Kinkstaah

They also seem to be pretty crazy numbers, cause if real then it's time to re-shell into a R33 GTST instead of a R34, especially the front.

Cheers, helps contextualize the times. My eyebrows were raised looking at the times if a AD08R was considered 'semi slick' which sometimes it does get categorized as!

Change your diff settings. Most of the cars have default diff settings of full lock on decel, and partial lock on acceleration. This completely changes how the cars actually drive around, or put on the viscous diff option. The Skylines then drive like Skylines, though I can understand why you'd want locking on decel to overcome understeer on a race car on a road chassis if you're a skilled actual racing driver, I clearly am not

What is considered a "Street Tyre" and "Semi Slick" for the classes there?

+1 for SL Customs. I actually went out there to ask questions about front bumpers and honestly his pricing was pretty damn reasonable for the competency he was showing. Definitely worth a call/chat if you can book in advance.

Obviously this is where actually driven cars crash the party, and security gets involved.

The ARD ones are available and work perfectly, I have the 150A one and my electrical system is much happier now https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-low-resistance-high-output-alternator-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html https://www.rhdjapan.com/ard-high-output-alternator-110a-z31-r31-r32-r33-r34-c34-c35-wc34.html

Birds, buy a R34 sedan, noone will ever attempt to look at it, let alone steal it. I get wistful happy thoughts every time I park in a carpark somewhere, but alas, no bites.

Strange, I would have thought that plumbing one line directly to the bottom of the gate should be the most spike resistant/basic way to set up the gate especially if looking for low boost, like how most IWG's run. It still makes no sense to me how this can happen by adding the solenoid in the middle of the vacuum hoses, when connecting the hose directly does not have this spike, with the solenoid unplugged, doing literally nothing. Is it an example of the Dunning Kruger effect when you: 1) Try something, then get stuck 2) Ask for help 3) Take that help on board, get the problem sorted 4) Post up results so other people can find it?

Update: Plumbing the lines like this fixed it. Seems that it really didn't like being in the simplest possible method. Bit of playing with PID and start duty afterwards, now right as rain.

Making her budge is easier, and it is BY FAR making it the easiest way make it not a complete slug. Or if you must absolutely have an auto and your partner is literally missing a leg, buy another car. Now that that's safely ignored, you need an ECU to provide proper fuelling for the turbo motor as opposed to the N/A one. 5psi is signifigant difference. You need to control differences in airflow and injectors will behave differently, and you need an ECU to be able to tell the motor what to do, it's not just about preventing detting. I don't know enough about R33 ECU's to know if you can just get a stock turbo auto ECU and plug the fkin thing in, or even better, buying a turbo auto car. Any steps down this path will, 100%, always, unavoidably cost considerably more than what you paid for the current car, OR flat out just buying a turbo auto R33.

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You will have to piggyback something (as above haltech ecu will work) or put in a custom auto transmission ECU (they do exist!). Putting in a manual is better in every aspect though, including labor and yes, teaching someone to drive manual is easier than doing this conversion and a lot less hassle.

Yep, this is running a (genuine) 50mm external gate. I can get the thing to hold boost fine for 20psi, similar to KiwiRS4T posted just above, the problem is I may not want to run 20psi, I may want to run 15psi or 12psi in the fashion that was posted above, or 17 psi etc. Or say pull 5psi boost per gear in 1st, none of which really has much effect if I'm spiking to 20psi semi-controllably. I just found it astounding that the spike happens when the device is plumbed in, even with the solenoid is unplugged. The logic that air has to do a 90deg vs not is the only real difference here but I just can't see that causing this oddity!

Here is a (blurry) picture of it plumbed in. The electrical connector was disconnected further up the chain. When I join the two hoses I've labelled together with a straight barbed connector, I get no more spikes. The BW provided hose to the compressor looked a little kinked, so I replaced it with exactly zero effect.... on either configuration (plumbed into solenoid or past it straight into the gate).

1000000000000000000000000000000000000% It's pretty easy to see, blow air in one side, see where it comes out. Attach hoses inline with that flow, considering it's unplugged and all... did check to see if its leaking using the same scientific test and doesn't appear to be.

Too much power. Stock cars may run it but Skylines sure don't like living that long up there. 12psi is more than enough, 10 is okay but I'd love a little more than that, but really what I want is electronic control to actually hold the line flat instead of it falling off which is what you'd expect from a MBC or just a line to the gate directly. (12psi is 330rwkw) Can't see how removing the plumb back would affect this? The plumb back is a 2inch piece of exhaust that is well over a meter long before it joins with the exhaust again, which would be unused when the gate is shut, I can't see how adding a solenoid in the line would affect it.

Hi Folks Has anyone ever seen anything like this before with boost spiking? Below is 4 small traces from 4 pulls. Run 1 was done with a vacuum line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate. Run 2, 3, and 4 were done running the line through the (Borg Warner) 3 port boost solenoid with it ENTIRELY UNPLUGGED ELECTRICALLY. I can only surmise that the boost solenoid itself acts as a restriction. In run 4 I stayed on the gas longer and you can see it does drop to wastegate pressure. Note: I've had issues similar to this with: a) 4 port boost solenoid (MAC, very old, replaced) b) 3 port boost solenoid (MAC, literally fell apart and returned) c) Borg Warner EFR boost solenoid If something else can cause this, what could it be? The gate was/is a 50MM Progate single. I am assuming the wastegate is fine, as a hose directly from pressure source to wastegate works as expected. I have had (briefly) a MBC which also works as expected sitting in the line in the past. I have replaced all hoses and shortened them to no effect. Is there anything else to check? I'd love to run between 10 and 20psi, but it really looks that if I hook up any boost solenoid I'm going to be dealing with at least a 20psi spike before settling down to whatever boost I specify (that part does in fact work).

Heasmans in Syd (Bilstein Australia) are the only people I could find who would rebuild and revalve shocks. Great to deal with, even to the point where I sent photos over the course of a few weeks to find out if they were leaking, for them to say yep, don't worry - save your money when they could have easily have done the job.

Nope. Noone has been able to identify this sound whatsoever. It got *quieter* after an exhaust stud was tightened up. However, the sound is there, so it's entirely possible it was just more audible due to a slight exhaust leak. It does not appear to be VCT, which is now actually (blissfully) finally wired in and working.

MCA's are the bees knees. Bilsteins can get reconditioned (I asked about mine recently) for something around ~500 for all 4. So still considerably cheaper than buying a set of $2500 coilovers from MCA.

Another vote for GTX3071 here. OP mentioned he was thinking about injectors and AFM etc, so this is a turbo that will make the most out of that. GTX3071 may be not THE_BEST_EVER for outright performance on stock RB25, but it is by far the simplest way to get 99% of the performance anyone is going to ever need given what you've said just now.

Drive one. Magical diff, pft I said. Then I drove it and I was like oh. Renault newish stuff is criminally underpriced and is as reliable as any other hot hatch. Drove it for 2 weeks, no regrets. Down to 12k but would gladly take one for a drive over an Evo X.

Above in the orange is one of my aborted run at ~22psi on the 7670. Splitfires called it quits and the Dyno got mostly reconfigured as it was dummied up in the past as a 4.36 ratio because of the slip of the auto converter. It's now 4.1 (my rear diff is 4.083 but it's 0.5% difference). VCT is now actually working and wired in. The car made 330kw at 12psi, and the best run before we gave up was 433kw at 5700rpm before spark breakdown (again at 23psi). (Not pictured in graph above) No, I didn't get printouts because spent more time actually tuning the car through various boost levels between 12 and 20psi as that whole section before VCT switched off (i.e 1100 to 5500rpm) was REALLY LEAN as VCT hadn't been running..... for years... In any case, big turbo is big. I still maintain this thing is a lot closer to the 8374 than most realise. It was still picking up more than 10kw per PSI on my motor going from 330 @ 12 to what would have been over 433kw at 22-23psi.