KrazyKong

I havn't purchased any Sougi yet, so the price I was given over the phone at this point is tentative. I plan to get this next week, so will pass on the contact details if it all works out smoothly. Don't want to send anyone on a wild goose chase just yet. Ok, so if the Nulon isn't a full synthetic, then I'll pass on that one. Seems alot of oil companies have "full synthetic" stuff that isn't even past Group III. I've only had my car long enough to do one oil change and I've been using the Penrite HPR10 10x50 as well. I don't have any leaks nor does the engine burn oil, but I'm not a fan of this oil. It's too thick on startup and too me, it's not the right oil to be using, so I will not be using that again. Lately I'm starting to hear the lifters or some sort of tapping noise at the top of my engine, so it's time to get it out and put something else in. As far as filters go, is the Genuine Nissan one from Kudos Motorsports better than the Ryco sold at Super Cheap/Autobarn?

Ah ok, will google it. Thanks for the tip

Ok cool. That cat is a new one and cost me $330 fitted. It was simply installed wrong, but I didn't know that until now. It's 3" from the cat back (cat is 3" too), so was doing the dump + front 3" upgrade. Am trying to find another one Cartman, but first I'm going back to the moron who put this in. I paid $330 fitted for that hi flow cat, and looking at it, the way the sensor was mounted, it's a mess. I doubt the jerk will do anything, but come Tuesday I'll be heading straight to his shop. My dump and front pipe from what I can see is stock. And that's 2" or 2.5". The cat and everything back is 3". Am happy to hear your thoughts on this and it's reassuring. I just need to find the right shop that gives a damn, but being $330 already out of pocket and from what you see in the pictures, I'm not a happy camper. I was afraid the job was so botched, I'd have to fork out for another hi flow cat since this one's been frankenwelded in.

Oh the joys of being a trainee grease monkey lol. In all seriousness, I received my new dump + front pipe just the other day from GKTech (thank Greg ). Now it should all be bolt on, and it would be if not for the nincompoop muffler guy who installed my Hurricane Hi Flow cat. This was done in Nov last year. Now the idiot didn't retain the front flange, and instead just welded the front pipe to the cat. Great, so it doesn't seem like I can do anything myself, nor will the various muffler places I've called so far be willing to even give me a quote to fix this mess. The guys who know how to deal with the dump pipe end of things, are not welders and or don't have the heavy welding equipment, and the welders who do the plain jane muffer installs, don't have a clue about dealing with the dump pipe stuff. As you can see, the end of the front pipe is welded to the front of the cat. The back of the cat was welded on too, but it was welded to pipe that still had a flange. So what to do. If this was all bolt in, then it would simply take time, but I could probably do it all at home. At this point, it seems all I can do is maybe swap in the new dump pipe. Then goto a muffler place and have them install the front pipe, and if need be, weld it. So how does one go about attacking the dump pipe then. Do I need to remove the turbo, hoses and throttle body? Majorly pissed off right about this and not looking forward to being told I'm going to have to pay to correct this f**kup

Time for some more headbanging lol. I figured the Motul 8100 Xcess was the best bang for buck for me, but then discovered it does not come in 10w40, only 5w40. Was pretty sure that the 10w40 would be the best fit for my car after asking countless people and reading what I could in these forums. Based on my driving style and climate it seems the right fit on paper at least. To add to my confusion, I found a source for GW Sougi S 6000 10w40 on the Gold Coast for $60 + tax for 5L. What I can't find out is what group (III, IV or V) this oil is. This is from their website... Hmmm, going from the information in the very first post of this thread, Poly Ester base would make this a Group V oil, or at least a Group IV+ oil. Yet in their own description they compare this to being better and outperforming Group III oils. So does that then make this oil Group III+ or Group IV. I would love to use Motul 300V Chrono. However it's not in the budget so I am trying to find the next best thing. I can't find a 10w40 in Mobil 1 either, but Nulon have one. So I put it out to anyone here who has either found a 10w40 fully synthetic Group IV or V oil to post your thoughts. And especially if you have used the Sougi. Is it really as good as Motul?

Has anyone had any experience or use with this product? I was at a dyno place the other week and was given a free bottle to try. They were the people that informed me I was using the wrong fuel in my car, and to use BP 98. So popping in the bottle, and filling up a full tank, I made a couple of return trips to Brisbane and the difference in the response and power of the car was noticeable, what to speak of the better gas mileage. Could have been just down to the better fuel, but I am at this point certainly sold on this product. Don't know where to get it from, so will have to make a visit back to the dyno guy and see if they sell it. One 250ml bottle will last for 5000km.

Have been noticing members skyline pictures in their signatures. Where do they come from?

Thanks for those tips Luciano. The best one came from my neighbour today. All this time I had the fuel cap on! So the pressure was never able to be released from the tank, and thus could never get the locking ring and o-ring on snugly. Being a holiday today I can't get any rubber grease, but instead used some vaseline. Didn't get any in the tank and very little to minimal on the o-ring itself. But the plastic threads I put some and was able to lock the ring by hand pretty much all the way. So hopefully success. Will do the final taps with the hammer, put the hoses back on, pump some petrol back into the tank and we'll see if she holds together. I think in retrospect I did install this correctly the first time, but due to not having the fuel cap off, or some form of grease I never got the locking ring as tight as it should be.

Still hoping to hear back from anyone Living on the Gold Coast, winter temps on the odd occasion drop to 0c or below, but only in the dead of night. So it never gets cold that much in the day or mornings. Am thinking of purchasing Motul 8100 Xcess, but don't know whether to go for 5w40 or 10w40. Car is a R33 S2 Auto, has stock turbo, but will soon have an ARC FMIC, boost will be upped via the grounding solenoid trick, and have also installed a Walbro GSS294 fuel pump. Don't know what plugs I have in the car, and will be changed when I do the oil. Once all the bits and pieces are in place, I'll take it to a tuner. But since Repco's 20% off Motul oils sale ends in a few days, I want to get something now. If the 300V came in a 5L I would get that. So instead will try the 8100. I know this is a question asked over and over, but since the answers are always different, I have to ask again, and for my own personal situation.

Any tips on how to screw the locking ring back down? I can't even get one half turn of the ring by hand when trying to lock it down. That doesn't feel right to me. Will try and get some rubber grease and hope that will make things easier. And the other thing is I'm worried that since it's so hard to turn, I'm jumping threads. But when I take it off to check it appears fine. Getting the thing started and the thread to bite is driving me nuts. My first attempt resulted in fuel pissing out the top of the o-ring and locking ring. Am trying to do it again but all I'm doing is getting angry lol.

Crap it's getting dark now, so will have to deal with this tomorrow. That locking ring is driving me nuts and is so hard to turn. I can't even turn it one half revolution with my hand before needing the old screw driver and hammer. And I'm totally parnoid now I'm jumping threads. I'm hating this more and more. Will go and get some rubber grease tomorrow and hope that will 1) be the right stuff that won't eat the rubber seal, and 2) help to turn the tight ring so I can lock it down all the way. I don't recall it being this hard when I first did it. Maybe being wet it is harder to turn than being dry.

Alright, took the metal plate off, and immediately smelt petrol. A good start. This is what I saw: All the hoses looked ok, no holes or damage to them. The clamps I had on firmly, but not over tight. I believe the fuel is leaking here between the locking ring and the top of the white plastic part. It appears the fuel is then running down here to the parts below the car. So what have I done wrong. Have I overtightened the locking ring? not tightened it enough, or have I simply not lined up the seals in the correct way. Option B is where I had it installed after I put in the pump. But I've noticed this ridge at Option A, and am now wondering hmmm, maybe it should be only half into the tank instead of all the way in. Getting the lock ring off the second time was deadly. The first was quite simple. I don't think I had skipped any threads as it's too hard to turn and the thread too big that you would notice right away. I guess having the wet fuel in there was making it harder to turn. So hoping someone who has done this can tell me what and how to fit this properly. Thankfully the pump is all good as it was a working pull from another car.

I have a series 2 and have not made any progress in being able to get to the motor. I found 4x 10mm bolt screws and removed them. After that, I'm not sure what to do next. I seems this whole box (air con?) assembly needs to come out so that one can get to the motor. Have posted some pics. I'd love to fix that horrible clicking sound, but so far this is as far as I've been able to get.

Great exhaust. Have one in my car and love both the look and tone if it. No tinny sound or vibrations. This things solid.

Looked at the car this morning and could smell petrol. Fired it up and let it idle for a few minutes, then looked under the car and saw this... Help!?

I whole heartedly agree that the courts let the system and the people down. Just as lawyers can be the scum of the earth, they can also help innocent people who have been wrongfully charged and accused. Moral of the story is not all police are jerks, and not all lawyers are leeches either.

Being in QLD, is there an option to get smaller sized license plates without paying the $500 for a personalized one? I don't need any special number, rather a smaller sized plate. I hate that you have to bend the sides to get the front plate on, and secondly it covers the area where my FMIC will be installed. Suggestions?

The locking ring I can check again. A pinched hose, hmm how could I tell that if I don't see it at the tips of them? Anyway to test for that?

Over the weekend I installed a Walbro GSS294 fuel pump into my car. Before it had just the stock GTS-T pump in it. I've since done a trip up to Brisbane and back. Tonight however, I filled up the tank which I normally fill it up pretty high. But it started pissing out fuel underneath around the HICAS stuff and back axel. So waited awhile at the gas station, then drove home. Checked it again after getting home and saw a wet patch where it looked like fresh fuel had been. Now I normally fuel my tank quite high, but did I go too far, or did I do something wrong with the fuel pump installation. I've always had a hard time with this car for some reason. Most fuel nozzles just freak out and stop as soon as I start pumping. I guess the pipe going into the fuel tank is too narrow. So I often pull the nozzle out a bit and pump it in via sight. The fuel pump was a working pull from another car, and had already been mounted on the bracket. So it was basically just a straight swap. I checked in the boot and there were no leaks or smell around the metal plate that covers the access to the fuel tank & pump.

Ordered a dump pipe + front pipe with flex from GKTech today. Thanks Greg As to fitting it, hmmmm will have to goto someone to put it on I think.

Would be keen on any cruises on the Coast for sure. If this did go ahead today, I imagine a few would have stayed home to watch the F1 GP. It's on in an hour or two

Was reading a thread over on some Silvia forum (can't remember where at the moment), and Motul was getting trashed. So many posts from people stating they had tried Motul and ended up using Royal Purple. Since I've used neither I can't make a comparison. However I think price is certainly a factor. And as others have posted on these forums, Repco have a 20% discount on Motul oils until the 5th of April. So that means... 300V - 4L - $104 now $84 8100 - 5L - $75 now $60.80 4100 Power - 5L - $59 now $48 4100 Turbolight - 5L - $59 now $48 The kicker for 300V is it coming in 4L vs 5L. Seems like either a shrewd move on their part or I'm not sure, but to then have to buy 2L more for the car is stupid. The 5L 8100 seems the best deal to me. Compared with other oils, how would going with the 8100 (not sure if there are two different varieties of 8100. If so which one to use?) in 10w40w be in my car? A good choice? Would the 8100 be better than the Castrol Edge, Mobil 1, Penrite Sin, Nulon's "synthetic" ??

Ok so being the noob I am, I've been running 91 octane (Shell or Caltex) for the past 9 months in my car. Idles fine, no misfiring etc. Isn't a rocket, but still felt ok to me performance wise. After being told a few days ago I should be running BP Ultimate 98, I've since done over 500kms with this fuel. Car certainly likes it alot better , and my gas mileage has gotten way better. Havn't noticed any black soot either on my exhaust. But then again I've only done 500km so far with this fuel. Have I done any lasting damage to my car by running 91? I knew not to run that E10 rubbish, but figured the different octane levels were for performance only, and not the health and well being of the car.

This has been my plan from the get go . I don't have unlimited funds to keep going back to a tuner. So will install everything first, then do the tune. Picked up an excellent condition ARC return flow intercooler yesterday. It's ready to drop straight into the R33, so the only things needed to do will be to make screw holes, and possibly cut some of the front plastic bumper. Am very happy with this choice as it will eliminate cutting holes into the frame and should be neat & tidy. Also this cooler is one hell of a unit too Interested to know why going back to the stock airbox with additional duct would be better than a pod?? I only have one of those $50 drift pods from Autobarn, but surely even that gives better airflow than the airbox? Well I went to 999 Auto yesterday and the retards didn't even have the front pipe in stock. I did check before driving all the way up to Brisbane from the Gold Coast, and they said they had it. They wouldn't even budge on their ebay price either, and I had cash. So walked out the store and someone else will benefit from my purchase. Will checkout what Just Jap have. Will look at the boost part of things later. Had read but now don't remember too much about it, of the grounding the stock solenoid, so will look at that, or maybe just a simple t piece might suffice. I also picked up a set of GTR front and rear strut braces in great condition. Plus a Walbro GSS294 fuel pump that's been pulled from a R33. It's all installed on a bracket, so should be a straight swap. Been told I need to get an SAFC II or NEO?? to go in combination with the fuel pump.

I found this on ebay from 999automotive in Brisbane - Price is $245. Picture has the N*power logo on it. Is this a fair price for a stainless dump pipe? And is this one I've found a good one to get? 999automotive also sell an intercooler kit for the R33 for $345. I guess this is a KLS? kit. Not sure on quality or if it's half decent for the price. So PM-R33, dump pipe first. Then intercooler?