Kinkstaah

The "everything" is way more than you'd think, because its not just a case of replacing a few things. The kits from JSAI Aero are infinitely easier. You would be looking for Fibreglass front guards, front bumper, splitter, and bonnet (as well as all the nissan GTR hinges/latches for the bonnet mechanism). It all bolts onto the R34 GTT chassis, but none of it bolts to any of the GTT panels.

Megane Megane Megane Megane Megane Megane

It's actually fairly tricky to find. I had to change the sensor and the auto loom has two things labelled as "Speed sensor" The one you want ISNT the one that is grey and shielded. Checking the loom is the way to go. If you still have the gearbox I actually looked at the plugs on the auto to figure it out and then joined the R33 speed sensor into those. I want to say they were black and brown but man I wouldn't bet on this particular response.

Update (kind of) Changed oil, no diff there other than better oil pressure. (10-60 instead of 5-40) Nothing bearingish in the oil, so I mean that's good. Same amount came out that went in, also good. Took cam cover off and engine builder had a look, was able to rotate the cam, and have the VCT gear *not* rotate. Then if rotated the engine enough, it'd get to the end of it's 'play' then lock up and all rotate as one. After this, it was actually locked up again, moving the cam would move the gear. Until you gave a the cam a little more forceful tug and the cam/vct gear would unlock. Unsure if this is 'normal' or not. There's also oil (again lol) in the Solenoid plug. Strange. Had one in the past have an oil leak there, and it was able to be moved by hand, the one currently in the car was locked in place (when outside of the car) leading us to surmise the original one was fked as it was unlocked out of the car while the other wasn't. Changed both the solenoid AND the gear that day. Maybe issue has re-occurred? Engine builder friend is going to try with people who also own these cars to perform the same test to see if the gear performs the same way.

Possibly, because the stock IACV is broken as it died on the track and gave me 2500RPM idle. I got around this by actually installing a second IACV which actually controls air flow to the now permanently full open Nissan IACV. The part that broke, was the part that otherwise moves on heat (i.e the wax pellet). So I can see how heat would no longer affect the operation of that, but I also can't see how it'd change, given it is currently absolutely not functional at all and there's no wiring to the motor right now.

Hi Folks. Wondering if anyone has heard anything like this before. Head is a RB25DETNeo and this tapping happens just for a minute or two after starting Hot OR Cold. There are no unusual sounds otherwise. It sounds to me that it's similar to a SR20DET VCT rattle, however while this sounds like it is in the same area, it happens if the VCT solenoid is unplugged. I don't know if this will actually affect things, if the issue is internally mechanical and not solenoid. There's not a lot of info on VCT rattle on RB25DET's. I have blocked off one oil feed to the head to combat blowby in the past. Note: This happens at about ~1500-2000 rpm. It will rattle once, or twice, and the car can rev past it fine. I.e, if you revved to 4k you may hear 1-2 taps while it revs through, but it always appears at that range. Note: If you rev the car slowly through the rev range after starting, this does not happen. You don't need a ton of throttle, but if you stab it or stand on it it'll happen, it will not happen if you say hold throttle at 10% and slowly rev through the range. The sound appears to be coming from the intake cam, from what seems to be just under the throttle body. Again, hot or cold, doesn't matter. Will hear it for about a minute of driving and it'll fade away pretty quick. Leaving the car idling does help if you leave it idle for ~2 minutes etc. No weird sounds under load at all. Car otherwise drives fine. From what I can tell, if you leave the car sitting for maybe 5? minutes, the sound will return on re-start. A little less than it would if the car is left overnight, but not much. Could be related (maybe not) but VCT has only just actually been switched on/wired in recently. Could be piston slap. Could be wrong oil, (5-40, was 10-60 in the past) could be something else entirely. Sound does not appear to be getting any worse since I noticed it (couple of weeks). May have always been there, because the car was previously auto and any throttle will go well over 3k RPM where there's no sound and no load. Any hints as to what this could actually be given the above info? Looking to know where to begin, or whether to begin at all if this is actually a common thing people don't talk about.

It's almost like it's an addictive drug

Nothing, and I mean no turbo in the world can spool up quite like an automatic gearbox will do it with a decent stall converter. Going manual has certainly taken the buzz out of my EFR as everything seems laggy comparatively. Until you want to take a corner and all is forgiven.

Nah no alignment. Wasn't my car either lol, dhf tyres in hallam if down that way. Wasn't 3+1 however, one day I'll go to Costco and actually ask them to price match on re71r or PS4 or pilot sport cups, while I get fat on hotdogs there.

Where were they from? Did think about going Bridgestone or Michelin for dat Costco discount. FYI though, RSRR in 255/40/17 are something like $700 fitted for 4.

FFP also isn't exactly needed, i.e save your money. GTX3582 and 8374 are gonna be too laggy for a motor that only revs to 7k. Unless you rev it to 8k, in which case see earlier comments re: "Stock motor compatibility". Think full boost at 4500RPM and see earlier comments re: "RWD" Excellent for GTR, especially ones already had a rebuild. If you're smart you can mount something that'll do 350+ every day to the stock manifold location and not need a FFP, not need external gates and their plumbing/exhaust and not need a rebuilt motor for much longer and also have such useful features as "having grip" and "boost well before 4k" FWIW I was told in a single gate setup you'd need a 50mm gate. I have one and it works quite well actually, can run as low as 10-11psi. Keep in mind you also have a R34 so clearance in that region for big exhausts and EWG's and screamer pipes may not be compatible with "Air conditioning" unless you have a fabricator with a lot of patience. All of that for 20kw you wont notice and lack of a million things you will

Precisions have mostly fallen out of favor recently. They haven't gone backwards or anything but it looks like they never really got adopted. Seem to be pretty popular with the drag crowd. "Too much lag" and "400kw" and "RWD" aren't compatible (imo) with "Stock engine". GTX3071 if you must go Garrett, but be creative and think G25-660 if you want your wallet to bleed the cost of buying a new setup.

Sell car, buy someone's finished project (i.e mine) etc etc. If you want to pay more money than you have to, I'd be saying go get a the new Garrett G25 range and make that work. If the claims are to be believed that's probably the best way forward. If it 'only' makes 350kw it's going to be a far better car than 400kw on a 2.5 for many, many, many reasons for 99% of street driving. I have a set of 1400cc delphi stainless steel injectors I got through scotty nm35 on here, which have served me well with no dramas whatsoever over many years. They will more than support the power you are after if the 2000-2200's as above are no good, they are definitely overkill in any case as I had no problems in the past pushing what must have been 460+kw

I have the above plus more, a 2.8 neo with a borg warner that made 390kw at 17psi lol. It'd cost about the same if you wanted everything. It would cost you about 1/4 of what you'd pay buying everything new. Send a PM if actually interested. Probably easier to just buy the car and re-shell everything in mine to the coupe you wanted. Save yourself 70k

These are listed as 2.5, the 7670 is 2.0. Will email them and see what they say.

Nothing beats the fury of ol mate in a v6 commo wagon doing 200kmh on opposite side of the road in Mt Waverley yesterday. Must have really needed to take a shit

Budget? (i.e multiple 10s of thousands)

Depends on how much you tyre you actually want to run and how much you want to get your guards rolled. Yes, depending on the above. I have a 9.5 +27. It needs a roll to run 265 tyres. Your answer to the first line of this post will determine whether you do as well.

Anyone here got a source on 90 deg compressor covers for the 7670? I thought this was the B2 frame, though it looks like the outlet of the 8374 is 2.5in, and the 7670 is 2in, can't seem to find an "OEM" style fix for this. Would appreciate something less agricultural than simply welding a 90 degree on literally in a backyard. Given the outlet is VERY close to the 6boost manifold runners Silcon is only going to last so long. So long in this case meaning it died yesterday and I doubt very much that the heat shielding aluminum stuff I put around it is going to keep it alive.

... it literally just sounds like the engine, with no mufflers

Oh I'm sure they are... but they're from a Yaris where as the other option is from a R35 GTR.....

As mentioned, R35 GTR kits for RB's are on the very near horizon. Seems Yaris coils have come and gone. Lots of people (SR20 land) are questioning how good they are long term, kind of underlying the whole "This is a Yaris part" worry that people had. People are much happier to put R35 GTR parts in for very similar cash.

I have 370rwkw Not TUFF enuf

Yes, everyone is a bunch of invite only elitist flogs who are scared to have their idea of "this is a nice car" challenged. I now have cancer from reading about "secret cruises" in Craigieburn for VIP cars.

Y'all bonkers. The only bad thing about screamer pipes is the sound is very jarring if you have an otherwise quiet exhaust system. So when you plumb it in, remove a muffler.