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Kinkstaah

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Everything posted by Kinkstaah

  1. Kinkstaah
    I have heard that this has mostly been moved onto the RWC/Defect under the title of "confirm all emissions equipment is OK" or thereabouts. Definitely been a known downturn in getting EPA'ed, but it could simply be a R Series skyline is now becoming more of an old retro classic now, it is not what hoon kids are using, it may be aging out of the hooniverse in the eyes of captain plod. Compared to rocket bunny 86's and golf R's and the like. Pure conjecture though!
  2. Kinkstaah
    I also had a hypergear turbo prior to that, but in any case it's going to be oil dumped into the intake. It may simply be that your comp cover isn't as sealed as it should be and it's coming out there instead of later on in the piping. I'd still pull off some of the piping (didn't you do this recently? Was there any oil in that piping?) Thing about cheap catch cans is they don't actually catch anything. But yes I had all that oil and nothing in the comp cover, which makes me think the issue is kind of in the comp cover, because all that oil had to be going through the compressor and, well, it certainly did not leak. Oil catch cans are still useful as a diagnostic anyway, or can be. But it needs mesh, needs filter, and needs baffling which nearly none of the items have, they're all almost empty cans from when I did research recently on the subject.
  3. Kinkstaah
    I bought a Mishimoto. It does not have 2L Capacity though, but after a beating with the oil mods I don't need 2L Capacity so thats nice! However it DOES have a filter, and DOES fit near the R34 battery and DOES have baffling and DOES cost nearly $400 oh shit. If you're getting oil *there* then I would be checking your intake pipes. I had oil all over my intake pipes, it was literally pooling in the crossover pipe. Not once did I have a drop where the picture is.
  4. Kinkstaah
    If you read the roadworthiness requirements its pretty funny at times where shops will pick on things that are entirely not within the documentation at all, and like you've seen there's a wild amount of variance going around. I plan on printing the damn thing next time I need a RWC
  5. Kinkstaah
    Thats kind of the point where you start posting on Whirlpool and the problem becomes miraculously fixed
  6. Kinkstaah
    For what it's worth I am considering the a very similar setup, but I was planning on going the TS T4 option on a 6boost. If I had a RB25 I would consider it on the stock manifold like you are, but I may even consider going 7163 if you're happy to stop at 300KW which is going to be very very lively on a street tyre. There's a couple of results from a 1J making 320kw without maxing it out, which is also a 2.5. If you want more than that though the 7670 is what I'd be choosing as well. If I was using the stock manifold I wouldn't be going an adapter plate because... well, it's just one more thing that can go wrong. If you think of the 7670 like a GTX3076R, the .83 rear seems like it's a pretty suitable size, I don't think you'd gain much/anything at all going to a T4 .92 adaptor plate on a stock mani.
  7. Kinkstaah
    I have a GTX3582... and if it is what it is and it should be sold for something else if you have RB25. You could use one on a stock RB26, but you really need the extra 1000RPM up top to make it work. If it fell into your hands for $0 then sure, but if you were buying one I'd be telling someone to buy pretty much anything else for an unopened RB25 these days.
  8. Kinkstaah
    I'd choose a shonky idle over breaking down and popping and doing weird things under load myself. Does the car idle better if you raise the rpm?
  9. Kinkstaah
    I have the same issue, but our domain does not end in .com or .net or .com.au and oh man, the confusions.
  10. Kinkstaah
    +1 re: Haltech boost control (and Johnny's settings). Really does work pretty damn well, unless you do weird shit like have an auto with a gate after the turbine wheel and load it up a hill. But that isn't Haltech's fault and it works really damn well, though I would wager most modern ECU's will. To be fair, I'd also say a standalone EBC can be setup to work just as well when you think about it, you shouldn't need to swap ECU's merely for the sake of boost control unless you want fancy things like Boost by gear, or Boost by XYZ variable that the EBC cannot provide.
  11. Kinkstaah
    I had spitballed about this (as I have built the auto to take the power, which... was more expensive than a gearset) as I wanted to go manual and was thinking about a conversion to a 370Z gearbox (CD009). Supposedly a fair bit stronger and 'doable' Finding information on it is difficult though. I know a company named Eleven-Ten engineering in SA have completed it though. Unless you want to go auto
  12. Kinkstaah
    Don't do any of this. If you have a RB26, sell the RB26 and go buy a RB25DET Neo And if you have a RB25DET Neo, sell that, and the GT, and buy the GTT. Source: Had GT with Turbo engine, now have GTT. No amount of modifications done to the GT is harder to move to the GTT than transplanting the engine.
  13. Kinkstaah
    I can, and do. See also: Comfortable heterosexual man enjoying driving MX5 with no power. Cars as status symbols? Embarrassing no matter how you explain it away.
  14. Kinkstaah
    Driving a less enjoyable toy car because worried about what anonymous people may think instead of being comfortable and saying "I enjoy driving enjoyable cars" k
  15. Kinkstaah
    Actually the MX5 engines (at least the 1.8) is known to hold a good 200rwkw, there's plenty of people out there with a turbo, some guy has gone full John Richardson at 191 rwkw and has done something like 60 track days on it. Seems about 180rwkw in a MX5 is similar to the "300 is safe" kw in a RB25. And then you go to a corner or brake and instantly lose 400KG of weight. But no, the S13 with a modest power setup and sorted handling is a very good option as well. You only really get problems in any car if you decide HOLY SHIT POWAAAAAAR or decide you want slicks and then you get oil control fun. I mean shit the S13 gets blame for being a bad chassis, but someone won WTAC with one. Not a very stock one albeit, but it can't be that bad for fun and games!
  16. Kinkstaah
    I just never take off the end that was stretchy, but I have two hose clamps on the 'looser' end. The crossover pipe does come off all the time, but not a big issue as you only ever really need to remove one of the ends of the pipe. I kept my stock one just in case, as I was replacing all of the joiners in one hit, due to them, well, starting to die and figured the other currently working ones would not last forever.
  17. Kinkstaah
    Have to admit did seem a little odd when you're talking about buying a new M5 yet a sensor or paying for a dump pipe is a hassle. In any case if you want stress free motoring and you have access to a M anything, well, just get in, turn the key and have fun.
  18. Kinkstaah
    After a few days you get used to the smell in Rotorua though (really) Fkin weird when going there first time though.
  19. Kinkstaah
    I've had that setup on a RB28. Yes it can make 400 at that boost. Just leave it as it is, man. It won't really make the car any faster in 97.7% of scenarios. Why tempt fate? I'd go as far to say as leave it on 19psi with a stock gasket. Twin scroll housings and manifold should make it a pretty potent setup. Source: Tempted fate.
  20. Kinkstaah
    I still have my stock one.... Kudos do have the correct joiner as that is who I called about it... the 2.5 will work, but yeah it was offensively difficult at the time. I never tried with a reducer (didnt get that far?) as none of them were of a size that I needed, I couldn't find a 70 to 60, as everything was imperial and was a few mm off either end in presumably every way. Mind you I didn't try a joiner, we just had a 2.75 and a 2.5 handy, and one would work on one side, and one wouldn't work on the other side etc. We just found the downside of joiners that resist a lot of initial pressure really really don't like stretching!
  21. Kinkstaah
    Its almost like cars and car communities are actually about people, and connecting, and all of that, and have very little to do with the piece of machinery
  22. Kinkstaah
    THE VERY FIRST SECOND I COME BACK FOR THE YEAR I MUST PRINT HOLY SHIT DONT YOU REALISE HOW MUCH I NEED TO PRINT I NEED TO BE PRINTING THINGS ALL THE TIME TO LIVE
  23. Kinkstaah
    Back to work AAGGGHHHH f**kin people like to report IT problems the second they come back holy shit.
  24. Kinkstaah
    Hahahahahahhahaha. I only laugh because holy shit that one was a nightmare to fit on. Making one stretch over it was pretty damn hard if you use a decent joiner. I distinctly recall Scottynm35 and myself trying for quite some time with Lubricant and a heat gun and swearing to never, ever, ever, ever remove it for any reason. It'll need to be the 2.5 though, because the 2.75 won't seal on the smaller of the two in any way that will leave you thinking "this is an optimal solution" I said to myself that buying another OEM joiner is the way to go. Think from memory they were/are about ~$50. Figured if it lasted 20 years it can last 20 more.
  25. Kinkstaah
    I used to have a pretty blowy motor, then I read this thread and hory shet the difference was extreme. What I had previously (even with the stock 1.2mm restrictors in the 34) was in the photo. Would get this kind of stuff after any real kind of RPM's happening. Blocked one of the feeds, and had the drains enlarged as the head was off at the time. Prolonged revving later (as in.. probably hours of it) and maybe 20ml in the catch can. Enough that it wasn't so much oil as Oil + water vapour, greeny sludge at best. (I got a fitting for my sump but looking at whats IN the catch can... wouldn't want that going back down there) In any case, just sharing my experiences with this thread and the help it provided!
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