KrazyKong

Not sure on the needles part, but the electronics determine where they should be. So if they get moved manually, I'd imagine the electronic parts would then correct them to where they should be. That's only my guess however, so don't take that as being fact.

A few days back, I checked them all and replaced a clamp. I havn't driven much since then, so maybe that might have been a cause. But the fuel mileage is noticeably worse. I've only just replaced the plugs and O2 sensor, so it's not them. It's something directly related to the FMIC and or the grounding the boost actuator.

Mick, it's not that difficult to take the dash cluster out yourself. It sounds like whoever put int he white inserts didn't connect things properly. Also the inserts sometimes are sitting flush and that can cause problems as well. I'm experiencing both speedo and tacho issues with my car so have taken out my dash cluster quite a few times. It sounds to me like the connectors at the back of the cluster are not clicked in all the way. That would be where I'd start looking at first.

Figured I'd put together a poll to see what fuels people are using in their Skylines. Looking forward to seeing the results

I'm confused as to what's wrong with my car. I'm getting misfiring at low revs. But this is my best guess, it could in fact be something else. I have an Auto, so when I turn Overdrive OFF and have the Power Switch on, you can hardly notice it anymore. Here's what I did. Installed a FMIC, and did the boost grounding trick. Same plugs (Bosch Plats gapped at 1.1), same coilpacks, nothing else was changed. Before I did this the car ran perfectly and as good as it's ever been. Smooth, idling nicely and no blips or hiccups when putting your foot down. Now there's definitely something off. Oh and did I mentioned my fuel mileage has gone down the toilet. I'm losing 80-100kms per half a tank! And I use BP 98 Ultimate religiously. Do I need a SAFC? or to reset the ECU? I installed a Walbro GSS294 fuel pump in some months back, so I know it's not that. Someone mentioned maybe gapping my plus to 0.8 so I'll give that a shot, but what's got my confused is I see others with better coilpacks and pretty much the same setup as me that run fine at 1.1. It's odd, some days it doesn't misfire or hiccup. Other times it's doing it as soon as I accelerate, and I'm hammering it. Just pulling out of the driveway. The car still idles fine. What have I done wrong? And what on earth happened to my great fuel mileage.

Where can you buy them from? I got mine from Repco or something for a 6 pack @ $38 or something. They only had the 1.1 gapped ones.

Ah ok. I still have my old Autolite plugs, so might clean them up, gap them to 0.8 and see if that cures anything. If it does, then I'll have a go at gapping the Bosch Plats. I don't want to damage them if it turns out it's not the gap, so the Autolites will be testers hehe.

After finally getting my FMIC return flow installed, it took me awhile to narrow down this thing my car is now doing. If you've ever had or driven a front wheel drive car with maybe old or spongy front shocks, you'd know the feeling when you are trying to floor it and hit bumps. The car kind of shudders a little and you can feel the traction slipping. Now with my car I have a standard turbo running the ground boosting trick. What happens is when I put my foot down, there is for sure more power there, but there's also this feeling like the car is slipping or hiccuping. Could this be due to my Bosch Plats being gapped at 1.1? I don't know where to start to go about fixing my problem, but at first I thought I was just imaging it, but after driving around more it's there for sure. Oddly I notice it more than I have the Overdrive ON. When it's OFF and I have the Power/Snow switch set to Power it still does it, but I think the increase in revs is helping to hide the fact I've got a problem somewhere. So guys, where do I start to look at this problem?

75 any chance you to post a pic of your mesh close up?

Autofun or Autobarn?

After spending two weeks straitening all the fins on my radiator some months back, I had hoped my FMIC install would be a bit smoother. But alas I guess that's the drawback of buying a second hand FMIC. It got me thinking about not wanting to ever do it again and how to prevent it. And I thought about the fly screen mesh stuff. Obviously it will impede some airflow, but how much I wonder? Has anyone covered their FMIC at all? Mine's also been very lightly spray painted matte black so I'm sure I've lost a few % on the cooling efficency, but it's an ARC return flow unit and looks very well made.

I found this on the skylineowners forum. Now mine is flashing when I turn the car on, not when I'm putting into a test mode. But I wonder if this information is still relevant. Will print it out and have it with me next time I start the car.

Do I have a fault in my system? Sometimes the orange light in the Power/Snow switch flashes more times than others. My car has always flashed it about 3/4 each time I turn it on, but lately it's been flashing alot more. Not always though, but I'm noticing it lately. Nothing seems to be wrong in the car otherwise though

I'm sure someone will make one for you mate. We've all been enjoying the progress of your epic car . Hope to see more.

Not to confuse things, but even some legit speedos have the misalignment problem. And with all the other problems with stuck speedos and spastic tachos, it's possible the dash clusters were just poorly made. I've got all three problems

A huge shoutout and thanks to Fhrx Studios for sending me a roller. Thanks guys, will post some pics when all is done.

With some spacers/risers bolts it would be possible to fit it I think. Plus shaving off the top of the throttle body where that small hose connects, it looks possible, but it's alot of work and thus was wondering if anyone had done it. I have a rear GTR brace as well which fit just fine, so wanted to keep both matching. Crap, money down the drain unless I go all out and modify things. Using spacer/riser thingies might not be a good idea too since that could make things weaker for the suspension as well.

I bought a GTR front strut brace some months back. Went to mount it today and found it's not going to fit. The top of the throttle body is too high and makes contact with the brace. Am wondering if anyone here has had success in installing one of these?

Yes it's not good oil for the RB25. It felt too thick when cold, and took ages to get up to temperature. Car felt sluggish as well. Also noticed a very pronounced tappet noise when using this oil. I ditched HPR10 and went to Sougi S 6000. Since it's going out of production soon, either grab some now, M 5000 or if money isn't a problem go with Motul or Royal Purple. The weight is important though. HPR10 is 10w50, but even the 10 part doesn't feel right with that oil. 10w40 is a good oil weight for the RB25 so try and go with that weight of oil in one of the above mentioned brands.

Birds, what's the current update with Sougi? I still havn't bought anymore of the stuff but know I should before it runs out.

Gfunkk that was my understanding (granted it was word of mouth), that BP Ultimate was indeed the best fuel to use. Also that they were the only company who guaranteed you were actually getting 98 octane petrol. Whose to say what I was told was correct. Could be a load of bull. Thank goodness for these forums though as its always good to hear other peoples thoughts on this. Don't all companies though have their "special" additives they advertise for their fuels?

Hmmm, almost makes me want to head to the wreckers and find one of these option kits and get the actuator from it lol

Ah Troy you're a legend. I never thought of going to an art supply store. Will head there and locate me a roller tomorrow

Also all depends on what service stations are next to your daily routes or home. I have to drive about 6kms round trip to get to my nearest BP. There's a shell that's a lot closer but don't like going to that station much. The good thing is it's always busy so the turnover of petrol is high. The bad being is so poorly laid out, you can easily sit there for 15mins before even getting out of the car to start pumping. If the prices were the same I'd stick with BP all the way, but seeing as how some Caltex and Shells have 98 10-12c cheaper, I got my wondering. In QLD, who refines our petrol anyway? If it's BP, then wouldn't Shell/Caltex have the exact same petrol batches in their pumps too?

My S2 never did this either with the auto locking of the doors. Would be hard since only the passenger side has an actuator in it. Thus the drivers side wouldn't be able to lock. At least that's how it is in my car. Did the S2s ever come with an actuator in the drivers side door too? or was that an option with the alarm kit or something.