Kinkstaah

I have rolled guards on a 34 and a slight pull which is considered to have about the same as a 33 (generally speaking, i.e y ou will also need roll and a pull) I have 9.5 at the front with +27 and it is perfect. So if you want extended studs and a 10mm spacer this will clear just fine. I have 265's all round but the front can be made to fit, but I think you'll be hitting suspension components stock with that fitment. In short, doing my maths with my own car leads me to believe you absolutely will need a spacer. Yes, I too wish the RPF1 had a decent offset for GTT/GTST owners in 9.5. Or even 9+22. This size is also perfect but only comes in 17....

If it's done right then it'll be mechanically identical. The only thing that may trip you up is if you have to replace the clutch on it, as it may be a R33 gearbox which uses a different clutch to the R34. Worth knowing when the time comes!

This thread is clearly a trainwreck from the start The 34 is objectively a superior car in every way. Noone has ever put a R33 RB25 in a R34, plenty of people have put Neos into other things. They're a better motor.

Putting it into my 34 with a 7670 and only the one gate it was pretty tight and lines and heat shielding went bonkers to hopefully not melt it all. I recall thinking "I'm glad I don't have a 2nd gate here" I actually thought for my application I should have gone IWG and would recommend IWG to anyone else due to it.. Then again, twin gate seems to be working OK for all the GTR guys, and in your application you don't need pesky things like AC or other daily concerns taking up space. If your wastegate lasts then I can be happy mine will too. Wrap all the things!

Re: that twin gate setup Not worried about melting the lid/diaphragm of the gate that is almost in direct contact with the dump pipe, on the track? I got lots of 'worried looks' about where my gate sat and it was nowhere even close to the dump as that one is?

This is long gone unfortunately - Mods please lock/delete/etc! I do have the Garrett version for sale though....

to be fair "GTR offset" makes way more sense than "Stage 2".... like way

This is simply a side effect of newer cars I believe. To answer it, yeah it's more "soulless" than a R33 GTR or R33 GTST. The Megane RS275 is good...but it's still less raw than a R33 or a S15. What you don't know/see is that the R33 GTST/GTR feel like "Soulless Computerised Junk" when compared to an early turbo MX5, and THAT feels soulless and boring and 'too easy' when compared to my friend's supercharged 1979 E320I Coupe.

They kind of respond stupidly well. Stupidly well as in... an intake, and an intercooler/dump pipe = 11.7s quarter miles with a flash tune, and stock everything else. This is a BIG improvement on stock, and you get all the other benefits of a 'nicer' 2017 car. If you look at a slightly used golf R vs say, a modified R33 GTR the Golf is actually better bang for buck performance wise, and luxury wise it belts it out of the park with extreme fury, and they're only going to get cheaper..

There isn't actually much in the RWC documentation (read it!) about Emissions. RWC people pick stuff as "un RWC" which is not listed in the Handbook at all. "But I need pictures!!11" they say. Cool, take a picture and link the actual documentation which doesn't mention this. It is at best, extremely vague.

This results in you doing this to every shop that exists, and having no car at the end of it. They will also charge you for the half done job that has completed, parts etc. The next place will just say "I do not want the job"

Your piping surely ain't worse than mine - It should not "blow off" the track and my piping is with a return flow and standard plenum, I mean, you saw it. Save your money. Get clamps, better joiners, etc. My stock piping was fine with a return flow cooler at 420kw in Auto land (which I calculated is 13-15% power loss over manual). If you are mmmming and ahhh'ing about an E92 M3 then budget is not an issue I still think that something sitting in a garage is sad. Best mod for speed isn't EFR or GTX, for most people it is Driver mod. Save yourself 7K and do 7K worth of track days in the thing!

I don't have this, but I do have a turbine housing with a gate on it, which worked as well as having the gate on the manifold. If for some reason you haven't finished the build yet, send PM

Yeah, for what you are asking there is no benefit, none at all, to even consider changing the stock cam. And ABSOLUTELY NEVER removing VCT. I mean, sure if you have a 5000RPM stall converter in the car, and you rev it to the point where VCT disengages naturally there may be no benefit of VCT... but if you spend any time below the disengage point, you will get benefit from it, and if you pick up 1 or 2 tenths anywhere I can't imagine a situation you'd want it more than in a drag application

The thing is, there is no "another shop" to go to All shops act this way, that would work on these motors.

It honestly depends on how happy you are and how much time/money you have. Anything can ultimately fit and one person's easy is another person's impossibly difficult. EFR's typically run about ~3000-3200. Manifold and coating + shipping is $1750 ish. It took 8 weeks to arrive correctly. External gate costs $600+ unless you find one second hand. Fabrication work I needed would cost $2000 at Havoc. You'll need to buy a pod filter, so that's another $100. You will need to buy lines, GCG sell a kit for $400. Heat beanie on turbo? $200-400 depending on brand. Heat shielding for the "heat proof" lines kit GCG gave me? Another $300-350. Vaccum lines, hose clamps, zip ties, random shit = $100 Tows to and from workshops/fabricator/AC place/To tuner = ???? 20 hours of Labor = ????? Tune = ????? (I DIY'ed mine and got it checked to be perfect in an hour, yay me) It can get expensive, even if you do all your stuff yourself. Other stuff: Aircon line fouled, had to remove it at friends place with hoist. Do not attempt to do this because while we de-gassed the system (and had to abandon the garage, which was large... for 30 minutes, it also snap froze the welding glove being used to do it. Then when it was de-pressurized, we removed the fitting to take the line off. An explosion happened, green "Stuff" went everywhere and we both held our breath and abandoned the garage again. It ended up costing $330 to get fixed later/re-fabbed and re-gassed. We had to trim the bolt from an engine mount to fit the manifold too. VS: GTX.. buy turbo. Shit, buy one second hand! 3071's are cheaper than 3582's and EFR's. Bolt on. Reuse everything you already have. This assume your setup is good and working fine. Given you've kept it multiple years I'm going with yes. Don't need to sell the 'extras' later. If you aren't DIY'ing the swap, you will save massively on labor. Keep in mind my car is a 2.8, with a 3076 sized turbo running 17psi with a high stall converter. All of these things amplify torque and response a lot. Most people go an 8374 with a 2.6 and say its possibly too small, let alone a smaller turbo with more motor. I would sell my engine bay if someone gave me half of what it cost to do it. There is a vicious curve of diminishing returns at life above 300-320kw, and I can't honestly 'recommend' it unless you have the funds where it doesn't matter much to you, in which case I am more often saying "Buy a golf R with an APR tune" instead nowadays.

Hey man if you want you can have my entire car and/or everything in the engine bay. You know how much it costs as you know the guy who built it

Its stories like mine that generate the opinions that smart people listen to and benefit from

I have been a few times, I did 11.9 on my old setup with AD08R's and an intercooler pipe blowing off half track because of course something like that would happen to me. So it was a nice weird time of a 11.9 at 116mph with a 2.2s 60ft. I went weekend before last to test and tune with the BW EFR and MT drag radials and went slower because I had even less grip cause it turns out the tyres I bought are 10 years old because of course they are and my 60ft was 2.6. My car only makes 320kw atm If I was Toby, for simplicity's sake I would put the GTX3071 on. Simply because it bolts on. Saves time, saves money, will work 95% as well in all the scenarios that exist. The EFR can be "made" to fit, but who is making it fit? The one thing I learned fitting it is that it is NOT bolt on, even though everything "should be" things don't always line up, you have to move this, fabricate that, take 6 hours thinking "Where am I gonna run this line..." or "I dont like how this fits..." or "This is gonna get hot..." Enjoy car. Do skidz. Do track events. Don't overcomplicate things. Don't chase other's results. Someone just made 413 KW On a 7163 (!!!) on a Golf R, which will make everyone sad at the traffic light grand prix. Someone out there will buy a new Huracan. Aim for fun, and what you want first then think of the simplest way to get there. So hurr durr why didnt I just do that? Cause I had planned on changing the setup anyway, I wanted a much larger rear housing and a more flowy manifold which ruled out leaving things where they were. I had a GTX3076R on my car int he past, and it dropped/choked 150RWKW after 6k from peak power, so as I wanted less power, I needed to open up the rear end MASSIVELY and that's why I have the setup I have now. 2.8 and a flowed head is amazing for flow but it has to flow somewhere. Swapping to a GTX3076R was the same cost for me as going BW. I initially wanted to just go back to a GTX3076R with a larger rear housing, but doing it "properly" resulted in the BW being the same price once the GTX3582 was sold. Also someone please buy my GTX3582. TLDR: Do as I say, not as I did, never ever do what Greg did.

Could be worse, I had this issue due to a cracked block.... three times. But yes, coolant going into the wrong places can cause a misfire. Especially a misfire with white smoke.

I had heard rumours that the "stock" canister wasn't much good, and the borg warner "heavy duty" one was better and pretty much shipped with all turbos now. As The 7064 is "older" I guess it's got the older canister with it too, there you go, can see why they upgraded it The thing about torque converters is they can generate boost at 0 road speed, and if your RPM is derived from 0 road speed it'd be a bit misleading to show 15psi at apparently 500rpm :p. Combined with more losses in the drivetrain elsewhere you have to really only compare it to itself. I did see this on the dyno but I don't have a graph of it - Comparing a 270kw GTX3582 to a 320kw EFR 7670 with all else being the same the EFR was massively ahead everywhere, but I also have graphs to show the 3582 absolutely massacring the 7670. Point being, compare the dyno numbers to your own car if you can at any time. Ultimately the turbos don't "lie", you will get your result based on the rest of your setup. Noone is going to be unhappy with a GTX3071R gen2 or a 7163/7670 on a RB25, the question is how easy is it to fit. In Tony's case a GTX3071 will bolt directly to where his Hypergear is. Will the EFR IWG? (no idea) Either of them will make you a happy man.

I also had my tune on Friday, but because automatic with high stall the graphs as usual aren't really comparable. It made 324kw at 18psi at under 20 degrees of ignition timing running E85. The stock converter slips at about 7%, and I was told the new TC that I got at the time slips about "7% more than stock" as in you'll drop 7% of MPH after the upgrade, so your guess is as good as mine what it'd make with a manual in it. At some point I will post up the differences there too I have all the graphs, but the runs were done on 9s on the EFR and the GTX ones were 12s pulls which makes quite a big difference on how they display in terms of response when you have a torque converter at play, so they'd be misleading here.

After taking mine to the drags (I was slower than the garrett amagad) for test and tuning I found that at full noise the turbo is actually really not that loud at all - It's only loud when it's spooling up and being just under positive pressure/2-5psi. Seems your friend has the same issue, these things whistle all the time. Mine sounds like tinnitus or an old school TV when it's running, which is an interesting problem to have in the grand scheme of things. If I had a 25 I would aim for 300kw and a 7163 which would be fkin mint a setup to have. Enough power before everything stock starts to go kablam and the best way to make it.

I went to Heathcote on the weekend, with shiny new Borg Warner turbo and MT ET Streets on 16's ready to tear up the strip Was slower than before

Up you go. Would much prefer to sell this to someone who can use it as intended/use the dump pipe etc. Otherwise all the extra stuff will go into a bin and that would be a shame.