Kinkstaah

Because it may be relevant, you are using a standard manifold are you Tony?

It was, because back then I had a GTX3076R then with a .82 rear, I took the recommendation and went with a much larger rear to open the whole thing up. Also opened up the intake which would have been contributing to that problem (and picked up 45rwkw lol). But it's possible that the damage had been done, but seeing an engine roll over up top, or an exhaust housing go slightly red doesn't usually result in a blown head gasket. I have never actually run the GTX3076R for longer than about an hour before I changed to a free flowing rear. And since then the head was lifting under boost (wrong head studs supplied way back then, and re-used by current builder because "ARP studs are reusable". This was discovered when I bought a new gasket and studs because I didn't trust the internet when they said you can re-use metal head gaskets and ARP studs. And what do you know, the old ones were about 25mm bigger. Then the block cracked literally 2 days after that was assembled, full rebuild since then, with all the recommendations made, followed. I directly followed recommendations of people around me... because when you have problems you start looking at people who do not have problems to see where the differences lie... As to what failed this time, no one is sure yet, other than it's exhaust gases in the coolant.

I have, every time which is why they were so confused when it arrived back on their doorstep yesterday.. Eliminating things that are "custom" is now my primary goal here. I wonder if things like Scotty's turbo housing/gate/manifold setup causes heat/backpressure/something (maybe it does at 400rwkw at 4000rpm....) Perhaps the traction control system doesn't work as cleanly as advertised.. Perhaps the metal head gasket didn't seal despite the block and head being super straight and super polished by the machine shop that did it (that also built the engine) Perhaps the 'custom pistons' that were ordered and sized up for the kit way way back when by someone who was grossly incompetent is causing these fun and games too.. But power was turned down to about 320kw. Given I was pretty happy with that, a standard Neo will be finding its way to that engine bay because I'm really not a fan of "perhaps" (even if something becomes immediately clear as the problem, like last time).

I think more like stock motor and never ever open the motor in any case at all. And some responsive Borg Warner thing on the side of it. Or who knows, maybe just put an OEM gasket back on what's currently there, unless the block is cracked or there's a portal to the underworld when they remove the head which is entirely likely.

My engine let go again. Congealed exhaust gas in coolant looks like poo. It's noticeably different from coolant and oil mixing, which I have also seen within the last 10,000kms.

The oil in there currently is Total 90w-140 apparently. If I ever change it and it makes a notable difference I'll update the thread. I hadn't even heard the brand before it made its way into the diff, but I agree that some oils seem to get "Brand power" from seemingly nowhere.

I did wonder if it was maybe over-filled, in the 34 (sedan at least?) the breather is directly connected to the inside of the chassis rail, so it's clearly 'supposed' to vent there. I'm happy to just keep cleaning it but thought it best to confirm. After sandown there was maybe a drip or two but nothing compared to what there initially was. So I am assuming it may have been initially over-filled an has now become... less over filled.. Is it worth changing the oil to something 'known' like the OS Giken or Nismo oil? If this is fairly typical then all good, it didn't affect anything under there functionally so I'm not so bothered if it's not going to cause something to go bang

Diff Breathing a ...lot of oil Hi Folks. Recently got a 1.5 Nismo diff (non pro). Seems to be breathing quite a lot of oil. Couldn't really find any information on whether this is normal or not. Haven't had it a long time so turning to the SAU brains trust to see if anyone's seen something similar here. Haven't beaten SUPER hard on the diff. Little bit of hill driving, little bit of track day, (but the picture was before the track day). Car is used as a daily. I believe the oil is "Total" and it's an 80-90W oil that was put in when the diff was put in. Is this getting too hot and causing it to essentially breathe everywhere? Worth changing to an 80-250w or 80-140 LSD oil like the Nismo one? Note: Diff IS in an auto, so you get a lot of torque down low with not a lot of speed thanks to stall converter. Unsure if that changes things, prematurely heats things, or anything. Any alternate solutions? The oil was bad enough for a suspension place to think it was a leaking shock when it was actually diff oil over everything.

With reviews and prices like that, time to hunt for some track day rims..

First VIP car I've seen that looks like actual VIP car.

speak for yourself

Yeah the thing is my lovely better half is eventually going to respray the car so scratches not really that concerned right now. Would take to shopping centre, Was curious if any are known as being better or worse than others. Maybe someone knew, etc. I currently DIY it and I do a decent enough job for myself but I always figure paying someone would get a better result, every now and then. Given my effort is a few wipes over the plastic to remove dust and occasionally wash the mats and a little 12v vaccuum I own, I don't have massively high expectations, I only washed the mats because I managed to break a take away curry all over the mat... and washed it after about 10 days later, so that'll give you some idea of the quality of job I am looking for

Dumb question, is there any good BUDGET detailers? Somewhere where you can just go on a very low notice and get a reasonable to OK job of interior detailing because majorly CBF and car looks pretty shit 95% of the time anyway? By "good enough" I mean good enough to think "oh yep, that's cleaner now" but with 0 desire to actually take a photo of it.

They can be usually pushed pretty far for a "Stock" (ish) part. They're similar to the stock ceramic turbos but they're made of steel, so, yay. People can get 300kw from them or thereabouts if wound up. They're useful to max out the rest of the stock GTR equipment, be it fuel pumps, injectors, etc on 98 fuel. As for the boost pressure required do that I'm not entirely sure

brb reversing my car into something really hard

I shall go out and make less power and more lag, that should make the setup less crap

I have a 180kmh speedo However I could easily determine this from the logs on my amazing Haltech ECU to determine what the speed actually was, as it'd auto log such information for later viewing.

Yep, but your power came in way later. I have 4KG rears with helper springs, a Nismo 1.5way diff, running -1deg camber and AD08R's which were up to temp and running 30psi hot. Not saying it's the best setup in the world, but it's not like it's a slammed 15KG rear springed 2 way on stretched 195 nankangs that cost $4 each

Kind of what I was referring to before.. it depends on your definition of "traction" One man's "linear" is another man's "laggy" etc. I don't think it's realistic to expect to go WOT and have 0% traction loss when you make peak power at 4000rpm, I too turned down the boost as much as possible so I was running about ~300 and had to really feed it in. I would have loved to literally go 100% throttle as soon as exiting the last corner onto the straight and hold that all the way to turn 1 but that isn't happening. At least for me. If there is something to fix I'd love to know about it! Funnily enough, I seem to have to feed it in a lot less on the road which is also what I noticed when I went to Heathcote.

Yes? Everyone's idea of what 'traction' is varies though, and varies a lot on what they're trying to do really. I was referring to my own setup, not a 1000HP drag car on drag slicks with a solid rear axle on the drag strip.

Anyone else out there with a pair perhaps?

Watching some handheld video of my car at sandown (which is painful to watch) I noticed some oily looking smoke down the left side of the car.. where my catch can... wasn't... really catching anything. Funnily enough, the left rear was the culprit all day.... and this was after turning the boost down to about ~300rwkw, after almost faceplanting the LEFT barrier on the back straight getting onto the fun pedal with the wheels facing straight... hmmm.. Potential self-oil slicking my own tyres aside, WOT under 100 kmh isn't really possible in my car though. This is more of a "too much everything for 2WD" as opposed to anything else. I wasn't able to even go WOT comfortably until the start line at Sandown from the last corner, which I doubt most people have to deal with when they are making 300kw, so that lends a bit of suspicion on just what that oily looking smoke was doing down the left side of the car.

FWIW I found no real huge difference in NT05 and AD08R in terms of grip for the street. Housemate with RS3 and AD08R noticed no mega difference, maybe the AD08R lives a bit longer due to the higher cost so you aren't swapping as much. No back to back laptime data etc though, all by that seat feel.

It is, but past experience in my case has shown that something built is an even bigger gamble!

I had turned the boost down so I was running a fair bit less than 415, more like ~320ish but the delivery is still much the same and first time ever out on the track in the thing, I almost put it into a wall on the back straight coming on power too, so that was why I went home to get the laptop to turn that boost down before death. Obviously a stall converter not the easiest thing to feather but it's 'doable' with some restraint. It did feel rolly and sloppy as all hell, but maybe that's what everyone is dealing with and I should just learn to drive Sure was fun though.