nicr4wks

Thanks Guys! There's lots of posts about SP being the bees knees but these are the first 2 audio clip's I've actually seen. That's enough to convince me to fork out the $$ over cheaper brands. I'm sick of shouting at my passengers, time for the HKS to go 😂 @Dose Pipe Sutututu what's your setup, looks like an oval rear. Any mid muffler or resonator?

That looks pure sex. Any vids of the noise? I'm guessing with dual muffler no resonator you don't have any drone to worry about.

The looms are 👌real good looking work! Do you know which part number timing belt you're running? I couldn't for the life of me get mine fitting without using 2 tensioners.

Pulsar G30-770 in an R33, 10mm spacer. IWG bracket needs to be modified as the one supplied won't clear the strut tower.

Sorry for the slow reply @jmknights93 I don't seem to have received a reply notification for this thread. Can I ask where you're looking? In FAST these small parts didn't even show on the diagrams. PM sent.

My list of OEM part numbers + help finding small clips. Hi All, Looking for a little help identifying where I can find replacement parts / names of these parts to search ebay / part numbers for a couple of small clips around the engine bay of an R33 GTST. I've been able to pull most things I need out of FAST but these ones are eluding me! Cable ties that attach the main engine loom to the threaded studs on the firewall Cable ties that attach the loom to holes in the body Rubber/plastic grommets that cover these holes. Cheers! If anyone else goes down this venture, this list may help. Parts are for an 02/97 R33 GTST looked up in FAST, prices are from Amayama. car parts 2017.xlsx

Registering interest. I would think black would be fine, a trip to the powder coaters can sort out any customization.

Just a bit of closure for if anyone searches this in the future. An R33 sump will not fit the NEO block, even though the block was drilled to accept the 2wd 33 sump there is no way it will fit without some serious modification to the pickup, or to the sump (cutting and welding type modification). Fitting a 33 pickup does not solve the problem either. I ended up getting a neo 2wd sump and bolting that on instead. To make it fit in an R33 the power steering lines need to be un bolted from the front cross member and held out of the way as the engine is lowered in, if you don't do this the fins on the neo sump will crush the lines. Once the engine is on the mounts you can clearly see how to re-route the powersteer lines around the fins.

Loosened up the belt last night, noise gone! Dobz method seems pretty solid, I also found the belt "feels" the tightest between the two gears, I guess this is due to it being the shortest run between two points.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/397602-how-to-replace-a-timing-belt-202526-pics/ As described in this guide, I can get roughly 1/4 turn out of the belt. It doesn't feel overly tight.

Should point out the idler and tensioner were replaced at the same time, along with the water pump. Prior to all this there was no noise from the old belt! Yes the CAS has spacers, it's also only temporarily removed for diagnosis of the noise.

Hi Guys, I've replaced a couple of timing belts before, but this is the first Gates one I've done. There's a noise coming from the cam gear area which I think is the noise of the belt teeth against the gears. I've heard the Gate's belts can be noisy but this seems pretty excessive and I'm thinking I might need to loosen it up a bit. Can anyone confirm? Cheers.

TBH I hadn't looked at the pickup yet to realise it's different! Went to work on it tonight and saw the problem.. Baffles have been cut out of the 33 sump and the original plates put back on the girdle, this will hopefully fix both problems. Waiting for the sump to dry 100% after cleaning out the shavings from cutting and will test fit everything again.

Heya guys, I'm converting a 25det neo from a Stagea to RWD so it can be used in a 33, using the sump from a S2 25det. The NEO has 2 baffle plates attached to the main girdle, the rear plate needs to be removed to fit the 33 sump as this has baffles attached in the sump where as the awd sump was just a flat surface. I imagine this will be OK as the 33 sump looks to have a very similar baffle layout to that of the removed plate, or is it a better idea to remove the sump baffles so the neo baffle plate can still be used? When removing the baffle plate the bolt holes on the main girdle are left empty, should the bolts go back in to maintain rigidity? Otherwise I'd probably leave them out to prevent the chances of one coming lose down the track. Cheers!

It has not had a professional dyno tune, however I have a wideband and knock detection, I've gone through the maps and tried changing fueling and timing with absolutely no change to the misfire.