KrazyKong

Because people don't know about it Galois. You're going to be hard pressed to find Sougi in a store for starters, and secondly using Nulon as an example there's a whole bunch of false advertising as to who is really selling fully synthetic oil. And thirdly, if you had never read this thread, you'd never know anything about Group III, IV and V grade oils. I know i didn't. I just went on fancy packaging and what the product "said" it was. It's a shame GW don't try and market Sougi. I mean it's not like it's in stores and they give it little promotion. It's not even in stores for starters and gets only word of mouth promotion. And about the Drift filters having a magnet in them, I don't think it's just for metal shavings. There are all sorts of fine particles, dust, sand etc, that it can also pickup. How they became magnetized I'll never know, but whenever I have a magnet lying around, it mysteriously attracts these fine particles to it. So if it's in an oil filter, it can only help I reckon.

It you can forget for a minute it advertises itself as a fully synthetic oil, then it's not bad. But it's not a genuine fully synthetic oil. It's also expensive when you realize it's only a semi synthetic. The price is between $50-60, and you'd be better of tracking down a Gulf Western distributor and purchase a 5L bottle of Sougi S 6000 for $60. It is a proper fully synthetic oil equivalent to Royal Purple and Motul. The 8100 is a good oil, but it doesn't come in 10w40, only 5w40. So if weight is important and you really want or need 10w40, then you'd going to have to go with the more expensive 300V Chrono, the cheap option of some Turbolight, or go with Royal Purple. But I'd recommend the Sougi S 6000. For $60 you get the same weight oil as the 300V Chrono for half the price. $60 for 5L can't be beat for a genuine fully synthetic oil. Aye, the more I look at it, the more I get annoyed that Nulon's advertises they product as being "fully" synthetic oil. Basho, for sure give the Sougi a try. I went from Penrite HPR10 to the Sougi and am glad I did.

Josh, I think alot of people here are talking about worst case scenarios, and just being careful in the beginning when doing mods, so that it's done right. Race into something, and not spend much effort and thought into it, and you might be sorry down the line when being defected. But it's all pretty much subjective, so if a copper is a dick, he will bend you over until he's satisfied. I've been pulled over for two random breah tests during the past 6 months, and was never asked to pop the bonnet or anything. Just blow into the thing, then drive off basically. But naturally it's different in all parts of Australia. And wherever you go, there is always an asshole copper just waiting to make someones day a misery.

Well there's a FMIC, then there's a rice FMIC. You know the ones where the guy who owns the car, has it seems gone out of his way to have the FMIC as far out into the bumper as possible. Then the side pipes and silicone hoses all showing as well. Painting the FMIC matte black and not going crazy cutting out chunks of your front bumper are possible. Also, going with a return flow vs the wrap around ones helps preserve that stock look. I'm a big fan of the understated, all stealthy and hiding power underneath rather than the guy showing the world he's done this and that, and chromed his nutsack just because he could.

So if I'm able to gap them without damaging them, then for $6.33 I got a good deal for some Platinum plugs. From memory the NGK Plats were over $21 each, so I can understand why alot of peeps say don't bother with them. Not sure what the Iridiums cost, but compared to Bosch's prices, the NGK ones are ridiculously expensive. One of the more known dyno places on the Gold Coast also mentioned to use Bosch Platinums. I can't imagine the Bosch Platinums are any worse than an NGK copper plug. Sounds like the difference is in the gap, and the plats being more prone to damage when gapping them. I got the Bosch Platinum Plus series. Then, there's the Double Platinums, then the top of the line Fusions. Will know soon enough how the car runs with them installed. I'm not sure what's in there currently, but will have a look before doing all the plug replacements. I basically got Platinum plugs for the price of NGK coppers. I don't know much about Bosch's spark plug reputation, but I was always under the thought that their Plat plugs were very good ones.

Thanks Rod. I'll end up just doing both sides to be safe. Did you do your inner tie rods as well? The ones that connect to the power steering thingy.

Is anyone using any Bosch Platinums in their current setups? All I see is references to NGK plugs, and to go copper because it's cheaper and just change em out more often. The price I paid for my Bosch Platinum six pack was $38. That was on par and even cheaper than some of the NGK copper plugs there. I'm sure someones going to post here saying just use NGKs, but I'm trying to find anyone who is actually using Bosch ones. Forgetting the price, wouldn't a platinum plug be better than a copper one? The FR7DPX plugs are the Platinum version of the FR7DCX ones. They cross reference with these NGK plugs... BCPR6ES -11 BCPR6E-11 BCP6ES -11 BCP6E-11 BKR6E-N-11 BKR6ES -11 BKR6E-11 BK6E-11

I bought a six pack of Bosch Platinums today from Super Cheap. Cost me about $38. They are the FR7DPX ones. Has anyone used these before? They are pre-gapped at 1.1, but keep reading on here folks going for a 0.8 gap. Have read things in this huge thread and will continue to do so. But so far seeing way more references to NGK coppers vs anything Bosch.

I'd concentrate on the last 10 pages of that thread. Castrol Edge isn't mentioned really, so I would not have that as an option for a GTR. It all comes down to what weight you want to run. Then go with a full synthetic, not a faux synthetic like Castrol Edge. Options would be Motul 300V Chrono (this is 10w40), Royal Purple, Gulf Western Sougi S 6000, as well as what FUCHS and Redline offer. You're running some serious PSI and HP in that car, so don't skimp on the oil.

Usual, would love to see more of your info sheets. Do you have any for the 33? GTST, GTR it's all good

You do what!?? Not a single product available at any auto store recommends you use fuel additives every time you fill up. For instance the fuel system cleaners like Lucas and Inter Ject and the others state using it every 5000kms. And you use it every tank? Something is way off here, or they maybe contain an octane boost and thus that explains the extra performance you're getting. Why do you describe this product as some pyramid rubbish? I'm confused. Are you pushing this product, or have been using it and now have your doubts After looking at that website I wouldn't clean my concrete driveway with that product. Clearly this is some oem rubbish probably made in China that's been relabled a hundred times over as all different kinds of things. There's very very few products that are too good to not be sold in stores, and this aint one of them.

Am hoping someone here has one of these plastic bolt/nut coverings which is found on the inside of the passenger seat supports.

Ok, will call them up and see what they have. What's throwing me a little is I've been given two different part numbers for my car from various places. Can you recall the part number of the one you got recently? And did you do both sides or just the one that needed replacing?

I have a Drift filter I just put in that has a nut on the end as well. Used Ryco before it, but wanted to try something different and more upmarket (I hope at least), with some new oil I was trying. Interesting about the oil thing. So if my oil is good, then the type, make and build quality of the filter doesn't matter? I always thought the two went hand in hand. A better filter help kept the oil cleaner. It woudn't just be metal shavings in there, it should be pieces of sludge or other residue as well.

I'd love nothing more than to have a boot pack of Dynamat, and do my doors and boot. But the price of it is steep and out of my budget at present. So what else is out there that can do the job in place of Dynamat? I saw some foam deadening stuff at Repco for a big roll for $80, but after looking at it, it seemed overpriced and average at best. Went to Bunnings and had a good look there. Apart from the rolls of lead lol, there was something I think called Polyflash (?). It looked like aluminium coated with some rubber/plasticy type stuff on both sides. But it didn't look suitable either. The closest I found at Bunnings was some wood flooring underlay. Which was just some light foam or bubble wrap, in between very thin foil or other materials. As hard as I looked in Bunnings, I couldn't find anything that made me feel confident it would do the job well. So onto the trusty SAU to ask what others know. What's good, what's cheap, and what have others used.

I've just found out my passenger side wheel has alot of movement in it. Obviously I'm pissed, as the wheel alignment guys never caught this or told me about it. It's quite noticeable, and I'm sure not safe. So it's time to get it fixed. The drivers side one I'm told has no play, but the rubber ball joint bushing thing looks pretty knackered, so I figured maybe I should just get them both replaced, since I have to get an alignment done anyway. Now this is the confusing part. The places I have contacted for part #s and pricing, have given me differing #s. Now these OEM parts are TE926-12 and TE926-14. Not sure which one I'm supposed to order. But as I understand it, the 14 has a longer thread, so that sounds like the one I should get right? TE926-14 or do I order a ball joint instead? Do people replace the ball joint and use their original tie rod end, or just get a whole new tie rod end with new ball joint included?

I installed a JVC KDR606 head unit into my Skyline that I had saved from my previous vehicle. I'm still learning things about audio, but it seems to have near similar specs to the Alpine CDE-102E unit. It only has one set of preouts however, but I havn't gotten to the part of looking at amps or subs just yet. I think it cost me $250. I remember reading on here about someone trashing JVC products and saying they were total crap. I hope mine isn't a crap one. I sounds good, works great with usb and seems to put out some nice power for the speaks I do have in the car. Anyone else used this unit?

Makes one wonder why the Australian motoring authorities make it so difficult to import and RWC cars. I mean it's not like these are beasts of the Veyron capacity. There are plenty of V8s from Ford and Holden that smash most of our Skylines in terms of horsepower and other factors. A car is a car, but the very word import seems to make these bogans think it's a hodgepodge built of lacking in safety areas. Seems like just a money grab for them, and also to make it as difficult as possible to try and stop the flood of imports. I've heard New Zealand does it well and from memory years ago when I visited there, I remember seeing an incredible amount of imports driving around.

Nice find on the Sougi in a store. The $60 price I was mentioning before was from a distributor, not a retailer. Obviously the store you purchased it from has put a markup on it. So next time you purchase some, save the $20 and find a distributor instead. As far as a flush goes, after reading the last several pages, I'd say no don't do it. You know what oil was in there before, and 8100 is still some decent stuff. One tip I learned was to start the car in the morning, let it run until the temp sensor just begins to move, then shut off the engine. Then do the drain. The oil should be thinner and will hopefully drain more of it out of the block. I was all set to do a flush myself and had bought some cheap mineral oil to do it. But then reading things on here, it's possible you could actually make things worse.

A mate who has it in his car mentioned it actually made a different noise wise in his. Horses for courses I guess. I'm missing one, and want to locate one. If it does nothing for the noise and rattle, then that's ok. It will still look better, and I'll be happy all the same. The noises I'm hearing are buzzes, hollow sounds from the road etc. I don't have a sub yet, just 2x back speakers in that area. Also since putting in my new fuel pump I'm more concious of noises and sounds now from the back end. As I mentioned, if it does nothing for the noises, that's ok. I can still be happy for the looks department and knowing my car is missing one less item than when I bought it.

I found a picture of the lining here: Still looking for one of these with all the original clips if possible as well.

It's not in stores up here, and I don't think it's in stores anywhere. But it's a proper product labeled and packaged as though you would buy it somewhere at retail. For whatever reason I guess GW havn't spent much effort in getting into the Autobarns, Super Cheaps and Repcos. As to how you get it, there will be a GW distributor in your area, greater area or city. This distributor would be providing alot of the mechanic shops with 20 gallon drums of various oils, transmission fluids etc. These same distributors have the 5L bottles of Sougi at their businesses/warehouses/depots etc. For me it was as simple as calling to check they had them in stock, going there and purchasing it. For your area, I would first ask Birds on here if he has a contact. Or call GW on 1800 248 919 and ask for the closest distributor near you. When you realize how good this oil is, and that the only other comparison is the Motul 300V Chrono and Royal Purple, for the price it can't be beat.

Hmm ok. Took my car to a local shop today. They jacked up the front end and OMG, the amount of play in my left wheel was scary and looked quite dangerous. The movement seemed to be all in the outer tie rod itself and not the inner. So maybe the nylon sockets in mine are ok... or they are on their way out as well. I don't know how to check that. The most the guys have done in the shop is move the wheel. You can see how much it moves, and from the inside you can see the ball socket outer tie rod thingy moving around as well. Not sure what to do next. The other side of the car I've been told is perfectly fine. But I'm feeling like maybe I should just buy 2 of them, and get them both done.

The last oil I used was Penrite HPR10. It did it's thing and came out pretty clean in the end. But for me it didn't feel right in the car. For one the oil pressure was very noticeably higher than the oil before that (some unknown Havoline stuff the compliance guys put in). It took alot longer for the oil to thin out in the mornings, and the pressure to be happy at "4". Also notied a tapping noise in the engine when I started using this oil. Despite reading this whole thread I pretty much get amnesia when it comes to oil weights. I keep forgetting what is which. With my experience it felt to me the Penrite 10w50 was the wrong stuff to use, and I live on the Gold Coast as well. I wanted to move to the Motul 300V Chrono. But due to the price, instead opted for the Sougi S 6000 10w40. After putting it in, the car seem quieter, the pressure less on the high side when cold and overall, gave me a feeling I was using the right kind of oil for my car. It only cost $60 for 5L, so was only $10 more than the Penrite HPR10. Yet it is a true fully synthetic oil. I don't know if I'll do 10,000kms with this oil, but many folks here have. I am curious why you change the oil after 2000kms. At that rate, you could be putting in any of the cheap oils and still be getting good protection. But you're right, it's each to his own, and only you will know how your car works and operates using whatever oil. For me, I think the key was getting the correct weight. 10w50 was too high, 10w40 was more comfortable. Time will tell how it holds up and works as this is my first experience with Sougi. But for the price, you can't lose.

10w40 is a great weight of oil to use. But it doesn't come in the 8100 variant, only the 4100 or 300V. Now if price isn't an issue, you can't go wrong with the 300V Chrono. But for a non turbo engine, using 300V and replacing it after only 5000kms is overkill imho. Personally I'd try the Sougi S 6000. It's 10w40 and on par with the 300V. Also it comes in a 5L bottle instead of the 300Vs 4L + 2L ones. I got onto using Sougi after reading this thread and haven't looked back. If you don't want to read back through this thread, just know that there are only a few true synthetic oils. The Castrols, the Mobil 1s are not true synthetics, and also oddly none of them seem to come in the 10w40 spec. Nulon have a "Full Synthetic" but I think it's only on par with the Castrol and Mobil stuff. Motul 300V Chrono, Royal Purple and Sougi S 6000 are the true synthetics. You can also get Redline and Fuchs oils but I don't know much about them other than they are expensive and truly meant for racing. I paid $60 for my 5L of oil because I went to a distributor directly. For $60 at any auto store, that will only get you some Penrite semi synth, Nulon, Mobil, Castrol etc. You can't even get some Motul 4100 oil and that's really no better than the other semi synth or "fully synthetic in name only" oils. The 8100 oil is a good oil, but again it doesn't come in the 10w40 and for me that was the magic number for my car. I half suspect the 300V Chrono is actually the same formulated oil as the 8100 stuff, but just in a different weight. I find it odd the 8100 doesn't come in 10w40, makes you wonder doesn't it. Just re badge the same oil in a different weight, call it a fancy name and add 30-40% markup on it. In the end only you will know what's is best for your car, but seeing as you don't have a Turbo, the pricetag of $150 for some 300V every 5000kms seems like money not well spent. Try the Sougi, you won't regret it.