Kinkstaah

Realistically from an engineering and fun standpoint what you are doing is fine. If there's no issue, or "no issue" then man do it. The only reason people plumb them in is because we're worried what people think about the sound, and by 'people' we mean police. It's juvenile, but car people love loud cars and juvenile shit (when noone is watching)

I dug up the ol EFR vs Garrett Dyno I had at the time, looks like the EFR does in fact come on sooner, but "Worlds apart" it certainly wasn't. This was the EFR at 18psi, and the GTX at the time was ~24psi. VCT isn't working on either, but honestly looking at a graph like that the auto made anything come on HARD and it's really pretty hard to judge transient and response in that context. I haven't posted the dyno sheet of the car as it sits currently as there wasn't much point with a MBC, and VCT not working.

The only direct comparison I have between these two turbos was when the car was Auto with a (good) aftermarket stall converter in it. The 7670 had better transient response, though on an auto that is hard to judge. In terms of when the boost came on, there was no notable difference between the two. This could also be masked by the auto. I can't overstate how much more the auto made the car spool up compared to the manual. The car is manual now (and all my calculations about how much driveline loss between auto and manual were correct), and I never drove the GTX3582 in manual land. Without doubt the biggest lag-inducer in the setup was when I added the clutch!!!. But, I still prefer it. If we're talking boost threshold, no notable difference, for me, with my setup at the time. If we're talking transient, then yes, but the EFR is also on a T4, TS, 6boost setup while the GTX3582 was bolted to the stock manifold. So not exactly apples for apples either, part of that difference surely manifold based.

I actually think the 7670 (in 1.05) and the 8374 (in 1.05) are closer than most people realise. Certainly more than I realised. I never wanted 400kw, and I never wanted 450kw, but I'd be damn surprised if this DOESN'T make 450kw if I decide to run 24psi through it. I'm just relaying my experiences with this specific turbo as most of the people here have the 8374, Maybe BW shipped me the wrong model number (no, they didn't) I wanted to go a step smaller than the GTX3582 I had, but it looks like I actually went nowhere at all size-wise by going from GTX3582 to EFR 7670. Yes, I'm surprised by this as well. The EFR result from that evo is here -> https://www.full-race.com/store/borg-warner-efr/turbos-efr-series/borgwarner-efr-7670-turbo-2/ (sorry, 640hp is 477kw, not 488). My experiences suggest the turbo behaves exactly like a turbo of that size, that'd max out about that power... coincidentally.... a GTX3582 is also this size, and behaves similarily, which is exactly what I had on this motor before

I mean it's not a lot of boost for that much power (in my opinion) showing that it's either an efficient setup or a large turbo. I am not running a stock RB25, I have a RB28 neo with a fair amount of head work. It's a long long way from a stock RB25. Mat's car is a good example, I still think the 7670 is probably fine if you want 450kw lol. It (the 7670) behaves exactly as you would expect a 450kw turbo to behave. If someone had a stock R33 RB25DET and said "I want a 320kw setup" noone would/should recommend something 450kw capable and running at 320 to be "the best solution". If the 8374 is a GTX3582/3584RS competitor, then the 7670 is ... a GTX3582 competitor or a GTX3576 competitor which is also very very VERY close to a 3582 in real world. It is not a GTX3076/GTX3071 competitor. It's not in that category. Stepping down "one size" i.e (3582 -> 3076) is not the same in BW land (8374 -> 7670). I thought this, but maybe I should have looked/read a little more. That said, on my car, the 7670 is about perfect. I like the fact that peak power is pretty much 6800-7300rpm, feels extremely linear to me and with big rear housings it's not going to choke/overheat/explode manifolds or otherwise be a pain in the ass. But for me to run ~310-320kw to preserve my gearbox, I get to run a whopping 10.5psi. Which I'm OK with, but it's hardly the most responsive way to make that power, nor is it to make 350, and a GTX3076 won't be running that low boost to get there.

by "i've seen" I mean USA results on Evo's and STI's etc. Given how the turbo behaves and looking at it on my car on the dyno I wouldn't find it that suprising if you want to really lean on it like the 'Muricans seem to do. I wouldn't be surprised if mine gets to 450, given it's getting very close to 400 at 17psi, which most would consider is very very lazy. It's certainly not a "350kw" turbo, nor is it out of legs and "400 is maxxing it out" region of turbo either, which to me is what you'd expect if you're dropping a size down from the 8374. Quite a few people have thought of putting a 7670 onto stock RB25's and to me it just doesn't seem like a great idea for both keeping the bottom end in one piece, and lag, considering 7k rev limit as opposed to the 26 with 8.

I did get my dyno and I found a few things about my setup. 1) VCT wasn't working. Grounded it manually on the dyno and got some response. After crawling around in the heat, found out that wiring was never completed, may not have been wired in for years since I re-shelled the car. Whoops. Was un-noticable with the auto box helping out in the past with spool. 2) My boost solenoid is definitely farked. Found out towards the end of the session that it'd work once or twice, and after getting hot it'd start doing WEIRD SHIT, so it was a mechanical issue and not my backyard tuning, which was nice. Has a good ol MBC in there now and that behaved over multiple runs but was sub-optimal. Picture is after VCT, 20psi @ 3765 rpm, (I added more fuel after...) though it could be improved a bit, it may be 3690rpm or what have you as thats just where my mouse cursor was at the trace. Is "coming on boost" 19.9psi or 20.5psi, etc etc. This is with a boost tee, so it could be improved with proper EBC holding the gate shut longer ETC. Given the turbo does not fall over at 7300rpm+ I am pretty convinced that it is a 'big turbo is big' and seeing results of people making 488kw with a 7670 makes me think this turbo in it's 1.05 trim really is just a big turbo. The turbine wheel is 2mm bigger than a GTX3582 and all the data backs it up. In short, I'd say that the 7670 1.05 is certainly a LOT closer to the 8374 than it is closer to the 7163, given my car made ~380-390kw at 17psi it shows all the signs of it being a big turbo. Just something to keep in mind for those who "Don't want 450kw like the 8374", the 7670 in 1.05 isn't that turbo as it'll definitely also do 450, making me think this thing really isn't suited for an unopened 2.5 for those who are looking in that market.

They will all 'fit' but some of the wiring is different. If the ONLY thing wrong is the lens being broken like that, you could throw them in the oven and replace the broken lens of your current headlight with the working lens of any R34 headlight, new or used. Then you don't need to worry about anything else. Having one Xenon light and one Halogen light is uh....

How did this compare to the events at DECA in the end? I.e skidpan size, track time and such? Amount of runs? Realise first time there's some kinks to work out but what was the vibe in regards to the venue?

There's so many times I wish hook turns were considered normal. I would MUCH, MUCH, MUCH, MUCH prefer to do a hook turn to turn right at every intersection, I hate that waiting in the middle of the intersection trying to turn right as everyone tries to beat the yellow across etc. Let me sit there and do a 90 degree when the light goes green. It's just a better way and I reckon it'd avoid accidents with people trying to beat their respecetive light. (whether turning right, or going straight)

As mentioned even in the last year their product range has about doubled and their naming has changed to boot. Makes sense that they're continually refining the product, I guess as they can now say "WTAC Winnars" you'd want to make sure your product is front line and catering to as many needs as you can

I want to say this is because MCA have always used 'different' sping rates and make the difference up with valving. Or something. Their numbers have always been signifigantly higher but it doesn't translate to 'more hardness/firmness' as such as if you ran around running 14/11 BC's or Bilsteins or Tein's or Shockworks or etc.

Argh, if only I could trust these fit my brakes. Someone apparently fitted a 380mm kit under these (in 17!) Any photos of the fitment at the car? Seems like it'd poke. Mainly the rear. Can you check the sizes for this - It doesn't look like these are the sizes going by your build thread photos, but maybe different rims.

I mean one of them... I think a (supposed) 660hp turbo is pretty perfect for a 2.5 or a 3L. Just need someone to be a guinea pig to see if the wild claims are true. 2 of them to go and make 1300hp is just going to end in tears, or running them very lazily making them less than effective. The correct answer is get RWC then go single and keep the old ones in a box.

.....then put one of them on.

The rear actually scrubs more than the front, just a FYI. Expect/Budget/Roll the rears before putting them on

Seems a little counter-inuitive. Bad tyres, uncomfortable shocks, but you seem to want a great road ride that's also great on the track? There's only so far that is even possible. MCA or Shockworks will do what you want however. Shockworks will be cheaper, but BC ER's aren't actually that bad and I'm not sure you'd notice some world of amazing difference, the changes are going to be subtle, there's no way around the fact that making it softer on the street will make it softer on the track. Everyone has rave reviews about physically calling MCA and talking to them (Josh gets a good rap) so it's probably worth just picking up the phone with an idea of what you really want out of this particular car. The cost is high but everyone seems to say its well worth it in the end.

Oh yeah, they are full "pro" things, but I just had no idea that boats were physically capable of turning like F1 cars, ever. Quite eye-opening!

Pictured - 9.5 +27 with 265's Bottom pic is *after* rolling/pulling guards.

Hey mate. They're basically perfect, as I have 9.5 and +27 all round. You WILL need to roll/lip the guards if you want to run chunky tyres. I run 265's all round and I do not get scrub and I mean that will barely fit. The 9.5 +38/+35 will hit at the front. Need a spacer. IMO, the +27 at the rear pokes more than the front does, I was suprised that when putting same wheel size on all 4 the fronts natrually are a little more in. I want a 10+38 on the rear so I can run a 285/295 for max tyre. So ultimately, you may need a spacer or two if you go for the +35/38 combination, the 27 will max it out. 35 with some spacers/extended studs will get it to sit in a little.

Until you see some of the fast modded boats go around, read something like 4-5G in cornering ability, in a boat. Was like um ok!

IWG versions of most EFR setups have proven to be a bit disappointing. Don't forget this turbo has a rear end wheel bigger than a gt35, it will always be 'laggy' its a pretty big turbo, not being able to spin it up due to gate issues (or 98) will take the wind out of it.

Because it was never needed for any other turbo and rough approximations by power seem to have done the job 100% of the time [emoji14]

Is it just a pair of the rp01s or a full set?

I have this turbo so a vested interest on how this turns out [emoji14]