstaah
    Just check it's flat before you put it on (i.e, machine it). I had "fun" with mine not being flat, and I had to drill out the holes for the manifold studs to get it to sit on. A few months later I had to replace three broken studs, the whole thing was twisted, and warped 0.5mm at the front and 1mm at the rear. Mine was a T4 TS variant. Check it or get it checked before you put it on (should check any manifold before putting it on really!)
  21. Kinkstaah
    Yeah you'll only save in time. Ultimately unless you are DIY'ing yourself you have to trust someone external to you anyway. Whether thats the seller (who is usually another customer) you're still trusting *a* machine shopt or *a* builder whether you deal with them directly or indirectly. I'd personally prefer a motor that's done ~25,000kms and a few track days/many dyno runs and is still holding together just fine like mineeee... over one freshly built anyway. Reputation tends to matter a lot with these things. In 2018 it's really hard not to argue just ordering a RIPS RB30 bottom end as soon as you buy any R chassis and have it ready to go and it'll be all you need.
  22. Kinkstaah
    lol I'll sell you my 2.8 with VCT for far far far far less than that one on FB. RB26 tax is absurd.
  23. Kinkstaah
    Without changing turbo or intercooler? There is no way.
  24. Kinkstaah
    Well there we go. This is what a 9.5 +27 looks at the front of a 34 with a pulled guard. This is wih a 265 tyre and is about 0.1mm from rubbing on everything on lock. I've lowered it a touch since then, but it's pretty easy to see that there's no way +15mm is going to fit in that guard. I always flirt with re-shelling the car (as opposed to painting). Looks like the R33 GTST got a few more points in that regard Sorry to hijack thread - There's a lot of info on SAU that suggest fitment for R33 GTST and R34 GTT is so identical it's almost "the same", clearly it isn't!
  25. Kinkstaah
    Still doesn't really seem possible, I had a full roll, and pull, and semi-flare to get 18x9.5 +27 at the front. Those wheels are a full 15mm further out than what I have up the front of a 34. And mine sits like this: Guess I'm off to get a R33 then, the geometry isn't as close as people tend to say it is here!
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