Kinkstaah

The SAU policy of not having any negative criticism towards workshops and only positive stuff does result in some very shoddy stuff happening at many workshops that are 'recommended' because of the confirmation bias. This is a legitimate issue if you use this site for research about where to go.

The severity of the things is entirely different. The difference is really how much concern there is for others, innocent bystanders. Doing 100 around a corner that has an "advised" speed of 50 in a 100 zone is very different to doing 250kmh infront of a school when people are picking up their kids. People in the video literally give no fks and do not concern themselves with hitting innocent bystanders. This is an important distinction here. Most people on the forum otherwise, when not being asked directly by police typically would think along the lines of "If I am the only person put at risk then this is OK". This video is not the same, nor anywhere close to that.

a corner would be nice

not mine edit: yet

Or just put the cat back in, see if the issues really do follow the cat converter... Or in reality and exhaust restriction/moar boost as others are saying

dafuq, I need to just go do that. That's wildly high. But then again Teachers complain about being underpaid almost as badly as tram drivers.

Yep, if you have a GT-Four then yet again a GTT RB25DET Neo is the answer That said, if I could have my time... and budget.... again, I would have loved to initially just aim for 280rwkw via a V8. Being in Canada though, I'd wager use whatever is easiest to get to you.

I'd go as far to say as if you have a RB26 Laying around, and a blown RB25DET Neo inside the car, the best way forward is buy another Neo and sell the 26. It's nearly impossible to say the 26 is better even on a blank sheet of paper. Neo has oil feeds blocked from factory, is strong as hell, far less complicated, and VCT. The 26 can rev to 8k, which is 500 more than what people typically rev the Neo to. There really isn't a compelling reason to have a 26 in anything, let alone swap a 26 into something. If you want that wank factor just fit RB26 cam covers and timing covers to your RB25DET Neo and lie about it being a 26.

If you have a GTT, then your job is already complete, as congratulations, you've upgraded your RB26 to a RB25DET Neo already!

More is always better when it comes to cooling, but its better to think of things as restrictions rather than walls. I made 360rwkw on 98 through an Auto with a Blitz return cooler. Intake temperatures were about 40C in the dyno room. Like most things (all things?) have a target set in mind before you start and aim at that and everything will seem simpler. Also like most things, its better to pay a little extra for overkill, because really every single part in an engine setup is really just supporting the turbo to work its best. Running a GT3076R well that will be the limitation to some extent. Someone making 280rwkw at 17psi on such a turbo is exactly what you would expect, this isn't indicative of a wall or restriction at all. If it was a GTX3076R running 28PSI on E85 making 280rwkw then it would be another story!

Is this the first instance of someone actually listening to forum advice and taking the correct path?

Pictured above, one damn sensible choice of turbo for a RB25.

The better was at Daniels Donuts, which is a 24 hour Donut/Pie shop which is in a little "shopping centre" with a massive shared car park which is outdoors and open 24/7. Apparently police came and shooed everyone away, when they were legitimately buying food from a place that is open 24 hours, none of the other shops in that area were open. Telling them to move on from a legal parking spot trying to legally buy food from an open business serving them? Pretty lolsy.

I suspect whats been happening here is you're pumping exhaust into your coolant through one way or another. It may have been happening through cracked bores (ask me how I know!) as opposed to a blown gasket. When they removed the gasket to put the new one in, was the old one actually blown? If the old gasket looked perfectly okay, and the head wasn't actually lifting then it could explain it. When my most recent block went (lol.) It would idle on 5cyl, but any revs would end up making it rev fine, but what was happening was cylinder pressure was overcoming coolant pressure and pumping it into the coolant. It otherwise 'drove fine'. Won't really know for sure until a post mortem (which is $)

I have a spare OEM HG for sale But in all seriousness I didn't reuse any of my Tomei Metal HG's even though they claim to be re-usable. Just didn't want to ever risk it. It would be cheaper to keep the head you have, but its a lot tricker to trust a block unless you know how to inspect it and know it's fine when it's apart. It will save you to do that if you can. It'd be more labour but the block will cost less than an assembled engine. Probably still work out in your favour and then you don't have a spare, perfectly working head. Then again someone may want that spare perfectly working head for a RB30. Or you could just get a great deal on a fresh RB28.

Put another stocker in. Continue enjoying car. If changing direction... Put stocker engine in, sell car. You cold advertise the parts and remove them as they actually sell. (If you have stock stuff to replace with) Dirty 30 is another option but not if you want a RWC or plan on selling. Would stick with another neo. You may sell it with no engine, but I expect the price you get will be less in your pocket than it would be selling a running car, after also paying for the engine being replaced.

I would like to, though I have no real "reason" to get rid of the auto which admittedly works pretty fkin well and refuses to die. I would NOT recommend this turbo on a 2.5, especially not on a manual 2.5, and wouldn't even without a custom stall converter on an auto. it'd be fkin crap. No power till 5k and a 7k redline = shit life. The reason I wanted a smaller turbo, that makes ~320-340 is that is close to the allowable max of a manual gearbox as well. It's a little bit over actually, but its not complete instant death to the gearbox... I actually would prefer a 7163, but given that MAXES OUT HARD at about 320-330kw and there is danger of overspinning them... I'll go one size up and run it at 80%. See? Logical!

T3 Flange, and it was making that through an auto so... 460kw? Yes that's very high. I also thought that may have been a problem, but I never experienced any boost creep. Hence my test with 4psi.. which also does not creep. I guess the logic that the ports all have to converge in a flange of some sort is sound, though not as nice or as smooth as a T4 Twin scroll setup. I entirely agree with this sentiment, but the GTX3582 did drive better than the GTX3076 did as well, better transient repsonse, just better everything really. The GT35 wheel felt a lot 'better' than the GT30 wheel ever did in the setup. Neither setup was laggy with the auto spooling it up and getting it all going. There almost no need to ever change gears out of 4th (same ratio as 5th in manual land). Just give it 40% throttle and let the auto take care of the rest. Had quite a few people drive it and comment on how it didn't even seem to matter what gear it was in when you're at a cruising speed driving along in the road. Small turbos driven harder is good. 18psi is "harder" but that is not 35psi. I've never run more than like 22-25psi on my car, because I'm not chasing some record breaking theoretical dick measuring max, I just want what I've got to work pretty efficiently and work 'well' for what's in there. 186kph is about 6500rpm.

This is all running on a flowed out manifold that Tao from hypergear made. Before OH LOL STOCK MANIFOLD CAUSING PROBLEMS. I am able to put a 4psi spring in the wastegate and I get absolutely zero boost creep, it'll happily vent and run at 4psi all day at any load at any RPM. Plenty of others have gone tracking much harder than I have with gates off stock manifolds or turbo housings. I'm still planning on changing the manifold anyway.

Greg doesn't really, but that behaviour certainly wasn't seen in engines larger in capacity (like 3L 2JZ's). There's also no actual advantage once you're moving if your powerband is from 3K to 6K vs 4K to 7K RPM. To a certain extent, you can just rev the smaller displacement more. In any case, there was clearly something wrong, and I needed more flow out the turbine end or less restriction. That meant a 1.06 rear, or realistically a GT35 turbine with a .82. I did consider a GT3576R in .82 which would have been just fine, but the GTX3582 was a) Cheaper (I got it for $1400 new) I could sell the near-new GTX3076R, so I lost nothing in the swap over. It was cheaper for me to go GTX3582 vs putting a 1.06 rear on the GTX3076R. b) Easier, the GTX3582 is a proven product and definitely one of the 'best' turbos that garret made in the GTX range. The GTX3576 was more unknown, and more expensive, and made less power, and was a more expensive way of putting a 1.06 rear on the GTX3076R really. Keep in mind 22psi, it's not like I was trying to max the thing out and make 550RWKW at 40psi that some people do with them. There is method to the madness!

Top is the 3582. This is from a couple of years ago now, the most updated graph is in the Dyno section. (and is 'better') Point really was explaining why I went up a turbo size was logical at the time. Since then yes, I'm happier to run less boost/bigger exhaust/better manifold/different exhaust which has all happened since then actually. But my way of thinking (and Trents, and Scotty who was also there that day) was the standard motor has a rev limit of 7000-7500 functionally, and this thing is very upset at 6000, so it can't really be ideal. I didn't just change it because I have an insatiable lust for MORE POWERRRR for fake internet recognition. I'd much rather run something less hard and utilize the rev range the motor has/should have. Just feels better than beating the daylights out of a turbo to within an inch of its life. (moreso, I have overspun one of the GTXs!) and short shifting it. Just didn't seem like the best of plans.

The bottom line is the GTX3076R Note: Car is auto. There is a known (and measured, I has all the sensors) 10% loss through the torque converter in the above graph. So when I say "400kw" I have adjusted that to manual land. This was at 22psi, on both turbos.. (with vct off/broken at the time) Point being I doubt many people would keep running the GTX3076R if their topend looked like that on the dyno.

Because they aren't ;). There's a reason the Mishimoto and RIPS and other higher costs ones cost higher costs, the way I looked at it (I had a basic one initially) is I kind of want the item to perform its intended function. A catch can catching 20% of the stuff going through that is a pretty crap catch can at when it comes to catching things in the can. You *could* be massively dodgy and just run a hose from where you currently have it into something temporarily to see if it clears your oil up. But it's a strange place for oil to be accumulating in any case given it's not anywhere else in the system. Oil coming out of the compressor cover isn't usually what leads people to think they have a problem with blowby and want to catch it in a can.

I wrote it out because there IS logic in it... But yes I much prefer a fat midrange over peaky top end and always have, especially without AWD. What works on a 2.5 really doesn't seem to apply to a 2.8 though. I don't mind it rolling over up top in results you see (like -9s) but mine was much more severe than that, it was really ugly and you could see the whole engine bay glow red from the rear housing.. It was a 'couple dyno runs then cut it short and go home' scenario. Its possible that over aggressive timing (30-32deg!) Was causing that as well. Live and learn!

7670 (going to be awhile before it is on, like, half a year) I had a highflow, then a ATR45 (the one you have) I went to a GTX3076R because I did not want too much power, I chose this over the HG because I couldn't replicate the results or expectations. I immediately replicated them with the GTX. I chose the GTX3076R because Supra people run them on a 3L, make nearly 400kw and have killer response, which has always been my priority over power. I went to a GTX3582R because I lost 100RWKW at 5800RPM onwards (between 5800RPM and 6000RPM I literally dropped 100rwkw) so it was clearly choked. So I went the GTX3582 which had a much larger overall power band as I could rev it out. I gained 1500 usable RPM at the top of the rev range, and lost maybe... 300? rpm threshold. If the GTX3076R choked, why would I be going back to a 7670 which is about the same size? Different manifold, much larger rear housing, and I'm only aiming at about ~320kw. Was pushing 400 through the GTX3076R.