KrazyKong

I contacted Andrew at Kudos and he confirmed these are just good quality reproductions. I guess the question then is, can a difference be seen between a genuine and a reproduction? I might have to purchase one of the reproductions and then compare it with a genuine blank that I have.

I've noticed recently a whole bunch of the famous Nismo metal key blanks appearing on eBay and also on the Kudos website... http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/blank-nismo-style-nissan-a31c33r32r33rnn14s13s14wc34z31z32-p-2400.html These keys in years past used to sell for several hundred dollars USD, but are going for $70-80 now 🤔 Does anyone know if these are genuine? Good reproductions? Old stock that someone has discovered? Or has Nismo has started making them again? Hoping someone might know Cheers

Only looking at interior parts like dash clusters and brakes etc. I've got a very underpowered 2.0L non turbo Impreza so there's not much I can be doing to the engine anyway.

I'm after Impreza info, and to some degree Forester info as well, as I've discovered I can source parts from a Forester to use on my Impreza. I've posted to a few forums, but haven't received any replies. That's fine I'm not after instant replies, but it's been a week so and thus I figured maybe I'm posting on a dead forum. The info I'm chasing is in relation to dash clusters and also brakes/calipers/discs/drums etc.

Subaru Forums like here? Hey there. For those of you who own Subarus as well as your Nissans, where is a good forum on par with SAU, to ask questions and gain info?

You mean just keep on driving and wear the pads and rotors out?

I had the rear tyres replaced today. My rear rotors look to need machining. Is it worth trying to use the old pads? They are about half used, or just chuck them and start fresh with the machined rotors? I won't go hungry if you guys say yes, but it just means more money I cannot spend on the respray and then nistune/turbo replacements.

Bro you helped me install the QFMs when I bought your KYBs and Hardrace castor rods a couple of years ago. Yes it's just a daily driver. The QFMs still suck. Yes I could just go ahead and replace them, but want to get my moneys worth out of these QFMs unless there is a market for second hand ones. I can't comprehand just how bad they are. The car stops on a dime, but I pay for it in squeel and dust. And that's why I picked QFM in the first place after reading reviews on dust from other brands. How much did you pay for Remsas? I just recently bought some Protex I think it was pads and discs from Bursons for a family members Pulsar. No shims, no grease nothing. Just used a metal brush and cleaned the hub and installed them. Silent! Pads were only $39 for set. If I go machine the rotors then maybe I should just get a new set of pads I don't know. But then I fear doing all this and they still squeel. That would suck.

It's been a year or probably even longer since I put on QFM brakepads. I did not get the rotors machined as everyone I've showed them to, said they were fine and did not need it. The problem since going onto QFMs has been the dust AND the noise. They squeel so much. I've taken the pads off and re-applied that special blue brakepad grease stuff at least 3 times now. It fixes things for a few days, then it goes back to total crapness. What have I done wrong? I just replaced the rotors and brakepads on a family members Pulsar. No shims, no grease, nothing. And the car is silent as can be. It was just the cheapest pads and rotors they had at Bursons. Should I have machined the rotors? Should I go get them done anyway since there is a local place that will do them for $15 each if I take them off the car and drop them in. My previous pads were Nissan Hitachis and were silent with nowhere near as much brake dust. Am annoyed I've not been able to solve this

Hi Robo. I'm attempting to help the painter by doing some of this sort of work myself to bring the labour costs down. Since the door is red and my car is silver, he wants to paint all the insides of the door and around the edges before it's fitted to the car, where it will be blended and all of that. I think I will take the glass out. I still have the damaged door too which is currently on the car and it's glass is fine so I might use that one instead. I just wanted to know what to do, so that when I drop it off he can do whatever painting to it he needs and I don't have to worry about what I should or could have done before hands. Thanks for the explanation Robo

I've got a used door to replace the one I put a massive crease in. Seeing as how there are dings and things all over the car, it's going to be an expensive operation to get it all sorted and pretty much just a full respray. I have a used door (maroon/red colour) that still has the window in it. My car is silver by the way. What should I do before it's painted. Should I take out the glass and everything? The painter would like the door itself first to paint on the insides etc., then will fit it to the car and do the outside, blending and respraying etc. Is taking out the glass and whatever is in the door difficult?

Maybe it's speed. Quicker to fill it up to a lower pressure and thus time is money sort of thing? I have no idea why they under inflate either, but I've always known they have for some reason. These tyres were used when I got them, so not too sure it was all me with the higher pressure, but I think for this next set I'll go lower. Instead of 40 maybe start at 36/37 and see how that goes. I like them high, but don't want to wreck the tyres.

I'm going to keep the best RE050A and use it in the garden haha

One of my current Bridgestones is showing wear in the middle of the tyre so maybe I've had it pumped up too much. I normally go 41PSI as I found out you'd lose 1PSI when disconnecting the hose. So was running in effect 40PSI in the rears, but now think due to that wear patch maybe it was too high. I do like them firm though.

I've always been a person who likes to have their tyres at the right PSI. However I never actually know what is the "right" PSI. Looking at the tyres gives you a MAX pressure number. This can vary from brand to brand and sizes. However most tyre places seem to under inflate the tyres in my view. Like putting in 26PSI when the max is 44PSI. I never go the max, but I would go maybe 38 to 40. Am I really supposed to go on the PSI listed inside the door, even though I don't have the same rims or tyres that came with the car? I occurred to me that maybe all these years I've been putting in too much air. Now that I got some new tyres, I think I need to fess up and say, I'm just confused now if I've ever been doing things right.

You're probably right about them not being as good as the RE050As, but I always knew I scored when I got them for $50 each. Back to reality now, so if they aren't as good, I still hope they will be good and worth the $85 I paid each for them. I used to have Nexen N6000s on the rears and when they got low in tread, they sounded like a truck. Loved the look and tread pattern, but they were so noisy and lacked grip, especially on say grass or anything other than a hard flat surface.

I've got some used Kuhmo's already, KU19s. They look in very good condition with what looks like near new tread on them. Am hoping they are going to be as good as the RE050As I've had on.

Found a near new set of Kumho Ecsta KU19 255/40R17 for $85 each. Going to get them fitted on the weekend. I've been to Jax once to get a puncture repair. They proceeded to tell me I wasn't allowed the Bridgestone Potenza RE050A funflats on my car. Nah uh, nope, I wasn't allowed to use them they said. Thus they could not repair the tyre. WTF!? So I had them put the tyre back on, and drove to the local guys who fixed it for $20 with the old tar & rope repair method. It Hasn't leaked since.

OMG wow, so the tyres I've been running on the rears are Bridgestone Potenza RE050A 255/40/17 runflats. Did a quick search on Jax's website and they are $359 each. Best $100 I ever spent that's for sure lol. So going from those to Nangkangs or Nexens is going to be stepdown for sure. I still don't quite understand the speed ratings and all that though. I don't race or drift my car, it's a daily driver with the odd rare burst at the lights. Nangkang have these two models in the NS-20 range. 255/40ZR17 94W 255/40R17 94V Was quoted $159 fitted each.

I've been using a set of used Bridgestones on the rear that cost me $50 each. I believe there were a very expensive tyre as they are the no flat ones as well. But they are worn now so it's time to get new or "new" used ones. 255/40/17 isn't a popular size at the second hand places unfortunately unless I go with the 245/40/17 Toyos at $50 each. hardsteppa, where is that from? Jax? I won't put 235s on the rear seeing as how they are already stretched a bit on the front. Even cheap tyres are going to be better and safer than the Bridgestones I've got that are past due for replacement.

The tyres that had were Sailun's. I've not heard of that brand them before. My choices were Nexen Nferra Su1 (I have them in 235 on the front and no complaints thus far), Nangkang, Archilles and that was it. I know they are all on the budget scale, but I cannot afford Bridgestones or anything past $160 per tyre at present. I guess I wouldn't mind my speedo being more accurate, but in a way it's nice to know I got a little safety buffer there haha. I've heard of folks putting on 265 tyres on their stock GTR rims. Has anyone done this or would you then start scraping the guards?

I have some 255/40/17 on the rear of my car fitted to some R33 GTR stock rims. I was at the tyre place today and they did not have any tyres of this size. They did have some used 245/40/17 Toyos and 255/45/17s. Has anyone broken with tradition and used 255/45/17 instead of 255/40/17s? Other than the speedo vs actual speed you are travelling, what would be the issue?

Doing a front end conversion isn't in my budget to be honest. Even if my headlights are now yellow I'm ok with how it looks. But I've never really liked the S2 front bumper and have always liked the S3 picture above. I have a '96 R33 S2. I'd be happy with a front bumper that was close or even matches that. Is this an eBay thing, or are there companies that make them specifically for the GTS-T?

What are my options in replacing an R33 S2 GTS-T front bumper with one that looks like a stock R33 GTR one? Even though I lose the fog lights, I really like the look of this one here, which is a Series 3? I'm soon to get a re-coat possibly even a full respray. So am trying to think ahead since my current bumper will need repainting.

My rear rotors are not smooth and have a curved indent on them on the inner most part of the circle. Again not knowing much about brakes, I thought when they got like this, that you either machined or replaced them. I could certainly just put some new pads on but then the new pads will only be half touching the rotor until they either wear into the curve or who knows? That doesn't feel safe to me.