Kinkstaah

LS1.

Rekin, don't think of it as an engine swap, think of it as a 2.5L stroker for your RB20. Not one person in the history of the world has ever regretted it. You seem to love your R32. Do the single best thing you can ever do for it.

Is this list actually updated? I know a few people who have entered but not on that list, was about to enter now but I wanted to know just how many people are going Any chance it can be updated before uh, tomorrow? Are late night entries allowed?

That's the thing, there isn't one that you can buy off a shelf. Everything you can get that is decent is custom, really because drag cars and turbo cars in general are best off being matched to the right TC, unless its a factory engine. And most factory engines have a torque converter matched to them by the manufacturer, if its a factory engine. I went in with a dyno sheet with my converter that was in there and got TCE in Melbourne to match it. In my case it was only beneficial. The gears in a skyline are long, and there was a big dead spot at about 60kmh if you wanted to get onto power because its the bleeding top of 1st, and too low in 2nd to be on boost if you make 400kw. The torque converter plugged that hole and it also plugged the hole for having boost and decent takeoff in 1st with a laggier turbo. My road driving is really quite fine with it. Shifts under the converter limit are un-noticeable. Most people don't know I am actually changing gears with the pedals on the wheel at anything under 4000rpm. But you really want it when the rest of the build is pretty finalized. My ECU for the Gearbox was about $1500 on its own, plus tune, plus wiring, etc. Torque Converter for $1600, custom flex plate (none exist on a shelf), and then you do the actual vale body upgrades and general gearbox strengthening, coolers, fans for coolers, etc. It adds up. My other stall (the one I have for sale) was near-un-noticeable over stock. It was definitely a more 2500ish stall and probably better if you had somewhere in the ~250kw region. I.e, a sensible street setup. I would sell my entire setup and go manual if there ever was a buyer for it. The thing is, its a road less travelled massively but it can be made to work (surprisingly well) but Nissan did make a damn good alternative right from the factory with a clutch pedal that most people find more fun. And sometimes fun is better than fast, especially on the road.

Buy mine I had a similar problem when I went looking, and ended up getting a custom one made for my purposes (not drag) from TCE but it cost around the $1600 mark. Prior to this I had a rebuilt one for the R34 box which had a stall of about 2500 mark, could be convinced to go to about 3k with some heavy convincing. But in the end I needed more for 400+kw that I am now running. Not much, but I wanted it to get going in 1st gear on the street so I upgraded. I still have the old TC for sale. And of course if you want the entire gearbox feel free to buy mine too, because unlike yours, mine shifts nice down low and kicks hard at high RPM, which is the benefit of having a standalone ecu to control the gearbox as opposed to making it just shift harder all the time. Though in the real world, that option is prohibitively expensive. I certainly wouldn't do it again unless you want a super drag gearbox that has good road manners which is sort of what I ended up having, lol.

"A workshop" (Not Centerline, as in actually NOT centreline) I wrote my car off as most know. Bought new car, cool Moved perfectly working suspension from old car, to new car at aforementioned workshop. They weren't damaged or affected in the accident in any way. Get car back, front is mysteriously low. Like, super not right. Take them back, ask to adjust height this time and not have a 45mm rake which didn't exist on the previous car. Front was like 325mm center to guard, rear was like 365 center to guard. Specified heights on old car was 355/345. Anyway, was told the fronts were maxxed out. Then was told they were "able to be fitted because dis-assembled/re-assembled" and heights are good now. But they were fine before, in the same model of car. After that, the fronts are crashy as, they will slam into bump stops over speed bumps, as though the shock has nearly no dampening at all... though the height is right. Also knock, creak, etc. Never really got a reason why this occurred. Just a lot of handwaving when pressed for any details. Hence wanting to go elsewhere for a 2nd opinion on the shocks by someone who will know Bilsteins back to front. Was planning to go to Quadrant for this, but have had other car issues in the meantime

Actually I didn't have issues... then I HAD issues after taking my suspension to a very well known shop that isn't Centreline... ......so, looking for someone who actually knows Bilsteins.

I had/have some issues with my suspension (bilsteins) Was considering going to Quadrant. Seem to have plenty of good reviews. Seems like they know Bilsteins well as well, which is what I'm after.

That alone is enough to make me consider an EFR, even if the GTX is 'similar' in the range I have mine. If the wheels really are that light, and the transient response really is as amazing, it stands to reason that anti-lag would be far 'easier' to activate. Makes you wonder what'd happen on the limiter under load though

It would appear I had the best viscous LSD in existence because this Nismo is worse in every way (currently). I would however wager over time my viscous would flog out with 400rwkw and this Nismo will break/wear in. But currently having it skipping while going around an 80kmh bend isn't really providing more grip for me, given my Viscous didn't actually single spin at all Even though I had the Viscous diff, and my Nismo box had the Viscous part number on it, I was told I absolutely needed the half shafts as the center in the box would not fit my original half shafts. So no light shed there as to which center to actually buy. Mine is the GT, not the GT Pro. Would recommend the GT Pro, if only so I could make it lock less (for me)

Whoops - Copied and pasted from the Gumtree ad - $1600.

Hi Folks Set of LMGT2's in 18x8 +33 and 18x9 +39. These are 5x114.3 (or 10x114.3 really) and have offsets that will fit a stock-guarded Skyline pretty decently. Unsure on how it'll fit on others, absolutely welcome to come and test fit if you are worried. The tyres on the rear are some very shagged/not very legal AD08R's, the fronts have a new (as in 300kms new) set of 235/40/R18's that I was planning to keep and use later on my new rims, so I'll remove them for sale unless you're willing to pay extra as the tyres are depressingly expensive. They are used and have clearly had some gutter grinding on them in the past as they're 20+ year old rims and thats how these things happen. Do have the center caps and new Nismo stickers if you're in to that kind of thing. I suppose I was but I didn't end up putting them on. Photos of car show how they sit on my 34 with 2.3deg camber on the front and the 235 AD08R (265 on rear). Located in VIC, will ship if need be but I'd rather not.

Unpopular answer: What you have is actually the best/most fun setup long term. Anything more than what you have the "fun" to "BS/Cost" ratio goes massively, massively down.

To add to the above post, I have 18x9.5 +27 all round, with 265/35/R18 AD08R (supposedly a little phatter than most) on all 4's. I have -2.2deg of camber at the front and about 1.5 on the rear. The guards DO need to be rolled/pulled a little to get these to fit. After driving around for a week without this being done there were many bad sounds and long strings of rubber peeling off tyres and such. I don't think this would have been a problem if running 245's like above poster ^---- The rear does tuck in under compression (I have a large amount of squat in the rear of my car when on the fun pedal)

Yes indeed I did lol. I got it right as I saw GTSBoy's post >.> I am a bad person. But yes - ONLY the R34 Series 2 manuals have a helical from factory. This is 8/2000 to 2001 models (not many in AUS but they do exist). I have a series 2 myself but it's an auto. Also fun, many many plugs and sensors are different to the S1 because.... reasons? All signs seem to point as GTSBoy said, the center is a different part number only because it has to mate to the helical half shafts. I suspect the GT Pro model number is the same for all cars as it comes with half shafts to suit. But again this is a suspicion there.

SMS sent

Where oh where are all these elite guard rolling people available on a whim? Never seen a service so not-responding to contact attempts!

Yep, the theme breaks it. Works fine in default theme, the dark theme is no good. Funnilly enough its only the forums HOMEPAGE that breaks. Works fine if you are in a subfolder.

I can't seem to load this page on Edge at all. Just attempts to load SAU.com.au/forums over and over then gives up saying the page can't be loaded or "there is a problem with this webpage" Works fine in IE, Chrome, FF. Dunno if reported yet but hey now it is!

Hi Folks I am after a set of rear drag rim/tyres that will fit a R34. Something along the lines of a 16" rim and a MT ET street. You know, the kind you have in your shed and bought and used once and then never again kind of thing and it's just sitting there. Sell to me, so it can continue the cycle of life after it sits in my shed after being used a few times! Please PM if this applies, Cheers!

farken too right m8

Simon that is tune man lol I can't imagine having any modded car with an ECU I can't touch now, would be required from everything going forward, SO worth having!!

I've left my car outside recently, covered in frost, started at 5am, water temp was something like ... low. Like "I should really consider the viscosity of this water going through engine" low. I.e, nearly frozen. Started fine. It's not really very hard to find out. What it needs is trial and error and most people aren't going to take their car back from the tuner and be happy to play with cold start settings. I was and I enjoy that so it was relatively easy to take the time to test but I can understand not wanting to pay $150 an hour over a course of a few days to get it bang on. Most people are happy as long as the thing actually starts. I am too, but I also had the tools handy to make it better, so I did that. I agree with you re: 270rwkw, housemate has S15 with 265 AD08R's on it and I say "stop there it's fine". Nice, responsive, grip, excellent. 400kw peak power at 4500rpm and holding that peak till 7500 is great but unless I run drag tyres (and a wheelie bar) up HWY it won't translate to much forward momentum. It does have its benefits once you have grip mind you, i.e where 4500rpm is 4th gear. Though it would be pretty lolsy getting up on 2 wheels on a traffic light drag. May have to go birds hunting.

The same? The only oddity I've ever noticed is that from switching between E85 and 98 it seems to bring up some kind of residue that likes to clog my fuel filter (which is removable and cleanable). To be honest though, having 400kw at 4500RPM is kind of pointless (cause grip) so really I should be just running 98 all the time cause there's no practical loss of anything in switching between them. Trying to tune them though you notice quick smart which is the better fuel. That alone makes me want to daily it on E85 tbh, its just a far better fuel, the car is just far, far happier to run on it. Smoother, way less charge temps on intake, etc. I'd personally want to use it when driving hard even if the power increase was 0. As for winter start being problematic, is an E85 myth. Couple of cranks (literally 2) and good to go.

OK.. I should re state. It is STILL running.