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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    The reason I ask is it'd be strange to have a wideband, and a modifyable ecu, and have a 9:1 AFR on full boost unless as mentioned a bit above, still running stock map. But even then the base map wouldn't be that far out unless something is decidedly not stock anymore, like injectors, or the AFM isn't what the powerFC thinks it is. The answer really is tune it. If not comfortable and it's getting a tune anyway, drive it to the tuner very conservatively and have the spark plugs ready to go when it's going on the dyno ? Any issues (if any!) will become more apparent once the AFR is under control.
  2. Kinkstaah
    9 AFR on boost is uh, plenty rich. But how do you know it's running 9:1? If you have the means to accurately determine that... and a powerFC you should be able to lean it out to a far more reasonable AFR. That said, that will be the first thing the tuner does. I would consider having a spare set of plugs handy if the car is driving around on 98 with a 9:1 AFR because they will foul up pretty quickly and you'd hate to be caught out on the Dyno like that.
  3. Kinkstaah
    Damnit, I was too slow to say "It says GTT on the back of the car" See also, GTST, GTS, GTS4 etc on other cars.
  4. Kinkstaah
    I remember vaguely (months ago) when I did this, I initially hooked the R33 GTST speed sensor into the wiring loom for the wrong auto speed sensor, as you have described the R34 GTT auto loom has wiring for two sensors as the auto has two "speed sensors". Unfortunately I'm in no position to get under my car and check it out, but I do remember getting it backwards and going 'aha' upon consulting both diagrams (i.e manual gtst box and R34 GTT)
  5. Kinkstaah
    My car was auto and we wired controls into the steering wheel (i.e we had an aftermarket transmission ECU and wanted to use the shift paddles to actually shift). The thing we noticed is after using the wiring "after" the clock spring (i.e not changing anything on the wheel itself or the clock sping itself) that the up and down on each side are linked. There's actually only two outputs to ground on the wheel as opposed to 4. That worked well enough natively for us as we wanted "shift up" and "shift down" but without any detail whatsoever I remembered thinking/noting down that there was only going to be 2 functions that I could map to the wheel later, as I had visions of mapping it to launch control switches etc once the car was manual. Car is manual now but I can't find a use for all the buttons anymore, I've made it all too simple
  6. Kinkstaah
    It's all fixable There's a certain amount of satisfaction in salvaging a previously unloved car that didn't quite get what you feel it deserved.
  7. Kinkstaah
    Also, the RB25DE Ecu can't be Nistuned, at least it couldn't back in the day when I had one. May have changed now as I admittedly hadn't looked into it for several years, but I got the impression that the actual ECU was fairly different hardware wise to the GTT one.
  8. Kinkstaah
    They absolutely would know, you wouldn't even need to contact JJ as much as you could buy the direct part from their site. http://justjap.com/bc-racing-coilover-suspension-kit-nissan-skyline-er34-gt-and-gt-t-4ws-rear-fork-type.html
  9. Kinkstaah
    How sure are you that you don't have a leak? What happens if you block off the hose going to the IACV? In the end I hollowed out my R34 IACV entirely, and just ran another IACV in the hose that runs to it. Only going to really work if you have an aftermarket ECU that is controlling said IACV though. Note: My 34 one failed and when it fails, it fails open. As above, no leaks, throttle stop bolt entirely out, idle of 2000RPM. Why not just change TPS voltage when closed back to 0.2? I noticed in my car (again not completely the same) that voltage when car on but not running may have been 0.2, but I would find that 0% throttle with car running the voltage was different, perhaps 0.5 actually.
  10. Kinkstaah
    I assure you it was - The problem in the end was I didn't realize how atrocious all other setups actually were in the real world. You can get used to anything it turns out! Everything else I drove I was sorely disappointed in. The hype of these things and larger displacement IS real - I just experienced the difference between them backwards.
  11. Kinkstaah
    Completely eyeballing it only, I am saying they are probably +20. I have 9.5 +27, and yours look to be sitting out about 7mm more than mine :p, and I wouldn't say they are +12's because they don't look 15mm further out than mine. Surely the wheel says though on the back of it?
  12. Kinkstaah
    The R34 also has a manual throttle stop bolt, I always found that adjusting that was easier than the screw in the side of the AAC itself which appears to be made out of something with the strength of warm butter. I had many R34 AAC's fail in general to the point where I bypassed it with a BMW unit lol
  13. Kinkstaah
    Jordy's info is right. I wouldn't buy from that site, especially if they list the R34 as a "GTS" Grab a set from Justjap and get them shipped to the States, it all has to be shipped to the USA one way or another as it's all coming from Taiwan. That way you will absolutely get the correct part.
  14. Kinkstaah
    I would have been happy with a "73.5/67" should one have existed, mainly to fill the gap of "I want something that maxes out at 350/370rwkw. Which has always been a pretty decent spot for 90's turbo Nissans with everything else taken into account.
  15. Kinkstaah
    I agree, it is similar to a GTX3076R with a larger turbine side, i.e 3576. (wheel is actually a little larger than a 35r wheel) The question really is how much power does @ActionDan intend to track his car with. 350 all day? 7670 with room to spare. 7163 if 300 is fine for you. Still would consider external gating it due to what @MaximuSmurf mentioned earlier. Sadly there is nothing in between the 7163 and 7670.
  16. Kinkstaah
    The 7670 is the turbo I used to have, Up to 450kw, maybe even 465kw. It's a big turbo. It's not as big a turbo if you're realistically considering using it as a track car, i.e always up in that rev range. You'd have to define "sexy head" as this is a turbo you'd be need to be living at 5-8k at constantly. It is GTX3576 sized.
  17. Kinkstaah
    So what you are saying is ultimately with having 2 subframes, I can create my own for joy and happiness and success. That is what I was looking for. Does anyone do a "Hamburger with the lot" bushing kit? I do plan to provide the subframe + said bushes to a workshop with a press to do this. I noticed awhile back I didn't actually need more alignment settings than what Whiteline (etc) adjustable bushes actually offer. So new bushes, enough alignment and better NVH and friendly with the legalities, kind of win win for me.
  18. Kinkstaah
    Hello. I have a R34 GTT and because reasons, I need to maintain stock geometry. However, I can change the geometry. I have a few questions. 1) Can I get a non HICAS subframe and bolt everything from the GTT subframe into said subframe? 2) What parts of said subframe determine whether the rear shocks can be fork or eyelet type? I do not want to change from current fork type because I would like to keep my coilovers. My ultimate goal is to convert my current car into having stock rear toe arms I can set with an adjustable whiteline bush for configurable toe. Answers to inevitable questions: I have a HICAS eliminator kit already. I can not use this. The diff has to come out because reasons anyway. The tailshaft is removed for reasons anyway as is the exhaust. There's not much in the way of removing the subframe. I would also like to put every bush known to man into whatever subframe (i.e the R34 non HICAS one) goes back into the car. Is there a kit for this? I don't know the names of every bush that is on every site and this is quite confusing to me. I do have *some* bushes already. Can I re-use these? I have pineapples, and rear camber adjustment for the current uprights in the GTT. How much of this can be re-used? OPTION 2: Buy HICAS parts and put into GTT subframe. Surely no one wants option 2. I searched, oh god I searched but I'd like confirmation before I buy a subframe I can't use, or one that requires me to replace my diff, or axles, or coilovers or buy whiteline bushes I already own. I would much rather put HICAS back in than do that.
  19. Kinkstaah
    Thanks Duncan - I have a R34 GTT, with 9.5 +27 rims atm (which I hate cleaning). I assumed the R34 GTR rims would fit, but you never know with spokes. I had the LMGT2's with 18x9 +32 not fit, so I would feel mighty stupid if I bought a set from interstate to find they didn't clear.
  20. Kinkstaah
    Hello. I am in Melbourne and would love a set of R34 GTR rims depending on condition. Also depending on whether they fit my 356MM kit, which is the Attakd brand from Justjap. Similar if not identical to the D2/Ksport calipers. If you have any information re: rims or even if they fit on that kind of setup I'd love to know!
  21. Kinkstaah
    PM'ed.
  22. Kinkstaah
    Eh it works as well as any 3 port mac valve. I used it on my setup when an official MAC product decided to rattle the center piston loose entirely. Can't say it was good or bad or any different really, but it exists and its something people are gonna need for boost control anyway. Mounting a boost solenoid somewhere is always a headache of mild proportions, being able to bolt it directly to the compressor housing is nice enough. Makes for one hell of a short hose to the solenoid too, which is supplied. One less thing to worry about really
  23. Kinkstaah
    The Borg Warner EFR DO come with a boost MAC solenoid, bolted to the compressor cover. It works well. In addition to the inbuilt Bov too. IWG can be hit or miss with the EFR's. If in doubt, go external which has been proven to work great 100% of the time. An 8374 will beat a GTX3582. Especially a GT3582. Consider a 7670, because that can and will do 370kw. (it has done up to 465 on E85 on some 2.5's)
  24. Kinkstaah
    Lol birds. They are totally different games, which reward different skills. However it's like asking what is the better fighting sport, MMA, or Table tennis? What's the better FPS game, Quake, or League of Legends? It's not a shooter anymore. It is chalk and cheese and they can't be honestly comparable. One of them is raw gameplay ability and one is memorizing where to camp. Cmon. The things you listed I would flat out dismiss as not skills. They are bullshit cheese mechanics to get around the skillcap of a game. It takes elements away from it. Deagle one taps? Every gun should be deagle one taps. Managing spray? How about just hitting the target. The game IS dumbed down. Skill (or more appropriately, strategy) appeared in other areas to make up for it, because you had to. I was playing when CS 1.0 appeared and I saw it happen. Kids these days literally cannot understand ? The oldschoolers left and got old, and CS/COD/Overwatch/TF is all that is left.
  25. Kinkstaah
    Close thread - All items are now sold.
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