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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    People like Havoc fabrication can weld you on a T4 TS to stock RB manifold... to which aforementioned turbo would bolt right on to....... I only say 6758 after driving a 2L with a GTX3076R on TS which I figured would be utter laggy shit for me to realise no, no it wasn't at all. 6258 would be closer to 220kw for sure, but I have this feeling the 6758 would be responsive enough and also provide more fun happy times. These things do not like being overspun and I'd go a size up to minimize that risk and let things run lazier than being right on the edge. Note: Never owned a RB20! Results may vary! But I still would expect using a BW6758 is going to be the best answer anyway, strongly, strongly doubt you'd regret it on there, it's about as good as a RB20 is going to ever get.
  2. Kinkstaah
    Is it? If it's absolute KPA I have seen worse......:p Pretty aggressive around 0psi, mind you. But you wouldn't expect it'd be bogging down as the symptom..
  3. Kinkstaah
    The turbo is an OK car. There are many more fun P plater cars. The skyline really is a non-special commuter car with cool looking styling in NA form. It *IS* a camry, if a camry looked OK. For a fun NA P plater car? Honda Honda Honda Honda Honda. Integra R, Civic R, S2000. Honorable mention to older Renault Clios/Meganes etc. See also: MX5. NC's are cheap and swapping the diff ratio to the USA one gets you a 0-100 in 6 seconds and a lot of fun doing anything else in it. Not a bad way to spend 4 years. Way better than a N/A R34. Source: Own a turbo 34 with a lot of things done to it. The lust for something super light and revvy that you can treat like a bad bad thing around corners is real, it is genuine fun.
  4. Kinkstaah
    The truth about the EFR when I bought one, is I realised when you add a rear housing, and add a BOV that is decent, the EFR is actually as cheap/cheaper than a Garrett is. Not to mention the IWG is better still than the Garrett one is, etc etc. You even get a boost solenoid for your trouble. Fabbing can be a thing though, only the 7064 and 7670 onward fit a T3 flange natively. These are big units and 300kw++ Given how nice that GTX3076 I drove the other day was though... it would probably be prettty damn good on a RB20 which can rev higher than a SR20.. Otherwise the 6258/6758 are T25 flange, but it's nothing an adaptor wouldn't fix. 6258 is a 450hp rated turbo and 6758 is 500. I'd probably go the 6758 for more headroom but the 6258 will definitely do 220kw atw.. But honestly if the target is a usable 220kw atw, the answer is a RB25 high flow from Hypergear or contact scotty nm35 and see what he's doing with the impulse turbo over there. That will be a bolt on solution and all thinking from there on can just stop and it'll hit the target with extreme ease
  5. Kinkstaah
    Would a BW be more responsive than a TS Garrett? Still think a 62/6758 will work better. That said, yesterday drove a GTX3076R on a SR20 which was a TS setup and honestly the lag was really a non-issue, which was great for a 280KW setup let alone a 400+kw setup that this one was. Is the RB20 really worse than the SR by that amount? I have a feeling any of the modern options in a twin scroll setup is going to be suprisingly good actually!
  6. Kinkstaah
    There's never a need to question it
  7. Kinkstaah
    EFR6758
  8. Kinkstaah
    I didn't, mine is a PCS2000 controller/ECU. Probably has similar features. Though a plug and play solution would be great, though my brain is curious to know how exactly it's plugged and played into an ECU when the pins controlling the auto on a GTT are ... plugged into the Engine ECU... Mine is wired in, but the truth is that there's only ~10 or so wires that needed to actually be wired in. Also, WTS.
  9. Kinkstaah
    Knox is good for east side, they just don't like the 34 because.... I don't know? For servicing and general stuff I'm sure the'll do it just fine. Whether it will fix things is a different story. Asking for a custom transmission that holds 500rwkw different story again! I got mine done by DTM Autos out Westside, as in Geelong. Would also recommend for general auto stuff but yeah.. Geelong is not within what most people consider "acceptable travel".
  10. Kinkstaah
    There's the arugment that a car is tracked often must have been setup well/is reliable/has been looked after and used "as it should be" etc. Vs a 25 year old car with 2,000kms on it.
  11. Kinkstaah
    Will aforementioned 48mm wastegate fit where 50mm wastegates usually fit? If so, willing to separate it?
  12. Kinkstaah
    Yep, as soon as I heard T40E running 3 psi (??) on standard ECU I was about to post something similar to the above. It could be a CAS, AFM, or Ignitor issue, but if you have a standard ECU, anything other than a standard turbo is going to cause you massive grief in one way or another. I'd be putting a standard turbo or something standard sized (rb25?) and get as many things as possible close to stock as you can, and then go after troubleshooting things. With that setup there's just almost no way you could get it running well in any scenario, even if every component was setup right.
  13. Kinkstaah
    Given the posts in this thread, it seems my wear isn't that unusual, an in line with what adms15 reports really. So this is refreshing to know! It probably IS just weight transfer, as I am very new to track driving really, and losing weight over the rear end when braking is a little unnerving, but I can see how getting used it is part of the game and beneficial. Won't know until I pull the front pads off to see how much there is left there, probably nothing major to worry about. Given nearly no one (or anyone) bothers running a brake bias adjuster I am suspecting it's probably fine, but I was worried I wasn't getting the max out of the upgraded front brakes. I guess the solution long term is upgrade the rear to 356mm to match the front (or maybe 330mm as the R34 doesn't run 296/296...)
  14. Kinkstaah
    Sync... As in.. 1:1 replace rate front and rear? Or sync as in front wearing less than rear?
  15. Kinkstaah
    For me, I'm not entirely sure whether it IS the rear locking or whether it's just a feeling of abs kicking in, or hard braking in general. Looking closer, my wear looks closer to maybe less than half left on the front. Way more than the rear though! Did your rear twitchiness change when you went from a matched pad to having a softer pad at the back? I did initially have a softer rear pad... But then matched them all up later. Unfortunately my own mixed set initially was so bad it can't be used to draw a comparison.
  16. Kinkstaah
    Offensive bump. I just noticed today that my rear brakes and pads are effectively death. Braking at the track results in a very squirmy rear end to which I always figured everyone had to deal with. Front pads (356mm D2/Ksport/Attakd kit) are the same pads as the rear. Changed at the same time. They have 50% meat left on them (approximately) while the rears are toast. Considering people typically don't change the prop valve or even really report problems with this - Is something likely to have failed, or should I go out and actually get a prop vale to sort this out? The fact that Duncan up there reckons he changes his front pads 5 times for every set of the rears makes me think something is clearly incorrect here!
  17. Kinkstaah
    My housemate knows the people at Vspec performance very well. Enough so that when I go there (or Raceline for an alignment) I get the people there start saying things that only my housemates would know for the lols. The owner of it is also the guy who bought the first NSX in Australia. He collects them because he likes them. The capital comes from the same place a 25ish year old obtains Australia's first NSX comes from, i.e the same people that buy a lot of property in Australia. They get put up for sale when they get bored of having them sitting around in a collection, to make way for other things. Supposedly a Ztune is coming soon, there's two 400R's there at the moment too.
  18. Kinkstaah
    My USA plate is black and white. They're the same dimensions as the ACUTAL JDM plate, so they will fit any front bar, the way it was always intended.
  19. Kinkstaah
    USA/Jap size plates fit fine.
  20. Kinkstaah
    320 is the number where everything on a skyline starts to die (if you go over it) I.e a) Too much lag b) Gearboxes die c) Clutches start becoming expensive/hard to drive d) Grip is a problem, no tyres exist to keep your foot on the ground in RWD As mentioned it's not "too much" as long as you confirm the rest of the setup being healthy, or whether it all looks sketchy as f**k. If it's a known car, decent human, people can confirm its status, seems to behave, pass tests, yeah it's not too much. Keep in mind though, and perhaps even keep some money aside for 'another' engine, because 'safe' does not mean 'safe indefinitely'. There have been reported failures on good setups well under 300KW as well.
  21. Kinkstaah
    It's to make sure it's under high boost under all conditions all of the time. Certain conditions from Nissan are very conservative for a person who wants more power at the cost of a paperclip
  22. Kinkstaah
    Any interest in parting out just the bodykit? If not, can you PM me where it came from? I have fantasies of fitting the wider fenders 'one day'.
  23. Kinkstaah
    I swapped these personally (went from Xenons to normals because normals are better than hacked up Xenons) and they are exactly the same shape though there is a little bit of wiring to do as the plug is different. Physically though, the outer dimensions are the same.
  24. Kinkstaah
    I think it'd depend a lot on the examples in question. I would rather have known demons than unknown ones, like say, rebuilding a M3 V8?
  25. Kinkstaah
    But.... but... Is it normal on R33's that one wheel is in-front of the other, and can have much less Castor before it starts hitting things? Pretty this is what OP is trying to explain here
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