Kinkstaah

I was going to say it looks right out of Gran Turismo photoshoot when you just buy the car. (in a good way)

Sold, pls delete!

Corvette thread then? Don't say I didn't predict the future again. "I love the little MX5, I do, but I just want something a little easier to get in/out of, a little more cushy and some power would be nice - I miss the V8 Rumble... I found this clean red C5 for sale recently and..." I'll do you a great deal on the next step, which is one of those but you can fit people in it, too.

I mean it's probably likely that people overestimate their skills in dialling in a setup and noticing the changes. I had SK shocks and springs, and added heavier springs and got them revalved by Sydney Shocks to suit based upon what I told them I wanted the car to handle like. I got back a completely different feeling set of shocks, which probably (?) feel great on track but holy hell are they rough on tram tracks and the like. The shock dyno actually looks pretty similar to Shockworks (from what I can surmise from a screenshot of a youtube video - and my dyno printout...) Truth be told I doubt I'd be any faster or slower with either setup, or camber/castor combination. I also had whiteline eccentric castor bushes up front of my R34. I removed them and put in poly non-adjustable ones to soothe my OCD (nobody ever set the castor the same side to side, and it'd be near impossible to do) and be happy the wheel is centered in the well now for clearance reasons. Yes I wanted it to move 1mm 'back' :p I've effectively set my castor back to stock, negating all the benefits of that which is supposedly massive. I've probably also altered toe and camber in a negative (detrimental) way. I can't tell any difference steering the car.

I'd want an even MORE side on view. More or less you want to make sure the outlet is actually square with the outermost part of the bumper. Or you end up getting soot all over your bumper from your hektik exhaust. In any case, it looks pretty close. I think the way to fix this is probably more of an overhaul at an exhaust specialty shop if you want tips that are rounded off or sit nicely with the bumper but have proper clearance and don't move - Probably more of a redesign than a quick fix. I've pencilled in my own exhaust with its own various problems, pinholes, PITA fitment, and other issues and can see myself going to a shop and saying "JUST DO THIS BUT BETTER?" Which is gonna work better than any more small fixes. I'm gonna chime in here officially with "from an outsider perspective this exhaust looks fine so this is self OCD probably" (which I also suffer from)

Yea - Needs a side shot TBH. Other than that, actually looks pretty good. My OCD would want to see it tuck 'higher' but melty melty is a concern.

have they? Link appreciated. I live in Casey. I can see both sides of the argument in this case. There's a lot of sketchy stuff going on. There needs to be a clear definition of what this is supposed to be IMO. I wager the intent was to be a broad sweeping brush against people who have 4 cars up on blocks on their front lawn, not someone who services their own car behind their own gate on a weekend bothering probably nobody. But it'd be hard to legislate the difference there.

I hate cleaning wheels. I like clean wheels. Wheels that take over 30 seconds to clean one send me into an unfiltered rage. I can't imagine having to jack up the car and remove wheels to clean them. How do you do it? The wheels do look great. But what about next time you drive and it feels like they're dirty by the time you leave the driveway? Also: If you love cleaning wheels, why aren't the barrels cleaned? I would expect that someone that into it would also keep the barrels clean. I plan on buying rims that are natively brake dust coloured to save time.

I did a bit of googling, the color MCM used was Galaxy Grey from House of Kolor. This is actually a colour I picked out about ~10+ years ago (or more). This one is a stock BMW colour, I guess over the years I figured it was smart to get an OEM colour that was pretty common for all of those sensible reasons one can think of..

ATTAKD 356mm Brake Kit for R34 GTT or R33 GTST. Same brake kit as per here from JJ: https://justjap.com/products/attkd-brake-kit-nissan-skyline-r34-99-02?currency=AUD Can confirm these will bolt directly to a R33 GTST with 12mm bolts OR to a R34 GTT (which is what I had) with the supplied bolts and the collets for the 14mm bolt holes in the R34, which are included. Also included is a set of rotors and hats, as well as 2x brake pad sets. 1) DBA XP (street, hills) 2) Forza FR6 (track) These are radial mounted and bolt directly to R33/R34. You will need extended brake lines to avoid them being full stretch on lock - this is common for all BBK's with the bolt point being in the center. In my case I welded another stud about 25mm lower than the OEM one and retained stock lines and fittings. You'll want a BM57 BMC to get the most out of these. I speak from experience. $1800 (neg for SAU people), located SE Suburbs Melbourne.

Set of R33 GTST Calipers, Rotors and Pads. Calipers just taken off my car, rebuilt about ~30,000km ago. Rotors have done about ~20,000km total since new. Pads have plenty of meat. One set is DBA XP (road, hills) and the other set is Forza FR6 (track) Still working perfectly, not rusted, or seized or whatever the hell that greets used brakes. All clips, bolts, retainers, slide pins etc included. Also have OEM handbrake shoes I can throw in there if you're doing a conversion. $650 for the lot, SE Suburbs Melboune/VIC

I feel I have covid right now. I spent the time between Dec 21 and Jan 31 pretty much working 16 hour days on the car after it got back from paint. It turns out you generate a long list of "things to do" while the car is off the road but functional. After going to visit my mate for a "Couple of hour job" doing the brakes, 3 full days later I got home There was more on the list, (it got added to while sleeping on couches) but as everything on the list got enthusiastically crossed out as it happened, I've actually forgotten what they were. From memory there were bushes that had to be pressed in and out, washer jets to fit, etc. Some Gregging highlights: 1) The panel shop covered up my washer jets and painted over it. Good job, I think. We had to drill the new bonnet to fit new ones, which was understandably extremely scary. 2) My handbrake on the RHS is f**ked. After never adjusting it forever and learning on the fly, this one is still on my to-do list. It tightens when you pull the lever, but at about 10% of the tension that the passenger side does. Thoughts on what causes this would be great. 3) Pouring an entire liter of brake fluid over the reservoir because I forgot how to use my pressure bleeder. DON'T PUT FLUID IN THE RESERVOIR. IT WORKS BY USING PRESSURIZED AIR NOT PRESSURIZED FLUID. 471907729_9242915229093447_2708910336906717367_n.mp4 I can confirm the vents work great though. 4) Some of the bodykit fixings were f**king awful. I'm talking screwed in with what was at most a 2mm screw, and could flap the kit around by hand. Too many others to mention. They came in, went out of my brain forced by other stupid tiny things that came up and "While the car is on the damn hoist we can fix them" which was a mission in and of itself, because the car has skirts and is thus a pain to put on hoists. Because we had to buff the windscreen to get rid of the overspray, I also had to very gently wash the car. The "Run 3 wires" task was to re-attempt another gregging thing which was: The LS1 ECU in Australia does not have oil pressure wiring because the Commodores do not have a 'real' oil pressure switch The Corvettes in the USA do have oil pressure wiring because Corvettes have a real oil pressure switch. The ECU is the same physical ECU. So what I could do is pull the ECU apart, run 3 more pins and run it to the OEM oil pressure ECU, and the ECU should do this. What actually happened is that Greg did this with some not-so-proper-wiring/connectors to the ECU pins which 'might?' be okay put the car back together, and then the fuel pump wouldn't prime. So you can imagine I immediately undid all this work, put the ECU back into it's original configuration, thought I'd do some more research about what connectors the LS1 Ecu actually uses... and try again later. Except still no fuel pump prime. After a lot of sadness and checking/double checking it turns out it was the relay in the boot that controls the fuel pump. All I did was switch the trigger wires and it worked fine. I looked at the relay and it was covered in bog dust and was unknown years old. It's since been replaced and working fine. After I got the actual connectors, and the wires were ran I gathered my strength and repinned the ECU and Voila! I apologize for these MMS 472164532_8829400773820369_5410969472548349643_n.mp4 And even via ODB2 on the headunit, woo. Now Torque Pro can raise hell on track if it gets too low. It has a wonderful EMERGENCY_DISTRESS_SINGAL style warning if it goes below a certain threshhold. 472585876_9345134268844369_146554337148747327_n.mp4 TLDR: Car great. HFM kit works. So much cleaning. Buy my old stuff. Thanks.

Source: This thread, and the thread this thread spawned from. Alternative take: Is heat actually an issue for the use case of this vehicle? I wonder if it actually would be. Nekminit

Twas your car many moons ago that gave me the idea!

You ask for things. You specifically state you want responsiveness. A link was provided for a far superior, more responsive option. Find a MX5 workshop that will install it for you. Maybe MX5 Mania will throw on the Fab9 kit. It seems they want to charge almost 14K installed for their kit, so if they charge you $6K to install the FAB9 kit then you'll be ahead? Though really, the 2.5 with a 2860 running low boost will more or less feel as good as anything else. It's a lot of displacement and a small turbo. Think of a more modern RB26 with one stock turbo :p TBH, truth be told I've been driving my own car, and use about 50% throttle at most for 99.9% of the time. Mr Bogan is likely similar so this is all going to be semantics for the use case he actually has. (He'll be happy with anything relative to now) However, the EFR is hands down far superior in this use case. You really, really, really, really do notice it over the Garrett or equivalent.

I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.

STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.

Buy someone else's modified car. It'll be risky - but so is modifying it yourself. People with Modified cars are often ready to sell. Find a nice sorted one, pocket the difference.

All of those are near new/brand new/done under 10,000km! This means something! It also doesn't necessarily mean anything.... The idea is of course to fit wider tyres and rims, and to go with engine head updates, I'm sure it will be faster the subsequent time out. But TBH the difference will largely be in driver mod between one day and the next I'm sure. To say I am unseasoned after many years away from even driving remotely fast is an understatement. Giving it half throttle and "Whoa, that's a bit excessive.." and realizing I'm doing 80kmh in a 100 zone is evidence enough lol. I have noticed that there is heat haze/steam/air/something absolutely steaming out of the car after parking it. I didn't drive it in the 40C day for testing yesterday, but on Christmas day it was ~32 and you could literally see the air coming out from the bay after parking the car. Whether that's enough though..

I bought the model back in Japan in Feb. I realised I could never build it, looked around for people who could build it, turns out there's some very skilled people out there that will make copies of 1:1 cars or near enough. I'm not really a photo guy... but people were dragging me in a group chat for the choice of bumper as someone else saw the car before it was finished as they are also a customer of that shop. I took the photo in the above post because I was pretty confident that the lip would work wonders for it. Here's some more in-progress and almost-done pics. It gives a good enough idea as to what the rear looks like! I have also booked in a track day at the end of January. Lets all hope that is nothing but pure fun and games. If it's not pure fun and games, well, I've already got half an engine spare in the cupboard

So my car is finally back from paint! This took an absolutely insane amount of work and should get it's own build thread - but I didn't build it. It was completed by Troy @ https://scalekustoms.com.au/ I originally bought the AOSHIMA URAS Type R kit while I was in Japan, it's supposed to look like this when assembled: Now, I thought that was cool enough until I opened the box with Dismay, as there's no way I could possibly have completed it. The thing is 1/24 and has details down to the steering wheel horn button, which is a 2mm diameter sticker. I originally wondered if someone could make it at all, as is - But then things got a little carried away. It's worth noting that the model does not have an openable bonne, let alone engine bay, OR an openable boot. - Troy has worked wonders with 3D printer and presumably better eyes than I will ever have. My photos suck, so I will post up some of his in-progress ones he sent to me during the way. Unsuprisingly, he is very detailed. A lot of these are out of order. But he: 1) Made a LS engine and an engine bay appear out of thin air 2) Made the bonnet removable 3) Printed the rims I will buy in the future (or any rim you want) 4) Printed and added the wing that is going on 5) Tinted my back windows as this is what my car has IRL (privacy glass) 6) Added a licence plate. 7) Somehow did the interior 8) 3D Printed my actual seats 9) Made the exhaust under the car connect even though this is likely invisible. 10) Created a boot with my fking battery box, power steering reservoir, subwoofer and toolboxes back there. To say it's insane is an understatement. And I f**ked it all up because when I was re-mounting the wing (it broke in transit) I spilled glue everywhere and ripped paint up and Gregged the rear half of the car. Which about makes sense. Also, this arrived on the same day. Quite the change from: I spent 16 hours per day over the next 3 days pre-christmas putting the interior back together, mounting lip, fixing various bodykit problems with window mouldings, etc. and servicing, rebuilding my 370z brakes to go on the car 'soon', messing with heights to check clearances for new wheels, etc. I also had a foray into mounting wiper-mounted washer jets which was an absolute disaster. The bodyshop has welded (and painted) over the stock jet locations for reasons unknown to everybody (i.e they forgot) I also wanted to wire in the oil pressure sensor on Christmas Eve which was a BAD IDEA. You do not know terror like pulling your ECU apart, pinning in half-fitting pins that aren't the right ones, but trying anyway because it's Christmas eve, putting your ECU back together and having a no-start condition with a fuel pump not priming. Then you undo all your work and the fuel pump still doesn't prime. So after all that terror and horror and pain and tedious disassembly, the issue was the relay in the boot which seems to have died/stuck when I was turning the car off and on about 700 times testing shitty washer jets. I also re-wired the fuel pump power plug which fell apart in my hands. I am very happy I had 3 extra pre-made ones from a few posts/last Christmas's breakdown. https://bluewireautomotive.com/products/10-x-pcm-ecm-ecu-terminals I have put an order for these in, so I can actually add the pins to the ECU properly. The commodore ECU does not have the pins for Oil Pressure via ODB2. However the ECU can support it if you create the pins and wire them in. So for round two, and somehow attempting to route that into the engine bay through my impossible engine bay grommet is a fight for another day. It's 40C in Melbourne tomorrow, I am half tempted to drive the car with the aircon on to deliver presents to my partner's family and see if it helps with the overheating-on-40C-days-in-traffic-with-aircon-on-only issue that the vents were intended to solve. Do I feel lucky?

Unfortunately man I don't think there's much here. You may very well be the only person to ever interact with/modify/have to un-modify that wiring. I was once selling a stalk. Due to how Nissans Nissan, the indicators and the hazards are on the same circuit. if you don't fully plug in the hazard switch, the hazards will work but your indicators won't. People then go looking for indicator stalks, but the issue is the hazard switch not being plugged in fully. That is the entire encyclopedia of R34 indicator knowledge lol

The engine stuff is Greg Autism to the Max. I contacted Tony Mamo previously from AFR who went off to make his own company to further refine AFR heads. He is a wizard in US LS world. Pretty much the best person on earth who will sell you things he's done weird wizard magic to. The cam spec is not too different. I have a 232/234 .600/603 lift, 114LSA cam currently. The new one is 227/233 .638 .634. The 1.8 ratio roller rockers will effectively push this cam into the ~.670 range. These also get Mamo'ified to be drilled out and tapped to use a 10mm bolt over an 8mm for better stability. This is what lead to the cam being specced. The plan is to run it to 6800. (6600 currently). The Johnson lifters are to maintain proper lift at heavy use which is something the LS7's supposedly fail at and lose a bit of pressure, robbing you of lift at higher RPM. Hollow stem valves for better, well everything, Valve train control. I dunno. Hollow is better. The valves are also not on a standard valve angle. Compression ratio is going from 10.6 to 11.3. The cam is smaller, but also not really... The cam was specced when I generated a chart where I counted the frames of a lap video I had and noted how much of the time in % I spent at what RPM while on track at Sandown. The current cam/heads are a bit mismatched, the standard LS1 heads are the restriction to power, which is why everyone CNC's them to get a pretty solid improvement. Most of the difference between LS1->LS2->LS3 is really just better stock heads. The current cam is falling over about 600rpm earlier than it 'should' given the rest of my current setup. CNC'ing heads closes the gap with regards to heads. Aftermarket heads eliminate the gap and go further. The MMS heads go even further than that, and the heads I have in the box could quite easily be bolted to a 7.0 427ci or 454 and not be any restriction at all. Tony Mamo previously worked with AFR, designed new heads from scratch then eventually founded his own business. There he takes the AFR items and performs further wizardry, CNC'ing them and then manually porting the result. He also ports the FAST102 composite manifold: Before and after There's also an improved racing crank scraper and windage tray. Helps to keep oil in the pan. Supposedly gains 2% power. Tony also ports Melling oil pumps, so you get more oil pressure down low at idle, and the same as what you want up top thanks to a suitable relief spring. There's also the timing chain kit with a Torrington bearing to make sure the cam doesn't have any thrust. Yes I'll post a before and after when it all eventually goes together. It'll probably make 2kw more than a setup that would be $15,000 cheaper :p

These arrived today! Sadly I'm going to probably be smart and enjoy the car as is over the summer/sunny period and save the ~2 weeks downtime it'd take to swap the heads over and tune later in the year. Maybe. It's going to be pretty damn tempting seeing these bolt on funs just sitting in storage when they're ready to go. There's a non-zero chance I end up @The Bogan'ing it.

in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.