Kinkstaah

Well given the car pretty well at DECA and long wang on 1st attempt, and... every Silvia driver that's ever got in it has gone "oh shit, this is how I need to go setup my car" I'm gonna wager with nah. Unless every RB is setup badly in comparison, it really makes me think the whole SR20,4G63 > RB20 thing really just continues to manifest with the RB25/26 using the extra 500/600CC to make up for the shortfall And this in comparison to my (older, laggier!) dyno result which is here -> which most would say constitutes "quite responsive" for a RB http://www.sau.com.au/forums/uploads/monthly_06_2014/post-63726-0-07556500-1401681661.jpg

A combination of boost threshold and transient throttle response It is too much power at too low throttle input/speed/rpm for the tyres to handle, so any more of any of that = wheelspin and thus not actually beneficial at imparting forward momentum!

Unpopular opinion here sure, but I reckon without a doubt one of the best mods you can do on a RWD car Re: Responsive SR's and such, I was quite surprised as I was just putting around at the time. I did think as mentioned "ah okay, I can see why they drift these things" after being surprised and shitting myself. The car does actually grip quite well otherwise, though. Just didn't seem to require any more response because any more response is more than the tyres/suspension setup can actually handle, making it literally useless..

I was pretty surprised. Car is running 265 Hankook Ventus RS3's too. Really, REALLY had to feather 1st and 2nd to get it to 100, it was really quite eye opening. I thought my car had no grip (to the point of spending big bucks on a aftermarket traction control system.. which rocks) But yeah. I was like fark damn okay. I know your car makes.. 275 with change on a RB25 from memory (pretty much entirely from forum stalking), I would be surprised if it actually felt more responsive than the 260KW SR20, but this may have something to do with car weight. Not saying there's no difference, I mean I noticed the difference from 2.5 to 2.8! But there isn't a LOT by any means. Yeah, the previous engine had a lot of issues presumably by who it was built. Just having HS put it together resulted in basically having the effect of another stroker kit ontop of it. I made the same power with 10 deg less timing and 8psi less boost, with a good 500rpm better response. Then it let go. ARP Studs specify 90ftlbs and they put 80 on the blueprint, and it lifted/warped. I suspect the issue was always there mainly because I couldn't actually bleed the f**king thing since I got it, but figured "it'll be OK" until I was emptying a radiator every time I gave it a bootful. (driving it normally around was fine) I used the head gasket they recommended, which was a 1.1m Permaseal one cause wanted 9:1 CR. Spent the money on a Tomei one this time around, and re-bought head studs so I can confirm a million percent what the f**k is in there.

tbh I have ordered the gasket and studs but they haven't arrived yet. Will be keen to see what actually happened, as it was picked by my keen spidey sense of "SOMETHING IS NOT RIGHT" which has been honed by destroying everything over the years. I may end up going a 1.06 rear "just because" because HS believe that I've lifted the head due to backpressure, even though you'd think a .82 on a GTX35 would be enough to get the air out. But then again, who knows what'll happen once it comes apart. I will be pretty keen to see what studs were actually in the engine, if they were ARP2000's after all then they were under-torqued on the blueprint. If its only that, I'll be a happy f**kin camper lol

Not really that huge given the difference in displacement, but I guess its gonna be noticeable at under 100kmhs in any case.​ 260RWKW in a SR20 did NOT feel laggy. It was enough to kick the back out at 30kmh in 3rd at part throttle, boost is pretty much on any time you hit the throttle. I guess it depends on how much powarz you are making on your SR20, the example I was using is a GTX2863R at about 260RWKW, but at the same time feels like its the sweet spot, would lack traction at much more than that, and just get lag for no real benefit.. in that specific setup. it is entirely possible my car is a complete clusterf**k nugget At least you're out of the way for Headspec to start on mine now, i.e replace a head gasket so I should be good to go in 2021.

Was SST though Also drove housemates SR20... also does not feel laggy. Honestly kind of made me think the RB25 is pretty f**king laggy for the capacity, given how good other 2.0's actually seem to be relative to it Felt a bit like the 2.5 Subaru engines being 2.5 to keep up with Mitsu's 2.0

tbh... I was driving an Evo X, which has about 210 at the wheels. Now, its a 6 speed, but apparently they weigh 1650kg So it should be laggy and slow not so, it was punchy as f**k and felt far more zippy than my 2.8 regrets, I had a few

Totes sold a strut brace. Also for you auto guys out there that have somehow killed your Torque converter (i.e - Noone ever) I have a rebuilt torque converter because ... reasons.

All of the options pretty much are double rainbow maaaaaann,

People argue about tiny little trivial shit on the forums. Like so much. But two things they don't. 1) Get the manual 2) Sell and buy a gtst

I specifically got JE/Nitto to make pistons for my Neo. They were custom made to fit. You have R33 pistons in your hand, dude.

tbh if anyone of us saw a real concours quality R32 GTR we'd all echo his comment, lol

What is this % anyhow?

but... but.. that is literally the entire, somewhat valid argument

about some, yes

GTSBoy is right on this. All you'd want to do here is convert to a 26 (or stagea AWD neo) and have a little AWD car. Given how cheap a 33 GTST is, save all the headache and get a running one if that is your intended aim.

If you are in Japan only 10 days do not waste a single second on cars.

Yes, but you're assuming on the mix. An empty tank is never a fully empty tank. I've run a tank of 98 down to the light and filled with e85 and had something like 58% Ethanol content. I've also at times forgotten to plug back in my E85 sensor, and cruised down the street with a 19:1 AFR with E85 in the tank. The car however, felt fine. Me being me, I would go through at least 2 tanks of whatever fuel before I even decide to get onto any boost after 'swapping'. But my car will probably break down between the two tanks anyway

Housemate did it with Nistune with Trent - Very very good on his SR I did mine there but my 98 tune was more of a "emergency use only with a bit of spirited driving", but even then it needed a lot of touch ups, hence the whole "it takes a shitload of time to get right" Cars will run well on non-optimal settings though, Birds saying dat power FC swap after half/3/4 of a tank of E85? makes me really uncomfortable but I'm a stickler for that kind of thing as well, I break all the things

Was curious mainly cause my engine exploded, and I know yours kind of did, and kind of went back, and kind of has issues, so I have a vested interest in your car also working right Getting flex fuel right though, man... requires mastery and a lot of patience, or a f**k load of money paying a tuner to have a lot of time to spend on it

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As someone with a sedan, looking for a decent seat in the future.... please keep posting cause this is super useful

I have never had a pinging issue, ever, fyi I don't need det to smash engines to pieces for no reason, I have transcended traditional problems

My R34 has had issues with fuel filters before. Changed to an Earls and changed that when it became blocked, but I noticed this by the car running lean under power, which coincidentally was about the same amount of power you have All it took for me was to run one tank of 98 and switching back to E85 to see my filter full of stuff. Pretty much want to change it any time I do an oil change now, I would lose my mind if I didn't have a wideband that will cut the engine if the event of a lean condition as I'm super paranoid about fuel filters now.