Kinkstaah

Har har. Cars are variable things and things change under the hood. It's better to be able to see them before you feel the effects of something going wrong. People only say "I don't need it, my Power FC is fine" until you do want a feature or your logs or safeguards catch something that is unmonitorable or unknowable with a more basic management system.

I haven't had any issues with my PS2000, couldn't really recommend it more, though obviously there are others which have much the same features. If you don't need it though, or aren't interested in it it isn't worth it. However I personally could never go back to an ECU without these features (power FC). For example my car has been tuned many times. I recently dropped the boost to 18psi because reasons. Driving down a totally private road yesterday my car was at 18psi and as it turns out my AFR was 13.1:1. If I had a power FC or even Nistune I would never have really known this. My engine cut after 1s of this condition and because Haltech (and other better ECU's) automatically log this I was able to pull over and see why my engine just did that, and add fuel to the appropriate cells. Yes I have a wideband guage but I did not look at it. I also checked to see why the ECU was not automatically adding fuel to that area via the O2 controller. (can Nistune even do this?) All of the above would just be ignored in a PowerFC world, and you'd be happily boosting away on 13-14AFR under 18psi and you would never, ever, ever notice until your engine decided to melt. Even after going to a tuner many times and being tuned many times on the dyno. Am I paranoid a bit about this stuff? Yeah, maybe. Maybe I've had more problems in the past than other people. But getting a decent ECU, knowing how it (and your car) works to me is really a minimum requirement. I couldn't go back nor could I ever be happy not knowing, or recommending anything less. Anything less is "probably ok, maybe"

Should also state that all it really does is put a 2nd throttle to 60% max throttle. I was able to break traction pretty easily with stock power with the traction control on

My car is less broken now but still annoyingly broken.

angry birds

If Windows patches at all, it is officially good enough for the workplace

To be fair, I understand where OP is coming from - I just don't wash my car for a year and let it stay dirty because the introductory courses in keeping it nice and clean are somewhat similar to introductory courses in rebuilding an engine. Either that, or it's not possible to do a passable job in 30min to an hour.

Tbh, I would go option 1) then consider upgrading the brakes if you find out that what you have just absolutely cannot cut the mustard. It'll either happen eventually and you will want more stop power but getting there and having fun at the track is a good way to find that limit. And if you find you never need to replace them then eh you haven't gone to the track that much and as a result don't really justify a $2k+ brake kit. Either way, you win out. Its not too hard to sell a set of front GTT brakes when/if you decide to upgrade later, especially if you have a receipt from them being rebuilt at XYZ shop on XYZ date.

I think the genuine part may have changed somewhere along the line. I tried a tridon one and a nismo one and then an OEM r34 one from kudos, and they all open at about 60C and thats pretty much my water temp.... Across 3 gauges.

Get Kobe beef in Kobe. Well worth it. Also a nice place too!

To be fair, all scary cars are only scary when scary. I was in a 400KW -5's R33 GTR recently and it felt very non scary, mainly due to the fact it really didn't give a shit about losing grip at any point. Stability is both good and bad in that aspect, I'd wager bigger, heavier cars like the GTS, or Leigh's car would do much the same. I've been told my boaty sedan feels a little that way too, but not in the same ballpark of a GTR or larger cars. Probably saying that is why a MX5 is fun at about 4kmh

I spun out all over the place on NT05's... at like 30kmh off throttle. Was great. I won't bother with trying to do another run at Heathcote with AD08's (never mind the fact the car never managed a pass last time lol) due to their horrific grip on the strip. I found them to grip much better on a normal road though. Also, there was a FG Typhoon the first time I went to Heathcote, making 420rwkw, had some suitable tyres, being MT ET Streets and was running mid 10's every run, so I'd wager "needs 500rwkw to feel quick" probs not quite so much, depending on what your definition of 'quick' is

4 different reasons. Point being as the poster a few posts up above said, your engine is only as good as the person who built it. And the more custom things you do, the more you are reliant on how good your builder is to get it right. I had this exact option many years ago, in the hands of someone who was very highly rated on this very forum, at the time. Put another stock engine in, or for very little money go forged which will surely last longer. And for not even that much more, why not use a 2.9 kit? I mean, it's apart, and it seems like sound logic. Sure, if the builder is great your RB28 can still be fantastic. But yeah. It doesn't always end up that way. As a result, I am a proponent of staying off the unknown path as much as possible. Saving Engine rebuild money and putting it into DIff, Brakes, Suspension, Tyres, and track time will result in a faster car, even if you make 320kw on -9's instead of 450KW on a 28 or a 30 on a nice twin scroll single. One of the cars will be left in the dust in the above example and it won't be the 26.

Tbh, as a BC 2.9 owner I wish I just bought another standard engine and didn't rebuild it at all. Because the 4 times its been apart since could have been avoided, and yes while laggier I would have had way more time you know, actually drive the car and spending the money on track days, becoming way faster behind the seat with a 2.5 than 2.9L myself is today on a forum.

Hard to imagine European cars being more common in europe

I have a d2/ksport 356mm kit you can try if you like btw! Pretty sure it won't fit though but hey who knows, one of the more common upgrades

In IT for 15 years, onto 3rd role. People do notice when you move fast though.

Technically pod is entirely legal if you have no other intake mods. Technically even more so, emissions is not a part of RWC, so you should be able to pass a high mount T5 turbo, forward plenum, pod, fmic, 2000CC injectors and a surge tank in the boot. But yeah, go as stock as possible[emoji14]

Honestly... I don't know where you are and what you are doing and all that but it could simply be cheaper to bring a GTT in than turbo a N/A lol If no one gives a damn then turboing a N/A you are on your own out there. You're going to need access to a tuner, ECU, a turbo, manifold and time, potential complications and then other stuff like weaker everything. I was exactly in your situation (but in Australia) where I didn't know anything as a n00b and had the same thing happen, except mine was a turbo'ed N/A. Even then, I would say the first thing to do is "sell buy gtt" If you can't sell the n/a, then maybe just drive it as a regular cheap Japanese commuter car

If you have to ask, sell buy gtt.

Yep, which is why you do neither and straight up buy a complete RB34 bottom end from someone like spool. Specifically that. Yes, they have to assemble it, but my problems really come from it being assembled wrong, multiple times. If it all worked fine first go, by all means yep do it, but as soon as any variable is slightly altered the chances of something going wrong increase exponentially (in my experience!). I would suspect guys like Spool to be building a solid product every time vs rolling the dice at the local engine builder. I actually make full power at 4000RPM Did think about pulling it out and putting into a GTR which has a blown engine with an adaptor plate of sorts because RB25 neo . But realistically a pipe dream when a GTR user can just save the money, buy a complete bottom end built by whoever and do that. The path less travelled can really bite badly when the stakes are engine builds.

If I was doing this again I would just go and buy a complete bottom end from someone like Spool or RIPS and save time, effort, money, time and effort and head f**king and time and money. Alternatively buy my very stock looking RB28 with a GTX3582 with VCT because even though it now works I'm still over the time, effort, money, time, effort, money and time and effort and money relating to a RB28.

Can confirm it's not maxxed out on the turbo side at least. I have about the same power on a .82 through an Auto at 23psi. Some people will run 35psi and make well over 500 with them so I doubt the turbo is the restricting factor here if you're willing to lean on it. 1.06 probably will help, depending on the rest of the setup will kind of determine how much you can get out of the turbo, but the turbo itself probably doesn't need to be changed but something bigger may bandaid the problem. The borg warners are good stuff, and better in many areas but it appears that as far as Garretts go, the GTX3582 is the 'good' one of the range and holds its own compared to alternatives with Precision and BW. For high 400's then man you have the right turbo already on the car.

Tried to PM you out of curiousity but got