Kinkstaah

until you mod it and hey look, planned mods!

To be fair, car has been pretty damn reliable once the somewhat important head stud was the actual correct part. TWAS A BARGAIN.

I told you what you should do if you were gonna mod a 34 sedan or Stagea, Moh.... (the answer is: Don't) Or if you must, buy someone else's project, the bigger the project the bigger the savings.

Whoops, turbos are infact listed!

Was just referring to this post here ->: Yes that is the whole setup, but you kind of need a whole setup to get one of these going.

Obviously having power is an important part of the equation. But it's still only a part of the equation. If you took the savings on not buying an EFR and put them anywhere else, you may get a faster, more reliable, more 'known', more 'cheaper to replace' car as a result of it. The EFR seems to be super amazo. It does. But people who swap from anything old say this too. You can see evidence of it above, people who have something "good" don't really want to pull it off and test something else good, because the 6266 makes people happy enough. This is probably why people bolt on their whatever and get a happy result then never post again or CERTAINLY don't want to pay 7K!!!! to do a back to back test. So people don't. So that's why there's no results

I don't think there's really a lot of sense comparing -5's to anything modern. Really the -5 and -7/-9 are older tech and of course they'll get punted by newer tech. Whats more interesting to me is the comparison made just now, with the 6262 (on a 2.6) vs a RB30 with an EFR8374. The fact those are actually even comparable is somewhat alarming because this thread would have you believe the 8374 with 0.4 more displacement should blast a 6262 into the weeds, but it doesn't. A 6262 is also comparable to a wound-up GTX3582 with a decent manifold as well. The "-5's vs GTX3582" that Motive did also showed a lot of the benefits that are discussed in this thread about how much "Betteretrerer" it was, even if it was 'only' 0.4 faster down the strip (mainly due to more powers) An argument could be made if the -5's with GTX2863 or GTX2867 cores were compared to an EFR, GTX3582, or Precision 6466/6266. I feel those comparisons would be a lot closer, because it's really more about "-5/-7/-9s" vs "NOT -5/-7/-9" There's also the element of how much "faster" really is faster in the real world. Would John Richardson beat that time in the Tarmac Rally posted just now in his ~320kw R33 with a Hypergear on it? That would insinuate bang for buck the EFR is a complete joke if your goal is to go fast. As a result, the only results you can ever really get are "feels" from people who have directly upgraded... from something modern to something else modern. that has happened....how many times exactly? 0?

For me it was 45kw lol. But my lid had no modifications and the difference was lid off/on back to back. My VCT was also not working, so fixing that got power on 800rpm earlier. So it pays to test all setups! I have made a solution to get mine going that looks stocker than that box, but still curious to know what it was. I was lucky that the seat of the pants feel was massively different (and so was boost) so it was very obvious for me to test my 'fix' Also worth noting I am auto. So if you make about 400 on a manual the lid will work. I was making about 365kw with the lid on and 410 with it off and the car decided to just run 28psi instead of 21. The restriction was real. That said it's still fine in my experience for any turbo on a 25 that wouldn't be too laggy to actually want.

What is that airbox for the 34? Setup always matters for results. I actually just found myself how much restriction the airbox can be at 400+. Though, my blitz fmic is still going strong.

I'm interested in this cause cheap tow home to Glen Waverley

Should that happen you can rest easy Rekin and put my engine directly into your car for the low low price of three hundred times the cost of a GTST

but whooshes m8 it says 40rwkw on the box

So I actually picked up 40rwkw by putting a pod filter on. I also picked up 750rpm of peak power response by having VCT actually work. I guess it pays to test shit. Also pretty sure gonna die soon due to above two things.

Thanks mate, I sent you a PM!

It was about 370 but through an auto, which makes it more responsive in terms of power to road speed that's for sure. Also a RB28 which has had quite a lot of work.. so I don't think my setup is really that comparable to the OP. But for pure power, I suppose it is. On a standard RB25 with a manual (IMO) with a 7k rev limit it's just not enough of a powerband. RB26 maybe cause they can rev to 8k. The extra 1000RPM of rev band makes the difference for me. RB30 probably just fine which is why you see it a lot. However if I was going to that extreme I'd personally get a Borg Warner and love life. The GTX3582 is about as big as you can fit to a stock manifold which is kind of how mine ended up there low mounted, my engine bay is exceptionally boring.

If it's a 2.5 it'll be pretty nuggetty. I have this turbo and on my 98 tune is about what WARLORD mentioned just now. 400kw at about ~23psi. Mind you, its a RB28 and not a RB25/30. So like always your results will vary.

Would you swap for a RB28 turbo sedan with a violent amount of cash in the other direction (assuming you wanted to mod said sedan in the future?)

If Ferrari is doing it, it may actually be something that works.. Yes this would be a workaround where the gearbox isn't matched really for the engine. This is kind of an issue for skylines. I don't think it would actually nerf the power, if I could choose to have my gtx3076r making less power (still 400 in a manual...) or a GTX3582 which I can rev out to 7500, the 3582 had a much meatier power band. So even though the boost came on "later", I had more revs available to actually use it. I mean choking in the way of 120KW of lost power in the 500rpm from 5700 to 6200. The concept however is quite sound and yes I agree, get a turbo that's just nosing over/making peak power realistically where you're going to be revving/using the engine every day of the week. My throttle map/boost idea was only cause a) I could (yay haltech) b) I may need to with a 33gtst box c) Traction means it isn't any slower. End result would have it feel like a N/A engine and be extremely linear in power. I am fully aware that "more linear" really means "Less midrange" but if you're on the edge of grip at 75% throttle in the midrange anyway, there's no functional loss if you are 100% wot through that section and have your power more closely match what the tyre can actually keep in contact with the road. And it may not explode the gearbox. That said my auto has not exploded, and it has paddles to comfortably hold a gear anyway. Was just musing because the "GET A f**kING MANUAL" assaults me from all sides literally on a daily basis.

That's the thing though, most dynos have *peak* torque at ... I dunno, 4k? Usually when the car hits full boost, middle of the range. If you backed power off in that range, your torque would not look like that. Instead of being 620nm at 4k then bleeding off to 500, you could have it peak at 500 and stay at 500 the whole way through the rev range. Look at most people's dyno sheets, the max power figure is not where the most torque is. At least in my car having huge power at 4k only rips tyres anyway. I'd probably result in a car which is faster through being easy to drive, and won't smash gearboxes. I am aware that losing traction means driveline stress wouldn't happen anywhere near as bad, but usually 33 boxes die from stripping gears. Under load. Usually 3rd. Usually when cars are on full boost/torque and not losing traction anymore. So my idea was simply to spread that out over the rev range instead of having it all come in hardcore when the turbo spools up. Going a smaller turbo isn't an option for me, my car has the tendency to choke the living shit out of anything smaller than a GTX3582R. I had to run a GTX3076r with a limit of 5700rpm to avoid the car melting itself. Ideally you'd just have a gearbox that can handle the torque. But rarely do we get exactly what we want in modding cars

I was tempted to see what would happen if deliberately inducing lag by ramping boost late (like a centrifugal charger) would be a way to get 400+kw from a R33GTST box. Would be interesting to see what the torque curve would be like if you run say 14psi at 4k then ramp it slowly to 25psi at 7k. May be a way of keeping a box going. Should result in a big flat line for torque as opposed to a massive spike then it falling off.

I saw that engine come up while mine was currently being finally built correctly it would appear. Did think "yeah if that was a fair amount lower I'd maybe be interested maybe" If a perfectly good neo is for sale 6 months then man people are clearly getting them elsewhere

I've had people unsuccessfully try and steal my car I feel there's a bit of confirmation bias about this concept really. One of those "you will never know if its working" kind of things. Sorry to hear Mr Maju

Every time I read the flame and anger I really want to post that I make 400RWKW at 4100rpm (I do!) ......with a GT35 wheel. .....with a 3in exhaust with a screamer pipe.... So everything posted in this entire thread is laggy as f**k and must absolutely be shit to drive especially on the street holy shit you peasants. But in all seriousness everyone's setup seems a little different. There's enough anecdotal evidence from people who have tried other things to say the EFR is as good as it seems and if you want to go top mount and don't fear anyone popping the bonnet then there's not much better to spend money on right now. People getting X result or Y result can be sort of ignored. If you go by the Hypergear thread it's enough to show you that general car setup and sensible mods that people get different results in different things on different cars for god knows why reasons. What truly matters is when people test them back to back, and people going from whatevers to EFR on the same car all go "EFR OMG *jizz*" Though I am yet to see anyone go from a nice Twin scroll manifold, Twin scroll rear housing, GTX3582 running 35psi and comparing that to an EFR and your power to RPM ratio is gonna be close. After awhile though you are splitting hairs and someone with 190kw in a MX5 has gone around on the outside at the track and is 5s faster so all dick swinging may be entirely moot.

I once had this be a pad problem, but the pad had actually become liquefied and had splashed all over the rims. Changed pads and problem went away. Note: You'd know about it if it was this, this was the pad that comes with the Attakd brake kit for street use. It is violently not up to task and fades in literally two corners. But it can happen!

TC's are always best matched to the rest of the setup, they are sensitive to the torque actually applied to them to achieve the target slip that they're set to make. I.e my 3400 stall may not be your 3400 stall. When I asked for my custom one made they wanted engine blueprints from the engine builder (which I had) which they devoured along with a dyno sheet from the current converter. My ET and 60ft are very bad. Tyres are the secret to that. The best I've taken down there are Yoko AD08R's which are a great street/track tyre but I find it a struggle to get them to bite at all, but at least this isn't a fault of the torque converter/engine/turbo lag match it was initially