Kinkstaah

I was thinking the same, how can you deliver a hit like that and drive off? I want to be in that car in an accident, lol

The worry is that the overheat initially can cause the head to warp as well. It would be worth mentioning that that had occurred to anyone you take the car to to ensure they check it because as mentioned, you don't want to replace head gasket then find out the problem is still there.

I found the AD08R to be absolute garbage in that last turn trying to get any power down (lowered the boost as much as possible and had big issues) That said, can confirm am noob driver. My suspension is possibly f**ked though, but 5kg front and 4kg springs at near stock ride height is pretty fkin boaty and non track optimal, like everything that I haven't near immediately changed after actually trying to use it. Birds, turns out that "Catch can" was actually pretty much venting to the engine bay as that's where it was disconnected (back to the intake, at the intake) and just pissing oil everywhere. Bought a replacement with actual baffling that will actually be setup actually correctly to actually catch oil (or at least put it it back into the intake and not into the engine bay), and actually get some actual tyres for the next time. (i.e, Nankang AR-1) Or just cheat and get a GTR for those slow corner exits Also that chaser was parked literally next to me. Was a nice guy!

Nope, I actually asked them to do a checkup and they did. They found faults in their eyes, and reported them to me in great detail which I am appreciative for and I shall get a 2nd opinion on. Because some of the things mentioned are so severe that they necessitate a 2nd opinion. They have found things I've never noticed/didn't know where there and things like "your two rear bearings are utterly f**ked" seems like it would show up when you shake the entire car by the wheel and notice no movement. I'm well aware that they may not have had time/resources to take on such a job and that's fair enough when you're working in an industry like that. It isn't somewhat shit of them, it is just somewhat shit in life to go for something simple and find out a lot else is on the plate that you didn't know about and now you do. I asked them for a check and I got a check. What I did not do was ask for a check then demand they fix it all in the time allotted for a check, dude. I'm not that kind of customer, or human being really.

Nope, I never had that problem, was juat bubbling for me but I never abused it on the track. Was just sprited driving in the hills for me that did it

I had that problem (lets not be scary) but there were no combustion gases in the coolant because E85. (nto enough to register) The head WAS lifting under boost and ended up being wrong head studs was the culprit, and a blasted bottom end and all sorts of nightmare scenarios. If I drove casually, would never bubble. If I gave it a hammering it would bubble in overflow. If the problem is linked to boost then it could very well be that. I'd wager you would find out pretty quick on Saturday in either scenario..

Just read the website. It makes sense and I should have read the website and utilize their business. Thank you for your informative post. I am appropriately admonished for not reading.

I'm yet to go to Sandown in the dry with HICAS still enabled with busted rear wheel bearings and HICAS tie rod ends apparently. So it should be any day now.

I was happy to go there, but I'm really looking for a place that will repair/replace suspension geometry as opposed to just fixing the issue by selling coilovers. Seems like the actual springs and struts are the least of my worries now. That said I always thought the tail being a bit slidey was due to this torque spike as per here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_2016_09/57eb13251b249_DynoGTX3582RPower.thumb.jpg.3d244a1923896738611d6b0dd20f2308.jpg.pagespeed.ce.mloANxsVLK.jpg

Can anyone actually recommend a suspension place that won't go "Oh it's a sedan, I see your money and your questions are beneath me and please stop lowering the property value of my amazing shop"? as this happens quite a lot

To be fair if I do go the whole hog and replace shocks and springs I would consider Shockworks or MCA really as the only two options to choose from. I may get away with a new set of coils, hicas lock bars and toe arms to suit, and two rear wheel bearings. Still somewhat shit when my initial complaint to get checked out was "hm, the front seems to be pretty happy to hit bump stops and isn't low"..

I thought about this but I was under the impression the setup I had was great. Certainly felt fine, though wanted to see what the Shockworks R34 felt like. I suspected nothing was even wrong with the rear end actually. Just thought the front was hitting the stops a bit too eagerly and was a little low. But nope, apparently the rear is so bad it'd be 'suicidal' to drive it. I'd really rather not pay $5k to get it into an approved setup lol.

Took car to suspension place, for front suspension being abit crashy. Advise is to replace entire coilover system, entire rear subframe, both rear wheel bearings and lockout bars galore - None of which they are willing to take on for any amount of money. Good times.

Updated my result from awhile back with: 1x 3in to 3.5in exhaust, with gate plumbed back now as opposing to going to Atmo, through two mufflers. Walbro 460 pump, with the 120psi relief valve over the 70psi one. Fuel tank lid actually sealed now too. Different stall converter to fit the situation, which results in more slip. Added a fair amount of restrictions to the system but got a better result because of other messing around. To avoid killing the dyno this pull was WOT at 3000 RPM as opposed to stalling the converter up. So it's actually more responsive than this shows, but the dyno didn't like it. Still have a Blitz return FMIC, so that really isn't a restriction people. 413rwkw at.. 24-25ish psi, with about 10% slip in the converter up top. Couldn't go higher due to Splitfires starting to really call it a day at that power level, which would be higher if it had a clutch, so for anyone reading you can probably do 460kw with ~25psi of boost before they start to miss, at least in my application. It's pretty torquey. GTX3582R on standard manifold, Picture of engine bay attached for dat boringness.

I quite like the D1R's on that falcon. Better than the BBS LM. Not even kidding. I expect Birds to like this post.

A haltech will solve the issue, a Nistune will solve the issue, even a PowerFC will solve the issue for less features. What you need is an ECU so you know wtf your car is actually doing

If these work well, wtb

For what its worth I have 18x9.5 +27 at the front of mine and it needed roll and a lip to fit with 265's and it looks great, now, barely fitting. I don't know what a R32 fits relative to a R34 (which is what I have) but I know that what I have is about as much as you can possibly ever fking get at the front of a stock guarded R34. As soon as I read +20 I was like NOPE, and then 265 tyre NOPE x2 and then R32 NOPE x3 If you can find the differential between the two cars (or have a look at what others fit) it's good. Measure measure measure and the website will be 100% right, as it's the method I used to get the maximum tyre up front that I could.

I want to say "is that legal?" but it appears that it is. Seems like a fine you'd be wanting to contest if it happened to you..

I hear you on that one

Not sure that constitutes 'better'...

I actually drive very much like a grandpa, so much so that it typically infuriates any passengers I have in the car.

I can confirm there's no way of making it better given my setup. I know this due to the AFRs that the car runs that I have easy access to, on an O2 sensor that I know is accurate.

What made you think anything is wrong?

I had the same problem with the seats on the 34 when I had stock seats. You do so much as rest a cold can of coke there for half a second and suddenly you have that ugly mark. I was able to remove it with just your common autobarn-esque type of interior seat cleaner, it actually responded pretty well. As for the scratches I have similar problem and the surround and gearbox is like $80 but I am interested in the heat gun method too if it can be better explained. One of those things that makes the car look awful during the day but looks fine at night