Kinkstaah

Or just buy my setup. Its what you need when you mangle a MV auto setup

It needs more fuel to crank over and 'start' but near immediately (at least on my car) it stalls if you give it any throttle. Looking at the AFR's in this state when you can, it isn't lean, nor too rich and stalling, but adding air makes the whole thing lean out and stall for that first ... ~5 seconds of running the motor. Exact same scenario 20 seconds later results in everything being fine, and it'll happen overnight on first start, but it's never a problem say, leaving car outside in winter between 7am and 5pm etc. Only overnight :p. Yes you can see why an OEM wouldn't want this and understand why Caltex would put 70% Ethanol in Eflex in winter, as this problem absolutely doesn't happen with 98.

You can cold start on E85 fine. You just have to define, fine. It was never really actually a problem to get going. At its absolute worst, expect a stall when you first fire it up (near instantly), and then you're good to go for the rest of the day. It needs *some* heat to create vapor. 98 is absolutely always happier to start and run when your car has been running for 30 seconds, but any enthusiast doesn't really give a shit if they have to crank it 5 times instead of 3, or lets it stall once in the morning if it was 5C overnight.

You would spend sooooooooo much more than 20K to reproduce this.

Oh I'm sure it will show up for sale, just like Gymhkana said lol

400hp/300kw at the wheels can be used by some decent single plate clutches however. Could save money and they are pretty simple to drive. NPC is another option if you don't want a twinplate clutch. The nismo single plate clutch is also rated to just above 300KW atw (just over 400hp) but keep in mind 400whp is about as far as any of the good single plate clutches go before they become undrivable pieces of junk. Twinplate Coppermix is technically overkill, but I bought one anyway after driving a bunch of people's clutches and figured the extra is worth it for a better shift given you perform that action 100 times in a 10 minute drive.

Not worth it, the piping you think is causing a problem isn't what's causing the problem. The crossover setup can and does work fine up to truly stupid power levels (think 30,000 dollar engine build levels) The only reason you'd change it is for looks, and if you're the kind that is into engine builds that sit around with the bonnet open instead of driving it with the bonnet closed then I'm out of ideas

Yep, looking for the leather one, though the one pictured is nice, but I already have a different shift knob to use in the meantime.

Sold!

Xtreme HD Organic Clutch Kit, Suit RB Push Type (R32, R33) New (still in box with brochures) Xtreme HD Organic Clutch Kit. Comes with Friction disk, Pressure plate, and Flywheel. hasn't been used, I bought as part of a conversion kit but I need a more aggressive clutch. Costs about $600 new with a flywheel according to google. This is Xtreme's "Stage 1 kit" which is rated to about 250KW max, and it's a sprung centre organic which will be very very VERY easy to drive on. Pickup preferred, can ship at buyer cost but as it's heavy it'll cost a bit to post! Would prefer not to seperate the kit/flywheel! Send me a PM if interested or lowballing!

You have successfully explained your problem. Also, it's a nice setup and probably anything more will make the car slower overall

My plugs were just fouly (which is odd because we had them cleaned when my turbo went on.. maybe a month/1500kms ago), and previously were never that state. My specific plugs looked like this: So there wasn't a great deal of room for anything when carbon gets involved. But yeah, they were a bit "Carbony" which is odd because E85 generates less carbon and 'fouling'. But yeah, misfires at idle/very low load and misfires at 20psi, Carboning up, looking rather "tan" or a darker tan than mentioned made me think they were no longer the best option. All hail BCPR7ES (I bought 18)

I didn't research here. I spoke to Trent @ Chequered while my car was literally being tuned, and asked him what plugs to recommend for my setup at the time, taking in account my timing, ease of change, desire to not have it blow out and for it to last forever. What he recommended did just that, I never had spark issues until I took a lot of timing away, and took a lot of boost away. So I was asking on a more common setup, which is closer to what I have now, and the BCPR7ES work really quite fine, no misfires at all and I'm really happy with that, and really not that hard to change or check. The old plugs really were going strong but not suited to what I am doing now (they were also too cold a range, looking at them out of the car)

Bumpo, $1800, sitting on my bedroom floor making 0kw, it is sad!

Super drivable built auto box setup! Every now and then someone posts saying "I'd like to upgrade my gearbox as I have an automatic Nissan Skyline". A lot of the time people say GO MANUAL and every now and then someone gets a shift kit. But every now and then someone resists the repeated insistence of people to just GO MANUAL and jumps off the deep end. I am that guy. Now you can be that guy, at a massive, massive discount. It could almost be argued it was a decent idea. This gearbox is a RE401B from the R34 GTT, which has been overhauled from scratch by DTM Automatics in Geelong after being dis-satisfied with the MV Kit that was previously in the car. Which died. They have made a completely custom valve body which supposedly flows amazingly, with upgraded bands and have a billet shift servo. Fancy words. This has not died, for many many years. In addition to this there is a custom flex plate that has been heavily reinforced over the standard one (it's a modified version of the yellaterra flex plate for the RB30, to make sure you don't snap the stock one with your soon to be massive torque. Note: The stock one is NOT good enough for 300kw! It has a custom Torque Converter from TCE which are one of the best in the business, according to a fair bit of googling. By "custom" I mean I went in there with the blueprints for the engine, and the dyno sheet from the most recent tune and they took that and built a stall converter purely for that purpose. It's enough to generate 5-10psi at stall near instantly which is WAY MORE than you will need to obliterate any road tyre off the line. The downside of that is such a converter creates heat, but don't worry about that, because It has twin coolers, complete with a nice digital guage to tell you the transmission temp. If you're worrying, I got it to 100C during a full session at Sandown without any kind of cooldown lap. It usually drives around town at about the 50-60 mark. This is actually under what Castrol kind of recommend for performance driving, and usually about 80C. In otherwords, the coolers are cool. But the best part about it is the PCS TCM-2000 which is a standalone ECU which will cost you about $1000 USD to buy on its own, let alone wiring it in, let alone tuning it. What this allows is for you to tune your shift maps, it allows you two different maps which is already tuned in this car, for a more pleasant "D" mode to your super hardcore triptronic/manual mode. The best part about it all though, is that unlike other aggressive shift kits, which in order to shift hard up top, have to shift harder down low, this behaviour is reversed with the ECU. Allowing nice comfortable shifts down low, and HARD shifts when you are giving it the beans. All controllable by the TCM, and it absolutely will not shift in manual mode until you tell it, under any circumstances. If you want, you can tune the kick down/shift up parameters of the "auto" mode as well. It has held 300-420KW for years. Trent @ Chequered Tuning would and has vouched for its unrelenting reliability. If it died tomorrow and I wanted I'd take it back to DTM and get them to make another one. See here -> You could too, if you wanted, but if you did you'd probably be paying north of $10,000+ fitting and wiring and tuning it all. You should buy this instead. Because noone uses an auto, before this comes out of the car, I'll make a short video showing it in "action" to give an idea of how livable it is or isn't at some point. If you are local to Vic, I'm happy to take you for a spin in the car so you can drive it for yourself to see if it is something you want. I'd much rather do this for any interested buyers so let me know, all the cool kids are on paddle shifters nowadays, didn't you know? I want $3500, which is actually about the cost of the ECU, the Torque Converter and the Flex plate. I am 100% certain you will send lowballs, dear reader.

Nope, just had misfires at 20psi and a random one at idle today so wanted to have something on standby. $80 plugs you use "forever" I don't trust to actually last forever

Guess I'm headed to RE Autoparts then! They seem harder to find than most, these plugs, figured people would have found some other alternative on a shelf. Good to know the BKR7E is usable if in a pinch

I have some iridium 8's that were $75 a plug and were scheduled to last a lifetime. They haven't given me an issue but I do get misfires at 20psi (380+kw). So I thought to stop using amazing super plugs, and wanted a basic plug that is known to work, as its cheaper to try that first than replace Splitfires (which are now getting on in age, almost 10 years). I got a misfire at idle that went away, and I'd like to have plugs in my hand ready to go should they be needed instead of looking ages later when I have a car running on 2cyl or some shit.

Car question: Whats an equivalent spark plug for BCPR7ES or something that is a decent copper plug that can suit up to 400rwkw (including 400kw). And can I buy them off a shelf. If so, where. All info seems to have disappeared about 2012 re: Spark plugs and none of this stuff is on shelves anymore and I want to buy them on the weekend, in Melbourne.

I changed this recently, there are two cabin filters yes.

Link doesn't work, and I want burgers.

I plan on selling mine very soon if anyone here actually wants to buy one Has been running at various power (300-420kw thorugh the auto) for years. The 34 box can take it, but mine was a 10k exercise to do it right, make it streetable, retain steering wheel buttons, tune for regular driving/sport driving etc.

WTB Nismo Shift knob! I am in Vic, but will be happy to pay post. Yes I'm after the leather one, if anyone has one hanging around! Please send a PM to me as opposed to replying here, I'll be more likely to see it. Thanks!

I did this on my car, I had the "Xenon" lights that had been mangled by compliancing. From memory, the Xenon wiring just has 4 wires whereas the non Xenon has 3. 2 are grounds.. the others are the same colours. All I did was unplug the old headlight, cut off the plug that was in the xenons.. and match the colours of the wires coming out of the non-xenon plug. Worked perfectly.

Derp. For some reason I thought it was a 34. I suppose someone could have put a 34 box in a 33... but yeah if you have already changed the clutch on it and didn't notice it was originally auto till now, I'd wager you're fine!