nicr4wks

I'm having the exact same trouble on my 33 gtst at the same revs, 3inch exhaust is the only mod. Replaced sparks with new standard coppers which seemed to clean it up a bit but soon after the problem was back, most of the time it's worse when the car has warmed up. Been thinking about getting some of those hks iridium plugs that can withstand more heat but at 19 bucks each it would be nice to know before hand if it's gonna help. Maybe check the gaps on your current plugs to make sure they haven't blown out and are in ok condition? It's sort of a rapid "pop pop pop pop" coming from the exhaust like unburnt fuel is being dropped in to it, engine hesitates badly which causes the whole car to shake around a bit.

If you've cooked a fuse better off to find out why and replace it rather than run an un-fused +12v straight from the battery, good way to start a fire and cause other damage in your car.

Clock and radio are generally on the same fuse. http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf

$20+postage on the boost gauge?

List of mp games, my votes are on tf2 & grid. l4d is great fun but not too practical if we're going to have more than 4 players. cod:w@w css grid gta4 hl2:dm killing floor l4d tf2 track mania (free) ut3 ut2k4 dod:s red orchestra tfc

Depends on the size of the unit I guess. Mine are behind the door panel sitting on top of the stock speaker mount with some double sided tape, once you've set them you can forget about em so a hard to access spot won't matter too much. Only disadvantage putting them in the boot is you will require 2 lengths of wire to reach the speakers instead of just 1 length to reach the crossover.

Nice setup, I was planning to use a bracket on the drivers side as well but once the MDF was mounted it was strong enough to hold what I needed with the 3 mount points without flex. Shit load of room behind those carpeted side panels, plan to eventually have some boxes fabed up to fit in both corners and possibly keep some room in the middle Will look at moving the hicas controller and having some sort of stacked amp shelf next to the battery as well.

Just found this, Hi level to low level converter. Can use it to hook your head unit speaker wires up to the standard rca input of an amp. http://jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=AA0480

Do you get a light on the amp when it's on? check to see if theres a key anywhere e.g. green for OK red for protect mode. Since you're getting the initial "doof" when the amp turns on it's getting power, if the amp stays on it's possible the RCA leads from the head unit have been knocked out. It's also possible moving everything around you've changed the AMP from low to high crossover, check on the amp for such a switch it should be in the low position for subs.

Did you hit the reset button on the unit or pull the cables from the back of it? Might be worth a shot if all else fails.

Agree with the above, if you're not comfortable with auto electrics and hacking up your factory wiring seek help in the flesh. One of my mates managed to fry the ecu in his ford because he thought he knew how to install a stereo, expensive lesson.

Some amps will have a 'high level' input, this can be used to connect the normal speaker wires on the head unit to your amp. If your amp does not have these you're best to just replace the head unit, or get an amp that does. If you plug the speaker wires straight into the amps low-level inputs you will get an extremely distorted sound and risk ruining the amp. The stock head unit probably doesn't have the +12v turn on wire for the amp, alternatively you can hook the amp to the "ON" wire at the back of your head unit (the wire that receives power when the ignition is in the ON position). If you look around google/sau you should be able to find a legend that describes what color wires do what. You can use a multimeter or light tester to confirm.

Another +1 for fuses, the radio and clock are commonly connected to the same fuse.

Don't know if this might help some people, but it's how I've temp mounted the amps in the back of my R33 for the time being, I was originally planning to leave the audio how it was until I had enough cash to do everything properly but after a couple of weeks with distorting bass and other annoyances this is the budget install i chucked in made up of mostly parts I had laying around. The final result is a 1500w rms monoblock powering 2 subs, and a 4 channel 50 wrms orion amp powering the crappy kenwood rears that came in the car. The stock run from the alternator to the battery in the boot isn't enough to properly power a 1500w monoblock fully but provides enough power to shake your nose hairs a bit . Please see this page for installing your head unit http://www.groovesystems.net/ns2500/ Note that in this topic the author talks about cutting the stock wiring harness and putting in screw terminals, I recommend going to somewhere like autobarn/supercheap and getting a Nissan wiring harness. This way you can either get the right converter to plug directly into your head unit or at minimum get a Nissan wiring plug so you can hack that up instead of the vehicle wiring. To start with I got a piece of MDF from Stratco and cut it down to size to fit my boot and amps i wanted to mount. Next came the challenge of finding somewhere to screw the actual MDF. I've never worked in a boot this small and it was a royal pita, eventually I decided the existing battery bracket should provide enough support to hold the MDF, the following photo shows the mounts used, both of the bottom bolts required new holes to be drilled. You can see around the hole on the left a bit of black ink, I used this on the end of the bolts so i could mark out on the MDF where the holes had to be drilled. Got everything first time next pic shows the MDF mounted up. Note the dodge home made washers, it was late and the shops had shut so I couldn't get the proper washers, never let such a thing deter you from your goal Surprisingly even after several heavy spirited driving sessions these 3 mount points are still tight and doing a great job, I was expecting another mount on the right side of the MDF to be required but it seems I was wrong. Mount your amps to the piece of MDF using what ever wood screws you have, purposely pictures of the mounted amps have not been included. Here you can see where the RCA leads have been pushed from the boot into the cabin. The hardest part of this install was probably getting the back seat out, all the posts i read said to un-screw the bolts and rip hard pulling upwards until the clips popped out, I thought for sure i was going to break something I was pulling so hard. After several attempts I ran out of patience and just ripped up as hard as I could, sure enough the clips popped off. From here the RCA leads are routed underneath the carpet to the head unit, remember not to run the RCA's on the same side as the power wires, the left side appears to have the hicas wiring and not power wiring. I could be wrong about this as all of the stock wiring was tightly wrapped in black plastic which made it hard to see which wires were through which conduits but I have no engine whine/ground loops so I guess I've made the right choice The kick panel and door skirts shown in the next pic are held in by clips only, pull hard enough and they'll let go. From here the RCA leads we're routed under the carpet, under the heater/ac outlet to the head unit. Connecting the power for the amps should not be a problem as with the battery in the boot you have very nice terminating points, I used a distributor block on the positive side of the battery and hooked both AMP grounds directly to the negative side of the battery. Note as mentioned earlier in this post if you want to run a lot of power through your amps you will need to upgrade the wire between alternator and battery. And thats it! a late Saturday afternoon and a few beers later you've got a secure amp mounting point. I'm very interested to see what people have done for their own installs so I can do a tidier setup in the future, please post some pics if you have them

Keyboard + synth will get you you on to heaps of diff instruments! /me puts on flame suit and hides On a side note, I've been messing with logic pro with some interesting results.