Kinkstaah

Yeah marvelling and contemplating have entirely different meanings.... In any case, yeah, OP6 is the better housing to use if you ever really want to lean on the thing. Not often that people have both to choose from, and typically not really worth "upgrading" to if you already have a hiflow with the 21U housing. That said, the Turbo is pretty much the most important part of the car for performance, so unless for some reason you must have stock turbine housings, or are aiming for 220kw don't use one.

I stupidly suggested to my gf that a MX5 would be a perfect car for her to get a head start in, learn on, use, etc. Now I want one, with a small turbo albeit. LS Swapped FD would be great, but if you want a ~1250-1350kg car with an easy to use 250-270kw then you start looking into options like, oh I dunno, a RX7.. or a jap turbo import made by Nissan... I have this discussion with my housemate who got an E36 328i with plans to put a LS1 in.

Blueprinted RB28 Neo I don't expect to sell this, especially not quickly, but here we go, it's up for sale, and I await burny flames, because "Greg Car™" What I have is a fully blueprinted, literally built yesterday RB28/29 RB25DET Neo with juicy VCT, unlike you dirty RB26 people. It's also in a car, running, and available for any test you would like to do. In fact, I'd encourage it. The blueprints are obviously included with the same and to have a look at beforehand and all that. The pertinent info: Compression is 9.01:1 It has a Brian Crower stroker kit from the USA in it (http://www.briancrower.com/view.php?pn=BC0238) 86.5mm pistons that were custom made by JE and Nitto to fit the Neo head (the kit was for RB25DET and RB26) I say JE and Nitto as they are actually badged with both brand names. JUN Oil pump Lewis Engines baffled/gated and extended sump. R34 has 1.27mm restrictor in it standard, one feed has been blocked off. The oil returns in the head and the block have been enlarged. ARP2000 Head Studs ARP Main Studs ACL Race Bearings Tomei Metal HG, 1.2mm. Tomei Type B 260deg Cams Tomei Exhaust Cam Gear which does nothing but is installed.. Supertech Valve Springs The head was ported and polished and unlike most ports and polish actually helped performance a pretty big amount. And by "helped performance" I mean along the lines of the same power at about 10psi less boost. Being built yesterday, it has a full OEM Nissan Gasket set for everything minus the HG, and new belts. If it's so amazing, why do I want to sell it? I only aim to make 300kw going forward. A stock engine would be better for me. I'd love 12k for it, and I'm sure you'll offer lower, the price may sound insane but keep in mind.. a) The BC kit alone costs $6000USD before shipping. b) It's a legally registerable engine for those who are worried about RB30's engine numbers in engine bays. c) It's already built, so no waiting for you d) It's already running, come test it, drive the car, be sure about it without those post build worries and niggles that do appear at times. So if this is something you wanted to build, well there's no way it's going to happen cheaper, faster and simpler than just taking this one out. I could include photos of the build if really needed, but it looks like an assembled engine, unlike most, I went out of my way to not make it look interesting. No flashy rocker cover paint here. Come drive the thing, test the thing, etc instead! If interested, send a PM! Negotiations, swaps, etc all welcome.

Especially in a country like Australia, where we're pretty damn vehemently opposed to anyone we consider to be a tall poppy. Most people care literally less than nothing about the people in that industry.

My car never actually drove badly in any state of the tune, which is why I post about it, because it can take you by surprise and break in unexpected ways with no warning. you may not have turned it up to 375kw if you could have, but it is becoming easier and easier for people out there to buy 'new' stuff where the difference between 252 being knock limited and 375kw driving perfectly fine on the same hardware is the difference between using united or not. My plan is actually to do pretty much what you've said though. I want a T4 EFR7163 or 7670 for better manifold and heat flow and all of those good things to aim for more reliableness and eliminate more problem factors. Pretty much the goal is have a setup that some forum junkie would say MATE GOOD FOR 600KW then go and make 300kw on it. Its also worth noting that my 98 tune which made 320kw through the auto (way less boost, way less timing) had literal 0 problems with WOT grip in any gear, but the auto may have had something to do with it, but that said the auto resulted in more torque earlier so who knows. It may not be directly comparable.

You *can* My point was what if you said "We added timing and I made 375rwkw". The fuel will allow this but most likely something else would have stopped you, run out of injectors, fuel pump, AFM maxes out, fear of blowing gearbox, clutch slip, etc. Its far easier nowadays to have none of the above stop you, and you can go right ahead and make 252kw on 98 due to pinging, and make 375RWKW on E85 because of the fuel, but 'something else' will be the thing that stops you and it won't be pretty.

This is actually the plan and what I have recommended to many people in the many years I've had problems actually. I would wager the difference in the tune you (and Hamish) had on 98 and E85 wasn't too major (i.e it probably was not running 12 degrees more timing and 10psi more boost) because the E85 can take it but something else, unknown to you yet can't. Like say, the block in my case, or cylinder pressure, or heat, or all of the above. I feel if you picked up 80rwkw and 120kw in your top end from just running E85 then more people would run into problems, especially when it looks perfect on a dyno, etc. It may be a bigger issue for people in the future as there's turbos out there in the wild that can handle high pressure (GTX) and big injectors and fuel pumps are easily available. They weren't in the past, there was always some restriction (Z32, PFC, 555's, 040, Highflow) looks different to (MAP, Haltech, 2000's, Walbro 416, GTX) But like you said, and even I've said that about 320kw is where you want to stay in a RWD Skyline, mainly because after that: 1) Engine rebuild become more likely 2) Grip starts becoming an issue for any kind of road tyre 3) Gearboxes start exploding 4) Clutches and such start becoming scarce, hard to drive, find, etc I don't think I've really been overly unlucky, I've just done things based on info here, and what should "be fine"... and freely share the info so hopefully others can not have sadness with their own car adventures

I'd argue that there's little point for E85 on a RB other than making a 98 tune safer through less pinging. I guess I've learned for everyone that no matter what you can throw nearly anything at the cylinder and it will take it like a champ, until the next weakest part is the block crying for mercy over cylinder pressure+heat+mixture of both, or something like that. Note: Turbo has gate on housing, not on the manifold. But yeah, safe to say it's planning on being dialled back a significant amount, and any unique "Greg things" are pretty much going in the bin in favour of tried and true solutions. Always was looking out for the common problem just would be nice if it wasn't the block cracking. Guess that's what happens if everything else has been somewhat sorted. +1 for the whole "Get an EGT gauge" crowd I suppose.

Also when researching timing and E85, I found a post where someone stated "This thread explains why I killed my engine" The post was from me, in 2015. Clearly I did not remember this. I want to get off E85's wild ride.

I'd like to stop cracking RB blocks. Seems there is a limit after all. What 'works' is not the same as what works it looks like in the end. I want to get off E85's wild ride

I also put one of these on my RB28. (rb25neo) As above, super good easy to deal with, no fuss, no dramas, and pretty quick work. Is it as good as the other options out there? I couldn't tell you, I don't know a great deal about sumps and their design, which is why I got one made... but I didn't need EXTREME++++++ I just needed a slightly more robust setup as I have a JUN pump and want to go round corners. As far as I'm concerned, attitude means a lot. The fact they have the attitude that they want to help people with their project and freely share information means I'll be a customer there far far more frequently than other people in the business of making things for RBs.

There are obviously some scenarios (like above) where combination of being super tall and super upright will cause an issue. One probably fixed with a custom seat. There's just a LOT of people out there who are... 6ft or thereabouts saying "THERES JUST NO WAY I CAN FIT IN, ITS LITERALLY IMPOSSIBLE TO DO!!!!!" which isn't really true, one should probably try and sit in one of them first. I don't consider myself tall, but I get a ton of people who are literally amazed I can fit in one, results in me scratching my head a lot!

They look way, way, way, way better in person than they do in photos too. And of course sound nuts with a decent exhaust. Just add a bit of boost and job done. Maybe coils blablabla. As for ftting, seriously never understood that. I am 187cm, and I fit perfectly fine in a NB which is supposedly the worst to fit in. Can only attribute it to people not knowing how to adjust a seat or I have abnormally long legs. My 198cm friend fits in the same MX5 as well. Just have to lean the sit back a bit and boom, feels more sporty to boot.

I know a guy who has a 2.8 kit that will fit a 26.... known to be a very durable setup, considerably more durable than a block... or two... or three...

Anyone know anyone who's got a RB25/Neo block laying around? As I am now onto my 4th and sleeves don't seem to readily exist because "What exactly would you sleeve it with that's stronger?" (yes I shall turn down the powers)

A lot of those parts are very similar to my car Tony, I hope it serves you better

Going by the photos, it looks like it fits nicer than my GTX3582 (the borg warner is smaller, in those photos), so it can be used with engine bay piping without any major concern I'd wager, as my GTX does/did.

Given what I have just done to mine....don't go over 400KW with it...... damage report incoming.

I currently have a GTX3582 low mounted on the standard manifold, so if the B1 frame is smaller it should be fine. Depends a bit on how thick the spacer is, but generally people space out a GT3582 in any case. High mounting the thing on a RB25 whilst wanting to use a return flow intercooler, and the standard intake plenum starts making it look like fabrication hell, whereas keeping it low mount.... doesn't.... at all. The question really comes around sealing that adapter and whether you're negating all the benefits of Borg Warner by doing so. But from most reports it appears the tech is mostly in the turbo and turbo wheels/turbo wheel material and not so much the manifold it's connected to.

I have visions of a standard engine and a T4 7163. My query would be wether as mentioned before it's worth going a full high mount twin scroll manifold ala 6boost or Fullrace (or sinco, or hypertune..) or whether the adaptor/welding up stock manifold is a 'better' idea for 'sort of' Twin Scroll and low mounting it. Is it worth fathoming a guess as to what the performance impact of that would be?

As above ---^ assuming that was with the ARP2000's and Some kind of MLS head gasket? Or did you go OEM?

When I called them recently..ish (with the problem specified) they no longer do this. Infact mike himself said he "had no interest in ever doing it again" and the one he did do in 2008 or something was a one-off.. though apparently the answer is a VL flex plate with a RB25 ring gear and that will do the job, or something similar to that. I don't know the lingo or what really comprises of it as my desire was "yes I'd like there to be 100% less cracks in it"

The problems I found was that there's also no off the shelf option for a flex plate behind a R34. You will snap yours and the stock design is fkin awful. Here's a photo of mine: I've gone full retard with my setup as described before, standalone ECU (for shift maps, you can make shifts nice down low... and harsh up top), have dual maps for when the car is in "D" and when it is in manual mode, etc. Upgraded TC which is the last thing you want, because it has to match everything else. Twin coolers, fans controlled in the cabin etc, gauge for temp. There's quite a lot of things that you need to do... all essentially to match the performance of the manual box which comes with most of these cars for $0. Sure, it does bring a turbo on much faster and you can stall it up, great for drag, but on ANY road tyre it = smoke extreme, making some beg the question of how useful it all really is given that application. That said, on the track it was pretty nice to just twitch a thumb and shift up/down coming out/into corners. I also had it remarked on me that a car behind me running the same power really noticed the benefit of the auto box, because of the WIIIIIDE powerband up top vs the time lost by shifting manually, revving back up to peak power even though both cars were running ~320kw at the time. My dyno sheet looks like this now: The guys who built mine (DTM autos in Geelong) mentioned that the NA box that I got built up from MV Autos, supposedly the 1a box, with solenoids was a completely different beast internally to the 1b box. They pretty much spat all over the 1a box which had been reduced to bits of gunk that was clogging its own filter... at about 250kw, after being built. The one above has been taking abuse for years and years (and a LOT of abuse) and for all the things I've broken, it hasn't been the box, as much as I am OFTEN told how horrible an automatic gearbox is by everyone around me.

I posted in your other thread re: Developments (same box!) since I posted in this thread in 2014.

I have one, sort of, at least mine has held up behind 415rwkw here ( It's the R34 GTT box and the long and the short of it is you should just buy my setup and go enjoy it because I want to go manual. It probably cost close to 10K to get built, all things considered (custom valve body, aftermarket shifting ECU, wiring, tuning, Custom Torque converter, custom flex plate etc). Was done by the guys at DTM Auto in Geelong, Victoria. If you absolutely want to start from scratch, the Patrol auto box is the strongest, though I wouldn't be surprised if the RE401B (the GTT box) has some elements of that in its design, it may not but it's certainly held up for me over time after melting a MV shift kit initially.