Kinkstaah

Did you say this 8 years ago? The only reason I've persisted is because I got the Stroker kit for near nothing and had a free rebuild coming my way via someone who had a really, really great reputation 8 years ago. Someone who was recommended directly by someone else who owns a certain hub dyno, at the time. I did initially put a stock neo in, it just got exploded before I took delivery of it, my options were 1) Free replacement neo, which could have the same problem.. or.. 2) Near-nothing RB28 upgrade which would have 0kms on it, which you'd think logically would be better option long term. Again, this was 2007. We all have 8 years of experience since then to see what works longer term and what doesn't seem to. I would still say, that if the engine was implemented correctly that option 2) should still be the better option to go down. Even if you still only want 320rwkw, it's a better option to have a new engine over an old engine, assuming they are assembled to the same standard, which you would think would happen in most/all professional scenarios. You'd think.

To be fair it comes with all accessories, manifolds, wiring loom, ECU, and stock turbo in working order. If you remove all the costs of the extras, it only comes out a little more than a standard RB25. I advise all people out there to simply go to where a hiflow will get you on a RB25 (i.e 320ish) because its the point of which everything else breaks or becomes very visible to Mr Plod. Also its enough for driving as fast you can on the street. And unless you're quicker than Richo... it's all you need on the track too.

Was gonna say there's a NEO engine for sale for $2500. I can't even f**king pay people to do this kind of thing for my car, 100% confident a stock engine will last a lot longer than getting whatever the f**k has gone wrong with mine this time fixed. I am very used to something like a direct engine swap, when I can get the engine there, just taking 12 weeks because reasons. If y'all can actually get it done in a couple hours I'll just go punch myself in the face some more.

I expect to one day be lucky enough to blow an engine in the pit lane

Or have one, sell it, and buy another

Had a chocolate stout, thought "This actually works together pretty well"

Yes, but an exhaust bleed off gate and an external wastegate/screamer really has the same effect ultimately, which is to reduce pressure in the dump/immediately after the turbo. This seeeeems like it's easier to hide, easier to setup, etc. Then again, maybe the answer is to run a comically large dump pipe. 3in into 6in on a 45 regree angle anyone? Would have been nice to see how well my setup actually ran, if it would you know, actually run.

Psssh, I have two of them! How does that system actually work? Because looking at it, I actually thought it was a better (i.e, far easier to hide) system than Scotty's "external gate on housing" setup. Then again, why not just simply make the dump diameter that size?

It feeeeels discriminatory. Like the above poster, I'd be happy with re-doing license tests/capability tests to retain a license, something that may be progressively difficult for seniors to complete. After actually driving in Europe (Germany!!!), you realise that the problem isn't speed limits, its people just being f**king abysmal drivers down here, and makes you far angrier about people complaining about hoons, car mods, just general stupidity going on makes you rage hard. Something like blanket "S" plates highlights this kind of stupid, whereas the Euro thinking would default to "Lets train people of all ages"

But why? Once a car is owned, its history is unknowable, a mystery, and you know, people lie. Everyone lies, and even though everyone may or may not be lying, they cannot know whether you have a lucky RB that will last forever one or one that will explode within three seconds of babying it to buy milk on day one. EMBRACE CHAOS

If I get my engine up and running (forged RB28 lolssss) please buy that so I can just put a stock neo back in.

This doesn't really exist with the budget you have. Unless you want to buy like, someone's second hand exhaust and then do a little modding/fabbing to make it fit and work with your setup as every setup is a bit different. In other words, buy my old exhausts, thanks - Nothing off a shelf is going to satisfy the criteria you've listed

There are rules for it. I don't know why people don't print it out, and then show it to them and say "This XYZ is NOT a roadworthy item".

this or this

Sure was, by the people who installed the gasket! It may have been the head itself cracking. Time will tell. I don't immediately subscribe to 'they did it wrong' as this isn't overly likely

This almost happened, as my flex plate looked like this when the bottom end was rebuilt.

No, it is never like that for E85... it also wasn't like that when I checked the intercooler piping about 20 minutes before the gasket let go. (because oil in charge pipes). The Head Gasket is what has let go (or something else that mixes coolant and oil...) at most 150kms since a new gasket (Tomei!) and new ARP2000 head studs have been put in. Surprises all round, really. In the thread re: Different boost in different gears I also mentioned that this happens at vacuum levels too, it happens across the entire spectrum and is an Auto gearbox thing, the crash in the hills was at 30kmh off throttle entirely in the rain, across standing water and mud.

Mate, I am the most timid driver on all of SAU. This was no level of rage driving or drifting or 400RWKW in school zones or anything. I got it on Friday afternoon/night. I drove it maybe... 50kms around town, under the speed limit, off boost just to check for leaks. I had the haltech logging EVERYTHING the entire time, TPS, road speed, boost, gears, etc, everything. I do mean everything, super super casual driving just happy to drive the thing. I drove it a bit on Tuesday because hey, its back! And Hey, I may as well give it a drive (i.e in the same casual manner) to Mt Donna Buang. Traffic was huge, but I didn't care, so I just putted along behind a camry the entire time. I did think okay, it seems to drive around reasonably well, lets try some boost and immediately blew an intercooler pipe off at 10ish psi. Pulled over, fixed. Did again, blew off a different one, pulled over, fixed. Did this 2 or 3 more times then said "Oh well, its getting late, I'll head home now and didn't really hammer it but there will be many more days" Except there wasn't, because I passed a dude doing 90kmh on Maroondah highway in a passzing zone by going 30% throttle in 4th gear to pass him. Then I noticed I was running on 4 cylinders instead of 6, and the coolant gauge which I have mounted in the DIN slots so I can monitor things went from 62C (running temp) to 65 (hmm) to 68 (uhhh) and was 80 before I pulled over and immediately shut the engine off. The engine oil temp was normal at the time the HG went (180F) Then I checked the oil cap and there you go. I am not the kind of person who redlines an engine until it explodes. It blew, at most, under load which would be something like 50rwkw.

Nothing happened, it blew while I was overtaking a car in an overtaking lane at 110kmh in 4th gear. The only reason I built the RB is cause, well, the original one exploded and I had free labor and my options were forged RB, or replacement standard engine, both pretty much for $0. Plus there was a stroker kit for sale for near nothing. It appears however that no-one can actually build this engine, so, yeah... building something so it'd be more reliable than a 15-20 year old engine... lol was not.

Get car back on Friday Fark yeah, engine bleeds ok, head not lifting now. Farken sweet. Torque converter good, best mod ever Exhaust sounding nice, really good move there too Car driving nice, even fixed fuel tank lid Day off, maybe take a trip through the hills $310 tow home

I dunno about that...

How about pads for D2/KSport/Attakd kits? Are these options even available? I know I want to upgrade something before I attempt to stop my barge on a race track, and the pads that came with the kit (green ones) I can induce brake fade on the street in about four corners and have had brake pad splatter all over the place. Clearly not ideal lol. Been Recommended Pagid RS29's, but they are in the region of $700 for a set. What else is comparable?

Street tyres useless until warmed up some? My 14.7 agrees

Oh hey, thanks for the link. I do have the canister on my car... but I do NOT have that plug part.. at all. Which probably explains what is going on!

Sure is!