Kinkstaah

I'm not sure they came in different hardnesses? Going from memory only - I had set them up in the balanced setup. I also have poly bushes, so I have both poly bushes and pineapples. This is what my memory tells me at least. I'll have to take a look under there to be sure. The tramp was so bad that I managed to eject/kill a diff bushing, so those I know are stock. The tramp is bad enough that you are 200% sure you are doing severe damage to the car. It's not just chirping or vibration, it feels like you're hitting a speed hump/kerb 10 times a second. The issue has persisted between subframes! (I went from Hicas to non hicas subframe and replaced every bush a few years ago now) so I'm entirely lost. Every arm is factory.

As someone who has pineapples, and horrible axle tramp... should I change these to collars? Is that what you're saying here? Why did you choose these instead of getting pineapples where you said you had good experiences of? I'd love to even attempt to get rid of axle tramp, I either get complete bogginess or absolute insane wheelspin, anything even remotely in between results in filling-removal axle tramp, to the point where launching the car is just not something I do.

Lucky for that, because putting ethanol in fuel only lowers the bulk cost of fuel if it's in 91 Add it to 98, 85% of it even and it quintuples in price. Strange physics. f**k you United, Gouging c***ts.

Well, now I know that object exists

Not feasible to fix the boot lid you had? Damage looked minor/hard to even see :p Source: Drove into something recently and you should be happy you didn't!

I actually have a set of these. They didn't do the trick for track use (but were more than appropriate on the road) for my previous 8 pot/R33GTST kit. I have a 370z kit now and they actually seem damn fine on the street, like _really_ happy with them on the street, enough that I may have actually been confident enough with them for light track if you have a lighter car and don't overbrake like I do. I'm on the fence and have Project Mu club racer pads, which feel much the same on the street - There may not be that much in them. So FWIW I didn't use them on track (and probably won't) but they are WAY more than anyone ever needs for any kind of road use or motorkhana or drag or drift or something like that.

I definitely agree with you there - I never click on content for cars I would never ever be able to get or compete with/against/be seen next to. Seeing a MX5 compete with a FD RX7 will make people upset though, for sure. Even in 2.5L Turbo form which is pretty grass roots. (or at least as grass roots as classic cars can be) Yes we're all classic car owners now.

It's kind of interesting - They definitely do builds that split the difference between what they like and what will generate views and engagement. The NC Platform always surprises everyone in a good way, in an uncomfortably good way some may say. They could throw a LS in there and arguably have the best (and best performing) car of the entire stable. But that isn't necessarily what draws views, because people viewing don't want to accept the vegetables of a LS NC MX5 being a superior vehicle in every way (including fun) than a RB26 240Z. This is also why there's not a lot of content about the GR Yaris (on the web in general). They're too good, yet 'only a Yaris' The community doesn't want certain cars to be as good as they are - to beat their hero cars, and I believe the NC MX5 is absolutely one of those cars.

Yeah - My key still does the chime thing. I followed the procedure but it didn't activate on the (identical) third set of keyfob that I had. I vaguely remember the alarm saying you can only pair two keys with it. Now that I've dug it up, it appears that you very much can pair keyfobs to the alarm system. (which are the fobs I use to unlock the car). I have successfully diverted the thread and can probably not use the OEM keyfob ever again unless I use the aftermarket alarm and attempt to pair the OEM keyfob to it. Which might just work, or not :D. I definitely used the nissan method and not the aftermarket alarm method.

My fob has never worked, I once attempted to follow the procedure to re-key it, (I have other fobs for the car alarm thing in there). I actually have three of them. Do aftermarket alarms take over the pairing mechanism for central locking? Or do they piggyback off it? I suppose it depends on the system, right? I have four sets of keys/keyfobs. One definitely works, one I think works, one definitely doesn't work, and I have the OEM one that has never worked :p. Is this fixable/workable/whatever? I mean I know it's beyond "just clean it" but how *do* they get synced up?

It's actually a really weird comparison... the MX5 is on another level and I kinda question this comparison at all. It'd be closer to compare it to a GTI/Golf/Hatch anything that kicks around. NC MX5 with a turbo has the right to go up with and beat the FD RX7 or 180SX or any other JDM hero car. That's the comparison that would really ruffle feathers.

Ah yes but were you responsible? In the time I've had it (just before Christmas) I spun off the track twice and drove into things twice, so four separate incidents.. in two outings. Luckily I have a full OEM GTR front end to put on which is hopefully not a precursor for further, future, more expensive mistakes to come. It is some consolation that anyone who would want to buy my Altia bar would have to paint it anyway, the guards, too. (if they can get over the asymmetry). Hopefully over the weekend I will disassemble and see how badly things are bent. From what it looks like, the headlight has actually just been pushed back and bent the headlight support (which .. somehow... crushed the guard in). I guess the headlight plastic is strong stuff.

More mistakes! Welp. I drove into the back of a Territory's tow ball at a roundabout. Then I scraped my own gate driving back home. I am not a very good driver At least the aircon is degassed now, in prep for the engine to come out. What horrors will unfold next?

Now you have a spare!

You know, when you said '24 Dodge I legitimately interpreted that as 2024.

Can I ship you my non symmetrical guards then? lol

It's not that E30 is bad. I recently did a track day and half of the reason I took ethanol is because when I ran out of jerries, 'some' ethanol is better than none for protection and stuff, even N/A. The problem with E30 is attempting to maintain E30. It's an akward target to hit and the maths required make the whole thing near impossible very fast.

United E85 is always 85% ethanol. At least it claims to be. But that goes out of the window about thirty seconds after you put a tank of it into your car and can't do the math to determine if you have 76% ethanol, or 47% ethanol or 26% ethanol because you put 33L in, then 16L in, then a full tank of 98, then "Some" E85. Ethanol tunes that aren't full flex or full E85 all the time are just absolutely a waste of time. Don't be stupid and ruin your car.

Auto is at least 10% (from my real, actual experience with different torque converters and manual on the same setup) ~185rwkw at 11.6psi (peak!) is entirely what one would expect without a FMIC or anything else on the intake, it does bleed off towards the higher RPM so it's what, 9psi there? Note: There is nothing that can be done about this with a manual boost tee. If you want to hold it steady and gain more top end, well - You will need electronic boost control.....

Believe it or not, it's about right, remember it's also the 4AT which is worth a good bit too. This sounds along just right with everything else ever posted here on a stock turbo at reasonable boost.

You have the option to do this. Nobody but me ever did this (go slower, I mean) Everyone seems to fall victim to "This would be a great setup for you, but for me, I need a little more power..."

No, lets be honest here. I went to Winton and did a track day, for all the mods and V8 power and craziness I posted up a time that a K24 stock motor Honda Accord can do on the same tyres (narrower, too) 250kw and learning how to drive the f**kin thing is the sweet spot.

It actually means give it less throttle.

Damn, as someone who just glued the damn things in (very slightly askew but better) I wish I saw this, or someone made this. Would be worth linking this to Boosted International. They're always looking for product ideas and this is something they would likely make.

You know what, I'll double or nothing. Save your money, buy a V8 Manual Mustang in 2 years and have a more fun street car with better support and all that. I often tell people "if I could do it all again, I wouldn't". Sell your R34 GTT to someone, spend the 20k in difference between that and a 2018 Gen2 V8 Manual Mustang. I'll bet you will have the $ in your pocket by the time you spend the ~20K differential on mods and get them installed. Just planting this seed for future regrets. Blah blah, wisdom of people who would do it differently who are at the end of the road you are just starting on, etc. Car modding is often death by a thousand cuts as you wait to afford the next big mod. Imagine a 2 door Skyline with a 330KW N/A V8 Revving to 7500rpm like the RB25, with 315's all round.