KrazyKong

suwidji did you go ahead and get the Bando kit from ebay for $380? I'm looking at this kit myself right now as my water pump is leaking like crazy.

Yeah I get stuff from Kudos quite often. Great guys. Boost that's a pretty decent price of $250, but not sure I can wait much longer. Car is leaking quite a bit now, so time to stop delaying and get it dealt with. DVS JEZ, I'm located on the Gold Coast, what part of the Central Coast are you?

Hmm $1500 sounds like alot then. I guess $900 isn't so bad, but it's still alot of money for me at the moment.

Ok that's a good tip at least for me to see if there's anything happening around the lights. Not sure how thick the rust is but it doesn't look like just some surface stuff.

My first oil change in my 33 I used Penrite HPR10. Not knowing about these forums, I had asked in Autobarn and that was what was recommended. Short story, but I did not like that oil. The oil pressure gauge stayed up high way longer before it would normalize to it's proper running setting. The car felt a tad sluggish and after awhile I could hear the lifters or something making noises in the engine. HPR10 is a 10w50 oil and on paper shuold be ok in an RB. My experience told it it wasn't. Once I dropped it and put in some Sougi S6000 the car never felt better. Still using the S6000 and I think have 3 bottles left now . Not all oil are the same, but different brands can't even get the same weights either. A 10w in Penrite felt like a 20-30w in another brand. Birds that new Syn-X 6000 looks interesting. Not so happy about it being 5w though. I think it should have been a 10w40 oil as it's still going to be competing with the Royal Purple, Motul 8100 X-max 10w40 and the Chrono 300V. It's not a bad replacement for Sougi S6000 but it's annoying that yet another oil comes in a 5w40 only with no 10w40 option.

My water pump has been leaking for awhile. At first a really slow leak, but now it seems to lose more water. I've been topping it up all the time, but I know it's time to get a new water pump installed. Even though my car hasn't done the km's I think it's also wise to get the 100,000km service done too and this will probably save me money in the long run. I got a quote for $900 to replace the water pump with a genuine JDM (?) unit and also replace the belts, tension pulley thing and whatever else that needs to be replaced for the 100k service. Is that a decent price or are there guys on here who do this service for less.

My boot has had a leak for a long time now, probably a couple of years, but I've kind of avoided dealing with it. Now though I'm worried I should have done something sooner as there is visible rust as seen in these pictures. It's clear I need to do something about it now and or take it someplace. The problem is I can't work out how the water leaks into the boot as the outside seals look ok to me. But I'm not an expert and actually feel like an idiot for putting this off for so long. I hope it doesn't come back to bite me here. The leak is on the right side of my boot and seems to be coming from two places. The first is from the boot and the second is around the right brake light. I'd like to ask advice on what to do. What products to get here. It seems I have to seal the leak, then treat, coat or seal in the rust. But if I need to take it to a proper place, I will. Just don't know what to do as it's why I've let this drag on for so long now.

Hmm the plot thickens. Where did you find that post dirtyRS4?

Ah good find on the link Owgasm. Sounds like they got the guy. I think for sure something happened before the guy started filming on his toaster, err I mean phone (youtube joke lol). Otherwise why would he just pull out his phone and start recording. He clearly knew or was hoping something was going to escalate. It's certainly plausible the skyline guy had words with the truck driver. But then the truck driver must have done something to make this happen. If the skyline guy is patient enough to sit there and wait for a car space, then that shows to me someone who isn't so quick to flip their switch and rage away. This to me clearly shows the kind of person the truck driver was. I don't think the put downs for the skyline driver are warranted. He may have been holding up traffic, but we live in a civilized world. Being run over by a truck is criminal and wrong. And if that was your skyline, no matter what had happened, you'd be devastated and feeling you'd be wronged too.

This happens to me too. I think my speedo reads a bit faster than I'm really going compared with my GPS, but still there's something else going on. One day I was driving past a known place where a speed camera van sets up, and was doing the speed limit. Some idiot in a hatchback behind me is virtually touching my car he's so close. I'm in the fast lane and traffic in the slow lane is doing 80km in a 100km zone. So I kept going until I could pull over to the left lane. But as soon as I was about to this guy speeds past me, then cuts in front of me. He was so close I'm convinced to this day he was trying to clip me. Then the f**kwit slams on his brakes while we're doing 100km. Luckily I was alert otherwise I would have smashed right into him. Plus it happened quite quickly too so further advice to always stay on your toes. Now I was infuriated and thought about chasing after this prick. Heck I wouldn't have known what to do even if I did chase him down, but I kept going on my way to work. There are some real assholes on the roads now days. Now I like to push the +10% on the speed limit, especially on the motorway in the 110km zones, but it seems alot of other drivers do the same. Still I've had more dickheads tailgate me while I've been a Skyline owner than any other car. Could be the locations, or it could be something else.

Ahh man, feel sorry for the guy. Though he was a bit slow to click in when the truck started bashing into the guard railing. If that were me, I'd be in the car and burning rubber to get out of the way, and or throwing haymakers through the truck drivers window. No 33 deserves a fate like that

Got my replacement AFM in the mail today. Plugged it in and the car wouldn't start. Thought oh sh*t, maybe it's not the AFM. But I knew it was so persevered with it. Ended up draining my battery and my booster pack. Finally got the car started with the replacement AFM disconnected. Then connected and it came to life with a huge burst of black smoke lol. Pretty sure the plugs at this point were shot as I had to drive the car last week with the AFM disconnected to a garage to try and solve the problem. Took the old plugs out and they were very black and sooty. Popped the newish ones in and voila the car started first time. Took it for a drive this evening and the car is happy . So a happy ending... for now! lol

Don't mean to necro an old thread, but figured it was better than making a new post. I've had my Bosch Plats out of the car for awhile as I was testing to see if I had a spark or coil pack issue. Issue was car not able to go full power, and doing this hiccuping, spluttering thing. So I gapped my old plugs down to about 0.9 and the car felt better than ever. Last week my AFM died on me and I had to drive it with the AFM disconnected. The plugs fouled of course. I got my replacement AFM today, and at the same time, cleaned and gapped my Bosch Plats down to 0.8. Took it for a drive tonight and my goodness does this car deliver the power now. We'll see how it lasts, but right now the car is humming along nicely.

My car does something after a few days when I don't drive it too lol. The battery goes flat

Hi all. Am after a pink label R22 S2 AFM. A 22680-31U00 or I believe a 22680-31U05 is the model # of the AFM unit. I'd like to see pictures if possible of the unit with the sticker/model of it showing. Am based on the Gold Coast. Thanks

I've seen another pink sicker AFM with a 22680-31U05 model number on it. As I understand it, I can use either in my R22 S2 right?

Yeah sounds like the same thing that happened to me. Only I never experienced any black smoke, stuttering, stalling etc. Came home from a drive, parked it, then 2 days later tried to start it and it wouldn't start. Finally got my hands on a pink label AFM to test, and sure enough my car started up first attempt. So now have to locate a pink label R33 S2 AFM at a respectible price. Been to the wreckers and the only unit I found was shot. It had already been opened once and badly glued back together. Time to make WTB AFM post I think.

It's a pink sticker AFM. I'm on the Gold Coast. As for checking all the cooler piping, I havn't as of yet check it all over thoroughly. But seeing as how I now have no AFM installed or pod etc., the intercooler and everything is all being bypassed.

Did some searching and found info on what to use to clean the AFM. I had some contact cleaner from Jaycar and sprayed the connectors and the AFM sensor thing in the direction air flows. Sadly it made no difference. The car would still immediately stop as soon as I connected the AFM. I saw the 4 screws attaching the connector to the AFM unit. I unscrewed these and tried to pull it out. I got it out, but then realized I'd made a big mistake. I broke the solder on all 3 pins inside. So after some more googling, I found a writeup on how to take the AFM unit apart. Finally I got it apart and re-soldered the 3 pins nicely. I then touched up all the other solder points in the hopes maybe I had a dry joint somewhere. Sadly again, the same result, the car would not start with AFM plugged in, or would die if I plugged the AFM while running (not sure if this is a good thing, or sure fire way to fry the AFM and ECU?). Then I thought maybe I had a corroded connector on the AFM loom. So took the connector apart and it was looking nearly brand new inside. I don't have another AFM I can chuck in this thing to see if that's the cause of things. Could it be that the AFM is fine and there's another problem that's making it seem the AFM is dead? Is there any info on measuring the voltages on the 3 wires in the AFM loom? I havn't been able to find anything yet, but then again maybe if I did I wouldn't know what is a correct reading or not, though I do have a proper multimeter. And lastly, can I drive this thing with no AFM connected? or will it do damage. I'm sure the fuel mileage will be shocking, but I don't have much choice at the moment or any other transport.

This was the first thing I did this morning. Unplugged the AFM and the car started up first try!! It seemed to run fine just idling, but as soon as I gave it some gas it would splutter and gurgle and the induction noise didn't sound so good. Obviously a sympton of having no AFM. I shut the car off, plugged the AFM back in and it did it's no start thing again. Sooooo then, does that mean my AFM is stuffed, or should I take it all out and get some contact cleaner spray or WD40/RP7 and spray the connector, and the sensor itself?

I tried starting my car this afternoon, and it fired up, then immediately shut off. Thinking oh that's weird, I tried again... same result. Ended up draining the battery, then tried jumper leads. Same result. Cranks and fires up, then dies immediately. I can hear the fuel pump priming when I turn the ignition, so I'm pretty sure the fuel pump is working. But it's acting like there's no fuel, or it's being cut somehow. The car has been running fine lately and I've never had an issue like this when it won't start. I'm on the Gold Coast right now and we've had quite a bit of rain lately. Thurs/Fri I had two return trips up to Brisbane and back in steady rain. Is it possible I have water somewhere where it shouldn't be? If so, where should I start looking first. I've checked the fuses inside the cabin, and eyeballed the ones in the engine bay and boot. I also have my coil cover off at the moment, so hope that hasn't been a contributing factor in all of this. I have a Nissan Consult cable and hooked it up. I only have the free/lite version of Consultz, but it said there were no error codes. Not sure if I'm getting a proper reading though as I can't start the car obviously. I'm totally stumped right now. It fires up each time, then dies straight away. Help.

Hey guys, havn't had a chance to read all the replies from this afternoon or post the pics. I'll answer all the key points and get these pics posted hopefully tomorrow, otherwise for sure Friday. A big thanks too to everyone. I means alot to me.

They varied from $400 up to $875. The one I ended up going with was $600 including a full buff of the rest of the car to help make it match the repaired section. Actually it was $500 plus $100 for a full buff. Add another $60 to have a small dent rolled (this is the cause of all the dramas), and the total came out to $660. The day I went to drop off the car the first time, I was told the dent roller/fixer guy was away down south and wouldn't have time. So I then said ok, don't worry about it. I can live with that small dent and maybe another time I can get it rolled. But, and this is important, the guy decided anyway to try and fix it with putty without my consent or knowledge -- hence the start of all this drama. He clearly didn't wait or give it enough time to set before painting. It bubbled under the paint and clear coat was very noticeable. The colour was off, heck it looked like a water stain on a piece of paper, it was off colour and looked terrible. I didn't take a picture of this bubble at this point though. Now I wish I had. Here are the before pictures. You can see the dmg to the back right corner. I so wished it was only confined to the bumper, but you can see the part on the body that got pushed in. This should have been a simple job. Fix the bumper, fix the body, then paint, blend, clear and voila. But as you now all know it's turned into a nightmare. UPDATE: So after reading the nice comments of support and what I should do about this, I went down to see CC today. I got a receipt which is a good thing, but it's handwritten. Whether he keeps his copy is another issue for the taxman. I then mentioned I had a couple of questions while telling him I was appreciative of his time as I knew he was busy during Christmas. Figured I'd follow Spunky Munky's tip on that point . I then showed him the places in the repair area that I wasn't happy about. I mentioned I was pretty much gutted about the whole thing and found it difficult to address these as I didn't want to be known as a complainer or problem customer. After I asked if he'd painted all the way to the door, he said no, he's been in the business too long to be doing things like that. So I asked why the colours didn't match. His answer, maybe it was the clear that was making it not match. He then offers up this tidbit, that he had painted my car 4 times over. 4 times. I had suspected as much and figured that was part of the reason why it was looking so shit. So each time he's touched the car, he's had to redo it a second time. I then asked if he'd taped off to the ridge instead of painting to the edge and blending etc., as I was seeing this really bad edge. He said no, but that the clear probably dripped down there. I don't believe he's being honest with me on that point, but moving on. He then says he can just buff it all out, as though buffing is the magic be all and end all of fixing things. No matter that I counted over 20 specs of dust, grit and crap in the paint, apparently buffing is going to fix it all. It ended up with him telling me to bring it back in January and he'd buff it all out. Hopefully this will correct a few issues, with another one of them being where you can see the drips of clear in various places too. But I'm not buying this is all down to the clear being iffy, and not smooth. As the silver metallic paint looks like orange peels in places. That's over paint issues. The specs and grit in the paint is in the paint, so buff it ain't going to get it out. I'll post some pics of the car I took today later this evening as I have to head out now. Still on a major downer about this all

Pretty much all mechanics and workshop places I've been too apart from the name brand stores like TyrePower are asking for cash on the Coast. I already got screwed over on my muffler disaster 3 times over and they were all cash jobs so I know the drill by now, but still I felt this guy was trustworthy. For sure this guy is not paying tax on the job he did. But he knows I need a receipt as I was using my car for work purposes the day I damaged it. Thus I will be claiming a portion of that back when I do my taxes next year. But good call. I'll play it cool and get a receipt from him first, then see how it goes. Just had a chat with my neighbour who reckons I should just leave the car as is and not let CC touch it. Chances are he will f it up even more, and by then the only way to undo it all is to pretty much get the car stripped and repainted. And that is big dollars. Forget about the $600 I paid for this job, it's now turning into a $6000 fix it exercise. Heck I don't even know what a full repaint job would cost, but $6000 is prob on the super cheap end with my luck. Which means my only option is sell it as I can't look at it right now and feel anything other than disgust and guilt. I feel guilty for not going to see more places and getting quotes. I got 5 total in the beginning and had my fingers crossed I'd picked the right guy. Seeing the car more today, there's patches where it looks like orange peel, even more grit and specs in the paint. The bumper doesn't really line up properly. I tried taking some pictures but you just can't see how bad it is without seeing it in person. And depending on what light you are in, it either looks so so, or terrible. If I don't end up getting a receipt, I will sign an affidavit if need be. My family have picked me up and dropped me off there to pickup the car, so they will do the same as well. I don't think it's going to be too hard for me to show he did the job for me even without a receipt as I have witnesses, a handwritten quote on his business card, and bank account details to show I withdrew the correct amount of money. Anyway, off to see this guy now. Wish me luck.

Hanaldo, I'll take some pictures of the job today for you. I have pictures of the original damage as well, but didn't think to take pictures after the first repair job. I hope that doesn't come back to bite me in anyway. Spunky Munky, thanks for your advice. I have been telling myself over and over before reading your comments not to get angry or make threats. I just hope it stays that way, as if he does tell me to F off, emotions are going to be overflowing at that point. Now you mention Christmas time and me being in a position where I can offer to wait a few weeks before it's fixed. The problem here is I have already been in that frame of mind from the get go. When I would take it in, I would insist they keep it an extra day, to try and give him the space so that he could do a nicer job at the end of the day. But what I suspect is happening is, regardless of if I wait a week, a month etc., when I take it in, even if I then leave it with him for X amount of time, he doesn't get to it until the day before. Then he encounters problems which are solely his own doing, and then gets the shits because he's run out of time. Any honest person would ring the client and say hey, we've having a few problems here, we need your car another day etc. Not this guy. Both times I've been in, it looks like he's literally finished coating, and buffing the thing 15mins before I rock up. So me giving him more time I don't think is going to change anything. It seems clear this guy either has too much work, or isn't using his time properly. I called the Office of Fair Trading today and they didn't really give me any advice other than reading out what my entitlements are. It's hard to remember all those things, so I have them bookmarked and hope I can remember a few things. I'm thinking more now that I want a refund. And according the Office of Fair Trading I am entitled to one if he didn't provide the level of work he assure me he would. Key sticking point is he hasn't given me a receipt. And no receipt means all I can do is then make a complaint. I'm about to go into the shop in 15mins or so, so I'll post an update after that. But my trust in this guy has pretty much gone, so even if he agreed to fix it yet again, chances are it'll come back even worse. And key issue here, is that instead of another painter repainting a small section, I'm now looking at the entire side of the car that needs to be sanded back, repainted. Add to that the window seals keep getting paint on them as well, plus other small marks and damage. They couldn't even take out my brake lights without scratching one. I have a ton of things I could be complaining about here with their work, but I pushed them aside and told myself ok, I'll just have to accept those small things and see if I can fix the marks/scratches/paint on seals etc. Add it all up and the experience has been horrible. If I could wind the clock back, I'd love to. Hopefully in same way I can with the end result.