Kinkstaah

I had it on a R34, with a gtt manifold [emoji14]

The easiest way is to do a run without the filter. This is how I tested it when I was on the dyno. Prior to that, I changed injectors, fuel pump, and FPR, so you can do all of that too and then change the filter if you would prefer to burn money It took a FPR gauge on the dyno to actually determine why it was leaning out, which lead to me dropping the filter. It seems 34 specific though, I do wonder if it is the same part for the Ryco filter or whether 34's have another restriction in the system somewhere that 33's and 32's don't. Is it the same? I have honestly never looked. The other option is just make 360kw on -9's which is certainly enough for those turbos.

I don't think it's the case of the filter being clogged so much, as much as what GTSBoy said, the actual filter itself is restrictive and it can't flow that much fuel in it. I was also using a ryco filter. I now use an Earls filter, but as I've backed down my power goal I now run two filters because the Earls filter I have is 30 micron and apparently 20 is what you want (the ryco one is 20 I read somewhere). This is likely why the best option is to run them in parallel when chasing that much power. Earls have a 10 micron filter for their big filter, but I found any time I swapped between E85 and 98, in either direction, the filter would near-instantly get clogged with a 10.

I have a 34 with this pump. You are running into issues on E85 like every other 34 owner I presume. Now, everyone I've seen this issue with has a GTT, but I wouldnt be super suprised if its the same thing at play here. The fuel filter is your restriction. It always seems to happen at about 350-375kw on E85. Also, there's two types of the Walbro 460. One has a 70psi internal relief valve, the newer one has 120psi internal relief valve. This means that at certain amounts of boost the earlier one is going to pump back into the tank as opposed to into the rail. When you consider 45psi is base pressure, 70psi gives you 25psi of boost before you start to run into issues. Change the filter and the pump (if need be, do filter first) and problem will be magically solved. You can try running without the filter on the dyno to confirm.

Garrett GTX3582 + Turbosmart 45mm Gate + Dump pipe + Bolt on + Buy please GTX3582, pretty low kms (less than 10K), working fine, boosting well, no shaft play. Has a Turbosmart 45MM Hypergate welded into the housing (T3 0.82) by Scotty Fisher (www.scottyscustoms.com.au) which holds boost like nothing else. Have been able to really just choose any amount of boost and it'll just hold it, I've ran between 4PSI to and including 28psi on the same spring. Have extra springs for the Wastegate if you want to be super hardcore. Also included is the dump pipe, but you'll need a flange to fit it to your exhaust (at the cat end) as it was custom made. I do *not* have the screamer as I have re-used it for my current setup. Dump is a really nice 45deg angle pipe, fits a skyline no issues whatsoever. Suspect it'd fit most things. Seems to flow really well, made of stainless. This will bolt directly to a RB25/20/30 stock manifold and it will fit. I would recommend a spacer to be 200% sure, as I just used 3 gaskets which is quite a bit ghetto but never leaked. Comes with the second hand lines I was using if you want them. $2000. Would prefer local pickup/delivery but I can ship it at buyer's expense etc. Would prefer not to seperate as it's a good little package as is for a RB30 or RB28 or RB25 if you really are all about that lag and unsafe levels of power for a stock engine. Yes it looks a little used, because it was used and actually works entirely fine as opposed to sitting around being hard parked.

I 100% would buy them if they can be shipped. Just fyi

"Centre hole size" ? Also the idea is to buy a replacement before I take the current near-dead one off the car

If I could have my time again and wanted a 7670 I would get the internal gate one. Mainly for piping reasons. I stupidly wanted EWG because the housing was bigger and wanted everything to be less hot, and I thought I could re-use my 45mm as a single. The IWG is probably just fine for 99% of people, I don't know if there's enough results to compare same turbo, same engine, IWG vs Single Gate vs Twin gate yet Maybe if more people buy the turbos we shall see

I should add, the AC hard line fouls on the manifold. At least, it fouls on the T4 Twinscroll manifold if you fit it to a R34 GTT. Some posts have said you can "Bend it out of the way" but mine is hitting pretty solidly right on what is ordinarily a 90 degree bend up and out of the compressor. I don't have the car right now so I can't take photos of the setup. I expect a new hard line would need to be made up from scratch and put well, well, well away from the manifold itself. 50mm was in reference to single gate manifold, but again looking at where lines have to go and all of that I'm not entirely sure I'd want twin gates there either, it's all pretty tight and I'm a fair bit poorer from heatshielding heatshielding heatshielding.

Sorry, I should say this is from a perspective of a 34 owner, Dunno if others are different!

Fabrication is always going to be needed for your cooler piping and exhaust. 6boost is the closest 'off the shelf' you can get. Say goodbye to your AC though. You may get there with 400kw on a 7670. People have done more. Too close for my liking though. Single gate apparently you need at least a 50mm gate if you're going a 6boost. They will not warranty any less.

Pick up only

Which AP Racing rotor is the D2/Attkd/G4 356mm rotor a copy of? As above http://justjap.com/attkd-front-replacement-brake-rotor-set-356mm-6mm-hole.html It actually has 8mm holes, supposedly this is the same as the D2/KSport/G4 style brake rotor. Does anyone know what this is in AP land? Trying to cross/shop/compare brands/see what is out there for a replacement but the AP site has a lot of information which doesn't match. Figured someone may know when it came time to replace a D2/Ksport rotor, or did everyone buy them from D2/Ksport/JJ Directly?

From memory mine were 2-3 years old when they went on, which isn't critically messed up, but they were new, still had stickers and cling wrap and all that. Just heard stories that people would last 40,000kms on them or something similar, but it certainly doesn't appear that way for me and I DONT drive around the streets like a hoon. I reckon in that 8000kms on the rear I may have given it a squirt at most a handful of times, not breaking traction either. The only reason the fronts are sort of still semi-OK is because the inner shoulder is literally flattened out from camber wear. If I had less camber I'd wager they would be toast as well down the center. THey'd be worth the money if they lasted a bit longer, but I too was thinking about getting a 2nd set of track tyres in the future. So something that is 90% as "good" as an AD08R but lasted considerably longer would be a good street bet for me, and maybe less camber and more rotation of tyres. Only running -2deg up front mind you though. Does anything fit the bill here in 2017?

^--- keen to know how they go. I currently have AD08R's and I'm not really very happy with them. Rears were toast from new with 8000km of driving and a track day. Fronts are at 12k now and aren't looking too hot. I don't mind changing tyres more often if it turns out more economical. Was thinking RS3 but if the NS2R's do better and last a year, it'd be interesting to see. Anyone else feel like confirming if RS3's really only last half as long as an AD08R?

I preferred win 8/8.1 over the Windows 10 start menu. I hate Win10 start menu with a god damned passion, to the point where it's made me not care about the entire thing and left the start menu in a complete mangled heap and I just search for everything now. It just used to be so nice and organizable in the way you wanted it to be, now its just.. got options you can't undo, apps you can't remove, nested folders that show the way MS wants and jesus christ it irritates me.

Was going to say, didn't someone fit 375mm brakes to a 17? Depends largely on rim. LMGT4 and TE37 are good for clearance. How good though? Most people get wheels to fit brakes, not the other way around.

They overlap though, so even if there's 2x 6258's they're just walking into 8374/9180 territory. Could only imagine twins if going for truly stupid power on a 3.4L or something like that?

Is there a reason you can't just use the standard engine bay piping? I used the OEM pipes and made 420+ rwkw through an automatic gearbox.

I thought for some reason -9 or -5 were 2k or so each, I stand corrected then!

Other than stealthiness there's really no reason to buy more twins nowadays. If you buy two new twins, you could buy a single + manifold/fab to fit that for the same money. Obviously cheaper if you replace it by buying one single, but then again the real savings are in known good second hand turbos Still curious how a turbo can fail causing only a 9kw loss though? Maybe just detune the thing to 300kw and drive it around for awhile.

Buy my gtx3582 Sorry to hear about the turbo dude. How'd it actually fail anyhow? Being down 9kw isn't usually a sign of a completely failed turbo... seems to have only failed..... a bit?

My results won't be anything to write home about as the setup/goal is now super conservative. It's 7670 with T4 TS (1.05) EWG on a RB28 Neo, aiming at 300KW on 98. Will post up my impressions though, coming from a GTX3582 on the same motor, but most would expect a setup like mine to be a 8374 on E85 making 600KW but three broken blocks later I am just going wildly in the direction of overkill for safety Having recently driven a GTX3076R Twin Scroll on a SR20, I do wonder if a lot of the EFR joys is partly/mainly due to Twin Scroll joys. I would love to see a result as below on a single scroll EFR to see what the impressions were there.

Time to pull car apart and fit EFR tonight.. the nervousness is real.

I also would have said 7163 except for the fact that he wanted 220kw 7163 will get you 300, but it is still a very good unit for the RB20 that can rev out to 8K. It would generate a lot of "A rb20? This is a 20? Holy this is a great 20!" etc. ...but it'll make more than 220kw!