nicr4wks

Reviving an old thread here, but the problem turned out to be a faulty fuel pump causing a lean out and I'm guessing the ECU was retarding to compensate, however there was never any errors logged in the ECU or any indication that the ECU was compensating for this, but those knock sensors must do something right? Now with a new pump fitted there is still a slight dip in the mid range timing still but bearly noticeable compared to how the car was behaving before.

This is how I thought it worked, and has worked in the past. However on my latest call I was told an assessment WILL be required, an assessor will not visit the repairer, and it's 100% my responsibility to be at the assessment center at the time given with my vehicle and hard copies of the repairer quotes. Upon questioning of this procedure I was told "a lot has changed in a big insurance company since your last claim".

illmatic, that's been my previous experience with Just Car also, however I haven't claimed in 3 years, and the rep I spoke with today basically said "we don't really do that anymore, this is our preferred repairer and they are the best" There still is a process to quote your own repairer, however it's much more long winded than it used to be and it just seems like they're trying to force you in to their own preferences.

I realise they will always take the cheapest option, however what I don't like is they straight off the bat book you in here and tell you when to rock up, without taking in to account your location. When questioned for an alternative, the rep pushed and pushed for their own center to be used, going as far as telling me he can't wait to have a crash just so he can use that repair shop, they are that good! Eventually I get to the bottom of what needs to be done, only to find out the process has been changed to introduce several hoops to jump through and several hours of my own time wasted to organise it, most people just won't bother (which is the idea I guess). As for the quality of the shops work, asking around work/friends/customers has turned up 3 of which only 1 had something good to say. You can also just search the shops name to get enough of an idea about the quality of their work. As far as I'm aware (in my circle of friends at least) car enthusiasts like to know what work is being carried out, by who, where, quality of work, summary of work to be completed. According to Just Car I don't get to speak directly with their preferred repairer and at the end, maybe I can get a copy of what work was carried out if I submit a request to Just Car. This has changed considerably since the process of yesteryear where you could drop the car off anywhere, talk directly to the repairer, ask questions, have other work done at the same time, then an assessor would go out and say yay or nay. Not to mention, if the person paying for your repairs is also the one making profit from those repairs, then there is always going to be an element of cost cutting.

Stumbled across this: www.insurerwatchdog.net Anyone with Just Car or a suncorp owned company should probably have a read and find out what the repair process is in detail, or risk ending up at their coffee lounge repair shop.

What the hell happened to Just Car? I was rear ended this morning and called up to make a claim and was given 2 options. 1. Book in a time to visit smart repair center where a 'client manager' will make me a coffee and ensure I'm comfortable while my car is dragged off to who knows where for quoting. 2. Visit at least 1 just car approved repairer, and one of my own for a quote, then book in a time and take the quote + my car to the assessment center for approval. (3 separate trips and 1/2 day off work.) What happened to the assessor coming out? I liked it when I could rock up to a repairer any time, chat to the guy quoting and the guy doing the work, they'd submit the quote then if need be an assessor would visit the repairer, approve it and a few days later your car is done. Will def be shopping around after this claim is through.

R33 S2 ABS Manual diff, preferably with half shafts, please drop me a PM if you have!

Thanks Daniel, Mongoose have gsm and fm pagers, the fm module has a separate pager where as the gsm obviously requires ongoing costs, not to mention you need your phone on you, my phone is on silent when sleeping and at work as I'm sure plenty of others do to which makes it a useless notification for a good portion of the day. Code Alarm seem to have some suitable models however I am not yet certain if their higher-end paging ones are adr...

Hey Guys, As the title suggests, I'm searching options for a paging car alarm & immobiliser that meets ADR/insurance specifications (black wire/3 point immob) There are a couple around that involve carrying a second pager unit (Mongoose for example) however I would like it all on the one fob (Viper style). Having trouble finding products that fit this category, but maybe that's the point If anyone knows some that that fits please list away. Cheers.

I've heard mixed things about this method, mainly that it has the possibility of starving other components when the pressure is required for VCT? It sure would be a tidier method, anyone with experience on this have some input?

M-sports front bar, this is what it looks like fitted, fiberglass, unpainted $80. PM enquiries.

I have the full workshop service manual translated by & purchased from jpnz that I'm going by, if the first orange marking is 0 then 3 to the right should be 15. This is how I'm reading them which is hopefully correct I've basically tried setting it 2 different ways, with consult reading dead on 15 the crank is jumping 5-15 constantly, each time the gun flashes the timing mark will be different, this is with the TPS disconnected and idle at 650-700rpm. The car is very sluggish like this. With the CAS fully advanced the crank reads spot on 15 and doesn't jump around, I can rev the car and it will return to dead on 15. Consult reads 5deg exactly. The car is very responsive and accelerates well, however there is very audible pinging above 4800rpm.

Car: 97 r33 gtst, 107xxxkm. Turbo back exhaust, fmic, ebc set to 10psi. Car has become sloppy, throttle response seems a bit slow, mid range with foot flat the car feels like it is holding back, at about 4800 rpm the car seems to wake up and you can feel much stronger acceleration. I've locked VCT both on and off via consult as the car picks up around the switch off rpm but it has made no difference to drivability so I do not believe this is the cause. At idle consult is reporting dead on 15 timing, the crank marks jump around between 5 and 15deg. I've tested timing by putting a lead between coilpack and the spark plug as I couldn't get a sensible reading from the wire loop at the back. If I adjust timing via consult by +5 the car drives very well, noticeable harder acceleration through the whole rev range and midrange no longer feels hesitant. So, I have disconnected the TPS, adjusted the CAS until the crank reads spot on 15, the CAS is in the fully advanced position to get this reading. Consult is now reporting 5deg timing, 10 lower than the crank. Driving the car runs very well, however above 4800rpm it pings quiet bad so I've put the CAS back to it's original position where the ecu reads 15, the crank jumps between 5-15, the car drives sloppy but does not ping. Can anyone chuck some ideas at me as to why the ecu and crank both read such different figures, and how I can get timing set correctly? Cheers!

Hi guys, I've been reading over various threads but finding conflicting info and no definitive answer on this one... What is clearance like for a 25/30 in an R33? My understanding is a 25 sump, 25 inlet manifold, 25 engine mounts will drop in and fit, the bonnet will *just* close and you have no hope of running a front strut brace. Other options are re-drilling engine mounts (does the drilling happen on the block mounting face?) to lower the engine, how low can it go before hitting swaybar, will this allow a strut brace to fit, and does this angle impact much on driveline lifetime/reliability? Or, fit a greddy style forward facing plenum with stock engine mounts, will this allow a strut brace to fit? Cheers lads!

Cheers for the tips all. How about where the rod connects to the piston, is there some sort of bearing here I should look at replacing?

Spot on. They are cheap so guess I'll just do the rings. The end bearings looked hardly used whereas the inner bearings had very obvious wear, I wasn't sure if this meant that perhaps some machine work is required for more even wear or maybe the girdle just wasn't torqued properly.

Hi Guys, I'm currently having my first go at building an engine, I'll be putting together a 25/30. Today I pulled the girdle and pistons, and looking at the bearings/rings I'd say they've been done previously due to the fact they look in so much better condition than the rest of the engine, but since this is my first rodeo I'd like to confirm! Judging by the way these components are worn, do you guys recommend I replace rings or any other components also? (I'm planning to do bearings). Cheers!

Hi Guys, In reference to an R33 S2 ABS diff, one shaft is longer and marked with a K, in this photo you can see this shaft goes in the right (drivers) side of the diff http://i64.photobuck...r33lsd054-1.jpg leaving the shorter shaft to go in the left (passenger) side, can anyone confirm this is the correct side for each shaft? Recently I took my diff out to shim, and the shafts were the opposite way (longer K shaft in the left passenger side), I put everything back together the same way without realising this was incorrect. One of the C clips had come loose in the diff when i removed the shaft and made a right mess, I've taken the whole thing apart, run it through the parts cleaner and re-ground a couple of mashed splines. Can anyone confirm where the C clip needs to sit? There's a groove on the smaller shaft for a clip to sit, and the longer shaft looks like it has a groove for a clip also but it is not as deep as the shorter shaft. I'd like to make sure the clips 100% go on the shafts and there is not supposed to be one in the diff also. Cheers for any advice.

SOLD SOLD

R33 KYB 8 step damper adjustable coilovers, ran them in my car for 3 days and discovered the front right has a bit of a squeak, I've been told that greasing or removing the helper springs would help with this. $450 PM me if you're interested.

2x 245/45/18 RE050 - $50 PM Enquiries.

Mine too. You need to use the public video link.

WTB engine stand!

Please PM all enquiries. Splitfire Coilpacks - $380 (rail IS NOT included) BNR34 and ECR33 Series 2 (1/95-5/98) RB25 lightened flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Flywheel needs machining, clutch almost ready for the bin - $150 RB30 head, came from a working engine, unknown km - $70 (head + both manifolds for $120) Intake manifold, injectors with loom, iac, everything still attached - $50 N/A exhaust manifold - $40 RB30 A/C Compressor - $40 Auto flywheel and converter - $50 Alternator - $40 Distributor - $50 Fan hub - $15

VL or R31 Gregory's workshop manual showing the engine (RB30) teardown/rebuild. Please PM.